Guys,
My Rescue Ringmaster seemed to be a bit of a porker. I recently had to redo one of the connectors on the motor plug and took the time to remove all the electronic equipment and weight the bare ship. I had thought it was all the ship, it wasn't!! The bare ship is 19.2oz. If it had a Veco 19BB it would by 6oz plus 1oz for the tank and mount plus 3oz  fuel so add 10oz that's 29.2oz would be really good. Now the BadAss 2814 980Kv is 4.13oz, the CC-ESC Talon 35 is 1oz, timer 0.25 oz plus my switch is 1oz, then we have the HobbyStar 4S 1800 mah pack is 6.7 oz. add another 1 oz for misc wiring. So, the total electric is 14.08 oz this gets me to a total of 33.28 oz. which should be OK for OTS. Don't know why is just feels like it is much heavier.

What is the weight of your electric package for your Ringmasters?

Best,   DennisT

Go here and search!

https://stunthanger.com/smf/gettin-all-amp'ed-up!/list-your-set-up/

OK.  For a 29.2oz airframe, you should expect:

• To consume 7 * 29.2 = 204.4W on average
• To consume 11 * 29.2 = 321.2W peak
• Over a six-minute run, consume (0.1 hour) * (204.4W) = 20.44 Watt-hours

So, you need a motor that is rated for 321W peak, and 205W continuous.  The Badass 2812-980Kv is rated at 680W on four cells -- so that's a bit overweight.  They probably mean continuous power, because they're badass, so, it's more than a bit overweight.  The Badass 2310-900Kv is rated at 240W on 4S, so it'll probably work (you won't be running it full throttle, so that gives you some headroom in the power department).  It weighs 2.05 ounces.

So that's 2.08 ounces removed right there.

The peak current you'd expect to see, with fully drained batteries and delivering 321W is (321W) / (4 * 3.3V) = 24.33A.  There's a Talon 25A that weighs 0.63oz.

So that's 0.37 oz removed.

If you want to use 75% of the charge on a 4S pack, you need (20.4 Watt-hours) / (0.75 * 4 * 3.7V) = 1.84 amp-hours or 1840 mAH -- so keep the same battery pack, and figure the 40mA-H difference is just a rounding error.

If you don't want to go on a crash weight-loss program by shortening all the wires (you could, you know), then let's just keep everything the same, and say that you're at 33.3 - 2.4 = 30.9 ounces.  That's 1 3/4 ounce more than with the Veco, but lighter than you have now.

This is not great, but it's not bad, either -- if you were building a Ringmaster specifically electric you could build some lightness into it because you don't have to absorb vibration in front, so that might make some or all of that extra two ounces of pork.

As an alternative baseline, my Atlantis weighed 64 ounces with motor and empty 6-ounce tank -- so 70 ounces fueled up.  It weighed 72 ounces after I converted it to electric and it carried more weight than if it'd been purpose-built for electric.  So percentage-wise I did better than what I'm projecting for you, but I still came in a bit heavier than a fueled-up pre-converted airplane would be.

You don’t need a switch or arming plug on a profile. Just unplug the battery.

Tim,
I originally had the BA 2320 820 in it and the problem is to get to the 4.75 lap time (60' C to C) it just ran out of rpm. I checked the 2315's and they all just make 10K on some props. 

The BadAss 2315's go all the way up to 2300Kv.  That'll do 30,000 RPM on four cells at end of charge, or die trying.  So I'm not sure where your 10K RPM comes from.

I'm also not sure where the "on some props" comes from.  Electric motors tend to want to go at a constant speed for the voltage -- put on too much prop and they won't bog down -- they'll just overheat, or burn out the ESC.  That's the "or die trying" part in my previous paragraph.

820Kv on 4 cells is SLOW -- just barely 10K RPM at 3.3V/cell, 13800 RPM at full charge.

What pitch are you running?  It's typical to use more pitch on an electric than a slimer.

Tim,
Its not that the BA2310's won't get to 10K, its they won't get there on a 10" diameter prop. They only get there on 8" props. I know the BA 2320 1090kv gets there (from the chart at Inov8tion site) but that is at a controlled 14.8 volts (I talked to them, they control Voltage direct to the motor) so it could be very close, but doable. I had the BA2320  820kv and it didn't get to the 10K from about 50% charge or less. The 1090 is a option I may look into.

I really think that at this weight the 10" diameter 6 - 7" pitch works, a wide blade 9x6 works on glow but wood props on the electric Ringmaster is tricky even with one that lands good.

Right now, still working through the timer start issue. Power on two beeps delay chirp and nothing!! I need to swap out the timer and see if there is something that got messed up in the one I was using.

Best,   DennisT

Update: Just got done talking with CC tech, we went through the whole setup and then let him here the start tones over the phone. He said all is normal and it seems the ESC is not getting a throttle up signal from the timer. I need to check the connections on the timer plug to see if something is not connecting there (I did switch out timers and same thing) I think the signal lead is the issue in the plug as I did shorten this lead and maybe the connector is not making good connection to the wire.

The 2320 motors will definitely spin a 10x6e at 10k with the right KV & in-flight pack voltage.  It's always better to accommodate for a higher kv motor, as you can't use what you don't have, especially later in the flight and/or with load-based voltage sag. 

I have been flight testing the BA 2320/1310kv at 10k-rpm with a APC 10X6e on a foam wing Ukey 35, 430sq. 31oz plane on 58ft lines using a 5.85oz 3s2800 li-ion 18650 pack. This motor/prop combo pulled the plane around with authority and it stayed nice and tight in the overhead maneuvers.  I mention this only to give some data regarding the 2320 motor family.  I performed some additional ground tests with the same 3s li-ion pack at various rpm.  The BA2315/1480kv at 10k got noticeably warmer than the 2320/1310 spinning the APC 10x6e vs the 9x6e.

So, back on topic for DT, reverting back to a 3.23oz 2320 motor at the next size up in KV (1090), eliminating the 1oz master switch and cleaning up the extra wire should easily save a minimum 2oz up front.  If it were me, I would lean towards using the 2320 over the 2315 on a 30+oz plane.

Tail weight?