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Author Topic: Electric Magician  (Read 1468 times)

Offline Dan Bregar

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Electric Magician
« on: October 07, 2010, 07:23:28 PM »
Attn. Dean Papas

      Hi Dean.  I just got off the phone with one of your good buddies. (He kept saying we only have one hobby, spending money), and he thought I should pick your brain for my new project.  I'm just starting a build  on a Brodak Magician profile kit.  I could use your input about making it my first electric C/L airplane.  The ready to fly weight should be approx. 36 oz. It has a wing span of 43 1/2".  I will fly it on 60 ft. lines. I'm looking for approx. 5 sec. lap times.  Any chance you could recommend a power package that would give me approx. 5 1/2 to 6 min. flight duration.  I get my kv's, amps & watts all mixed up.  They don't smell like Missile Mist either !  n~  Any help is much appreciated.  Thanks

Dan Bregar
« Last Edit: October 09, 2010, 06:04:49 PM by Dan Bregar »
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Offline Rudy Taube

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Re: Electric Magician
« Reply #1 on: October 07, 2010, 10:07:27 PM »
Dan,

You may want to go to the top of the main page of this section and look at other setups. Tim has a Magician listed there. I agree with his recommendation to go with the E-Flite 10. I have the 10 on my 36 oz 3D ERC Acro Master park flyer with a 3S 2100 mAh battery. It is about the same size as your plane, a little larger. It will fly out of my hand straight up doing vertical rolls out of sight. This is enough for our CLPA use. My ERC flys for 6.5 very active mins., but we need more amps in our ECL batteries because we are always at a high throttle setting and we have lines to drag around.

There are other setups for your size plane in this "setup" section. You don't have to know about KVs, watts etc. if you just COPY one of these successful setups. There are several systems that will work, but there is no need to reinvent the wheel here. ...... Tim's with a 10 and an APC 12 x 6 EP prop and an E-Flite 40A ESC is a good setup that will meet all your CLPA needs. You will be happy with it! :-)

Here is a link to buy the motor and ESC:   http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=EFLM4010A#quickSpecs

I think any of the systems used in a Flight Streak would also work well in your plane. I'm sure others will have more input for you.

Please don't let all our "techie" talk on this forum make you think that you need to know any of this stuff. If you want to fly ECL then just copy a successful system and go fly. If you want to experiment and you really like reinventing the wheel then, and only then, you may want to read a lot of our posts, but it is NOT necessary. Many of my ERC friends are very experienced aero space engineers who really understand electronics, but I also have ERC friends that don't know a KV from a KW and they just copy one of our systems and go fly the pattern and have a lot of fun doing it!  :)

« Last Edit: October 08, 2010, 03:18:57 PM by Rudy Taube »
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Offline wwwarbird

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Re: Electric Magician
« Reply #2 on: October 07, 2010, 11:06:12 PM »
 An e-e-electric Magician? OMG, what is this world coming to?! :'(

 When building a Magician or a Barnstormer, aren't you supposed to pre-soak all of the wood in castor? :##
Narrowly averting disaster since 1964! 

Wayne Willey
Albert Lea, MN U.S.A. IC C/L Aircraft Modeler, Ex AMA member

Offline Terry Bernard

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Re: Electric Magician
« Reply #3 on: October 08, 2010, 06:53:43 AM »
An e-e-electric Magician? OMG, what is this world coming to?! :'(

 When building a Magician or a Barnstormer, aren't you supposed to pre-soak all of the wood in castor? :##

The "World" passed by that train station several YEARS ago!. Pity you were not able to get a ticket.   LL~

Only pre-soak if your joints are older than the Declaration of Independence.

Terry.

Offline Tim Stagg

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Re: Electric Magician
« Reply #4 on: October 08, 2010, 09:19:44 AM »
Dan,

I replied to your e-mail at length, probably too long n~, oh well I just got off a red eye and I am a little tired Z@@ZZZ. Let me know if you have any questions about my reply.

Tim
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Offline Dean Pappas

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Re: Electric Magician
« Reply #5 on: October 10, 2010, 07:20:23 PM »
Hello Dan,
Sorry to take so long in responding.
Like you've read already, you'll end up with a motor in the 3-1/2 to 4-1/2 ounce neighborhood for your Magician. In the Rimfires, for example, that would be a Rimfire 15 or a 25.
The R15 is a 1200 Kv motor, and if combined with a 3S battery you'll end up with a practical range for the governed RPM of 10,000 to 11,000 RPM. (75% of Kv * Vbattery, give or take 5 or so percent)
The prop will probably be an 11-5 as the 5-pitch and 10,500 RPM is close to a 6 second lap.

As for me, I'd rather see you use a 4S battery and a 4" pitch prop, because the 3/4/5 ounce motors all have fairly high resistances, and the efficiency gets dramatically better on 4S.
The 3S setup would probably require a 2600 mAH to 3000 mAH battery, while a 2100 or 2200 will do for 4S.
In that case, I'd go for the slightly heavier R25 and play with both 4" and 5" pitch props.
That motor will also be a better bet for a full 40-ounce (okay, 39-1/2!) ship later. 

You are looking for  Kv between 900 and 1100 for a 4S system, and a Kv around 1200 or 1300 for a 3S system.
As you go searching for parts, keep us updated.
Dean P.
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Offline Dan Bregar

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Re: Electric Magician
« Reply #6 on: October 27, 2010, 06:26:53 PM »
I recently got some high quality advice on the power package for my Magician and the components have been ordered. I'm going to go with the Arrowind 2815 mtr. from Brodak, the Hubin FM-2SR timer, a Castle Phoenix 35 ESC, and a 4S2200 Arrowind battery. Probably start out with a 10 x 5 prop and go from there.  It will be nice to fly it in my local school yard and not have the Cops come and throw me out after two flights, like in the old days. After reading Bob Hunt's article in the current Model Aviation about bearing failure, I'm wondering if I should have gone with a front mount mtr. instead of a rear mount though. More will be revealed. H^^
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Offline Dennis Adamisin

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Re: Electric Magician
« Reply #7 on: October 28, 2010, 02:59:45 AM »
I have outrunners mounted both ways.  Rear mount cools better and is easier to mount.  Front mount SEEMS like it should be less stressful on the motor.
I am thinking it this way: for up to an 11" prop, I will be OK with a rear mount, with a 12" or 13" I will likely use a front mount or better still a dual mount - that is an external bearing - ala Hunt, Rigotti & Whittle.

Bob Hunt is (was?) using AXI's and either an 11" 3-blade (I think) or 12" 2-blade prop  I'm not sure if he ever went to the 13".  The AXI is the oldest outrunner out there, it was originally sold as a front mount motor, then later they created a hardware kit to make it rear mount.  The Arrowind you bought was designed to be rear mount from the outset; I think that makes a difference.  Of course the Arrowind is reversible should you choose.

The 2815 is constructed the same as the 2832 (except for the 17mm difference in length in the windings and magnet can)  That means it has the same bearings and same basic core construction as the larger motor, I think that is also a very good thing.

EDIT to add following:
Most - but not all - of the outrunners use common construction across a given diameter of motor.  However some use smaller shaft and bearings on the shorter versions of the motors than on the longer motors in the same family.  I do not have my motor chart handy but I think the AXI 2808 & 2814 use 4mm shaft/bearings and 5mm for the 2820 & 2826.  In the Turnigy red/blue motors, the 3633 uses a 4mm shaft/bearings, and the 3639 uses a 5mm shaft/bearings.
end EDIT

For the Magician and the 2815, turning a 10" prop, I would opt for the rear mount.

« Last Edit: October 28, 2010, 12:23:08 PM by Dennis Adamisin »
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As I've grown older, I've learned that pleasing everyone is impossible, but pissing everyone off is a piece of cake!

Offline Dan Bregar

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Re: Electric Magician
« Reply #8 on: October 28, 2010, 05:11:06 PM »
And so it shall be !!!  HH%%  Thanks much Dennis.

Dan
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