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Electric Stunt => Gettin all AMP'ed up! => Topic started by: Avaiojet on January 13, 2022, 11:31:57 AM
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I am impressed how modelers manage to get everything, that is, all of the electronics in place with minimum space available.
The space I have measures 3"H x 3"W x 3"D behind the motor firewall mounting square as seen in this photo. Behind the 7" in diameter firewall or former I have a bit more space, 3"W x 3"H in front tapering to 1" high at the bell crank. I'm thinking, just purchase all the smallest components? But how do you figure that out?
I also have space under the top of the fuselage, but I would have to cut a hole for a lid. This would allow for much greater space for equipment. I really don't want to cut a hatch.
Options or suggestions would be appreciated.
Charles
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You don't say how big the plane is or how heavy you expect it to come out. That would help people know how large the stuff is you need to stuff in there.
My first suggestion would be to see if you can rearrange things to mount the battery on the face of the firewall, to get the weight as far forward as you can. Then you just need ESC and timer or receiver in the box behind the firewall. As part of that, there's some quadcopter motors that are very high diameter and short for their power output and they turn slower than a "typical" model airplane motor -- I have not tried this, but it seems that'd be the bee's knees for a radial-engined model, getting the CG more forward and letting you run a bigger prop.
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You don't say how big the plane is or how heavy you expect it to come out. That would help people know how large the stuff is you need to stuff in there.
My first suggestion would be to see if you can rearrange things to mount the battery on the face of the firewall, to get the weight as far forward as you can. Then you just need ESC and timer or receiver in the box behind the firewall. As part of that, there's some quadcopter motors that are very high diameter and short for their power output and they turn slower than a "typical" model airplane motor -- I have not tried this, but it seems that'd be the bee's knees for a radial-engined model, getting the CG more forward and letting you run a bigger prop.
Tim,
Thanks for the reply. I mention in the Thread I'm using a Smoothie wing, but you're right, I don't believe I mentioned the span at 52", the fuselage without the cowling and rudder measures 27" the cowling is 7" in diameter, plenty of wood to sheet this fuselage.
I weighed this stuff just now,
Vertical stab and rudder: .7 OZ.
Balsa cowling ring: .9 OZ.
Sheeted fuselage, un-coved open bay wing, stab together, (they are assembled): 28.2 OZ.
Elevator: 1.2 OZ.
As far as the motor, I was thinking about the Badass 3520 because of the extra long prop shaft offered which can be purchased separately. I need the length to help recess the motor to allow for a faux radial.
Thanks again for the reply.
Charles
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C,
One thing I have done when trying to layout the E equipment is make blocks of foam to the dimension of the ESC, Timer and battery to move around and stick in place with double face tape. This lets you play with rough sizes without the wires getting in the way for the first cut layout. You do need to allow some room for the wires/connectors and positive on/off device.
Best, DennisT
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C,
One thing I have done when trying to layout the E equipment is make blocks of foam to the dimension of the ESC, Timer and battery to move around and stick in place with double face tape. This lets you play with rough sizes without the wires getting in the way for the first cut layout. You do need to allow some room for the wires/connectors and positive on/off device.
Best, DennisT
Den,
That's a good idea.
Exactly what is on board except for the motor and battery pack?
A list?
Charles
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An ESC, a timer with arming switch and an arming plug. The photos show the items mentioned, which is a Dreadnought I recently converted from a PA .75 to electric, so I had a lot of room to work with. I'm really pleased with the electric set up.
Don
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C,
In addition to the motor, ESC, battery, you will need room for:
- battery hold down/removal components
- Timer
- positive cut-off unit (I use a two-throw toddle switch from Home Depot)
- motor wiring connectors
- access to connect the ESC & Timer programmers
As you arrange the pieces you should figure on where the wires will go and how to secure them so they don't rub against any moving parts (motor leads against rotating can) and still give you access to connect programmer (timer and ESC). Not that hard but you need to plan for them.
Best, DennisT
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An ESC, a timer with arming switch and an arming plug. The photos show the items mentioned, which is a Dreadnought I recently converted from a PA .75 to electric, so I had a lot of room to work with. I'm really pleased with the electric set up.
Don
Don,
You did a really nice job there. You would never know the model was once IC.
Thanks for that.
Now I have to decide what to buy?
Charles
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C,
In addition to the motor, ESC, battery, you will need room for:
- battery hold down/removal components
- Timer
- positive cut-off unit (I use a two-throw toddle switch from Home Depot)
- motor wiring connectors
- access to connect the ESC & Timer programmers
As you arrange the pieces you should figure on where the wires will go and how to secure them so they don't rub against any moving parts (motor leads against rotating can) and still give you access to connect programmer (timer and ESC). Not that hard but you need to plan for them.
Best, DennisT
Den,
Thanks for that info and list.
I'll make some decisions on what to buy?
Charles