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Electric Stunt => Gettin all AMP'ed up! => Topic started by: Motorman on September 12, 2012, 06:39:05 PM

Title: Nose lenght for Electric
Post by: Motorman on September 12, 2012, 06:39:05 PM
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Title: Re: Nose lenght for Electric
Post by: John Cralley on September 12, 2012, 07:52:07 PM
Here is what I use for my S-1 Ringmasters. The battery must be mostly behind the leading edge of the wing to get the right center of gravity.
Title: Re: Nose lenght for Electric
Post by: John Cralley on September 13, 2012, 03:39:52 PM
The motor mount that I used here is 1/4" plywood (2 1/8" pieces epoxied together to make six ply) and attached to a vertical piece of maple motor mount with two 4-40 machine screws and blind (T) nuts.

The wing leading edge is notched and a plywood (1/8") plate is used for the  battery mount. I have now been using Velcro on the battery mount plate and the battery itself after I experienced a swinging battery syndrome when the Velcro strap let loose in a violent maneuver.  y1 The bell crank and push rod were installed on the inboard side of the wing so that they did not interfere with the battery mount structure.

This Ringmaster was purposely built for electric power and a good deal of fuselage was removed as a weight saving measure.
Title: Re: Nose lenght for Electric
Post by: John Cralley on September 24, 2012, 07:16:00 AM
Did you have to cut into the leading edge? Seems like a big compromise in strength. MM

The answer is: Yes I cut almost halfway through the leading edge and I also installed the bell crank on the inboard side to keep it out of the way. What you cannot see is that there is a carbon fiber tube reinforcing the leading edge out to the first rib beyond the sheeting on both sides. Ringmasters do have a reputation for shedding the outboard wing is violent maneuvers.  ;D