Author Topic: Battery Connectors- what's your favorite? (Read 12068 times)

Target · « **on:** May 18, 2015, 11:12:42 PM »

All-
I'm putting together my first e power control line plane. I have some electric experience with RC, none with CL though.
I know that Dean's are the standard, but they seem hard to pull apart sometimes to me.
I'm wondering if someone has recommendations for something that doesn't inspire swearing when changing a pack?
Maybe XT60's might be better and adequate?
In my early RC days, I was find of Anderson Power Pole connectors, but they take up a lot of space it seems.
Thoughts?
Thanks!

John Cralley · « **Reply #1 on:** May 19, 2015, 07:02:52 AM »

I have been using XT 60 connectors for several years and am slowly converting most of my ESCs from Deans to XT 60 connectors. In the meantime I have made some adaptors by soldering Deans male to XT 60 female and visa versa (covered with shrink tubing. I find that l can adjust the fit of the XT 60 for easier removal by pinching the male prongs (ouch) with needle nose pliers! Probably defeats some of the low resistance connection but I have not noticed (or tested for) any difference and they are much easier to connect/disconnect.

Target · « **Reply #2 on:** May 19, 2015, 09:52:18 AM »

Thanks for the real world experience, John, that is just what I am looking for.
I know about the idea of drilling holes in the deans connectors and using circlip pliers or a hinged tool to separate them, but that seems like a lot of effort when we are not needing a high amperage connection, right? That and having metal pins in proximity to a DC connection makes me a bit nervous.

I have some of the XT60's on order, and they should be delivered so as not to hold up my progress.

I really like the Sermos/Anderson Power Pole connectors for ease of separation, just wish they were not so long.

Regards,
Chris

Motorman · « **Reply #3 on:** May 19, 2015, 10:50:07 AM »

My wife can pull apart a Deans connector and she weights 110 lbs. Maybe try flattening out the spring a little?

MM

John Cralley · « **Reply #4 on:** May 19, 2015, 11:13:09 AM »

One mistake some users make is to solder the connectors separated from a connector of the opposite sex. If you are soldering a male connector you would do well to have it plugged into a female connector and visa versa. This keeps the pins/contacts aligned during the soldering operation and makes plugging in and disconnecting much easier. Deans connectors are easily caused to warp enough to make them difficult to connect/disconnect while soldering the wires to the connector. I plug in blank (no wires attached) opposite sex connectors (male for batteries and female for ESCs) and I shrink wrap the pins (so that shorts are prevented) when soldering connectors to batteries.

Howard Rush · « **Reply #5 on:** May 19, 2015, 11:56:00 AM »

Quote from: John Cralley on May 19, 2015, 11:13:09 AM

One mistake some users make is to solder the connectors separated from a connector of the opposite sex. If you are soldering a mail connector you would do well to have it plugged into a female connector and visa versa. This keeps the pins/contacts aligned during the soldering operation and makes plugging in and disconnecting much easier. Deans connectors are easily caused to warp enough to make them difficult to connect/disconnect while soldering the wires to the connector. I plug in blank (no wires attached) opposite sex connectors (male for batteries and female for ESCs) and I shrink wrap the pins (so that shorts are prevented) when soldering connectors to batteries.

I think that's a good idea.

Target · « **Reply #6 on:** May 19, 2015, 01:23:41 PM »

That's my SOP, keeping the plug mated to another...
I have soldered several dozen of the green 6-pin MPX connectors for wing wiring connectors of 2-4 servos per wing in sailplanes.
The only downside is that now you are allowing some of the heat to be sucked into the opposite connector before you get the first hot enough to flow solder.
But I think that until proven otherwise, this is the way to go.
Yet another reason to like Sermos/APP connectors.

I can chime in that I DO NOT like, and don't recommend, the EC3 connectors. They are also a bit difficult to separate, but they are fairly compact.

I'm ALMOST tempted to go to a 3mm to 4mm bullet connector set (polarized, of course). Certain styles are very smooth to make and break, and you are working on one wire at a time (which increases your power over the connection by 100%), and they are very compact.
I just don't like having the ground end of the battery and the positive end of the charge lead wires exposed.

Regards,
Chris (the over-thinker?)

Russell Bond · « **Reply #7 on:** May 19, 2015, 06:25:29 PM »

Chris,
You can buy the correct red covers from Hobby King.
The same ones that are fitted to batteries. They are 4mm.

Target · « **Reply #8 on:** May 19, 2015, 07:01:47 PM »

Quote from: Russell Bond on May 19, 2015, 06:25:29 PM

Chris,
You can buy the correct red covers from Hobby King.
The same ones that are fitted to batteries. They are 4mm.

I appreciate your suggestion, but its been my experience that most of the plastic tubular housings that go with the bullet style connectors lock together pretty hard, and then you end up with the same situation as the EC3 connectors.
Is your experience with them different than I describe? Maybe I am looking at the wrong connector?
The Hyperion receiver 2S Life packs come with that style and they seem to be not easy to disconnect.

Regards,
Chris

Curare · « **Reply #9 on:** May 19, 2015, 07:11:55 PM »

For low voltage, low amp stuff EC3'S are fine. If you're having problems with them I really wonder how.

For medium voltage, medium amp stuff, say up to 6S and 60 amps xt 60's are good. When soldering them, I plug a spare plug into the one I'm soldering to keep the pins aligned. I use bucket loads of heat, for a very short time.

For high voltage, or high amperage stuff, (8S and +60 amp) I use EC5 connectors.

I don't use Deans because they're crud. I've melted them in 50+amp situtations.

Russell Bond · « **Reply #10 on:** May 19, 2015, 07:21:30 PM »

No, my experience with these connectors is that they slide apart quite easily.
Both my planes have them and they work well.

Here is the part;
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9283__HXT_4mm_Gold_Connector_w_Protector_10pcs_set_.htm

Target · « **Reply #11 on:** May 19, 2015, 10:59:12 PM »

Thanks Russell, I will check out your link!

Regards,
Chris

Randy Powell · « **Reply #12 on:** May 20, 2015, 10:55:32 AM »

I do fine with Deans. I use a piece of copper tubing to go between the wire and the connector. Makes soldering them much easier and since doing this have had no issues. They seem to unplug easily.

David Hoover · « **Reply #13 on:** May 20, 2015, 11:56:34 AM »

Randy, I'm trying to visualize "a piece of copper tubing to go between the wire and the connector". Can you elucidate my fuzzification?

William DeMauro · « **Reply #14 on:** May 20, 2015, 12:08:23 PM »

Quote from: Randy Powell on May 20, 2015, 10:55:32 AM

I do fine with Deans. I use a piece of copper tubing to go between the wire and the connector. Makes soldering them much easier and since doing this have had no issues. They seem to unplug easily.

I too do fine with deans. You just need a hot soldering iron or gun like 60 watts plus(I use a weller 8200 100/140 watt) Tin both the wire and the deans then just melt the 2 together quickly. A few people have suggested the copper tubing trick to me and the reason that I will not do it is that it creates an additional point of possible failure and I feel we already have enough.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #15 on:** May 20, 2015, 03:25:26 PM »

David,

I cut a piece of 5/32" copper tubing about 3/8" or so long. Crimp one end then open it up so it fits on the flat metal tang on the Deans (obviously 2 per connector). the other end is round and the wire from the battery (or arming switch, ESC or whatever) slides right in. Then I solder it up and slide the heat shrink previously placed on the wire down, shrink it up and there you are. Since I started doing this, soldering on Deans became quite easy.

John Cralley · « **Reply #16 on:** May 20, 2015, 03:59:48 PM »

I too have used the copper tubing trick for Deans plugs and found it helps to get them soldered. The flat soldering terminals that Deans plugs use are a pain and the tube trick makes for secure solder joints. I got the idea when I came across some commercial "adapters" (not tubing) on HobbyKing and bought a dozen or so. I switched to the tubing after I used up the "adapters". Actually the copper tubing may work better than the manufactured "adapters"!

Randy Powell · « **Reply #17 on:** May 20, 2015, 04:27:46 PM »

John,

Wish I'd seen that before I started using them. The first couple until I figured out the tubing trick were a disaster.

William DeMauro · « **Reply #18 on:** May 20, 2015, 04:28:03 PM »

Here is a good video on how to properly solder Deans connectors. This is just one of many.

Curare · « **Reply #19 on:** May 20, 2015, 08:17:26 PM »

Ugh, I honestly don't understand that thinking.

"Oh it's ok, I just have to modify the part to make it work right"

In my opinion that makes the part CRUD.

With that said, my issue with Deans connectors hasn't been soldering, it's been two fold, one that they melt at high amps, (and usually melt to a short, which is a whole lot of fun) and that there isn't a good grip on the acutal plug, so you need to glue a heat-shrink sheath over the plug to get any purchase on the plugs to pull them apart.

EC and XT plugs buy their design have more grip, and so are easy to plug and unplug. XT 60's seem to be easy enough for most to solder together but EC connectors require a deft hand as any over soldering will stop them from going into the housing.

Peter Germann · « **Reply #20 on:** May 21, 2015, 04:48:19 AM »

As I have found connectors being damaged by sparks (5 S) rather quickly, I've installed 4 mm anti-spark connectors. No more burnt gold plating since...

http://www.jetimodel.com/en/katalog/Accessories/Connectors/

rgds, Peter Germann

Phil Krankowski · « **Reply #21 on:** May 21, 2015, 05:55:32 AM »

Quote from: Russell Bond on May 19, 2015, 07:21:30 PM

No, my experience with these connectors is that they slide apart quite easily.
Both my planes have them and they work well.

Here is the part;
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9283__HXT_4mm_Gold_Connector_w_Protector_10pcs_set_.htm

I'm using those on my starter lipo. Works pretty nicely.

Phil

Dwayne · « **Reply #22 on:** May 24, 2015, 04:37:47 PM »

Quote from: John Cralley on May 19, 2015, 11:13:09 AM

One mistake some users make is to solder the connectors separated from a connector of the opposite sex. If you are soldering a male connector you would do well to have it plugged into a female connector and visa versa. This keeps the pins/contacts aligned during the soldering operation and makes plugging in and disconnecting much easier. Deans connectors are easily caused to warp enough to make them difficult to connect/disconnect while soldering the wires to the connector. I plug in blank (no wires attached) opposite sex connectors (male for batteries and female for ESCs) and I shrink wrap the pins (so that shorts are prevented) when soldering connectors to batteries.

This X10, ask me how I know

Btw. I use Deans.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #23 on:** May 24, 2015, 07:53:04 PM »

Well, I bought Deans that are knurled on the side to grip isn't an issue and making a little solder connector just makes it easier. Use what you want. If it works for you....

William DeMauro · « **Reply #24 on:** May 25, 2015, 11:47:22 AM »

I saw these on an RC Site. They may be of interest to some here. http://www.rcstarplug.com/

FLOYD CARTER · « **Reply #25 on:** May 26, 2015, 12:31:14 PM »

I don't understand how a Deans connector would melt under high current conditions. That only indicates a poor connection there. The Deans conn has massive gold-plated blades, which, if terminated correctly, should handle 80A without heating due to internal resistance.

Target · « **Reply #26 on:** May 26, 2015, 12:55:05 PM »

I soldered on the deans connectors last night on the two (of four) batteries that I have ordered. Still waiting on those pesky Hyperion batteries, I may have to ask for a refund....
At any rate, I consider myself to be a good tech with a soldering iron, and had no problem. And yes, used a mating connector while soldering.

Thanks for all the replies.

I also wonder why any connector plastic would melt; that would have to be caused by high temp, or a short, or extremely high amperage, I would think??

Regards,
Chris

Curare · « **Reply #27 on:** May 27, 2015, 10:45:26 PM »

Chris, in relation to deans plugs melting, I've seen case 1 happen, and case 3.

Case 1, melted when soldering was from a guy using a fine tipped soldering iron on the plug. The plug had just enough heat to melt the solder onto the plug, but not enough to keep the tinned lead AND the plug connector fluid. Effectively when he went to join it all there was too much of a heat sink and the whole thing went cold. He tried to alleviate it buy leaving the iron on the plug till it was all hot enough to melt the solder.

Sadly, the housing melted before the solder did.

The lesson to be learnt here is don't use fine tips for soldering heavy guage leads. The bigger the better. My tip is a solid 3/8" copper rod, and holds enough heat to solder a connection in probably half a second. The housing doesn't even get warm.

Case 3, was over-amping. Back in my early electric days I decided to see how far I could push my EDF jet. On 5S, and running at what I think was around 120 amps, the connectors melted, and shorted together. The aircraft was a write off. So were the connectors, just in case you were wondering

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #28 on:** May 27, 2015, 10:55:29 PM »

Quote from: John Cralley on May 19, 2015, 11:13:09 AM

One mistake some users make is to solder the connectors separated from a connector of the opposite sex. If you are soldering a male connector you would do well to have it plugged into a female connector and visa versa. This keeps the pins/contacts aligned during the soldering operation and makes plugging in and disconnecting much easier. Deans connectors are easily caused to warp enough to make them difficult to connect/disconnect while soldering the wires to the connector. I plug in blank (no wires attached) opposite sex connectors (male for batteries and female for ESCs) and I shrink wrap the pins (so that shorts are prevented) when soldering connectors to batteries.

that ^^^^ is the trick,, if you do this they are as easy as any other connector to work with,,

FLOYD CARTER · « **Reply #29 on:** June 01, 2015, 01:34:03 PM »

I haven't tried using copper tubing for termination of the large Deans connectors. That's a good idea.

My technique is to wrap the wire onto the flat connector blade with a few turns of #27 tinned copper wire. That holds everything tight together for the soldering phase.

Floyd

Target · « **Reply #30 on:** July 25, 2015, 02:39:45 PM »

I think I have a new strategy....
I have 2 each thunder power 4s2700 prolite's, and now 2 each of the new Hyperion 4s2800hv cells
The Hyperion come with XT60's already soldered on as standard.
The Hyperion are rated at a higher c rating.
The Prolite's are supposed to be lightest available. Mine are 255g with a Dean's connector. The Hyperion are 260g with the stock XT60 connector.
Hyperion are 43 bucks at www.rcdude.com, and free shipping after 100 dollars.
Tp are 55 bucks at Atlanta hobbies, and the shipping is 12-15 bucks.
Easy math, if the performance is on par. To be determined....
R,
Chris

NED-088 · « **Reply #31 on:** September 05, 2015, 02:12:18 PM »

Like Peter Germann I'm using 4 mm bullet connectors.

I used Deans for the first season (2006) but replaced them by bullets by the next year. Never felt the urge to go back.

I make my own anti spark coupler:
A piece of 6 mm hex brass rod, drilled (by Erik Janssen on his lathe) with a 4 mm hole and then again with 5.5 mm from the other end, leaving about 3 mm length of the 4mm wide channel.
Now solder a female and male connector back to back and heat shrink the female part all over -also the edge!-.
This will give it an outside diameter of approximately 5.5 mm (!).
Solder one lead of a 4.7 or 5 Ω resistor to the outside of the hex piece, slide the prepared female connector into the large hole of the hex piece until set at the bottom. Make other resistor lead to size and solder at the joint between female and male plug.
Cover the whole thing in heat shrink so only the male part sticks out.
It goes between the battery and the ESC, leaving it on the ESC with the male part plugged in. I only take it off when changing ESC.
When connecting the battery, the male plug on the battery lead will make contact with the Hex brass part first, connecting Battery and ESC through the resistor, thereby limiting the current while initial charging of the capacitors from the ESC.
That will take only fractions of seconds.
When you push the battery connector all the way in, it will connect to the inner 4mm female part, shorting the resistor.
Now your connection will carry full operation current.

Author Topic: Battery Connectors- what's your favorite? (Read 12068 times)

Dwayne