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Electric Stunt => Gettin all AMP'ed up! => Topic started by: Randy Powell on March 13, 2013, 02:09:09 PM
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What method do most of you use to mount ESCs and timers.
I've looked at pictures and it seems that most just stick things down with Velcro. Are there other methods?
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Wow Randy. That's an identical title to the last time someone asked this question. Recently, too: http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=30470.0 (http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=30470.0).
On my RC planes I either let the ESC rattle around in the battery compartment or I stick it down someplace with Velcro. I think the thread I link to has a picture of Paul Walker's plane showing the ESC mount.
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Yea, I saw the topic after I posted. But my question is a bit different, though perhaps not stated well.
I know that you can just stick the ESC and timer with Velcro in the airstream somewhere. I was wonder if folks had used other methods. Like making some kind of mount to hold the ESC without the use of Velcro. I noticed that Paul used a screw on his timer. Wasn't sure if you could do that with an ESC.
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I noticed that Paul used a screw on his timer. Wasn't sure if you could do that with an ESC.
Only if the ESC comes with screw holes, which I haven't seen.
If I were going to make a mount I'd make a box with vanes that captured the top and bottom of the ESC without getting in the way of airflow, and sides that came right up to the ESC edges. Then I'd make darned sure that air flowed through the box.
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Randy, the only other option I have seen used is to suspend it with zip ties,,
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I have one held with Velcro and two with Zip ties. I like Zip ties better but takes a little more planning. Velcro takes up more space because of the thickness of the material.
Edit: Timers are held with screws in all cases.
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Thanks, guys. I've already worked out a way to mount it, but I wanted to cover all the bases. may go with zip ties but I have some Velcro too.
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Especially when using the FM-9 you want to make sure that it is accessible for easy access to the pins for reprogramming. Rick Sawicki and Bob Branch are mounting the timers on velcro patches, so they can remove the timer and make it VERY easy to access for programming, then tucking it back in a safe place on the velcro patch.
When using the older style timers like the FM-2 you need access to the pots via Phillips screwdriver
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Dennis,
That makes sense. Guess we'll see.
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I mounted my timer with one bolt. That suffices. The pins stick up, so it's handy for programming. Velcro would be fine, too. The controller doesn't need frequent access, but it does need cooling. I prefer zip ties to Velcro for the controller. I wouldn't want to put a blanket on one side.
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Especially when using the FM-9 you want to make sure that it is accessible for easy access to the pins for reprogramming. Rick Sawicki and Bob Branch are mounting the timers on velcro patches, so they can remove the timer and make it VERY easy to access for programming, then tucking it back in a safe place on the velcro patch.
When using the older style timers like the FM-2 you need access to the pots via Phillips screwdriver
How often do these timers and programs need to be set/reset???
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Doc,
It's kinda like fiddling with a needle valve. When you're looking for that perfect stunt run You'll adjust lap/ duration of flight times with the timer. The speed controller tells the motor how to start, run and stop. Some will fiddle with the settings constantly seeing how a different setting will affect flight performance and some people will set it and never make changes the entire season. On Castle speed controllers there is a neat feature that allows you to download and view how the motor did with the settings is was told to run by. Current draw, battery consumption and power in watts are just a few.
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Hey Doc
Then there are guys like me that for that most part "set'm and forget'm". The only time I make changes is when Eric Rule at RSM has me test motors and ESCs, but I always record the settings on my equipment and return them back to the original setting. Then again I don't win very many contests! HB~> HB~>
As far as mounting timers and ESCs, on profiles I use nylon tie raps and silicon adhesive. Yep I know "glue?". Well it works, it transfers heat from the ESC to the fuselage, it removes easy, and it's simple.
Andy
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I thought about building an ESC "mount". some sort of bolt down arrangement that was stuck to the ESC with silicon. Still might, but like Howard, I want airflow all around the ESC.
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I thought about building an ESC "mount". some sort of bolt down arrangement that was stuck to the ESC with silicon. Still might, but like Howard, I want airflow all around the ESC.
Just remember ESC do fail - at the worst time - and may need to replaced in a hurry.
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Just remember ESC do fail - at the worst time - and may need to replaced in a hurry.
Teah thats true,, though the one I had fail would have been tough to replace fast enough,, second loop of the clover, ESC quit,, pfffffftttttt,, depressing,, but hey I saved the plane so I could change the ESC at a leaserly pace
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Just remember ESC do fail - at the worst time - and may need to replaced in a hurry.
That's a good thought. For stunt, I reckon it should be the time it takes from when you call an attempt to when you are called upon to fly again: about 15 minutes should do it.
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I hear what you are saying about field repairs, but that's something I just don't do unless it is something a couple drops of CA will correct. If I have a major electrical failure I generally take things home and repair them. It's kind of a sign from above "Andy take the plane home". Like I said before, the silicon glue is very easy to cut through and remove, it has never been a problem. It was Don Hutchenson who first told me about gluing electronic parts to the fuselage to provide a heat sink. It was on his spark module for my ignition Humongous. I figured if it works on a spark module it should work on other electronic devices. So far so good.
Andy
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Be careful about using silicon products around electronics. When curing, silicon out-gases ammonia which is very corrosive. The controller shrink wrap will probably protect it. GOOP products do not out-gas ammonia. Just a thought from my electric boat racing days (1994).
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If I have a major electrical failure I generally take things home and repair them.
Depends on how far you've driven to the contest. I'd have another controller ready with the same program and the same connectors. As you start the wingover on the makeup flight, though, the Voice from above will ask, "Why do you suppose the first controller failed?"
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John
I had a 40 career as a computer tech and engineer, and I have heard the issue regarding silicon glue and electronics many times. The things is I have never encountered the problem ever! I have been using silicon glue in and around electronics for four decades and am still waiting for the damage to show up. I'm not saying it can't happen, I am saying the problem is nowhere near as bad as it has been made out to be.
Howard I live 45 miles from the club flying site, and again I am not a serious contender for anything. I am a sport flyer and sometime competitive flyer. Like I said if something goes wrong I generally take it home. But again I do understand that for the serious competitor field repairs are something to contend with.
Andy
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John
I had a 40 career as a computer tech and engineer, and I have heard the issue regarding silicon glue and electronics many times. The things is I have never encountered the problem ever! I have been using silicon glue in and around electronics for four decades and am still waiting for the damage to show up. I'm not saying it can't happen, I am saying the problem is nowhere near as bad as it has been made out to be.
Andy,
I tend to agree with you. We were using large quantities of sealer on the electronics in boats. We had lots of water and sealed compartments. Corrosion did occur with the silicon. However this was because we used it in direct contact with the electronics. The problem did not occur with Goop. Having said all that using silicon to mount things where it doesn't come in direct contact with the PCB has never cause a problem. I am a little over sensitive because my background is 40 years of space and military electronics. Silicones were usually on the do not use list because of outgassing and corrosion issues.
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Hi All,
Permatex Ultra-Blue is one type that is both easy to find and non-corrosive.
It has to say non-corrosive, and yes those are a bit more expensive than mere bathtub caulk.
Also Loctite® Superflex® Non-Corrosive RTV available at Sears, apparently.
take care,
Dean P.
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John
I tend to agree with you as well. I make a point to not apply silicon directly to the components or the PC board. Most ESCs and the KR timer are sealed covered in some type of heat shrink covering. I glue the covering material directly to the wood. Anyway as Dean pointed out there are several non corrosive adhesives that are available, my point is they can be used for mounting hardware.
Andy
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Since this is my first electroplane, I will go with conventional wisdom. I picked up some Velcro today.
Thanks for the input.