I bought 2 E-flight power 25 motors. I flew one in my Viper and it was using 89% of 4s 3300 batteries. So I bought the 4S 4000. Of which seem to be heavy to me. Well I called Wil Hubin tonight and we talked E=I/r crap and he figured out my problem. The problem was that I have 2 1250 KV motors and I and suppose to have 850 KV motors (thats what I get for buying from my local hobby shop). Boy do I have a lot to learn. The planes are the same but the rigmarole is something else. I sure hope its as good as everyone is saying.

What Bob said.  You spent a lifetime learning how to make internal combustion engines sit up and beg; now you're trying to spin up on electrics in one season.  Clearly it can be done -- but think about all the little bits and pieces of wisdom you know about IC engines and consider that it'll take a bit of time to learn the equivalent electric lore.

With a nickname like Sparky ... how can you say you aren't suited to E-Stunt?
Sounds like this just would have been a costly boo-boo, save for friends like Mark!

hang tight!
        Dean

This is why for my first electric I am copying other's successful setups. I'll branch out after I really understand the system. Until then, I'll listen to the guys that are already successful with it.

It is exceptionally easy to change a motor's velocity constant (what we call kV in the modeling world).  All it takes is to wind the motor with more turns of thinner wire (for a lower kV) or fewer turns of thicker wire (for a higher kV).  The result is a motor that behaves almost exactly as before, but with some of the parameters scaled by the change in the number of turns.

This sort of thing is done all the time with industrial motors.  It's common to see a motor data sheet that has one set of graphs for power and efficiency, then this humongous chart listing a dozen different parameters for a dozen different winding arrangements.

So its not at all surprising that a model motor manufacturer should offer the same basic motor with different winding arrangements.