I noticed a metal motor mount. Are you using plywood doublers to attach it?
Fernando

Mike

The weight ready to fly is 51.3 oz. Sorry, I did not weigh the arf but since the finish method is the same i expect its within the normal weight range of the ARF. Would not expect it to be lighter or heavier.

The windex method is very simple and fun. The primary covering can be any material. I use Ultracote just because I like its working properties and end results better than any of the other films. It has a low stick temp, a very wide range of shrink temp (ie it can shrink alot more than others and you can control what you need better) and it bubbles up less than monocote. Very much better over solid surfaces. The trims must be Monocote or Black Baron film. Ultracote will not work here. Cut your trim pieces. Spray the surface they are going to go on with Windex, and apply the film like you would a slide off decal. You can move it until you are happy with its position. If the Windex starts to dry and it doesn't move and you still are not happy, shoot it with windex again and it will move. Once you are positioned use a credit card to squeege the excell windex from under the trim piece. I find it a good idea to watch it a bit to make sure no areas lift slightly along an edge which it will do only if you do not have the piece straight as cut.  Apply all your trims and let it dry for a day. The use monocote adhesive solvent on a cotton swab and go along all the edges with it. It will seep under the film strongly activate the adhesive, and its there for the duration and fuel proof. As soon as you apply this solution you must wipe off the excess. If it dries you will have alot of work to get it rubbed off. When you wipe it off you will have to do some buffing to get it all off. This results in a higher sheen on all the materials than they normally posses! This is the method the RC folks use for doing things like flags with the folds and shadows showing thru from behind (transparent color on top, transparent shadow beneath.) If you tried to do it with heat all the different temps would just make it a shriveled mess. Also applying a trim color over another color will cause bubbles between the materials which are very difficult to control. And lastly applying straight line trims with heat will result in non straight lines. I know this sounds so dumb it must not work. But it does. Don't know about other solvents for the windex. Every time I or anyone else has written about this everyone seems to go off on "well can I use ...." I don't know. Windex just works. BTW, I find it a good idea to clean off the surface with air, a tack rag, and the windex before applying the trims so you don't get dust specks showing thru.

Bob Branch

It looks good Bob.  Nice color choices. Is that slide pin cowl hold down spring loaded?
I missed you today in Toledo. I hung around the Brodak booth for awhile.

How about posting a picture of how you've arranged the spring?

I left for home around one o'clock. Got lots of goodies. Saw Art got the engines for the twin from him. I'm geeked and ready to start flying.

Thanks for the pics Bob..........good job you did there.

Mark

I aggree. And we should point out that you do not do the monocote solvent application til that time has elapsed or you  could entrap the stuff. Thanks for adding your comment Mark.

Bob Branch

Here in the UK we use Fairey Liquid (washing-up liquid) and water to stick the trim. The method really does work well. Certain paints also work OK over Ultracoat (Oracover) too.

I used small magnets to attach the cowl of my recent Thunderbird. They are 6mm x 2mm and once you get the method sorted out work really well. Very positive and strong - and invisible too!

I don't know how to attach a photo here. If I did know, I'd show it.

Charles
Canterbury
UK

Mike

The weight ready to fly is 51.3 oz. Sorry, I did not weigh the arf but since the finish method is the same i expect its within the normal weight range of the ARF. Would not expect it to be lighter or heavier.

The windex method is very simple and fun. The primary covering can be any material. I use Ultracote just because I like its working properties and end results better than any of the other films. It has a low stick temp, a very wide range of shrink temp (ie it can shrink alot more than others and you can control what you need better) and it bubbles up less than monocote. Very much better over solid surfaces. The trims must be Monocote or Black Baron film. Ultracote will not work here. Cut your trim pieces. Spray the surface they are going to go on with Windex, and apply the film like you would a slide off decal. You can move it until you are happy with its position. If the Windex starts to dry and it doesn't move and you still are not happy, shoot it with windex again and it will move. Once you are positioned use a credit card to squeege the excell windex from under the trim piece. I find it a good idea to watch it a bit to make sure no areas lift slightly along an edge which it will do only if you do not have the piece straight as cut.  Apply all your trims and let it dry for a day. The use monocote adhesive solvent on a cotton swab and go along all the edges with it. It will seep under the film strongly activate the adhesive, and its there for the duration and fuel proof. As soon as you apply this solution you must wipe off the excess. If it dries you will have alot of work to get it rubbed off. When you wipe it off you will have to do some buffing to get it all off. This results in a higher sheen on all the materials than they normally posses! This is the method the RC folks use for doing things like flags with the folds and shadows showing thru from behind (transparent color on top, transparent shadow beneath.) If you tried to do it with heat all the different temps would just make it a shriveled mess. Also applying a trim color over another color will cause bubbles between the materials which are very difficult to control. And lastly applying straight line trims with heat will result in non straight lines. I know this sounds so dumb it must not work. But it does. Don't know about other solvents for the windex. Every time I or anyone else has written about this everyone seems to go off on "well can I use ...." I don't know. Windex just works. BTW, I find it a good idea to clean off the surface with air, a tack rag, and the windex before applying the trims so you don't get dust specks showing thru.

Bob Branch

Any idea what the 'active ingredient' might be in Windex that works with the film adhesive? I am trying to identify a Windex equivalent in the UK.

Much obliged

Maurice

Maurice,
I am not sure if you saw this over on SSW, but the 8th reply gives the formula of Windex. What is interesting is that that original thread, like this one, were just "resurected" from the past!
Here is the link to the Windex thread on SSW.
http://www.clstunt.com/htdocs/dc/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=103&topic_id=254521&mesg_id=254521&page=#254565

Note added: If you are "Shobosh", then you are the one that pulled it out of the past! But the formula is given in my link above.