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Author Topic: Power for "Ruffy" or "Stuka Stunter"?  (Read 3419 times)

Offline Charles Hofacker

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Power for "Ruffy" or "Stuka Stunter"?
« on: June 23, 2015, 07:55:39 AM »
Would the power system out of a Brodak Super Clown (BH1850 motor and BH1846 11.1V battery) be enough power to fly a Ruffy (Wing Span: 50" Length: 34 1/4" Area: 545 sq. in) or a Stuka Stunter (Wing Span 47-1/4" Area 479 Sq. In.)?  The clown is Wing Span: 38 in. Plane Length: 24 in. Wing Area: 355 sq. in. so it is a good bit smaller but I've dialed the power/throttle back a bit to slow the plane down a bit. Brodak advertising says the BH1850 is equivalent to a .19 to .35 engine.

Offline John Cralley

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Re: Power for "Ruffy" or "Stuka Stunter"?
« Reply #1 on: June 23, 2015, 11:32:39 AM »
No you want a more powerful setup for those models. Most are using motors with a KV around 900 and a 4S battery (or even lower KV and 5S battery) for them size models. I think Brodak has a package that will be good and also RSM. Both Dennis Adamisin (Brodak) and Eric Rule (RSM) are members here.You could PM them and find out what you need (if they don't post to this thread).
John Cralley
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Offline eric rule

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Re: Power for "Ruffy" or "Stuka Stunter"?
« Reply #2 on: June 24, 2015, 11:22:20 AM »
Charles, for something of that size you should consider motor power in the 475 - 575 watt range. I have no idea of the specifications on the Brodak motor so I can not comment on the power of it. You should check this out and decide if it will provide sufficient power to drive the larger model.

As far as using a 3Sor 4S battery you have to know what the kv rating is for the motor you will be using. If your motor has a kv rating in the 900 range you will require a 4S battery in order to have enough "head room" above your rpm setting. As long as your motor has a kv rating in the 1150 range a 3S battery is fine. Since the RSM 35-40 power system's motor has a kv of 1150 we specify a 3300 MaH 3S battery. This will leave you with 25-30% in the battery after your 5-1/2 minute flight so battery life will be good and long.

Hope this is of help.

Online Dennis Adamisin

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Re: Power for "Ruffy" or "Stuka Stunter"?
« Reply #3 on: June 24, 2015, 08:07:48 PM »
Hi Charles
My first electric stunter used the Super Clown motor and pack you mentioned in an Oriental - which is slightly larger than the Ruffy.  Since then I developed systems using 4 cells for applications in that size range.  The principal advantages for the 4 cell systems were the batteries were quite a bit shorter and a little lighter.  When I designed the electric conversion for the Brodak Stuka I also specified a slightly smaller (lighter) motor
Denny Adamisin
Fort Wayne, IN

As I've grown older, I've learned that pleasing everyone is impossible, but pissing everyone off is a piece of cake!

Offline Charles Hofacker

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Re: Power for "Ruffy" or "Stuka Stunter"?
« Reply #4 on: June 25, 2015, 09:21:12 AM »
Charles, for something of that size you should consider motor power in the 475 - 575 watt range. I have no idea of the specifications on the Brodak motor so I can not comment on the power of it. You should check this out and decide if it will provide sufficient power to drive the larger model.

As far as using a 3Sor 4S battery you have to know what the kv rating is for the motor you will be using. If your motor has a kv rating in the 900 range you will require a 4S battery in order to have enough "head room" above your rpm setting. As long as your motor has a kv rating in the 1150 range a 3S battery is fine. Since the RSM 35-40 power system's motor has a kv of 1150 we specify a 3300 MaH 3S battery. This will leave you with 25-30% in the battery after your 5-1/2 minute flight so battery life will be good and long.

Hope this is of help.

Thanks! This is a great help. The motor from the Super clown has a KV of 1500 and a max current of 35A. On the Clown it was turning a 9-4.5 prop. My other option at this time is a motor with a KV of 920 and a max current of 31A. It is a "rear mount" so would be easier to install.  I have no idea where to start for a prop for it. And I would need to buy 4s battery packs. $$$. There is no cheap way to get into this, or slowly upgrade: A larger motor requires appropriate batteries, ESC, charger, etc., etc.  HB~>
« Last Edit: June 25, 2015, 11:34:22 AM by Charles Hofacker »

Offline Jeff Traxler

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Re: Power for "Ruffy" or "Stuka Stunter"?
« Reply #5 on: June 25, 2015, 11:54:06 AM »
Hi Charles,
    I have what I call my CHAS(Cheap A$$ Setup)in an ARF Nobler and it works reliably over and over.I use a Turnigy 3542 1000Kv motor,Hobby King 40amp ESC,Hubin FM-0c timer and 2700mah Turnigy Nano-Tech batteries.The prop I have went to is an APC 10X5EP.This system has gobs of power to spare so it should work fine in either of those ships.If you want to get started in E-power and not spend a bunch of money this might be for you.Trax
If you wanna sing the blues(Fly Stunt) you gotta pay your dues and "I know it don't come easy"

Offline Charles Hofacker

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Re: Power for "Ruffy" or "Stuka Stunter"?
« Reply #6 on: June 26, 2015, 09:18:55 AM »
Hi Charles
My first electric stunter used the Super Clown motor and pack you mentioned in an Oriental - which is slightly larger than the Ruffy.  Since then I developed systems using 4 cells for applications in that size range.  The principal advantages for the 4 cell systems were the batteries were quite a bit shorter and a little lighter.  When I designed the electric conversion for the Brodak Stuka I also specified a slightly smaller (lighter) motor

What prop were you using on the Super Clown motor and  pack (3S I assume)? Can you give me some more details of that installation, the four cell system you used for the Oriental, and the system you designed for the Brodak Stuka?
Thanks!

Offline Charles Hofacker

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Re: Power for "Ruffy" or "Stuka Stunter"?
« Reply #7 on: June 26, 2015, 07:48:47 PM »
OK! I just found the thread "SHOCKING the Oriental" that answers my questions about the work you did with the Brodak Super Clown system.
Thanks again.

Online Dennis Adamisin

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Re: Power for "Ruffy" or "Stuka Stunter"?
« Reply #8 on: June 27, 2015, 06:26:21 AM »
Charles:
The Super Clown motor will handle an APC 10x5 nicely.  Don Still flew his Stukas with  Fox 25 on a 9x4 prop, but most folks I've seen use 10" prop. 

I designed a conversion kit (BH-1949) for the Brodak Stuka to convert it to electric.  The other day I installed a Super Clown battery in it - it fits.  The conversion suggests the Brodak Arrowind 2810 motor and a 4Sx2250 pack.  That combo is 1 ounce lighter than the Super Clown Motor & 3Sx3300 pack.  However if you got to the 3S system you MIGHT be able to downsize the battery to a 3Sx2800 with a tidy weight save and better pack size.  That depends on the airplane being light and optimizing flight time & RPM.

There is also a Universal "A" Electric conversion (#BH-1943) designed for fuselages that measure 2" wide inside dimension.  That should work for the Ruffy.  If it were me I would also build a sub-spare into the Ruffy wing so I could notch out the leading edge about 1" so I could have room to move the battery aft.
Denny Adamisin
Fort Wayne, IN

As I've grown older, I've learned that pleasing everyone is impossible, but pissing everyone off is a piece of cake!

Offline Charles Hofacker

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Re: Power for "Ruffy" or "Stuka Stunter"?
« Reply #9 on: June 27, 2015, 08:47:53 AM »
Charles:
The Super Clown motor will handle an APC 10x5 nicely.  Don Still flew his Stukas with  Fox 25 on a 9x4 prop, but most folks I've seen use 10" prop. 

I designed a conversion kit (BH-1949) for the Brodak Stuka to convert it to electric.  The other day I installed a Super Clown battery in it - it fits.  The conversion suggests the Brodak Arrowind 2810 motor and a 4Sx2250 pack.  That combo is 1 ounce lighter than the Super Clown Motor & 3Sx3300 pack.  However if you got to the 3S system you MIGHT be able to downsize the battery to a 3Sx2800 with a tidy weight save and better pack size.  That depends on the airplane being light and optimizing flight time & RPM.

There is also a Universal "A" Electric conversion (#BH-1943) designed for fuselages that measure 2" wide inside dimension.  That should work for the Ruffy.  If it were me I would also build a sub-spare into the Ruffy wing so I could notch out the leading edge about 1" so I could have room to move the battery aft.

Thanks! This is great info. I was scratching my head a bit about the details of the installation. I'll be charging ahead... 

Offline bruce finley

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Re: Power for "Ruffy" or "Stuka Stunter"?
« Reply #10 on: June 29, 2015, 07:17:00 AM »
Hi Charles,
    I have what I call my CHAS(Cheap A$$ Setup)in an ARF Nobler and it works reliably over and over.I use a Turnigy 3542 1000Kv motor,Hobby King 40amp ESC,Hubin FM-0c timer and 2700mah Turnigy Nano-Tech batteries.The prop I have went to is an APC 10X5EP.This system has gobs of power to spare so it should work fine in either of those ships.If you want to get started in E-power and not spend a bunch of money this might be for you.Trax

Thanks for posting, good info D>K

Online Dennis Adamisin

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Re: Power for "Ruffy" or "Stuka Stunter"?
« Reply #11 on: June 29, 2015, 07:28:35 AM »
Hi Charles,
    I have what I call my CHAS(Cheap A$$ Setup)in an ARF Nobler and it works reliably over and over.I use a Turnigy 3542 1000Kv motor,Hobby King 40amp ESC,Hubin FM-0c timer and 2700mah Turnigy Nano-Tech batteries.The prop I have went to is an APC 10X5EP.This system has gobs of power to spare so it should work fine in either of those ships.If you want to get started in E-power and not spend a bunch of money this might be for you.Trax

Trax had his Nobler at the Brodak Fly-In a couple weeks ago where he and it did very well.  I will vouch that his set-up WORKS!  My concern would be for the Stuka where you have to channel ALL your efforts to go LIGHT.  I think  the next size smaller Turnigy 35-36 &  4Sx2200 would still do the deed, and save some weight out of the nose...

Denny Adamisin
Fort Wayne, IN

As I've grown older, I've learned that pleasing everyone is impossible, but pissing everyone off is a piece of cake!

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