all i'll say is that you definately get what you pay for.......

I started out using turnigy motors (cheap introduction into ECL) they lasted less than 3 months

I went to scorpion - so far so good  - have had one running for 2 years and it still seems OK HOWEVER

I am now using Plettenberg - and dont think I'll ever go back to anything else!!!!!

all i'll say is that you definately get what you pay for.......

I started out using turnigy motors (cheap introduction into ECL) they lasted less than 3 months

I went to scorpion - so far so good  - have had one running for 2 years and it still seems OK HOWEVER

I am now using Plettenberg - and dont think I'll ever go back to anything else!!!!!

Wynn,
Would you mind going into detail on why you like the Plettenberg motors?  Thanks.

Wynn,

What makes the Plettenberg worth about 90% more than the same sized AXI?

Wynn,
Would you mind going into detail on why you like the Plettenberg motors?  Thanks.

each to their own I guess - i dont really have an affinitity to plettenberg -  I jut like them- all the motors I have used (bar the turnigy) have been great - the Pletts just have something the others dont- maybe its like the "halo' effect.

Right now I'm trying to decide if I should just replace the SV 22 bearing or run them to failure to see how long they last. Either way I feel those bearings have served me well.

Hi Will,
I know I'm preaching to the converted on this but I had a bearing "Tighten Up" on my Boxcar Chief, (E-Power 2815/09) it all happened very quickly, I guess the Phoenix just pumped in more amps trying to maintain the RPM until it shut down. Fortunately??? I was inverted at the time so just ended up having to replace the vertical stab. I dread to think what would have happened had I been half way through a vertical 8 or O/H. If I had an SV 22 and I knew the bearings were a bit suspect I'd be straight down the bearing shop..

Like you say, treat em like glow plugs with the added advantage that once replaced as long as the motor has not been mistreated it will be like new again.

TTFN
John.
    

John and Dan,
Point well taken, I will not wait for failure,especially since this SV 22 is the best flying plane I ever built or owned. I will not wait for a failure. I do have one spare Scorpion set on hand and 2 more on the way. That way I can change out the two 100 flight plus be left with a spare set. As far as the Pletts go I have a few but only one is mounted at the moment. I have been flying a 15-18 in my SV 11, that i put in to test out and liked it alot. It is an extremely smooth running motor, with plenty of power. I do like Gov Mode which forces me to use the Shulze Speed Control, which is heavier than the Phx 45 and I have to carry an external BEC. I do pay A slight weight penalty but it really works well!!!!! If I can get my next plane a few ounces lighter I would use my Plett 20 series in it. I also barely fly the SV11. If your counting dollars then there is a much bigger penalty. I don't think most people will justify the cost for what most may not even be able to see in performance. The Pletts are well made but are not for everyone.I also believe some of the top fliers do have 500+ flights on their pletts. Again it comes down to what works best for you.

So far all we have talked about concerning "motor quality" is bearing life.  There are other factors which determine "motor quality" for sure.  What immediately comes to mind is efficiency. Or to say it a different way, how many watts out for how many watts in. The difference is used up as creating heat. For a given load (prop) how much current is  drawn. Makes a difference in how much batt. we use up.  I have heard of motors being rated at 80% efficiency.  Some may be more or less efficient.  Also I don't know if all motor manufacturers use the same method to calculate efficiency.  Probably not if it makes their motor look better in the specs they use their own method.  So what say you guys.  Surely there must be a guru or two lurking about. 

Tim

Thanks for your input.  I know you have been flying E-C/L for a couple of years now.  Have you found any particular brand of motors more prone to failure in your experience ?

Thanks for your input.  I know you have been flying E-C/L for a couple of years now.  Have you found any particular brand of motors more prone to failure in your experience ?

Dang.  I've been forgetting my disclaimers.  I think I assumed that everyone knew, but I forget that there's a constant influx of new people...

Actually -- if you discount some attempts in the early '80's -- I've been flying RC electric for about 15 years, and I've been doing engineering work on various aerospace and industrial applications involving electric motors for about 20.  So I have tons of knowledge that applies.

But I've only recently gotten back into the control line fold, and have yet free up an electric power system for flying on strings!  I'm also a tightwad, and tend to milk whatever I have for as long as it'll work.  I'm much more likely to identify the problems with something and rework it than I am to go out and s-s-s-s-p-p-p-end m-m-m-m-o-n-n-n-ey on hobby stuff.  So unless folks in my area start showing me stuff that they've crashed I'm not good for  for things that require me to have gone through a dozen different motors.  Theoretical knowledge -- yes.  Knowledge that transports well from industrial use -- yes (and our motors are a lot like industrial brushless motors in many ways).  Knowledge that transports well from RC use -- yes.  Specifics about particular brands -- nope.

In general, from what I've seen on the RC flying field, most of the motors show a strong correlation between quality and how much you pay for them: the really cheap stuff isn't manufactured to great precision, or they use cheaper adhesives, or they leave out dressings for the wires, etc., and it breaks faster.  I think the biggest single difference between RC and CL is that we tend to turn a lot tighter, so a motor that's otherwise good for 'zoomy fast' RC flying, or hotliner powered sailplanes, or RC scale, etc., may suffer from premature bearing failure when you start doing all those square maneuvers.  So what you're asking for -- specifics about brands -- is what I want to see, too.

(I'm tempted, in fact, to put an ad in the classifieds for broken motors -- I suspect that if you were willing to take the right mid-range motor apart and put it back together with better adhesives, bearings, materials, and possibly a bit of light machine work, you'd end up with something as good as a top of the line motor, for less $$.  But you'd have to try it out on several brands before you knew for sure, and that'd take a lot of energy).

Dennis

Good information !  About 300 flights on your Axi before bearing replacement.  Good yardstick.  And the oil sounds like a good practice also.  Just as long as we don't get the oil in places other than the bearing and cause other issues.  Are not these bearings sealed or at least shielded ?  Makes for more difficult job.  Maybe this extended tip gizzmo makes it easier.  Thanks for your good comments ! 

I oiled all of my motors after reading this thread. The bearings do not appear to be sealed.

Used a 1 cc syringe and a 1 1/2 inch 21 gauge needle. Easy to reach in the inside with a tiny drop.