Is the balance point of most electric conversions closer to being very nose heavy?
And if so should electric converted models have the tail lengthened or the nose shortened ??
This is for 1/2 A models.
I'm just wondering before completing any ore models should anything be changed ?
Whats in my stable to build.
ringmaster 207
pathfinder 1/2 A
Midwest p63 .015 size
midwest bf109 .015 size

I'm confused as to why removing a large amount of the wings strength of spar in the center section is the preferred method of installation?
When I get a chance I'll post a photo of the mounting method I'm working on.
I just wonder why the nose isnit just made either shorter or the tail longer to balance the weights

Hi Jim,
The CG is quite far forward already for most of the old 1/2A designs with Cox engines like the Babe Bee, Black Widow etc. Flapless planes need the CG quite far forward anyway. The Babe Bee and variant's were rather elegant in that the fuel tank was neatly stuck on the back of the engine. Just add 4 screws and a few drops of liquid and off you go! Now e-power comes along and has so many extra things to hide and mostly they look so messy with all of the wires and components. Johns method of putting the battery in the wing is really the only way to go and it does not make the wing weaker. I made an attempt to neaten everything up and it worked rather well for my 1/2A Sparky project http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php/topic,37540.0.html

I used one of my Compact timers on one side behind the motor mounting, and the esc on the other. Some Velcro holds both in place. I have been thinking lately of doing a baby Yak with a radial cowl to cover these parts. Eric Rule has sent me a new flat small motor with the right Kv so I may just do that sometime soon. The e-power 1/2A's perform really well and you always get the motor to run well. I use the APC 6 x 5.5 E props to give decent ground clearance.

Keith R