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Electric Stunt => Gettin all AMP'ed up! => Topic started by: Bob Hunt on February 02, 2015, 09:18:12 AM
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In preparation for Sparky's upcoming series on building the RD-1, I've gone ahead and designed an alternate nose that accepts electric motors. I decided to build one for myself, and I took photos as I went. I'm sending the drawing and the completed fuselage to Bob Kruger so that he can do an updated plan for the electric version.
I thought you all might like to see the photo sequence of the electric nose construction. I'm not going to write up a step-by-step here, as all that will be a part of the official build series. The photos presented here should give you the idea, however... I'll include about 10 photos per post until they are all up.
Later - Bob Hunt
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Very nice Bob.
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I've never put a really spinner on an electric motor, so this will sound stupid to most. The motor shaft looked flush with the fuse, is there a shaft/prop adapter behind the spinner back plate? What brand spinners work best for electric motors?
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Thanks. That's what I thought. I have just used the collet and spinner nut that comes with them. Thanks again for all the work you are doing for this. I'm sure you have way more important things to do. Daniel (oldest son) and I have both built Holeshots and are fired up about building the RD-1E. #^ #^
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Bob,
Thanks for the photos in your posts! I am stealing all your ideas for the "E" Warden Trophy Trainer I am working on. ;D How thick are your ply doublers? 1/32" or 1/64" ply? Will you be cutting any holes behind the spinner so cooling air will flow through the front of the motor? Is it necessary?
I really enjoyed chatting with you on the phone last week. It is always a pleasurable experience and so informative. I hope you are still loving your new Taylor GEETAR! :) Email me some photos!
Take care my friend.
Shawn
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Now that's what a profile motor mount should look like! I gotta go sit down.
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How do you get the air to the motor?
Warren
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How do you get the air to the motor?
Warren
If is really necessary, Bob knowledge give him solutions for everything 8)
A Turbo Cool Spinner is a way to get air to the motor or something new that can surprise us S?P
I'm follow Bob since many years and of course is a reference for me and to my buildings :)
Thanks Bob for sharing.
José
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Never thought of the template...
Excellent work and thanks Bob...
Marcus
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Thanks Bob. This puts me back to square one in my design process. That's a good thing. My first go at it would have been a bit heavy. How are you mounting the battery? I'm planning on a recess in the fuse. side. Brodak's conversion kit "D".
Dennis Adamisin has steered me in the right direction for power.I'm going to use the motor for the SV-11 ARF.
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Bob,
I want to imitate the majority of your design here on my profile plane. Is the actual motor mount a G10 material, or CF?
Thanks
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Bob,
Nice motor installation, I think this gives a nice profile and still meets the exposed motor/engine rule that some require for profile ships.
Next question is where to put the battery and electronics? Hope you can do another pictorial on that installation.
Best, DennisT
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Bob,
Great pictures of the Cadet battery installation. A few questions: what size battery back is planned to be used? Was a tail weight box needed to get the balance correct?
Best, DennisT
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I was going to use Bob's method on my new profile but later chose to use the Okie Model Air Products - 3D printed motor mount. This made the front end assembly really easy.
So far so good.
Dennis
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What happened to the rest of Bob's posts on this topic? They stop after the first ten photos now. It originally included photos to the completion of the front end of the ship. Anybody have the rest of them?
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I was going to use Bob's method on my new profile but later chose to use the Okie Model Air Products - 3D printed motor mount. This made the front end assembly really easy.
So far so good.
Dennis
Dennis, I have used that mount on three planes. They are fantastic but be careful. If your motor runs really hot they will soften around the mounting inserts and elongate the hole. Happened on two of mine, both full body version. A little JB and some new spacers worked. Just check your alignment periodically. When it cools on the ground it will reharden. He may be using a more heat resistant plastic now.
Ken
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Don't know how much room for the battery pack but for Ringmaster style nose HobbyStar (https://rcjuice.com/collections/softcase-batteries/products/hobbystar-1800mah-14-8v-4s-120c-lipo-battery?_pos=4&_fid=4ad29f075&_ss=c) makes a nice short pack that fits right where the tank goes.
Best, DennisT
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Though the pictures have unfortunately vaporized from Stunthanger, you can still see Bob's entire profile nose build method documented in the July/August 2015 StuntNews.
https://pampacl.org/stuntnewsdownload.php?file=/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/sn_magazine_jul_aug_2015.pdf
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Thanks so much, Brent! I don’t remember seeing that in Stunt News, and I’ve been a PAMPA member forever. Just what I was searching for.
Gary