I have a sig Banshee kit that I would like to build into an electric. I was at sig this year and on the last day a guy brought out a Force done e power, I was impressed and took notes and when I got ready to build found I had lost them.
do any of you know this guy and, or what the system consisted of.
Thanks all
bill

thanks.
I want to start with something I have seen and know works.
Gives me a bass line to learn from.
I'm not the quickest learner.

Hi Ron,
Don't you think a three-cell battery will suffice for a Banshee?
Then a 28/26/8 motor would lessen the I-R drop losses.
That would be my guess for a Fox 35 replacement setup.
The TP 3-cell 4200 would weigh 10 oz flat.

Alternatively, keep the 10-turn motor and go down to a 3300 mAH battery for weight.
Then the in-flight current should be targetted at 25A for 2.5 AH of flight consumption.
10C rated batteries should suffice for the 4-cell / 25 A setup.
I don't know off the top of my head how light you could find a set of 10C 4-cell 3300s.
My guess is that you might beat 10 oz by just a bit.

The trend in new batts seems to be a bit heavier anbd capable of higher peak currents,
but our 6-minute, near constant throttle, flight means that 10 or 12C is all we absolutely need.

later,
Dean P.

Thanks all for the great advice, It will give me things to think about.  But don't feed it to me to fast, I will overload.

I am not sure I completely understand your question, but parallel gives more amp draw, but doesn't change the C draw of a particular cell or the combined pack. "C" is a function of the particular cell.
For example, suppose you have two 1000mAH lipo's, both with 20C draw. Individually or in series, you can draw 20 Amps continuous. If you put them in parallel, you have a 2000mAH battery, and can now draw 40 Amps continuous, but the "C" is the same (=20).

Remember Max continuous draw in amps =C* capacity (A-Hours)/Hours

the reason I am asking is because if I can use two smaller pack I can arrange them to keep the CG correct without adding weight to the tail. For a motor my girl friend just gave me (don't ask me who helped her) a Evo. 893 with speed controller (E-Bay I think. She loves that sight). Its a forty amp motor, though not a good one if looks are any judge but its a start. And the Atom just took a hit while I was flying it, its light, and since it needs work I'm half done. All I think I need now is a JMP timer, batteries and charger, I think.

The motor is from RC Smart which I guess is an australian based E-Bay dealer.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/RC-Model-893-Outrunner-Brushless-Motor-40A-ESC-UP_W0QQitemZ140076494170QQihZ004QQcategoryZ34055QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem
This is were she got it, I hope it will work. She will feel bad if it sucks, so even if it does I will have to tell her it was great.
really the only thing that worries me is that the shaft is rather small in diameter.
I will need a four cell setup.
and the instuctions are in bad chinese to english.

Hi Bill,
I'm with Mike: this is probably a 25 equivalent.
With a Kv of about 900, you are probably going to run either a 4-cell / 4 Amp-hour pack at 375 to 400 Watts, or a 3-cell pack at about 280 Watts.
At a weight of 4 ounces, I am betting that the 280 Watt figure is more realistic without overheating the motor. That means your plane should be maybe 30 to 32 ounces for real Stunt Pattern performance. That probably translates to a 10-5 or 9-6 prop on the 3-cell setup depending on line length. What you must do is to getyourself a current meter. I use a clamp-on hall-effect current meter that I bought here at the Sears department store.  You have to keep your current on the ground under 35A at most, and more like 30 to start with. When Mike says start out easy, that means start out with smaller diameter props and less current. Then work your way up in diameter and current until you are consuming 3/4 of the battery capacity.
best of luck,
Dean Pappas

not done with the Atom but I had a 1/2A that works out fine. I did order some spare bearings and shafts for the motor. Planes weight is 22 ounces, 42 inch wingspan, thrust at what I hope is the right RPM 33 ounces, towerpro BM2409-12 motor and ESC, apc 8-4e prop, 2200 20c battery (found two CHEAP), jmp timer.
Have not flown it yet but have run it on the ground eight times, nothing got even warm, and the speed never dropped off. I do worry about the SMALL bearing so that why I ordered some spares.
To get an idea of the weight difference the plane on nitro with full tank weighted in at 16 ounces.

It wasn't mine and it broke because he cut a pocket in the nose to add a tank, so he was maybe 2 ounce heavier up front. I added 1/2 ounce forward with this motor. and although it can do it I tend to refrain from the 2 foot radius turns.
Besides i've had this plane since the plans came out, must be about 6 or 7 years, so given my record it should have broken 4 years ago.

Has anyone tried electric on a Ringmaster?

Yep, I've got an electric Ringmaster converted and flying. You need to check it out on the Brotherhood of the Ring web site:
http://www.brotherhoodofthering.info/
You need to join the "Brotherhood" but it is a great forum if you have a soft spot for Ringmasters! 

Bill, Yes it flies but I would have to say that it is a bit too heavy to be competitive in a stunt pattern (33 to 34 oz). It is a great sport flier and I have a park just two blocks from my house where I can nip over and get in some flights. I usually go over early in the AM and don't see much of anyone except the occasional dog walker. I fly from grass in the far end of the park away from the developed facilities. I use a stooge and have been flying alone. 

I plan to build a "lite" Ringmaster and expect great things from it. Some are claiming to come in at 24-25 ozs with "Lite" Ringmasters and that could make a big difference. I'll attach a couple of flight photos to this post.

John

John,
How about some more details on your Ringmaster setup.  Afterall, it is the younger brother (same Dad) to the Super Clown!

Alan, I have posted the complete conversion info on the Brotherhood of the Ring forum and in their Album section. Here is a listing of the parts used:

Essential Parts from: UnitedHobbies.com (China)

ITEM
GWS Electro prop 254x152 (10” x 6”) $0.80
HexTronic 2200 maH 3S 11.1 volt 20-30C Lipoly Battery $32.53
Deans Style T-Connectors 10 pairs $7.08
HXT 42-40A 1050kv 35A Brushless outrunner motor $29.78
TP W30A Brushless Speed Control $15.95
JB 1100 Digital Smart Lipo/NiM Balancing Battery Charger $39.95 (I would suggest a more powerful charger for faster recharging the battery)
Subtotal $126.09
Shipping $28.61
Total $154.70

Essential Parts from: BSD Micro RC (bsdmicrorc.com)
ITEM
JMP Control Line Timer $30.00
Subtotal $30.00
Shipping $4.05
Total $34.05

Essential Parts for Conversion Grand Total $188.75

I bought parts from China for about half the cost from the US suppliers but you take your chances. So far I have not had any problems however make sure that what you order is in stock or be prepared to wait! Usually in stock items have arrived in less than two weeks. Don't expect any support from China, though sometimes you may be surprised. The programing instructions for the ESC have to be obtained from the internet since none will arrive with the ESC. Parts from American suppliers should work just fine but will cost more.

I cut out the bottom of the outboard wing to make a battery pit and then made an L shaped cover to hold the battery in place. I have moved the battery forward to a position just behind the leading edge to adjust the CG. I'll attach a few photos that are part of those posted in the Brotherhood site to give you an idea of the conversion.

John