Are you sure those things are big enough?

Can I use the Jeti-box protocol, too?

      Thanks   

easy, write me mail, or send me private message ... however actually it looks like the only comercionally available ESC which works without compromises is Jeti spin (non pro version)

 
Hi, Mr.
www.indoorgeebee.com

There it is the web where you can find detail information about all timers..

Regards, Tatyana

ladies always know everything :- ))))))))))))

Igor I went to your site to look in to the timers you offer.
There is no buy button or any pricing information.
At the top of this thread none of the links work anymore.

I found the documentation on the timers you sell but the question is where do you get them? Can you point me in the right direction?
Thanks

Igor how can I get a more pronounced motor deceleration on the down line?

Igor here are my settings:

Target 165
High 200
Low 100
Sensitivity 85

In the loops is great the cycling of power is great. In the squares or the wing over the motor doesn't come off till just before I pull out in the corner way too late. Can I have it come off a little earlier?
Or maybe it is the low RPM limit set in the ESC that is overriding the timer impute?

You can listen to the motor run here thanks for your advice.

And you might want to revise the links provided in the first post as none of them are working.

Igor here are my settings:

Target 165
High 200
Low 100
Sensitivity 85

In the loops is great the cycling of power is great. In the squares or the wing over the motor doesn't come off till just before I pull out in the corner way too late.

I would say it is late also in loops.

I would say (from what I see on video) that the motor is not able to reach enough power. We use sensitivity somewhere from 50 to 70. Setsitivity 85 must do far stronger power boost than I see. That is why I think it does not have enough power. Means I think the timer asks for more and motor does not deliver it, and that is reason why it is at constant speed till end of figure. Lower sensitivity with stronger motor will make it better  -  it will brake earlier because lower sensitivity, but better reaction of motor will pull much more on the top of the figure. I hope I explained it enough, if not, ask deeper.

So I think there is something limiting its finctionality and to mind comes some (or combination) of following:

- too low motor KV - it simply cannot make RPM asked by timer
- not enough battery cells - the same problem like before
- too heavy prop - cannot spin up early and brake easy
- too large prop - the same like before
- too high or too low "target throttle" with combination to "MAX" and "MIN" - motor is limited by maximum or minimum throttle command - it slould be close to 150 so it can boost to 200 or brake down to 100. 165 is on upper edge, but still OK I think. Fix for this problem is to change "max RPM" and "MIN RPM" in ESC and apropriate shift of "target throttle" in timer.

My 5" pitch props need at least 11000 at full load with discharged battery (so it is not limited on end of flight). That is why we use 6 cell batteries with 700 RPM/V motor. And why I like small and light props.

Some people like large props with large heavier motors - that limits acceleration, so such combo will need smaller sensitivity to limit this effect. In exterme, some people limit acceleration at all by setting "MAX" in timer to value of "target throttle" and they use only brakig in wind.

 

I think 510 rpm/V is too little for 5" pitch prop. F2b Version of axi has 700 and it is good match for 5" pitch prop and 6 cells.

How important is the "Calibration"?
I tied the ESC settings which I understand fully now and had no change in the overall run. I put the ESC settings on graph paper and plotted the
Target Rpm and sensitivity and got some 7000-10500 rpm at 100% sensitivity and there is no way that is what i get in flight. Actually I don't get much change at all in wing over i climb the rpm go up a little and stayed like that all the way through no change on down line. The only thing that comes to mind is the lack of calibration I did not run yet.
Thanks for any advice?

Also check if you have sensor really well attached and paralel to FLIGHT PATH, people sometimes attach it paralel to fuselage which is cold be several degrees out of the circle (depending on model trim)

That yawing angle makes something like phase shift, means strongest pull is when sensor is vertical. If is it little out, it will pull in wingover strongest when model is at angle of that yawed sensor, in this case LATER than at level and brake strongest PAST the level (under the level altitude) - that is what we do not want.

If it is yawed in, it will pull earlier and brake strongest in altitude equal to that negative yaw angle.

But it does not change amout of action. That is defined by sensitivity and difference between max and min in ESC.

If I understand this correctly your sensor reads the centrifugal force acceleration and compares it to the calibration setting. If calibration is on a different lap time than what you actually fly it is all screwed up then. That would make sense why it went wrong for me. I will try a higher Kv motor too.
I went out and tested it yesterday and did the calibration and it was much better after that.
Thanks

Does anyone know of a new software/firmware available for the Igor Burger timers? And if it is possible to update the old one?
I heard something about a new timer with new software. I might be wrong.

New timer mentioned here in October 2016.  I didn't see another newer one.

Right, there never was any "update" for firmware. New timer has only new hardware, but the same fimware, so its function is the same. Hardware was changed because I had several requests to repare damaged cable between connector and sensor (cut, broken etc). New timer has all on one PCB and cable is easily removable, so in case of damage it is easy to replace. It is standard R/C elongation cable for servo, so you can even buy shorter or longer if necessary, or not to use any if ESC has cable long enough (for exaple on indoors).

May be I am "old chool" but I released it after 4 years development, when I was sure there is nothing to do anymore. I think I was adequate betatester, so I did not release any "beta" versions as it is usual in actual production of electronics for 1 year life time  ... so I did not have updates and it is also not updatable.

Jeti Spin Pro has some brake settings now. I remember in the past something was taken out of the Spin version when they made the transition to the Pro version. That change made the Pro version undesirable for our use. I think it had to do with brake settings, but I am not sure. Is this something new ("manual brake settings") in the Pro versio? If yes does it mean we can now use the Pro version?

Another question I have is if I have a max 32A on the bench which means less in the air is there a difference in using the 66A ESC vs the 33A ESC? If yes what is the difference and why?

Thanks

Yes, the problem is respond speed,especially with combination of the initial spin up.

PRO version has deleted not only Heli 3D mode, but all modes and replaced by detailed settings of many parameters, unfortunatelly Heli 3D settings are impossible to reach. Also quicker response is slower than old Heli 3D which did not have any low pass filters. It is bad thing with noisy transfer from transmitter pot to servo lead from receiver, but in case of C/L model it means that ESC can add power with delay, when timer already calls for braking. Result is that it is impossible to find satisfying sensitivity setting. May be if someone who did not try it yet, will not see that it is not OK, but once you reach well tuned active timer settings, difference is clear.

Reason are new features for 2.4 data telemetry, which replaced old functions not used by R/C guys, unfortunatelly we (CL) are not feeding R/C makers, so they do development fpr R/C, not for C/L.

My timer has stopped working in 2-4-2 break. I increased the sensitivity setting and nothing happens.
It still keeps the time and target rpm but the rest  kind of disappeared. I tried to  do a calibration flight but it still didn't change a thing.  Is there a good way to perform some kind of check to troubleshoot?

Yes, remove prop, set sensitivity to 200 and put it nose up and nose down, you should hear RPM change.

If processor works (can count time) and sensor not, I guess you have broken cable between processor and sensor (if it is old type with yellow connector and red sensor).

Try it and if nothing, write me to my mail, I am not so often here

igor-hexoft <at> netax.sk

Used accelerometer itself works from -40 to 100 degrees C, means more than you can stand for normal flight.

If you say you had FROST ON LINES (I will not fly in such conditions) then it means high condensation, so I will believe more in water spoiling something somewhere, I hope you have covered it inside the fuselage out of direct air stream (rain is also not good stuff in the timer). Spin ESCs are covered by some sealing stuff, so they are protected from wetness, but timer has connectors, so it is not. It must be shielded inde fuselage. 

Anyway, it will be good to test it in fridge to see if everything is OK, that accelerometer must work also in such conditions.