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Author Topic: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)  (Read 10600 times)

Offline John Rist

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Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« on: January 04, 2022, 09:23:58 AM »
The first step in the Brodak instruction book is to obtain a 3' x 6' 1/4" glass plate to build the Ares.  This is, of course, to have a flat building surface.  My existing flat building surface was not big enough to build an I-Beam model.  A big shocker was that such a piece of glass cost around $150.00.

So I built a flat work bench to build my E 59 Ares.   Built it from a Cabinet Grade Plywood Panel.   Common: 23/32 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft.; Actual: 0.688 in. x 48 in. x 96 in.  (From Home Depot)   Cut off several pieces 3 3/4" wide on a good table saw.  These became straight edge supports screwed to the back of the table.  The results is a very flat work surface At a cost of $60.00.  I already had the saw horses Photos and drawings attached.   D>K
« Last Edit: January 04, 2022, 09:45:36 AM by John Rist »
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Online Ken Culbertson

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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #1 on: January 04, 2022, 12:32:30 PM »
The first step in the Brodak instruction book is to obtain a 3' x 6' 1/4" glass plate to build the Ares.  This is, of course, to have a flat building surface.  My existing flat building surface was not big enough to build an I-Beam model.  A big shocker was that such a piece of glass cost around $150.00.

So I built a flat work bench to build my E 59 Ares.   Built it from a Cabinet Grade Plywood Panel.   Common: 23/32 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft.; Actual: 0.688 in. x 48 in. x 96 in.  (From Home Depot)   Cut off several pieces 3 3/4" wide on a good table saw.  These became straight edge supports screwed to the back of the table.  The results is a very flat work surface At a cost of $60.00.  I already had the saw horses Photos and drawings attached.   D>K
b1
I am jealous!!

Ken
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Offline John Rist

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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #2 on: January 08, 2022, 05:30:21 PM »
First step is to install the Brodak electric conversion kit. It seems that E-conversion instructions, at best, are only a guide.  I found a picture on Stunt Hanger of Brodak's E-conversion.  This got me headed in the right direction.  I then used the full size Brodak plans to locate the motor.  From the plans I was able to get the motor thrust line in the same place as the wet engine.  I also was able to get the spinner back plate in the right location. Per the Brodak instructions You build in the motor to the point it takes surgery to remove it.  This didn't make any sense to me.  The chance of getting crud in the motor during finishing is enough to make it a bad deal. The other problem is battling the the weight of the motor during the rest of the build.  I made the noise ring removable by mounting it with 3 wood screws.  Hard wood inserts imbedded in the balsa wood secure the wood screws.  It will be impossible to use the fiber glass cowling that came in the kit.  I will carve a wood block to colse in the bottom of the motor.  It will have an air scoop to force cooling air over the ESC.
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Offline Avaiojet

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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #3 on: January 08, 2022, 06:11:55 PM »
John,

You're making progress, a good thing.

What did you choose for a motor?

Nice so far.

Charles
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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #4 on: January 09, 2022, 08:29:57 AM »
First step is to install the Brodak electric conversion kit. It seems that E-conversion instructions, at best, are only a guide.  I found a picture on Stunt Hanger of Brodak's E-conversion.  This got me headed in the right direction.  I then used the full size Brodak plans to locate the motor.  From the plans I was able to get the motor thrust line in the same place as the wet engine.  I also was able to get the spinner back plate in the right location. Per the Brodak instructions You build in the motor to the point it takes surgery to remove it.  This didn't make any sense to me.  The chance of getting crud in the motor during finishing is enough to make it a bad deal. The other problem is battling the the weight of the motor during the rest of the build.  I made the noise ring removable by mounting it with 3 wood screws.  Hard wood inserts imbedded in the balsa wood secure the wood screws.  It will be impossible to use the fiber glass cowling that came in the kit.  I will carve a wood block to colse in the bottom of the motor.  It will have an air scoop to force cooling air over the ESC.

Yeah, some of those things send me on the short trip to crazy. I like the removable nose ring. Good plan there.
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Online Ken Culbertson

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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #5 on: January 09, 2022, 08:42:50 AM »
First step is to install the Brodak electric conversion kit. It seems that E-conversion instructions, at best, are only a guide.  I found a picture on Stunt Hanger of Brodak's E-conversion.  This got me headed in the right direction.  I then used the full size Brodak plans to locate the motor.  From the plans I was able to get the motor thrust line in the same place as the wet engine.  I also was able to get the spinner back plate in the right location. Per the Brodak instructions You build in the motor to the point it takes surgery to remove it.  This didn't make any sense to me.  The chance of getting crud in the motor during finishing is enough to make it a bad deal. The other problem is battling the the weight of the motor during the rest of the build.  I made the noise ring removable by mounting it with 3 wood screws.  Hard wood inserts imbedded in the balsa wood secure the wood screws.  It will be impossible to use the fiber glass cowling that came in the kit.  I will carve a wood block to colse in the bottom of the motor.  It will have an air scoop to force cooling air over the ESC.
This plane is a prime candidate for a through the firewall rear mount.  If it is not too late, check it out.  Also, if you cut the nose ring to about 1/8" a ball driver should be able to get to all 4 mounting screws.  A thick nose ring only blocks airflow.

Ken
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Offline Mark wood

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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #6 on: January 09, 2022, 09:11:09 AM »
This plane is a prime candidate for a through the firewall rear mount.  If it is not too late, check it out.  Also, if you cut the nose ring to about 1/8" a ball driver should be able to get to all 4 mounting screws.  A thick nose ring only blocks airflow.

Ken

Good feedback. I generally calculate the area in the passage between the spinner and the motor inlets. As long as the area is the same or slightly greater it should be good. The outlet side of the compartment needs to be 1.5 times the total area of all of the inlets or greater to get good airflow. The motor itself will pump air through it so, as long as you provide good cool air to it, it should be good. My preferred inlet method is to use an annulus which is slightly larger than the spinner. Getting the inlet area correct results in minimum drag and greater cooling air flow. Drawing air in from behind the spinner isn't quite as good and you need make sure the outlet provides a pressure drop in order to get the airflow. Most don't get overly worried about that and if there is about a 1/16 gap between spinner an nose ring there should be enough to provide good airflow. This assumes no further area restrictions.

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Offline John Rist

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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #7 on: January 09, 2022, 12:26:05 PM »
John,
What did you choose for a motor?
Charles
BADASS 2826-820kv  KR timer 4 cells
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Offline Brent Williams

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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #8 on: January 09, 2022, 01:26:03 PM »
BADASS 2826-820kv  KR timer 4 cells

 
Unless you specifically need the nose weight, why so much motor for a classic Ares? That motor is strong enough to fly a 60oz Impact or SV.
The 2826 is 6.35oz. 
The 2820 is 5.22oz
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Offline John Rist

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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #9 on: January 10, 2022, 07:49:53 AM »

Unless you specifically need the nose weight, why so much motor for a classic Ares? That motor is strong enough to fly a 60oz Impact or SV.
The 2826 is 6.35oz. 
The 2820 is 5.22oz
True.  My bad.  The good news is that 2820 will drop in place with a little shorting of the noise.  By the way this is another reason I don't like a rear mount. You must modify the noise to change the length of the motor.   Don't think I will ever build another rear mount electric. For now I will stay with the 2826.  I am mostly a sport flyer.  Don't think it will make much differance to me.
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Online Ken Culbertson

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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #10 on: January 10, 2022, 11:10:20 AM »
True.  My bad.  The good news is that 2820 will drop in place with a little shorting of the noise.  By the way this is another reason I don't like a rear mount. You must modify the noise to change the length of the motor.   Don't think I will ever build another rear mount electric. For now I will stay with the 2826.  I am mostly a sport flyer.  Don't think it will make much differance to me.
If you are using a constant RPM timer it won't matter one bit except battery usage.  I think the 2826 has a 4-6s range where the 2820 is 3-5s.  IMHO it is always better to have more motor than not enough.

Ken 
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Offline John Rist

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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #11 on: January 11, 2022, 02:09:36 PM »
I am now working on inserting the bulkheads in the fuselage.  I have observed two things.  Number one is that it is advisable to insert the flap horn in its location before you glue in the bulkheads.  It won't go in without binding the sides out.  If you glue in the bulkheads first it would require cutting a slot in the side to insert the horn.  Number two is that care must be taken to make sure that the clearance holes for the push rods are in the right place and large enough.  Bulkhead number two has no hole.  It takes a little thinking to get it in the right place.

I do have a question.  Is the push rod setup as shown on the plane OK?  ie the plans show which holes to use in the bell crank and flap horns.  Once the top and bottom block are in place it will impossible to change.  Or at least very unpleasent.
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Online Ken Culbertson

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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #12 on: January 11, 2022, 03:05:05 PM »
.... If you glue in the bulkheads first it would require cutting a slot in the side to insert the horn.
So cut the slot.  I used to get all bent out of shape worrying about sliding the wing into the fuselage, slots for the flap horn, etc.  So cut out what you need then CA it back.  Anything that goes inside the fuselage sides or under the finish only needs to look nice to make you happy.

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Offline John Rist

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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #13 on: January 13, 2022, 08:31:22 AM »
So cut the slot.  I used to get all bent out of shape worrying about sliding the wing into the fuselage, slots for the flap horn, etc.  So cut out what you need then CA it back.  Anything that goes inside the fuselage sides or under the finish only needs to look nice to make you happy.

Ken
All true but this is an I-beam wing. Every thing gets built as one piece.  Also you need the aileron horn in place to plot the path of the push rods so you can cut clearence holes in the headers.  I am finding out I-beamers are different!!!   mw~
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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #14 on: January 13, 2022, 02:09:19 PM »
All true but this is an I-beam wing. Everything gets built as one piece.  Also, you need the aileron horn in place to plot the path of the push rods so you can cut clearance holes in the headers.  I am finding out I-beamers are different!!!   mw~
I have built a bunch of I-Beams.  You can still cut slots to slide in the flap horn.  I used to mount the bellcrank in the beam before putting on the fuselage sides.  Agreed they are different and in many ways better.  It is pretty simple to get a straight airplane off of the bench with a properly constructed I-Beam.

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Offline John Rist

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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #15 on: January 15, 2022, 03:18:56 PM »
Battery hatch is finished.  I decided to make the latch magnetic.  Hollowing it out was a pain. I installed a Forstner drill bit in my drill press and set the depth gage on the press to an 1/8".  I used this to hog out the majority of the wood.  I also fashioned a make shift thickness gage out of plywood.  I calibrated it with a piece of 1/8" and 1/16" balsa stock.  In the picture you can see the pencil marks made by clamping the stock in the jaws of the contraption and drawing a line.  Crude, not all that accurate, but it kept me from breaking through to the outside and ruining the hatch.  Next I will create the rest of the top and bottom blocks.  Ty has loaned me his set of block molds.  I plan yo use them.  It will save a lot of digging balsa.  It will also save a lot of weight.    n~   #^
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Offline Avaiojet

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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #16 on: January 15, 2022, 03:38:37 PM »
Battery hatch is finished.  I decided to make the latch magnetic.  Hollowing it out was a pain. I installed a Forstner drill bit in my drill press and set the depth gage on the press to an 1/8".  I used this to hog out the majority of the wood.  I also fashioned a make shift thickness gage out of plywood.  I calibrated it with a piece of 1/8" and 1/16" balsa stock.  In the picture you can see the pencil marks made by clamping the stock in the jaws of the contraption and drawing a line.  Crude, not all that accurate, but it kept me from breaking through to the outside and ruining the hatch.  Next I will create the rest of the top and bottom blocks.  Ty has loaned me his set of block molds.  I plan yo use them.  It will save a lot of digging balsa.  It will also save a lot of weight.    n~   #^

John,

Glad to see you're moving along. That "thickness" gauge is a great idea. Wish I saw this earlier.

Keep up the good work.

Charles
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Offline John Rist

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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #17 on: January 18, 2022, 09:48:28 AM »
Top and bottom molded deck finished.  Molds loaned to me by Ty.  Soaked in tap hot water for about 5 to 10 minutes.  Let dry over night. worked great.   y1
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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #18 on: January 21, 2022, 05:08:31 PM »
I was not happy with the molded top turtle deck so I decided to carve one from the block of wood that came in the kit.  It's was a little disappointing that the plans do not have cross of the various bulkheads.  They only show F2.  From that I made a set of templets F2, F3, F4, F5, & F6.  The results is a turtle deck that fits well, has a solid flat spot for the rudder, and fits the molded canape.  Have not hollowed it out yet.  But right now it look good.   D>K
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Offline Avaiojet

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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #19 on: January 21, 2022, 05:34:35 PM »
I was not happy with the molded top turtle deck so I decided to carve one from the block of wood that came in the kit.  It's was a little disappointing that the plans do not have cross of the various bulkheads.  They only show F2.  From that I made a set of templets F2, F3, F4, F5, & F6.  The results is a turtle deck that fits well, has a solid flat spot for the rudder, and fits the molded canape.  Have not hollowed it out yet.  But right now it look good.   D>K

John,

What problem did you have with the pieces you made?  Are you sheeting with 3/32? or 1/16"?

Charles
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Offline John Rist

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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #20 on: January 22, 2022, 09:31:29 AM »
John,

What problem did you have with the pieces you made?  Are you sheeting with 3/32? or 1/16"?

Charles
No real problem.  Just didn't like the way it was going to fit especially the Brodak clear canape.  Also it still required creating bulkheads and gluing them in place.  Besides you still have to carve the tail end part from a solid block to provide good support under the rudder.  The block of balsa that came in the kit was good stuff, (light) and carved very easily. Will fit good and looks good.  Looks like the bottom molded decking will work.  I plan to use it.
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Offline John Rist

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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #21 on: January 22, 2022, 12:56:58 PM »
HI John. I used those two forms on an Ares built from plans. No doubt it is slightly different from a kit.   Never fails. D>K
Ty It's all good.  I have the top covered and the bottom will work.   #^
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Offline John Rist

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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #22 on: January 23, 2022, 09:07:56 AM »
Do you have the wing finished?  If not, be sure to remove the top and bottom blocks before starting the wing. D>K
Have not started the wing yet.  I won't hard mount the blocks till the wing is finished.   y1
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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #23 on: January 23, 2022, 09:16:54 AM »
Have not started the wing yet.  I won't hard mount the blocks till the wing is finished.   y1

John,

The Ares I built years ago before the earth was formed, the gear was attached to the "I" beam with "J" bolts. Is this kit different, "I" beam not used for gear mounting? Two wood blocks for gear?

Charles
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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #24 on: January 23, 2022, 09:59:30 AM »
gear was attached to the "I" beam with "J" bolts.
I think the current "state of the Art is to use copper wire to wrap it to the beam but why would you trade the ease and strength of mounting to the beam for blocks?

Answer is that he is referring to the top and bottom blocks that have to be off to build the wing.

Ken 
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Offline Avaiojet

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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #25 on: January 23, 2022, 10:54:13 AM »
I think the current "state of the Art is to use copper wire to wrap it to the beam but why would you trade the ease and strength of mounting to the beam for blocks?

Answer is that he is referring to the top and bottom blocks that have to be off to build the wing.

Ken

Ken,

Thank you.

I'm not getting enough sleep. Is this a good excuse?

It's nice to see an Ares go together. Brings back lost memories.

Keep up the good work John.

Charles
Trump Derangement Syndrome. TDS. 
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Amazing how ignorance can get in the way of the learning process.
If you're Trolled, you know you're doing something right.  Alpha Mike Foxtrot. "No one has ever made a difference by being like everyone else."  Marcus Cordeiro, The "Mark of Excellence," you will not be forgotten. "No amount of evidence will ever persuade an idiot."- Mark Twain. I look at the Forum as a place to contribute and make friends, some view it as a Realm where they could be King.   Proverb 11.9  "With his mouth the Godless destroys his neighbor..."  "Perhaps the greatest challenge in modeling is to build a competitive control line stunter that looks like a real airplane." David McCellan, 1980.

Offline John Rist

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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #26 on: January 30, 2022, 05:50:04 PM »
Finally finished the motor/air intake noise block.  It is removable.  It is held in place with 3 noise ring bolts and one 4-40 bolt in the belly.  It looks like I can remove a lot more wood from the inside.  Also I can remove some wood from outside around the air inlet hole.  This is the last of the "your on your own" created by the electric conversion.  I will now read the Brodak instructions and follow them (or not).   D>K
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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #27 on: January 30, 2022, 05:50:46 PM »
More pictures:
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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #28 on: February 06, 2022, 01:51:25 PM »
Building the wing is next. However, I decided to install the electronics first.  It much easier to work in crowded battery compartment without having to swing a wing around.  Will take pictures and post when I get the layout figured out and installed.   Also will plan and cut the cooling air exit holes.  Type at you later.   D>K
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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #29 on: February 06, 2022, 05:24:08 PM »
Well it all fits and works. First picture, DSC-7044, is the arming plug and start/stop switch.  Second picture, DSC-7046, is battery stuffed in place. Third picture, DSC-7047, Is the KR timer.  Forth Picture, DSC-4750, Is the ESC under the bottom of the battery compartment.  It all comes out now and will get reinstalled after the airplane is finished and painted.  It won't be easy but doable.  The big challenge will be to install the ESC after the bottom block is glued in place.  There is plenty of room to slide it into place but almost impossible to tie down.  However, It quite possible that the cooling air exit hole could be located right under the ESC making it possible to get the tiedown lacing cord around the ESC.  #^
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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #30 on: February 17, 2022, 04:41:16 PM »
Ready to start adding ribs. As I understand it you do the bottom ribs first leaving out some of the ribs in the landing gear location.  Next comes the top ribs and then the 1/2 ribs top and bottom.  Using the plans as a guide I have marked the location of the ribs on the leading and trailing edge.  It looks like that the landing gear can be installed after the bird is ready for paint.  At that time the gear can be installed and the missing bottom ribs be installed.   D>K
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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #31 on: February 26, 2022, 01:43:30 PM »
Wing ribs installed.  Next step is shape leading edge and add wing tips.  I do plan to add a line slider.   D>K
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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #32 on: February 26, 2022, 02:05:15 PM »
Wing ribs installed.  Next step is shape leading edge and add wing tips.  I do plan to add a line slider.   D>K

You've come a long way John. Looks like really good framing on not your typical model.

Is the wing still removable?

Charles
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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #33 on: February 26, 2022, 02:10:10 PM »

Is the wing still removable?

Charles
A removable I-Beam?

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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #34 on: February 26, 2022, 03:10:56 PM »

Is the wing still removable?

Charles
No  That's the good news and bad news.  It's supposedly lighter but It's pain in the B%$ to work with wing and body all in one.  mw~
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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #35 on: February 26, 2022, 03:43:07 PM »
No  That's the good news and bad news.  It's supposedly lighter but It's pain in the B%$ to work with wing and body all in one.  mw~

John,

Wasn't most stunt ships built, over the years, with the fuselage sides connected to the wing during framing?

Charles
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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #36 on: February 26, 2022, 08:03:27 PM »
John,

Wasn't most stunt ships built, over the years, with the fuselage sides connected to the wing during framing?

Charles
Don't know about that.  This is the first one like this for me.  Most of what I built in the past were profile ships.   ???  :-\
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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #37 on: February 26, 2022, 08:06:06 PM »
Modified wing tip.  Added a line slider.   D>K
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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #38 on: March 14, 2022, 02:56:56 PM »
Finished the wing except for mounting the landing gear and installing the remining bottom ribs around same.  Starting to work on the tail feathers.   D>K
« Last Edit: March 15, 2022, 12:19:04 PM by John Rist »
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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #39 on: March 14, 2022, 10:24:18 PM »
That is some mighty fine work there as my dear ole Dad would say. H^^
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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #40 on: March 17, 2022, 04:21:32 PM »
The problem is how do you drill the holes in the elevator so they are in in the right place and squire with the hinge line?

First of all I marked the center of the hinge line with a Dubro hinge center finder tool.  Next I located the location of the holes per the drawing.  I have a machinist vice.  I clamped the elevator in the vice using scrap balsawood as soft jaws.  I checked the level of the top of the vice, (DSC_7097).  I then leveled the elevator and snugly tightened the vice, (DSC_7098).  I moved this setup to the drill press and rechecked square with the drill bit, (DSC_7099).  Results was an assembly that matched the drawing, (DSC_7101).   D>K
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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #41 on: March 17, 2022, 04:22:44 PM »
More
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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #42 on: April 05, 2022, 08:09:15 AM »
Work has stopped for now.  Been in a bit of an car accident.  Will post when I do more work on the 59 Ares.
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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #43 on: April 05, 2022, 04:20:28 PM »
That car looks bad.  Hope you didn't get hurt to much. D>K
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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #44 on: April 07, 2022, 05:27:09 AM »
That car looks bad.  Hope you didn't get hurt to much. D>K

I am pretty much OK.  However the wife (Peggy) has 6 broken ribs.  Accident was the other car's driver's fault.  Right now my full time job is cleaning up the mess and taking care of Peggy.  Hopefully I will be back to some fun stuff soon, such as finishing my 59 Ares.   #^
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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #45 on: April 07, 2022, 11:32:58 AM »
Yep, family comes first.  Now you know she is well under paid for what she does.  Take care. D>K
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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #46 on: April 12, 2022, 06:28:31 AM »
I am pretty much OK.  However the wife (Peggy) has 6 broken ribs.  Accident was the other car's driver's fault.  Right now my full time job is cleaning up the mess and taking care of Peggy.  Hopefully I will be back to some fun stuff soon, such as finishing my 59 Ares.   #^

I've been through that myself. Prayers for your wife's full recovery.
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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #47 on: September 17, 2022, 09:40:54 PM »
Well I am back working on my 59 Ares.  I have mounted the elevator.  I am now setting up the flap to elevator push rod.  Once the fuselage top and bottom blocks are added it is very difficult to adjust this push rod. so the question is should the flaps and elevator be set to zero offset? Or should there be a little offset between them?  I seem to have read somewhere that a little offset keeps the ship from hunting.  ???   D>K
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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #48 on: September 19, 2022, 12:13:31 PM »
ON all my Ares, about 7 of them I set the flaps/elevators at zero/zero.  D>K
OK Will do.  Thanks
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Re: Starting to build a 59 Ares (Brodak kit)
« Reply #49 on: October 19, 2022, 07:15:39 PM »
Added fuselage top and bottom blocks.  This is my first built up fuselage kit.  It is amazing how stiff things get when adding the blocks.  So far the controls are very free. Controls flop from the weight of the ailerons.  Haven't glued the hinges yet so I still have a chance to muck up the control system.  LL~
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