Author Topic: Protroma 2011 (Read 7366 times)

Crist Rigotti · « **on:** November 13, 2010, 09:16:24 PM »

OK guys. A build thread on next year's stunter. It will be similar to my Resolve from 2 years ago. Some basic stats:

Wingspan - 56 1/2 inches
Wing area - 620 sq in
Tail Volume - 25%
Motor - Scorpion SII-3026-710
ESC - Castle ICE 50 Lite
Battery - ~~Flightmax 5S 3000mah 20C~~ Thunder Power G6 5S 2700mah Pro Lite
Timer - ~~JMP....for now.~~ ~~Might go with Wills timer and control box.~~ Using Wills programmer box and FM-9 timer.
Prop - 13 x 4.5EP
Foam wing
Monokote finish
Trike gear
Profile design
Wing mounted gear
Be sure to click on the pictures of the drawings after they are opened to see a much clearer picture.

edited on 4-30-2011

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #1 on:** November 13, 2010, 09:33:14 PM »

I'll let the pictures do the talking:

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #2 on:** November 13, 2010, 09:37:18 PM »

The stab. I used some .007 CF on the LE and TE. The LE, TE, and tips are laminated from 3/16 sheet with 1/32 sheet in between. The 1/32 sheet is skipped where the hinges go thus creating a hinge slot. Very neat and dead center of your surface. The holes in the ribs are so the air can escape when covering the stab with Monokote.

Dennis Adamisin · « **Reply #3 on:** November 14, 2010, 07:17:31 AM »

Wow that looks GREAT. Looks like the logical progression from the "Resolve". Nice profile view, I like the trike layout too.

Jason Greer · « **Reply #4 on:** November 14, 2010, 07:44:20 AM »

Looking great Crist. Can't wait to see more. Your power system sounds perfect!

Allan Perret · « **Reply #5 on:** November 14, 2010, 08:38:00 AM »

Quote from: Crist Rigotti on November 13, 2010, 09:37:18 PM

The stab. I used some .007 CF on the LE and TE. The LE, TE, and tips are laminated from 3/16 sheet with 1/32 sheet in between. The 1/32 sheet is skipped where the hinges go thus creating a hinge slot. Very neat and dead center of your surface. The holes in the ribs are so the air can escape when covering the stab with Monokote.

That's the same way I like to build hinge pocket components. Perfect slots every time..
Last night I read the better part of the thread on the 1st Resolve (all 4 pages). And I was thinking he should have made it a little bigger, because you could still build it in the low 50's weight range with more wing area (I recently built a RingMasterDeluxe with 620 area came in around 49oz on .36 glow power). And now I see this today, and I'm thinking this might be the one that makes me take the big jump into electric c/l. So Crist, are you selling plans and/or foam wings yet ?

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #6 on:** November 14, 2010, 09:25:49 AM »

Quote from: Allan Perret on November 14, 2010, 08:38:00 AM

That's the same way I like to build hinge pocket components. Perfect slots every time..
Last night I read the better part of the thread on the 1st Resolve (all 4 pages). And I was thinking he should have made it a little bigger, because you could still build it in the low 50's weight range with more wing area (I recently built a RingMasterDeluxe with 620 area came in around 49oz on .36 glow power). And now I see this today, and I'm thinking this might be the one that makes me take the big jump into electric c/l. So Crist, are you selling plans and/or foam wings yet ?

LOL! Not quite yet. I'm hoping that it will work out well. I'm a bit on the smaller size so a "tweener" works best for me.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #7 on:** November 17, 2010, 08:45:03 PM »

More wing photos. Notice I laminated the wing TE using 3/16 balsa and 1/32 to form the hinge slots. I'm molding the LE skins over the next several days. I put 2 ink lines on the TE to guide me when I plane it down. Also I'm almost finished with the fuselage details on my CAD program. I'll post a picture of it when it's done.

Jason Greer · « **Reply #8 on:** November 18, 2010, 06:14:02 AM »

Looking great Crist. Your attention to detail is inspiring.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #9 on:** November 18, 2010, 11:13:02 AM »

The side view with details.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #10 on:** November 18, 2010, 11:51:01 AM »

Ooh -- pretty. I like the side view, and I'm impressed by your woodworking.

Why trike gear?

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #11 on:** November 18, 2010, 11:58:35 AM »

I have a Pathfinder ARF that has trike gear and I was impressed with how easy takeoffs and landings were. Or should I say how smooth the take offs were (read higher score) and how easy is was to make a no bounce landing ( read higher score)!

Allan Perret · « **Reply #12 on:** November 18, 2010, 02:55:15 PM »

I prefer the 1st one with the canopy back at the LE.
Also the rudder shape looks better on the 1st one..

What's the nose and tail moments on this one ?

Allan Perret · « **Reply #13 on:** November 19, 2010, 07:53:51 AM »

Queston about desiging a trike gear layout.
What incidence are you shooting for when sitting on the gear.
Neutral, slight positive or negative ?

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #14 on:** November 19, 2010, 08:11:18 AM »

Quote from: Allan Perret on November 19, 2010, 07:53:51 AM

Queston about desiging a trike gear layout.
What incidence are you shooting for when sitting on the gear.
Neutral, slight positive or negative ?

Neutral or slightly negative I've heard.

Leester · « **Reply #15 on:** November 20, 2010, 07:40:39 PM »

Lookin real good there Crist. Is the spar and landing gear set up on this the way you described how to do the P-63 foam wing you cut for me ?? I wonder what color scheme you've picked out

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #16 on:** November 20, 2010, 09:36:51 PM »

Quote from: Leester on November 20, 2010, 07:40:39 PM

Lookin real good there Crist. Is the spar and landing gear set up on this the way you described how to do the P-63 foam wing you cut for me ?? I wonder what color scheme you've picked out

Yes, but my LG blocks are on the front of the spar. Your P-63 the LG blocks should be on the aft side of the spar. Probably I'll change the color scheme on this one from red, white, and blue to blue, red, and white.

Leester · « **Reply #17 on:** November 21, 2010, 04:30:05 AM »

Thanks Crist, also I'm glad to hear your getting out of that same color scheme rut.

Dennis Adamisin · « **Reply #18 on:** November 21, 2010, 07:13:39 AM »

Quote from: Leester on November 21, 2010, 04:30:05 AM

Thanks Crist, also I'm glad to hear your getting out of that same color scheme rut.

Naw, Crist isn't in a "rut" he is "in the groove"!

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #19 on:** November 21, 2010, 12:24:22 PM »

Quote from: Dennis Adamisin on November 21, 2010, 07:13:39 AM

Naw, Crist isn't in a "rut" he is "in the groove"!

LOL!

Will Hinton · « **Reply #20 on:** November 21, 2010, 07:05:21 PM »

Crist,
I'll have some clear two-part left for you to use as the final coat.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #21 on:** November 21, 2010, 08:22:36 PM »

Quote from: Will Hinton on November 21, 2010, 07:05:21 PM

Crist,
I'll have some clear two-part left for you to use as the final coat.

For my handle..right?

Leester · « **Reply #22 on:** November 22, 2010, 04:15:01 AM »

Crist, Since your "In The Groove"

Don't forget to paint your handle as you paint your plane. I know you like that, then use the 2 part clear.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #23 on:** November 28, 2010, 08:33:59 PM »

OK, it's been awhile since the last build post. Here are the wings. They are sheeted, and the weight box with screw and cover installed. The tips are installed and all that has to be done to them is some final sanding, add the bellcrank with LO and pushrod and then join them. Cutting the holes in the foam is not for lightness but to allow the air to move around when I'm covering them with Monokote. BTW cutting the holes saved a total of 8 grams for the entire wing. The wings weigh 9 ounces as they sit.

Leester · « **Reply #24 on:** December 02, 2010, 04:17:50 AM »

Looks good there Crist. What was your tool of choice to cut the holes

See ya Saturday at Thunder Bay.

PerttiMe · « **Reply #25 on:** December 02, 2010, 04:36:42 AM »

On wing honeycombing:

I've understood that R/C Pattern guys who honeycomb their fully sheeted wings mainly do it to save on the glue weight.

picture stolen from:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_256678/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #26 on:** December 02, 2010, 06:53:07 AM »

Quote from: PerttiMe on December 02, 2010, 04:36:42 AM

On wing honeycombing:

I've understood that R/C Pattern guys who honeycomb their fully sheeted wings mainly do it to save on the glue weight.

picture stolen from:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_256678/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm

Kinda hard to get the leadouts through that wing! Also if you noticed that I didn't fully sheet the wing.

PerttiMe · « **Reply #27 on:** December 02, 2010, 07:00:25 AM »

Sorry, I am not suggesting you should have do it like that. Just mentioning that on a slightly related note...

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #28 on:** December 02, 2010, 08:05:53 AM »

Quote from: PerttiMe on December 02, 2010, 07:00:25 AM

Sorry, I am not suggesting you should have do it like that. Just mentioning that on a slightly related note...

OK.

Jason Greer · « **Reply #29 on:** December 02, 2010, 09:39:26 AM »

Looking great Crist!

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #30 on:** December 04, 2010, 02:59:39 PM »

I have the bellcrank and flap pushrod made and installed. Leadouts terminated, and the wing panels joined. Just some little sanding, then I'll add the 3 circles of silkspan on the top and bottom for reinforcement. Then she'll be ready to cover.

Leester · « **Reply #31 on:** December 04, 2010, 04:14:26 PM »

Make your own B/C

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #32 on:** December 04, 2010, 07:55:33 PM »

Quote from: Leester on December 04, 2010, 04:14:26 PM

Make your own B/C

Oh yeah, you can't buy that quality!

Leester · « **Reply #33 on:** December 05, 2010, 06:47:44 AM »

Quote from: Crist Rigotti on December 04, 2010, 07:55:33 PM

Oh yeah, you can't buy that quality!

Only in an old time furniture shop, right Larry

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #34 on:** December 05, 2010, 07:29:18 AM »

Quote from: Leester on December 05, 2010, 06:47:44 AM

Only in an old time furniture shop, right Larry

LOL!

Larry Lindburg · « **Reply #35 on:** December 05, 2010, 08:52:26 AM »

Our bearded crew makes only the finest picnic tables and house heaters. 'Nice plane, Crist....I like the jet styling!

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #36 on:** December 05, 2010, 06:12:41 PM »

Quote from: Leester on December 02, 2010, 04:17:50 AM

Looks good there Crist. What was your tool of choice to cut the holes See ya Saturday at Thunder Bay.

1/16 ply template with a 1 1/2 inch circle and a soldering iron.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #37 on:** December 07, 2010, 07:52:57 PM »

Here are the flaps. Made using 2 pieces of 1/8 7.5# balsa and 1 piece of 1/32 6# balsa. The 1/32 balsa is sandwiched between the 2 1/8 balsa to form the hinge slot. I notch the 1/32 where the hinges go. I use slow setting epoxy to do the laminating.

The horn clips are made from 1/8 lite-ply and aluminum tubing so that the flaps are removable. Same thing for the elevators. The flap tips along with the roots are lined with 1/16 basswood to give me a good "edge" and to strengthen both the tips and the roots.

I have them shaped but still need to round the LE and TE.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #38 on:** December 07, 2010, 08:29:44 PM »

Here is what I do to reinforce the center joint of my foam wings. I got this method from Allen Brickhaus. I use 3 circles of medium silkspan of 4, 6, and 9 inches in diameter. The 4 and 6 inch circles are centered over the bellcrank post. The 9 inch circle is positioned so that the front (LE) edge is about even with the 6 inch circle. Use 3 circles on both the top and the bottom of the wing.

I brush on 2 coats of unthinned nitrate on the bare wood. I lightly sand the wood and then apply the 4 inch circle wet and brush on with nitrate. Once dry, I brush on another coat nitrate dope. Then I sand the circle and repeat for the 6 inch circle. Do it again for the 9 inch circle. I then use 50/50 thinned nitrate for the last coat. Then I sand lightly. BTW, Monokote sticks extremely well to the doped silkspan.

Here are a few pictures and I hope they show the silkspan.

Dennis Adamisin · « **Reply #39 on:** December 08, 2010, 03:15:32 PM »

No f/g tape on the center joint???

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #40 on:** December 08, 2010, 04:44:01 PM »

No, none. It isn't needed.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #41 on:** December 09, 2010, 07:41:26 PM »

The elevators are built. The same construction as the flaps. I've included a picture of the horn clip and aluminum tubing that I use to make the elevators removable.

Allan Perret · « **Reply #42 on:** December 10, 2010, 08:21:34 AM »

Flap and elevator construction ?
Do you taper them or just round the edges ?

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #43 on:** December 10, 2010, 08:51:16 AM »

Quote from: Allan Perret on December 10, 2010, 08:21:34 AM

Flap and elevator construction ?
Do you taper them or just round the edges ?

I've done both, but usually just round the edges.

Allen Brickhaus · « **Reply #44 on:** December 24, 2010, 09:05:50 AM »

Crist,

Looks like a great plane and a possible article in some magazine.

Merry Christmas and a Wonderful New Year.

Allen Brickhaus

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #45 on:** March 01, 2011, 12:55:52 PM »

Well I shortened the nose some.

Dennis Adamisin · « **Reply #46 on:** March 01, 2011, 03:26:00 PM »

Glad to see you are back to work on it!

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #47 on:** March 02, 2011, 08:09:13 PM »

Rudder and vertical fin are built. All the pieces except the fuselage are now built. The wing needs some final sanding and the stab, flaps, elevators, fin, and rudder all need to be sanded and the edges rounded. Then I'll start to Monokote those pieces. After all that is done, then I'll start the fuselage. I finish all the other pieces first, then do a weight and balance to figure out how long the nose has to be so the airplane will balance where I want it to.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #48 on:** April 07, 2011, 09:20:17 PM »

OK. The wing, stab, flaps, and elevators are covered and the trim stripes have been added. The elevators and flaps have been hinged. Pictures tomorrow.

Started the fuselage tonight. I have the basswood engine bearers glued in and 1 side has the 1/64 ply glueing as I type.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #49 on:** April 07, 2011, 09:24:06 PM »

I also decided to go with a shorter nose and using a 6 cell battery. I'll have to use a 600KV motor to get the RPM range where it needs to be.