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Electric Stunt => Gettin all AMP'ed up! => Topic started by: petermick on March 14, 2017, 03:50:23 PM
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Last week at VSC I purchased a beautifully finished Francherized Twister from Bob Hazel. Bob had completed the model with an OS 25 mounted on it. Because I have gone over to electric flying I purchased the plane without the engine and my intention is to convert it to electric. I have never built or converted a profile. Doing a search on the All Amped Up files I found a build thread from Christ Rigotti dated 2009 which shows an aluminum profile motor mount. I believe Archie Adamisin suggested in this thread that this mount could possibly be produced for sale. I am wondering if this was ever done and if so where can it be purchased.
Christ, if this was a one only piece do you have a drawing of it.
Thanks
Peter Mick
AMA 9581
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Pete,
Don't go the aluminum mount. That was a long time ago and a 1 off.
Here is where I modified a Sig Primary Force for electric. Perhaps you can glean some good info off that.
http://stunthanger.com/smf/gettin-all-amp'ed-up!/electric-primary-force/ (http://stunthanger.com/smf/gettin-all-amp'ed-up!/electric-primary-force/)
I have done other electric profiles but I think they were electric from the get-go. I'll look and see.
http://stunthanger.com/smf/gettin-all-amp'ed-up!/2013-electric-stunter-a-build-log/msg280697/#msg280697 (http://stunthanger.com/smf/gettin-all-amp'ed-up!/2013-electric-stunter-a-build-log/msg280697/#msg280697)
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you might also contact Pat Johnston, he has been laser cutting some really cool battery holder box motor mount assemblies that work a treat
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Hi Peter
You are going to need a battery box too, I really like the idea of integrating the firewall with the battery box because supports around the perimeter and keeps battery space clear. Shown below is the Brodak BH-1938, shown installed in a Brodak Mauler Profile. Basically you build the box, cut a 1.75" x 7" slot in the fuselage and install the box. The motor and battery are also centered on the fuselage, battery installed from the INBOARD side. Not too hard a conversion even on a built bird.
Hard to beat at $7.99. Link to the item: http://brodak.com/electric-accessories-1/conversion-kits/warbird-electric-conversion.html
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Christ, Mark and Dennis,
I want to thank the three of you for your very helpful responses.
Christ, I have a few questions regarding your 2013 building thread. 1) Is the motor only mounted on the front and not supported on the rear? 2) I noticed you used a Hubin timer. Where did you mount the red start button that usually accompanies a Hubin timer? 3) Where did you mount the arming plug?
Please forgive me if I missed any of these items in your thread.
Pete
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Motorman,
I'm sure your post was very helpful, unfortunately it never showed up on the thread I started.
Pete
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Motorman,
I'm sure your post was very helpful, unfortunately it never showed up on the thread I started.
Pete
Fourth post in the thread, right after Mark's.
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Peter,
We have converted several profiles to electric using 3/8 or 1/2" angle aluminum bought from Lowe's or Home Depot. It's a rear mount set up, got the idea from Will DeMauro, he's had pics of this conversion in some of his past columns in Stunt News. I found a couple of pics. This first one is before the mounts were finished out to look nicer. The second was an old profile I picked up from Allen for Ben.
James
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Motorman
My sincerest apology for my oversight. This was a senior brain fart.
Pete
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Christ, Mark and Dennis,
I want to thank the three of you for your very helpful responses.
Christ, I have a few questions regarding your 2013 building thread. 1) Is the motor only mounted on the front and not supported on the rear? 2) I noticed you used a Hubin timer. Where did you mount the red start button that usually accompanies a Hubin timer? 3) Where did you mount the arming plug?
Please forgive me if I missed any of these items in your thread.
Pete
Pete:
1) Yes, front mounted only.
2) The Hubin timer (FM9 IIRC) I used has the start button on the timer. It is not separate from the timer.
3) No arming plug needed. I simply disconnect the battery from the ESC. Everything is out in the open.
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Christ,
Thanks for your info.
Pete
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Christ,
Thanks for your info.
Pete
Say Hi to all for me.