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Author Topic: electric oriental  (Read 1057 times)

Offline Kevin M. Smith

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electric oriental
« on: February 08, 2013, 11:30:37 PM »
Just took home a Brodak Oriental (ARC) from the local hobby shop.  I am interested it building as an electric.  does anyone have any info on best way to do the conversion ?   Any suggestions on power system ?

thanks

Offline paul winter

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Re: electric oriental
« Reply #1 on: February 09, 2013, 03:27:26 AM »
the best way to do it ,is to cut off the nose and graft a new one on.
or cut out most of the bearers,use former one to mount the motor

i did it for a customer but it was nose heavy

or just make a complete new fuz
paul

Online jfv

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Re: electric oriental
« Reply #2 on: February 09, 2013, 05:04:46 AM »
Take a look at the November 2012 issue of Flying Models.  Oriental e-conversion in there.
Jim Vigani

Offline Dennis Adamisin

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Re: electric oriental
« Reply #3 on: February 09, 2013, 05:44:57 AM »
Kevin:
EXCELLENT choice!  One feature that the ARF/ARC Orientals have that make it easy to convert is the nosecone styple fiberglass cowl.  As Paul said you gotta keep an eye on the weight & balance, mainly by using the right size components.  The "O" has a rather long nose and a short/small tail.

PROP: 10", either a APC 10x5 turning around 10,800 RPM or a 11x5.5 pusher clipped to 10" and turning about 9,900 to 10,000 RPM

MOTOR in the 4-4.5 oz weight class. A 2815 size (internal dimensions) or 35-36 (external dimensions) or a E-Flite Power 15.  If you use a 4S battery the kv should be around 850-1000, for 3S use kv around 1250 - 1400

Battery: 4Sx2500 or a 3Sx3300 should work well.

ESC & Timer: consder these togeher.  A Castle Phoenix 35A or 45A ore the Castle ICE50 Lite any of these matched with a Will Hubin FM-2 or FM-9 Timer.  A good alternative is to use a KR Governing timer (from RSM) with just about any ESC of around 40A rating.

ARMING SWITCH: THe Maxx Products unit works well, not too hard to work into the installation.


I would recommend notching out the LE of the wing between the fuse sides about 1" deep to provide a little room for the pack.  packs I mentions all weich pretty close to 8.75 oz. the 4S packs tend to be a little shorter & fatter but can be pushed a little farther back for CG adjust.

Since you are starting with the ARC it will be easier to make more extensive mods that will make for a better installation.  I would recommend a top battery hatch, with the bottom glued in permanently.  remove the motor mounts, it is kind of rdiculous how easy that is to do, and that will save weight and give you more room for the install.  Try to gt the battery mass roughly centered on the wing.

 
Denny Adamisin
Fort Wayne, IN

As I've grown older, I've learned that pleasing everyone is impossible, but pissing everyone off is a piece of cake!

Offline John Cralley

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Re: electric oriental
« Reply #4 on: February 09, 2013, 08:02:22 AM »
Hi Kevin,

I've had an Oriental ARC in the box for a couple of years and have just not gotten around to doing the electric conversion. Maybe this winter yet!!

There are others that have converted Orientals and listed their setups in the  "List your Setup" at the top of this forum.  What Dennis listed should work fine. I think there are also threads on the actual conversion details that you can find by doing an advanced search designating that the search be in the "Gettin all AMP'ed up!" forum.
 Here is one thread a couple of years old :  http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=6588.msg162685;topicseen#msg162685

Keep us posted on your progress!!
John Cralley
Scratch Built - Often Re-kitted!!!
AMA 52183
Central Illinois

Offline Kevin M. Smith

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Re: electric oriental
« Reply #5 on: February 09, 2013, 05:15:03 PM »
Take a look at the November 2012 issue of Flying Models.  Oriental e-conversion in there.

Thanks for the reference. I have not bought "Flying Models" in about 40 years :-), but I just ordered the back issue. I used to like that magazine. It was less expensive at a little different from the others at the time - didn't have as many ads...

Offline Kevin M. Smith

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Re: electric oriental
« Reply #6 on: February 09, 2013, 05:20:35 PM »
Dennis et al,
Thanks for taking time to provide detailed reply on this. This is very useful. I'll let you know how I progress...The guys at the nearby clubs are looking forward to having me fly with them, so I still may purchase RTF (which I never thought I would) just to have something to fly while I work on the electric conversion.  Last control-line plane I built was a Sig Banshee which I built in '74 with a Fox 36X- so I'm a little rusty. 

Offline John Cralley

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Re: electric oriental
« Reply #7 on: February 09, 2013, 08:15:53 PM »
One of the nice things about electric is you can set the timer for a minute or so (I'm not sure about the minimum for the KR timer). This is handy for trimming your model and if you are a retread you will not be as apt to get dizzy. You can even have your launcher hold the running model for several seconds to reduce the flight time even more.
John Cralley
Scratch Built - Often Re-kitted!!!
AMA 52183
Central Illinois

Offline Andrew Borgogna

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Re: electric oriental
« Reply #8 on: February 09, 2013, 08:48:34 PM »
John
The KR timer can have the flight time set in 10 second increments, so a one minute flight time is very easy to set.  y1
Andy

P.S. I second everything Denny said. :)
Andrew B. Borgogna

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