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Electric Stunt => Gettin all AMP'ed up! => Topic started by: Bob Hunt on February 02, 2015, 09:18:12 AM
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In preparation for Sparky's upcoming series on building the RD-1, I've gone ahead and designed an alternate nose that accepts electric motors. I decided to build one for myself, and I took photos as I went. I'm sending the drawing and the completed fuselage to Bob Kruger so that he can do an updated plan for the electric version.
I thought you all might like to see the photo sequence of the electric nose construction. I'm not going to write up a step-by-step here, as all that will be a part of the official build series. The photos presented here should give you the idea, however... I'll include about 10 photos per post until they are all up.
Later - Bob Hunt
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Here's 10 more...
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and 10 more...
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and the last of them...
Just a note here: The entire nose will be glassed with 3/4 ounce cloth and thin CA glue. That will bond the entire nose section into a very strong assembly.
Later - Bob Hunt
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Very nice Bob.
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Thanks, Mike! ;D
Bob
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I've never put a really spinner on an electric motor, so this will sound stupid to most. The motor shaft looked flush with the fuse, is there a shaft/prop adapter behind the spinner back plate? What brand spinners work best for electric motors?
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Hi Duke:
Yup, there is a prop adapter that comes with the Power 15 (and for that matter all E-Flite motors...), that has a raised 3/8-inch diameter ring on its front that keys into the backplate of the spinner. The rear of this adapter has a tapered collet that grips the motor shaft when the prop is tightened.
The attached photo should answer your question.
Later - Bob
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Thanks. That's what I thought. I have just used the collet and spinner nut that comes with them. Thanks again for all the work you are doing for this. I'm sure you have way more important things to do. Daniel (oldest son) and I have both built Holeshots and are fired up about building the RD-1E. #^ #^
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Bob,
Thanks for the photos in your posts! I am stealing all your ideas for the "E" Warden Trophy Trainer I am working on. ;D How thick are your ply doublers? 1/32" or 1/64" ply? Will you be cutting any holes behind the spinner so cooling air will flow through the front of the motor? Is it necessary?
I really enjoyed chatting with you on the phone last week. It is always a pleasurable experience and so informative. I hope you are still loving your new Taylor GEETAR! :) Email me some photos!
Take care my friend.
Shawn
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Now that's what a profile motor mount should look like! I gotta go sit down.
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How do you get the air to the motor?
Warren
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How do you get the air to the motor?
Warren
If is really necessary, Bob knowledge give him solutions for everything 8)
A Turbo Cool Spinner is a way to get air to the motor or something new that can surprise us S?P
I'm follow Bob since many years and of course is a reference for me and to my buildings :)
Thanks Bob for sharing.
José
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Hi all, and thanks for the many kudos.
I'll address the cooling issue at the end of the personal responses.
Shawn: I'm using 1/32 ply doublers, but I'm fairly certain that 1/64 ply would suffice. Yeah, it's dangerous for us to get together on the phone; our conversations are wide ranging and long! n~ I really enjoyed our chat the other day, and yes, I love the new Taylor. I live less than two miles from the Martin Guitar factory and yet bought a Taylor. I tried the Martins, and they are very nice, but the Taylor is just so darn easy to play! I'll send you a photo of it later on today.
Crist: Wow! Such a compliment from you on mounting profile motors is humbling. I know that you've done a bunch of them and they all looked and worked great.
Jose: I'm happy to hear that my etchings and illustrations have helped you. We've known and corresponded with each other by mail and internet for many years. Here's hoping we get the chance to meet in person before too long.
Cooling: There are several ways to address cooling here. As mentioned, a Tru-Turn Turboflow spinner could be employed. Or, you could use a smaller diameter spinner and have an annular inlet that would allow air flow into the cooling slots. I have found on the profile nacelles on my test bed twin - which are done in this exact same manner - that cooling in a profile model is just not required. The motors on the twin come down COLD! Not luke warm, but cold! y1 There must be a lot of "spillage" around the back of the nose cone area that hits the motor and keeps it cool. I'll let everyone know if this is not the case with the RD-1E.
Thanks again - Bob
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Never thought of the template...
Excellent work and thanks Bob...
Marcus
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Hi Marcus:
Thanks! Yeah, the 1/32 inch thick plywood template serves double duty; it allows me to scribe the exact shape of the desired mount right onto the face of one of my Hardnose Motor Mount plates, and then allows me to make the front balsa filler blocks accurately and easily. It just seemed logical. Who'd expect logic from me...? %^@
Later - Bob <=
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Just bumping this up because someone asked about mounting electric motors on a profile recently...
Later - Bob Hunt
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Just bumping this to the top so a friend who asked about this thread can find it quickly.
Bob Hunt
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Just bumping this to the top because Perry Rose asked about profile electric mount conversions on the Building Techniques forum.
Bob Hunt
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Thanks Bob. This puts me back to square one in my design process. That's a good thing. My first go at it would have been a bit heavy. How are you mounting the battery? I'm planning on a recess in the fuse. side. Brodak's conversion kit "D".
Dennis Adamisin has steered me in the right direction for power.I'm going to use the motor for the SV-11 ARF.
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Bob,
I want to imitate the majority of your design here on my profile plane. Is the actual motor mount a G10 material, or CF?
Thanks
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Bob,
Nice motor installation, I think this gives a nice profile and still meets the exposed motor/engine rule that some require for profile ships.
Next question is where to put the battery and electronics? Hope you can do another pictorial on that installation.
Best, DennisT
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Bob,
I want to imitate the majority of your design here on my profile plane. Is the actual motor mount a G10 material, or CF?
Thanks
Hi Dane:
The material is G-10 that is dyed black; that's why it looks a bit like CF.
Later - Bob
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Bob,
Nice motor installation, I think this gives a nice profile and still meets the exposed motor/engine rule that some require for profile ships.
Next question is where to put the battery and electronics? Hope you can do another pictorial on that installation.
Best, DennisT
Hi Dennis:
Actually I don't have any battery installation photos for that plane. I gave that one to the late, great Bob Kruger, who did the CAD drawings for the RD-1E.
I do have some installation photos of the system in the Joe Nall Cadet. They are posted here...
Later - Bob
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Bob,
Great pictures of the Cadet battery installation. A few questions: what size battery back is planned to be used? Was a tail weight box needed to get the balance correct?
Best, DennisT
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Hi Dennis:
Those models (all five of them) had Hyperion 2500 mAh 4S packs, and they balanced perfectly without any nose or tail weight. That was just luck...
I've decided to go ahead and make plans for this model (formal plans, not the rough pencils with which the first five were built), and perhaps even a semi-kit that has the wing core and the foam fuse core.
Later - Bob
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Just bumping this up for Fred Quedenfeld who had a question about this subject.
Later - Bob
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I was going to use Bob's method on my new profile but later chose to use the Okie Model Air Products - 3D printed motor mount. This made the front end assembly really easy.
So far so good.
Dennis