Author Topic: Pictures of your arming switch/safety switch and connections Please! (Read 1901 times)

Walter Hicks · « **on:** February 21, 2010, 06:57:20 PM »

I think I understand most of what is needed for Electric. In my attempts to locate an arming switch/safety switch, both hobby shops I go to looked at me like I was crazy. I found where to purchase a Maxx products arming switch
# 6970, and I found one picture of one Dean Pappas posted several years ago on this forum. I went to Radio Shack and purchased two items ( micro mini toggle switch) and Submini slide switch. I am not sure if they will work it says Contacts rated 3A at 125VAC on both. The Maxx products will work for sure but seems bulkly ? Would some of you please post PICTURES of your set up. I am a visual person and can understand the picture ... thanks

William DeMauro · « **Reply #1 on:** February 21, 2010, 07:48:30 PM »

In my SV 11 thread http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=11132.0;all (post 42) are a few pictures of how I did it. I am doing a slight variation on my T Rex but it will still be basically the same. I will get some pictures up in the next few days for you if you still want to see them.

Alan Hahn · « **Reply #2 on:** February 21, 2010, 08:19:49 PM »

Quote from: William DeMauro on February 21, 2010, 07:48:30 PM

In my SV 11 thread http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=11132.0;all (post 42) are a few pictures of how I did it. I am doing a slight variation on my T Rex but it will still be basically the same. I will get some pictures up in the next few days for you if you still want to see them.

I have posted this picture already---and I admit, I stole it from someone on this forum (mea culpa!). But I'll post it again-- just the actual connection--it is that easy.

My only comment is that you should have a cover for the male side of the connector (ironically, the same size plastic fitting I used on my uniflow tank overflow line).

All I did was to cut one of the battery-ESC cables (on the ESC side) and add bullet connectors. So when I carry the plane out to the circle, this isn't connected. Just before I signal the judges, I attach the two together. Then I signal, then I puch the timer button (on my JMP-2 timer. If I had a Ztron, the time would start when I connected the two connectors.

Alan

Darkstar1 · « **Reply #3 on:** February 22, 2010, 08:31:43 AM »

Walter,
Look at the bottom right of the picture. That is the arming wire & plug this disables the battery without
removing it. The other pic is the same thing but made from Deans connectors. Sorry it took me so long 2
post this,

Mike Palko · « **Reply #4 on:** February 22, 2010, 04:20:30 PM »

I use a modified Maxx Products arming plug (Sermos/Anderson Power Pole style). The two other switches are for timer power (starts flight sequence) and "anti-spark". It might be hard to see, but that was the idea.

Mike

Walter Hicks · « **Reply #5 on:** February 22, 2010, 05:22:16 PM »

Thank you very much to all who have responded.

Howard Rush · « **Reply #6 on:** February 22, 2010, 08:33:19 PM »

Would a blade-type car fuse work?

Alan Hahn · « **Reply #7 on:** February 23, 2010, 07:31:13 AM »

Quote from: Howard Rush on February 22, 2010, 08:33:19 PM

Would a blade-type car fuse work?

That's sorta the way the Dean's and the Sermos things work.

A couple of issues with the fuse is that you want a big one, first for obvious reasons, and secondly to minimize any resistance-related to the first issue.

Another potential problem is that a fuse/connector is really meant to be "made" once, and not pulled apart until burned out. So I am not sure if there would be a problem with a lot of connects/disconnects--especially with the connector housing.

Dave Evar · « **Reply #8 on:** February 23, 2010, 12:14:31 PM »

I twisted three lengths of extension cord together, soldered wire connectors
on each end, + of battery to one pin on fuse, + of ESC to other. I remove
it from plane when not at the field. Have three, just in case. Hubin FM2-a
timer on ARF Smoothie

Not to pretty, but looked better before the crash.

Dave

Paul Walker · « **Reply #9 on:** February 23, 2010, 12:47:21 PM »

Quote from: Mike Palko on February 22, 2010, 04:20:30 PM

I use a modified Maxx Products arming plug (Sermos/Anderson Power Pole style). The two other switches are for timer power (starts flight sequence) and "anti-spark". It might be hard to see, but that was the idea.

Mike

Mike,
Would you please expand your discussion of the "anti-spark" device. I want to add one, but have not settled on what's the best.
Thanks

Paul W

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #10 on:** February 23, 2010, 01:16:10 PM »

I second Pauls comment~query,
I too would like to install an anti spark on mine,,

Mike Palko · « **Reply #11 on:** February 23, 2010, 04:45:13 PM »

Paul, Mark,

I have been using a 1/2 watt 10Ω resistor with the 5S/Schulze Future 18.46K ESC setup.

The capacitance and voltage will determine the resistor that is needed. Patrick of Castle Creations feels a 1Ω resistor will work across the board with his ESC's. I haven't tested all of the ESC/Voltage combinations to say if this is true. To much resistance and the capacitor will charge to slow, to little resistance and it will charge to fast resulting in a spark. Somewhere between a 1/2 watt 1Ω resistor and a 1/2 watt 10Ω resistor should work fine for our low voltages. You can calculate the resistance needed or use trial and error.

My setup uses a switch to close the resistor circuit rather than having to plug in a second plug, plus it's cleaner.

The flight sequence is:

1. Connect battery (circuit is open, arming plug is not connected, no spark produced)
2. Close cowling and ready on flight line
3. Turn switch one ON (anti-spark circuit, charges the capacitor(s))
4. Connect arming plug (no longer sparks, system is armed)
5. Turn switch one OFF
6. Turn switch two ON to start flight sequence

Hope that helps, Mike

John Witt · « **Reply #12 on:** February 23, 2010, 06:57:19 PM »

Here's some pix of the setup in my Vector. I used a male-female pair of the Chinese copy of Dean's. The inside one is soldered into the positive lead from the battery to the ESC. The plug has a small brass bar soldered across the terminals. The bar is bent down slightly to make it easier to pull out and then covered with heat shrink. There isn't any spark suppression, but I like that idea and may add it. The toggle switch arms the ESC.

The inside part is epoxied to a piece of 1/16 ply which is glued to the inner fuselage wall.

The procedure is to plug in the safety plug, then walk out to the handle. The helper flips the switch and ignition is 15 seconds later.

John W

Howard Rush · « **Reply #13 on:** February 23, 2010, 11:56:19 PM »

I see you have tamper-proof fasteners, a good idea considering the riffraff you fly with.

Alan Hahn · « **Reply #14 on:** February 24, 2010, 08:54:10 AM »

Quote from: Howard Rush on February 23, 2010, 11:56:19 PM

I see you have tamper-proof fasteners, a good idea considering the riffraff you fly with.

Are those the guys who push buttons first and then ask questions?

John Witt · « **Reply #15 on:** February 24, 2010, 12:42:31 PM »

I was just trying to raise the level of riffraffiness. Succeeded, too. Notice that I did not succumb to the temptation to respond in JCT scansion.

JW

William DeMauro · « **Reply #16 on:** February 24, 2010, 06:06:01 PM »

Here are a few pictures of the arming/safety switch that I will bee using on my T-Rex. This is made up of all 4mm bullet connectors. This is similar to the one I am using on my SV-11 except that I am using a Deans on the inside instead. I feel that this is even lighter and simpler.

Walter Hicks · « **Reply #17 on:** February 24, 2010, 10:13:36 PM »

EXCELLENT ! I can do this now. thanks for all the input again. Walter Hicks

Alan Hahn · « **Reply #18 on:** February 25, 2010, 11:45:50 AM »

Quote from: William DeMauro on February 24, 2010, 06:06:01 PM

Here are a few pictures of the arming/safety switch that I will bee using on my T-Rex. This is made up of all 4mm bullet connectors. This is similar to the one I am using on my SV-11 except that I am using a Deans on the inside instead. I feel that this is even lighter and simpler.

I think you are the one I stole mine from!

Paul Walker · « **Reply #19 on:** February 25, 2010, 12:56:41 PM »

.

The flight sequence is:

1. Connect battery (circuit is open, arming plug is not connected, no spark produced)
2. Close cowling and ready on flight line
3. Turn switch one ON (anti-spark circuit, charges the capacitor(s))
4. Connect arming plug (no longer sparks, system is armed)
5. Turn switch one OFF
6. Turn switch two ON to start flight sequence

Hope that helps, Mike

[/quote]

Thanks Mike. I want to be very careful with this. Would you please describe in more detail what the size of your switch is, and where it is in the circuit.
Thanks

William DeMauro · « **Reply #20 on:** February 25, 2010, 05:09:32 PM »

Quote from: Alan Hahn on February 25, 2010, 11:45:50 AM

I think you are the one I stole mine from!

Alan,
I do enough of my own stealing around here! I'm only too glad that you were actually able to use something I put up on here. It's nice to give back once in a while.
William

Igor Burger · « **Reply #21 on:** February 26, 2010, 01:53:02 PM »

Mike Palko · « **Reply #22 on:** February 26, 2010, 04:45:30 PM »

Quote from: Paul Walker on February 25, 2010, 12:56:41 PM

.

The flight sequence is:

1. Connect battery (circuit is open, arming plug is not connected, no spark produced)
2. Close cowling and ready on flight line
3. Turn switch one ON (anti-spark circuit, charges the capacitor(s))
4. Connect arming plug (no longer sparks, system is armed)
5. Turn switch one OFF
6. Turn switch two ON to start flight sequence

Hope that helps, Mike

Thanks Mike. I want to be very careful with this. Would you please describe in more detail what the size of your switch is, and where it is in the circuit.
Thanks

The switch is identical to the one supplied with the Z-Tron V.4 timer.

When the battery is plugged into the ESC (step 1 above) the circuit is open due to the arming plug not being in place, therefore there is no spark at the battery/ESC connectors. I then turn on the anti-spark switch (step 3 above) which completes the circuit between the battery and ESC. This charges the capacitors on the Schulze ECS in about ~1-2 seconds. Now when I plug in my arming switch (step 4 above) there is no spark and it will have a MUCH longer life. I turn off switch one and then turn on switch two. If it wasn't buried inside the fuse I would take a picture.

Igor's method is very popular with bullet connectors. You solder the capacitor to the connector/wire and cover with heat shrink. Plug in the first connector then the second connector with the capacitor attached. You manually touch the capacitor to the bullet connector and then make the final connection.

I used my method because I use Sermos/Power pole connectors. I also had to have a way that every connection could be made without removing a cowling. Local contests are not usually a problem if time is needed on the flight line, but at the Nats, team trials or World style contest time is of essence.

Mike

John Witt · « **Reply #23 on:** February 27, 2010, 10:48:28 AM »

What are the consequences of leaving the capacitor switch on when the system is armed. It seems to me that you just have a (relatively) high resistance shunt around the arming switch. If you left it turned on then the ESC would be armed, but that is of no consequence until the flight is completed.

The reason I ask is that I often have people launch my plane who are (A) unfamiliar with the plane, and (B) unfamiliar with electrics in general. It's the reason I get greasy hand prints on the wing.

The chance of getting the wrong switch turned off/on are high.

And sometimes I forget things, being old and decrepit like I am.

John W

Dennis Adamisin · « **Reply #24 on:** February 27, 2010, 11:28:21 AM »

I have ben using a single bullet in the ESC wire, routed outside the fuselage. I really do now like the blue flame at contact! I will have to trade-up to Igor's method.

John W: Maybe it is possible to use a single switch wired so that in one position it arms the capcitor, but in the other position it arms the timer and disconnects the capacitor?

John Witt · « **Reply #25 on:** February 27, 2010, 01:35:45 PM »

That would work: a double throw, center off.