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Author Topic: Castle Ice 50 failure  (Read 884 times)

Offline jjorgensen

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Castle Ice 50 failure
« on: June 20, 2012, 11:21:30 AM »
I have been having some issues with the plane I was planning on taking to sig. It has a turnigy 42/50 and I was using an Ice 50 ESC. After about a year with no issues, the plane was flying great but the rpm would increase as the flight went on. The reverse of what you would normally expect, increasing the lap speeds by almost a second by the end of the flight. I got it adjusted to where I could deal with that, and then on the last flight, at the top of an overhead 8 I heard a clack, clack, clack, and it came straight in. When I tried to download the data from the esc it would not connect, immediately heating up the data link cord. I was running 6S lipos. Is it possible I was asking too much of the ESC?
Jim Jorgensen

Offline Mark Scarborough

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Re: Castle Ice 50 failure
« Reply #1 on: June 20, 2012, 11:40:22 AM »
it is possible that your ESC was not at fault, it could have been the motor, Turnigy motors have some history of loosing magnets,, it is possible that magnets moving around caused current spikes which destroyed the ESC,, Hard to diagnose post impact, but something to consider,, I would be far more suspicious of the Turnigy motor than I would be of the Castle ESC,,, Just my two cents worth
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Offline Tim Wescott

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Re: Castle Ice 50 failure
« Reply #2 on: June 20, 2012, 11:53:41 AM »
A magnet coming loose and flopping around could conceivably fool the governor into thinking that the motor was going slower than it really was.

Ditto (maybe) if you weren't in governor mode, but had a loose magnet.  I'd have to be real a motor whiz to know for sure, but weaker magnets = higher speed and power draw, and less torque and efficiency.  (That's why rare earth magnets are so kewl -- way strong magnets = torque & efficiency, and you make up the speed in how you wind the motor).  And loose magnets mean the magnets will be out of place, and at least effectively week, possibly in a temperature-dependent way.

So, yea -- check the motor and let us know.
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The problem with electric is that once you get the smoke generator and sound system installed, the plane is too heavy.

Online Crist Rigotti

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Re: Castle Ice 50 failure
« Reply #3 on: June 20, 2012, 01:01:07 PM »
Jim,
A little more info would help.  What mode was the ESC in, what timer are you using, etc.  Details of your complete set up would be a big help, which includes all your programming in the ESC.
Crist
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Offline jjorgensen

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Re: Castle Ice 50 failure
« Reply #4 on: June 20, 2012, 07:09:26 PM »
Chris, unfortunately, I can't go back in and check the programming, but if I recall, it was in the control line governer mode, simple. I was using a Hubin FM 9 timer, 60% compensated throttle setting. The motor itself was running very quiet, queiter than my smaller 35 48 900. This one was a Turnigy 42 50 650. I just got done hooking up another esc to the same motor and it seems to run fine. No obvious loose magnets. I can now do a download with the new ESC. What can I look for in the data download that would indicate a motor problem?
Jim Jorgensen

Offline Tim Wescott

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Re: Castle Ice 50 failure
« Reply #5 on: June 20, 2012, 08:08:34 PM »
The Hubin compensated throttle setting is for non-governing ESCs: it increases the throttle as the flight goes on to compensate for battery sag.

The ESC governor setting is for non-compensated throttle settings (actually, it's for helicopters, but don't tell anyone here that).

Put the two together, and you're going to get a setup that speeds up as the flight progresses.  So -- turn the throttle compensation off, and use governor mode.

As to the motor, the clackity-clack you heard is not good.  Without the speed increase to confound things, you can just look for why a motor would clack and stop.  Loose anything would do it -- it could have been a loose magnet, or a loose prop, or anything.

I would probe the motor for loose magnets, myself.  I would go over the motor carefully for loose anything.  If there's an angle that you can look at the motor and see all the magnets inspect for one or more out of place.  If the motor passes that test, see if you can stick a toothpick or other similar tool into the motor and push each magnet around -- if it wiggles, then Mark's suspicions are well founded.  Try wiggling the magnet housing (the part that spins) -- it should be tight on the bell, and the bell should be tight on the shaft.  The shaft should rotate smoothly on the motor base, without excessive end play.

Clattering may have also been caused by one phase of the three coming loose.  So, get an ohm meter and check continuity between each pair of motor wires.  Don't just do this once -- do it while you're gently tugging on the wires, pushing on wires, bending the wires, and otherwise giving any intermittent open circuits a chance to pull apart.

If you don't find any out-of-place wigglies, I'd strongly suggest that before you fly the critter you run it at full speed on the ground and make sure that everything is tight.  If it is -- shrug, cross your fingers, and go fly.
AMA 64232

The problem with electric is that once you get the smoke generator and sound system installed, the plane is too heavy.


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