Thinking of getting back to CL.  Leaning toward electric.  How are the Brodak conversion kits and electric power packages? 
Wanting to power my Goldberg Shoestring Stunter and an RSM Humongous.
I remember that RSM had electric stuff, but when I go to his website, there is a message that he is not in business due to health issues. 

Dennis.  Thanks for the good info.  I used to have the RC electric equipment; including a good charger.  I sold or gave away most of it.  Dumb, I know.  Anyway, I will check the links.  The Shoestring is already built and has a glow engine.  I can  probably modify it to work.

By all means do the Shoestring first.  A BadAss or Cobra 2820 will be more than enough power on a 4s Battery.  If you want to get feisty, use the BadAss on a 5 or 6s.  I think the BadAss 2820 and up will all go to 6s.  My choice would be a BA 2820 910 with a Castle Phoenix or Tallon ESC and a Huban FM-9 timer.  Both the motor and ESC will support the more expensive active timers but you simply do not need an active timer on Shoestring.  The Humongous, maybe if you are serious about OTS.  You might want a 2826 or a 3515 for it but only for nose weight or if you want to swing a larger than 11" prop.  I seriously don't think a Humongous needs an active timer but I don't have one so I will defer that question to someone that has one.

The telemetry box for the Huban is expensive so you have to consider how many timers it will be supporting.  The one for Igor's and the Fiorotti active timers is cheaper, but the timers are more expensive.

If you are good with soldering electronics, the Climb and Dive may be a good choice.  It looks like they are trying to duplicate the powers vested in an accelerometer equipped timer without the heavy cost.  Whatever you do, consider the next level.  If you are going to a PA capable plane after the Shoestring, start out with the equipment you will want to use when you get there.  The Huban gives you a reliable electric 4-2-4.  You will love it, but flying the properly setup active timer you will need for PA a completely different experience.   I went from IC to the Huban FM-9 and flew a total of four planes with them for 2 years.  When they were destroyed in a fire, I used the insurance to re-outfit with Fiorotti timers, BadAss motors and JettiSpin ESC's.  What I experienced was so much better than the Huban that after nearly 3 years I still have not gotten rid of all the 4-2-4 muscle memories.

Good luck - Ken

Dave,
For the Shoestring conversion you can make a mount plate that fits between the mounts and is held in by L clips thorough the existing IC mounts and a bottom one through a plywood either that is the existing doubler or you could add one. Here are a couple of photos of mine on profile ships. They are front mounts, could do something similar for rear mounts.

Best,   DennisT

Dennis, is that a 4s Li-Ion battery?  Very clean setup.

Ken

The setup in the photo is an older one (2010) just to show the way I converted the mounts. It is an AXI and old A123 pack. This was the second electric ship I built and I was concerned about Lipos as I didn't understand that the problems were from overcharging like they were nicads. The A123's were very safe but heavy. As I learned about the different packs and charging system I switch to Lipos.

The current power in the TutorII is a Hacker 30 10XL  900Kv, APCE-P 11 3/4x6, with a Castle Creations Phoenix 45 ESC, Ztron timer, pack is Thunder Power 25C, 4S 3400mah, 63' C to C, 0.015 SS cable lines.

I am a very lazy about the setup, I use fixed rpm mode (set all three sections to the same rpm ~9700) and use the time to set the 20sec delay motor start time and flight time.

Best,   DennisT

I have and have used most all of the ESCs. My go to are the ZTW Beatless series. I used them with both the Hubin and active timers including timers of my own creation and they work as good as ESCs costing several times The price of admission. the real key is to just get started with something easy and inexpensive. I don't like ESC's that take sophisticated programming boxes in general, especially for beginners. The ZTW has a very simple plug in programming card. For the guys I have mentored, this has been The Way..

KISS

... and they work as good as ESCs costing several times The price of admission.

Mark, is the ZTW fast enough for pattern flying?  IMHO, to be effective the boost in a corner has to come while you are in the corner and as early in the corner as possible.  Having it come after you have exited the corner makes it very difficult to make flat flats.

Ken