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Electric Stunt => Gettin all AMP'ed up! => Topic started by: Dane Martin on December 26, 2015, 11:09:25 AM
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I'm having a hard time understanding the ready set power systems for a .15 sized airplane. It seems the 3s 2200 is a common battery size for a .15? That sounds pretty big to me. An average 3s 2200 is around 6.5 oz, whereas a fox 15x is 3.5oz. Then you have a motor, esc and timer? Even a fox 35 is only 7oz. Am i missing something? Please help.
I want to make an akromaster with lights in the wings. It's getting dark early! Thanks guys
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Hi Dane,
Have a look at what I posted here: http://stunthanger.com/smf/gettin-all-amp'ed-up!/good-replacement-for-a-15-glow-engine/msg394946/
I've done a lot of work on replacing a .15 size engine with e-power. I compared the performance to a twin ball-race MVVS glow .15 and that is a pretty good little engine of medium to high performance. I was aiming at enough time for our novice stunt pattern, so I only needed a 3S 1300 battery. I would say that an 1800mAh lipo would be fine for a full pattern. Remember that a full pattern can be flown in around 5 minutes.
Keith R
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I'm not an expert on electric set ups but most of my models fly with relatively small motors for the size of the model. The Acromaster will fly well with a Norvel 074 so why would you even consider using an E flite 15 or equivalent motor. It's too much for that aircraft. Think smaller. the motor designation is grossly misleading about its potential. It is more potent than an equivalent sport 15 glow as far as it's ability to develop power or turn a larger or higher pitched prop.
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As a point of comparison: my "enhanced" Nobler ARF had an LA 46 for the first season. Nice power, for sure. Then, I converted it to electric. E-Flight Power 15. After 4 more seasons of many flights in all conditions, I'll venture to say it has the equal; if not more power. I've also seen a Power 10 in a Gieseke Nobler ARF fly very well.
I'm not familiar with your ship, but set your sites to a smaller motor ,maybe a 400 series if you go electric.
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I'm having a hard time understanding the ready set power systems for a .15 sized airplane. It seems the 3s 2200 is a common battery size for a .15? That sounds pretty big to me. An average 3s 2200 is around 6.5 oz, whereas a fox 15x is 3.5oz. Then you have a motor, esc and timer? Even a fox 35 is only 7oz. Am i missing something? Please help.
I want to make an akromaster with lights in the wings. It's getting dark early! Thanks guys
You are right, weight is everything in this size range!
I fly a 1/2A Pathfinder & a Wee Duper Zilch with 3Sx1300 packs, using about 1000mah. These airplanes are the same size as the Akro, and both are outstanding flyers. The PF finished off at 15 oz, the WDZ at 13 oz which is also a good target weight for the Akro. Both of these are excellent stunt models. I demo'd then passed around the PF at the Brodak Fly-In a few years ago and people really enjoyed it. It is amazing how deep you can go into a corner with a 15oz airplane! The WDZ is OTS legal but I only fly modern patterns with it - seems a shame to hold it back to the Old Time Pattern. Using .012 x 50' lines (eye to eye), but will soon be flying on Spiderwire which should be just a smidgen better:
Prop: APC 7x5EP
Motor: Arrowind 2210 kv=1560
ESC : Arrowind 18A
Pack: 3Sx1300
Timer: Hubin FM-0c
BTW, the Arrowind motor sizes are based on internal dimensions (like AXI Cobra or Scorpion) If you use a Turnigy (outside dimensions) then the equivalent size would be about a 28-28 or so. Also key is that the kv be at least 1500 - need to spin it up.
On birds this size the enemy is WEIGHT! Andy Borgogna built a PF using this power system (I think he changed the motor out later on) and reported here on SH that he was able to save around 1 oz by eliminating the bullet connectors, shortening the wires and soldering the motor wires directly to the ESC. I did not do this but if I ever got around to a re-build I probably would. BTW Andy also use the KR timer system.
There is probably a lighter battery connection than the Deans Ultra plugs too but these are handy (to me) for other reasons. Should also mention that these are a few years old & Lipo technology has progress. I'd bet you could find either lighter 1300's or the similar size/weight packs at 1500 mah or so.
For a hotter set-up, I also have a Jr Flite Streak that I "motored up" to use an 8x6EP prop and 3Sx1800. It really scoots on .012 x 50' lines - like a Flite Streak should! This one is 15.8oz. Several folks flew this at the 2014 Brodak Fly-in and it produced instant smiles...
Prop: APC 8x6EP
Motor: Arrowind 2215 kv=1180
ESC : Arrowind 18A
Pack: 3Sx1800
Timer: Hubin FM-0c
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I'm not an electric expert either, but i would definitely not use an eflite 15 on this tiny plane! Lol i use that on a 100" glider and it's got plenty of climb.
Dennis, i get what you're saying there. But as far as weight, i planned on using the same set up as my super clown arf. Eflite 480 and a 30a esc. I think thats a 30mm motor. Too big?? With a 1300 pack, i got like 4 min. The akromaster is smaller than the clown i think. I've only built one before.
Does brodak make a motor mount conversion set for these smaller planes?? ;D
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I'm not an electric expert either, but i would definitely not use an eflite 15 on this tiny plane!
If you have an eFlight "X" motor, then they don't mean "this motor will replace a 50 year old "X" engine on 5% nitro". They mean "this motor will replace the hottest "X" engine you can buy, running on 35% nitro or more".
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If you have an eFlight "X" motor, then they don't mean "this motor will replace a 50 year old "X" engine on 5% nitro". They mean "this motor will replace the hottest "X" engine you can buy, running on 35% nitro or more".
I have always respected your opinion and agreed with mostly everything you say, but in this case, i have always disagreed with what the electric motor manufactures have stated thier motor equivalents are. For example, i have used the power 60 several times. I like the motor, good quality, but it spins a 16-18 inch prop. There's no .60 glo engine i know of that does that. So to me, i would not advertise that to replace a .60. It's just really misleading i think.
But i totally understand what you're saying Tim. It's like the baddest engine you could buy in that size.
Maybe what I'll do is build it, install the led light strips inside the wing and weigh what i have going on to make a good judgment?
Thanks everyone for the replies
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Keith, excellent info there! In fact, I'm thinking that and what Dennis said proves i need to be thinking smaller. Dennis is right, an 074 would fly this thing. Maybe like Frank and Denny said, look into more of the 1/2a - .09 type power.
Excellent info everyone!
I'm thinking in the 2215 size. I'll see what brodak has. I love arrowind products. Already got plenty of timers and esc's
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Hi Dane, Dennis has done more research and actual flight testing of all power systems for stunt than most of us here on this forum. Therefore his systems work! My .15 concept was trying to find an electric power package to replace a .15 engine than has a slightly better performance than the old Fox or other plain bearing .15's. I strongly believe that a .15 size stunter is a great way for beginners to get into stunt. It's not too small and not too big even for small kids to fly. In the same manner, the .09 size is just much nicer to fly than the .049, or Babe Bee size model.
Here in South Africa, I have had a fair amount of success with beginners in our Novice stunt event and the entire pattern takes only 3 minutes to fly, so I figured that I could get away with 3S 1300 batteries which are readily available here. I did try the same motor as Dennis suggests for his Jnr. Flite Streak but it would simply not get to the required rpm to keep up with the MVVS. I had to find a motor with at least 1350 to 1400 Kv. The other point which I feel is important, is that in governed mode, you have to leave some headroom so you don't get to the same initial rpm as you would with a straight simple timer system with no governor. After a short while however, setting that high rpm up front leaves no headroom for later so the rpm will slow down. Of course the simple timers like The JMP and others do add rpm with time, so it "sort-of" compensates, but then you can actually feel it slow down in climbs and speed up in dives, so a governor system does in fact fly better even on the 1/2A stuff. If that does not bother you, then the simple timer can work for sure.
Keith R
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Outstanding Keith. Thank you for your help. I think i can get away with a little less power than the plane shown in your thread. It looks like yours is a little bigger physically than the akromaster?
My goal is to practise the pattern at night. Plus, if I'm wrong and it's not enough power, or flight time or whatever, my daughter will take it and fly it anyway! Putting the lights inside and having an electric plane is the main focus. If it can complete the pattern, bonus!
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Yes, my model is quite a bit bigger than the Akromaster, and we mostly fly up here near Johannesburg at close to 6000 ft. ASL so we need some more rpm. Once you're done with this project please post the results with some pics of how you did the lights. It will also be interesting to see how much extra power the lights use. Thanks.
One of our C/L guys lives on a farm and flies a lot at night on a grass circle in front of his house. He put a spotlight on the roof and added some reflective tape on the inside of the nose, wing tip and rudder fin. That works well for him.
Keith R
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Sorry for the delay, wanted to get back with specifics. This all goes back to your original thoughts about the weight of the system. In my first reply I reference my 1/2A Pathfinder being similar sized to the Akro. Here's a tale of the tape:
Akromaster 1/2A Pathfinder
Span 34" 35"
Area 250 in2 236 in2
Fuse length 20.5" 23"
(nose to rudder post)
Recommended Engines 15-25 .049-.07
Not much difference in structural weights, the Akro uses a "log" LE & TE but it also uses a 2-wheel gear. My read is that these two are pretty much the same except for the engine recommendation. Now if I was out to replace a 25 I would be looking at something that would turn a 9" prop and probably use something like a 3Sx2200 (or 4Sx1800) pack. However if I was looking to replace a .049 - .07 then I would size the power system to drive a 6"-7" prop.
The difference in perception yields huge differences in weight! In your original post you mentioned that a 3Sx2200 pack would weigh about 6.5 oz. The complete power system I described weighs 7.1 oz.
Keith R made a very pertinent point about flying at altitude. Out there in "Lost Wages" my GUESS is that you will have to tip the nitro uhh, I mean turn the RPM up some to compensate. While that normally increases battery drain you are really only restoring lift & drag to levels comparable to what I see here in FTW - I think you would still be OK.
I also fly the PF at about 4.3 sec lap times and it is timed to fly the pattern with a few laps left over. That should work for the Akro too but if you were seeking to fly faster then you might want to look at a little more battery then the 1300.
BTW I designed a conversion kit for this size power system & profiles - see Brodak #BH-1935. It should work well for the Akro and maybe save you a little fabricating time...
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Ok, thank you very much Denny. I am ordering the eMotor mount set of that part number. I'm really leaning towards the 2215 just because of the idea of weight. I do believe my SIG kit wood is going to come out heavier than your path finder. I think you've seen a few of my Monokote ringmasters, and know i build pretty light, but I'm just building a box stock kit. Thank you for the part numbers.I'll be placing the order today
I think based on this discussion, I'm shooting for the .09 type power on this project
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Ok, thank you very much Denny. I am ordering the eMotor mount set of that part number. I'm really leaning towards the 2215 just because of the idea of weight. I do believe my SIG kit wood is going to come out heavier than your path finder. I think you've seen a few of my Monokote ringmasters, and know i build pretty light, but I'm just building a box stock kit. Thank you for the part numbers.I'll be placing the order today
I think based on this discussion, I'm shooting for the .09 type power on this project
Not a bad plan at all! The 2215 will actually turn an 8x6 if you want to go that far - of course that may push you into the 3Sx1800 pack.
I have an Akro started also (since 3 years ago!) but mine has all really good wood. The log LE & TE are pretty good and the fuselage is weightless! I am planning on the same set-up as the PF and am optimistic about achieving a similar weight.
BTW, one thing the PF has that the Akro does not: the PF is designed to use a 3" bellcrank, the Akro is designed to use a 2". It really improves the control system if you can use the larger crank, but you have to open up the ribs to make that possible.
Yes I have admired your fabulous Ringmaster builds & 'coting methodology. What covering will you use on the Akro to keep it light and electron-proof?
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To keep those pesky electrons from sticking to the wing, I'll be using transparent white ultracote lite. That way the lights inside the wing shine through. Monokote covered fuse, but the color will have to be a surprise for both of us... Lol.
Thanks for the heads up on the BC. Here's what i did on an RM to make clearance. Because i had to hog out a lot of rib, i bridged not only 1and 2, but 2 and 3 as well.
I'll open the kit tonight and start checking weights. I might be surprised!
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Wow, NICE job on the double bellcrank - a Ringer never had it so good!
What will the lites in the Akro weigh? Sounds more & more like a little power up may be a plan. Also check out the Akro plan, the instructions call on cutting the LE & TE to length, but if you leave them full you can gain another 1.5" or so of extra wing span & area for negligible weight gain- might come in handy
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Good call on increasing some wing squares. I can not find my scale. We've moved three times this past year so my stuff is just... Wherever! Lol
However from experience with these strip leds, they are extremely light. Plus I'm only using a few. If i can find my scale, I'll post the actual weights. Hopefully it'll only add about 10grams
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Right on right on!!
Got my order in from brodak. The new motor mount conversion set up and arrow wind motor. I'm pretty excited! This should be wicked fun!
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Ok, thank you very much Denny. I am ordering the eMotor mount set of that part number. I'm really leaning towards the 2215 just because of the idea of weight. I do believe my SIG kit wood is going to come out heavier than your path finder. I think you've seen a few of my Monokote ringmasters, and know i build pretty light, but I'm just building a box stock kit. Thank you for the part numbers.I'll be placing the order today
I think based on this discussion, I'm shooting for the .09 type power on this project
I've built a few Akromasters and they fly fairly well at 18.5-19 Oz. Much more than that and you can't get the pattern out at sea level.
I think the best .15 sized trainer is the (Profile) Peacemaker, sort of a 3/4 sized Flight Streak. To me, it's the best .15 sized model around.
Rex
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Thank you rex, very cool planes. This will be my second Akromaster. The first was not a great build... I'll admit that! Lol
I like the peacemaker. It's on my bucket list. My friend George built one, and i really liked it. But I've never flown one.
This is my third attempt at electric. The first didn't work out too good.... Lol
https://youtu.be/la-wqN4KFzg
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Subscribed.
No pressure Dane, but this plane had better fly better than that RM! <=
Vr,
Chris
HNY.
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No promises Chris, but at least it will look pretty!! lol
Heres a quick video clip of prepping the akromaster for the Brodak EPS-10 system conversion
https://youtu.be/9eb-l16xJYU
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Installing the E-box into the fuse....
https://youtu.be/DabktJrGn_0
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I guess this could turn into somewhat of a build thread. Mostly just to keep me on track and hurry up! Lol.
So the wing came out with an additional inch on each side. So 2 inch more wingspan. Thanks Denny. Unfortunately, i did something wrong or don't understand something... I ended up having to make two more ribs for the wing tips. It shows 13 on the plans, but i ended up needing 15. They are however, evenly spaced.
Pic one shows the notches that were there, and i just notched the end on the scroll saw
Pic two is just rib spacing.
Pic three is the sheeting almost done. Gotta cut the push rod exit
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Die cut kits take A LOT of sanding! I kinda finished the wing and sanded it. I rounded the fuse and sanded it. Here's some progress pics and a fuse Monokote video is loading.
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Heres a quick video on monokote covering the little akromaster fuse.
https://youtu.be/hu_qKXn87lI
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Ok, both sides of the fuse are covered and the glue on the battery box is drying while being clamped in place. I am hoping to get the wing glued in so i can start covering the wing. The "flaps" can't be installed until the wing is installed.
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I got the wing in, and the flaps on / extended. The box says 34" wing, i ended up at 38.5"
The wiring for the lights is almost done. I couldn't find red for my nav lights so pink was close enough.
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I like the high AR wing, it should turn well.
R,
Chris, who was happy to fly the Oriental today.
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Thanks for keeping us informed. Keep going!
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Thanks guys! I hope you're right Chris. I'm hoping this does the pattern well. The lights are just fun... Lol
Not much done today. I got the lights done though.
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I spent a little time truing up the elevator halves after joining them. Took some slight shimming, trimming and sanding. Then i rounded the corners and tapered the elevators. Just for aesthetics.
I think i want to cut down the fin and rudder a little, just for looks also
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Tail surfaces are covered. I'm just doing everything white, and then I'll add trim. I just want to get this done and flying. What used to take a day or two, now takes weeks with kids... Lol!
I'm sure anyone who knows me could have guessed... Monokote hinges. White on white, i covered the surfaces first, then just applied the hinges. Its easier than my normal method. I don't know if I'm going to say faster, because I'm using 30 hinges... I know. A little much. But it's gapless and looks cool
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A little at a time. It's surprising how little time can be dedicated to building a kit, but it still progresses. The kids aren't interested in building every day, so 15 to 30 mins is about all i get! Lol
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I got the rudder and fin on today. So far, I'm feeling the cg is gonna be fly-able with no weight needed for the maiden. I'm building this box stock, but i will make a CF push rod. Last one i had, the insides and outsides were different because of push rod flex.
The canopy is just sitting there to see where i like it...
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Getting there!
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I like the lights Dane, and I'm watching to see how this battery box works out. I need to build another Akromaster, my last was electric, but I butchered it when I changed the motor/motor mount. I put lights in my for a night fly we had at our club field. I'll try to find a picture.
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I finally took a look at this thread. I am amazed at what you are doing to the little bird. Need to get my daughters plane off the hook and clean it up. By the way this old man says there is never enough hinges, I even put in extra DuBro hinges, especially a second one out on the ends of the flaps.
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Thanks guys. I'll be alone tonight! That means this thing will get done. Just gotta cover the wings and hook up the remainder of the electronics. Like i said, the cg seems really good as a starting point. I just used the lead out positioning on the kit. It's stamped into the wing tip. I don't remember having any issues with that before.
Duke, do you fly free flight? Was that you i saw in the ama mag? I always flip to the back to check for control line and FF articles.
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Everything is looking real good Dane. I have been using the over/under hinges too and really like them. I usually make them 1" wide and use them full span until I run out of surface. Happy the CG is looking good too.
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Thanks Dennis. So, i ran out of my transparent white. I got one wing side down, top and bottom. So I'll be making a trip to the hobby shop in hopes that they will have more. It's a little bland all white. I believe i have a lead on lettering and graphics... And I'll add some pinstriping around certain areas.
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Ok, wings and fuse done. It took a little longer to order in the transparent white. I ordered some lettering and graphics from cfc graphics. Thanks Charles. As soon as those come in, I'll plaster them on.
Here's the lights done. Looks neat through the transparent white. Not much work left. Just some finish up and the bench trimming.
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Wow, cool! Night video is a must.
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I want to SEE a night flight.
(Road trip to Vegas this spring!)
Looks great, Dane. No pun intended (mostly).
Br,
Chris
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The trans-white is a perfect touch for diffusing the lights - what a great effect. CFC Graphics are top notch - this is going to be a lot of fun...
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Thanks guys. I'll be alone tonight! That means this thing will get done. Just gotta cover the wings and hook up the remainder of the electronics. Like i said, the cg seems really good as a starting point. I just used the lead out positioning on the kit. It's stamped into the wing tip. I don't remember having any issues with that before.
Duke, do you fly free flight? Was that you i saw in the ama mag? I always flip to the back to check for control line and FF articles.
Hey Dane
Yes that was me in the back of the AMA, if you have the E-version you can see the launch video. Chuck showed up to the contest in Oregon and I spend the last day with him on the flight line.
The plane looks Great!
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Wow, thanks guys!
Chris, when you come out, let me know ahead of time. I'll see what we can do about rooms.
Duke, Joey Mathison wants me to come to Oregon for the regionals. I'm really trying to this year. We compete in cl speed together.
I got the esc connections and lights soldered and now I'm just mounting / cleaning up wiring details.
Details as of now,
Arrowind 2210/25 motor
Arrowind 18a esc
Hubin FM-0c timer
Hobby people 1300 3s battery
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Well, unfortunate news. We tried to fly the little Akromaster tonight. The bell crank actually broke in half pretty quick. I've never seen this happen. My last akromaster was built with the box hardware. I flew it many many times and ended up giving it away. So the repairs are almost done. At least it looked cool for a few seconds...
https://youtu.be/RpqW7LvUuQA
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The lead outs pulled through the ribs. Ouch!
I cut the covering off the top and cut away the sheeting over the bellcrank.
Pic 2 shows the bolt and bearing still in tact. I'm not sure how the bellcrank can just split in half like that. Oh well, the airplane was not damaged other than this. I'll be installing the SIG 3 inch bellcrank this time.
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I made short work of the shattered ribs. Looks back to normal. Bellcrank and lead outs will be installed tomorrow. Then a quick job recovering that wing section. I'll need to make another push rod. But i got plenty of carbon fiber tube for that.
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Bummer! Looks like you're on your way to fixing though.
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Well that sucks, but at least it's an easy fix, and not before you really started to love it!
And, the first flight a night flight, that's awesome!
R,
Chris
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Thanks guys. It sucked, the take off felt great, power was up there. I should have taken pictures of the wing and bell crank before i pulled it apart, but i was all miffed about the incident. I just quickly pulled it apart.
I thought the mounting bolt failed. But as you can see, that was nicely mounted and stayed put. The bell crank split in two right at the bearing hole.
The plane "landed" on the wheels. The only damage was the lead outs being pulled through the ribs. Crazy!
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Got the graphics in from CFC. RIP Mike. Thanks for all the help you we're willing to give a complete stranger. We were only forum buddies, but your emails and pictures and trimming advice got me really far.
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#^
H^^
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I decided to just finish the wing tonight. Not enough work to justify putting it off longer... Lol
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CFC Graphics are GREAT. You have a very good tribute to our friend Mike...
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Thanks Dennis. However, as it turns out, i still can't figure out how to get this to fly. I have a video, but it's really no help. Very dark outside last night. I took off, got almost a half a lap and it flew in on me so fast, i couldn't back up fast enough to keep line tension. So yet again, it's crashed. I'm getting frustrated in that my other planes fly great. I've built an IC powered akromaster before and it flew great (ugly, but flew great). So I'm just not understanding what I'm doing wrong. I'm using the same cg position, the same lead out position, same tip weight.
I'm almost finished putting it back together. I'll hang test it exactly where everything was before any changes. Maybe i need to scoot the forward line back a little....
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Dane,
Please check for any warps. Bummer.
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Dane,
Please check for any warps. Bummer.
Thanks bro. That is what it felt like. Like it was rolling in and that's what was losing the tension. I really want this to work for many reasons. But now it might be a pride thing... Lol
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Do you have any tip weight? If so, how much?
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Just a suggestion, at this point I'd be flying it in daylight hours until it's dialed in. After that, let the night missions begin!
Best of luck, third time is the charm!
R,
Target
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I took off, got almost a half a lap and it flew in on me so fast, i couldn't back up fast enough to keep line tension.
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I'm using the same cg position, the same lead out position, same tip weight.
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Dane:
First, check for warps.
Second, instead of having an engine and fuel tank hanging off of the outside edge of the fuselage, you have a bunch of electronics centered on the fuselage. Think about that for a second, and then think about "same tip weight".
You ought to be able to manage level flight OK with inadequate tip weight, and even with some wing warp, so I'm a bit confused as to what's going on. I think that if I didn't find some pretty dramatic warping in the wing I'd put on Way Too Much tip weight and then back off from there.
Good luck.
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Thanks guys. Tim and Christ, i guess what your saying about tip weight makes lots of sense. The instructions call for .5oz. So that's all i did. However, when this thing was designed there was no thought of electric systems. So maybe the instructions were not the best to follow in that regard.
I'll hang it like Clancy Arnold wrote up in CLW. Sometimes the simplest things are over looked....
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Just a suggestion, at this point I'd be flying it in daylight hours until it's dialed in. After that, let the night missions begin!
Best of luck, third time is the charm!
R,
Target
Oh, and Chris, i like to live dangerously! Lol! but the reason for the lights is cuz i never get time to fly. But yes i like what your saying
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I did not see - what size & length lines are you using?
Warps & tip weight sound like likely causes. The warps part incudes double confirming that the flaps were glued on straight, if not they make really big (out of ) trim tabs!
Like Tim said the necessary tip weight will be greater with an electric because there is no engine & tank hanging off the side of the fuse. Can you weigh the outboard wing tip? Put the bird upside down, resting on the top of the fin, use a box or something similar to hold the nose up so the (inverted) fuselage is approximately level. Presumably the outboard tip will drop - however put a scale under the outboard tip (prop it up so it is roughly at the level of the wing) I'd suggest overkill for starters, add weight until the tip weighs 1 oz. If that is too much you can remove it after you get a few flights on it.
About the CG: you said you have it at the same spot as the IC version, but the IC airplane gets more nose heavy with a full tank of fuel, so the electric should be balanced further forward than the IC. Move the CG forward at least 1/4" to 1/2" CG would not by itself make it turn in, but CG & leadout position work together.
After the first crash, did you check to see if the elevator was damaged? Trying to remember, doesn't the Akro have the two halves of the elevator joined by a wood stub? If so, if you applied UP elevator and if only the inboard side moved it could cause a roll-in.
Next up would be to try a pusher prop, to get the torque working for you.
Don't give up - success is in sight!
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I don't remember if i mentioned, lines are 52' 012s.
I double checked the elevators for any damage, excellent condition. I'm checking for warps, none found, but i did just rebuild the wing. After covering I'll check again. I'll change the tail wheel and bracket. Move the cg forward with that. Hanging it shows the nose angle down, like other known good flying planes. I'm thinking lead out position is ok.
Almost done. Just gotta finish the covering
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UPDATE! Ha, i feel like Robert Stack saying that out loud at home!
Here's a video of successfully flying the Elektromaster. Proof that it does indeed fly. This video was shot today. There's a warp in the wing in this video. The outboard wing was low upright, And high inverted. So line tension inverted sucked. I only did lazy 8's to play it safe. Plus it was pretty windy today. But i just wanted this to fly, so i did it any way!
https://youtu.be/Qu2WYBwocLc
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Way to go!
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Finally, right? Lol
Ok. So as was suggested to test fly it in the day time probably would have been a good idea.
A big issue was in fact, tip weight. After i got the warp out, the wing was high upright or inverted. Easy fix.
However, the biggest issue was no power! It didn't have enough pull to stay out on 52' lines. Again, my fault. I started with a 6x3 gws prop. Bad idea. Moved up to a 7x3.5 in this video. Also i realized the timer rpm setting was down. Again, a gws prop. They are very flimsy, and probably a bad choice for this plane. I'll switch to the APC 7x5e.
Thanks for all the help gents!