OK, guys, what do I need to do to the parts from the kit to mount an electric motor instead of a IC engine?  Like I know the maple motor mounts wouldn't be needed, but what about the ply doublers, etc??

I am planning on doing the "Fancher Mods" to the kit, but need an idea of what to do for mounting the electric motor.  it is a "front mount" motor.  We are using the electric set up that comes with the Brodak Super Clown Elec/Arf.  Brother Denny A. assures me the motor will be enough since he basically developed the system for Brodak.

Thanks!
Bill

Hi Bill,

I have developed a very simple, effective way of making a profile e-stunter nose. If you look at the photos below you can see how simple it is. This was for my take-apart profile called Protron, but it will work on any profile design. If you like, I can e-mail you the plans of my Eze-Pro electric profile. I did not make proper plans of my Protron, but there are plenty of Eze-Pro's flying around here in Darkest Africa, and they fly a lot better than Twisters IMHO. The plans are in A0 pdf format and can be printed full size by any print shop these days. The file size is also small so let me know if I can mail it to you. I still have your e-mail address. Even if you don't want to build the Eze-Pro, you can get some ideas for your Twister. I've included a pic of Peter Locke's version called the "40 Watt". Here are the photos:

Keith,
Very, very nice.

O.K. I managed to get the plan of the Electric Eze-Pro loaded on my website. (I always forget how to do this after a while) Here is the link: http://www.keithrenecle.co.za/Electric%20CL.htm

I used the E-Max or Arrowind 2820 motor with a 40 amp esc, and with my governor timer, it makes a low-cost, easy to use package. The wing is built with a similar system to the Tom Morris Millenium wing that uses ribs like the I-Beam system. I make my own bellcranks from 6 mm polyethylene (it machines easier than nylon) but you can use whatever bellcrank you like. If anyone needs more details then drop me an e-mail.

Keith R

The principle is pretty simple: put a firewall where you want the motor to be. Maple mounts may well be overkill for supporting the "firewall", but also consider balance. Don't build the nose so light that you'll have to add weight. If you are going to have weight there anyway, it might as well be doing something useful, like adding strength.

Keith R,  now have your site in my favorites.  The planes look so much better with all the wires out of sight.   

Keith R,  now have your site in my favorites.  The planes look so much better with all the wires out of sight.   

Thanks John, my thoughts exactly, an it's quite easy (or is that "Eze"?) to do. 

Keith R

Very clean installation, beautiful!