Paul, Static runs are extra stressful for your electronics. Make sure that things (ESC, Motor and Battery) are not getting HOT!! If you are just trying to run your new battery through a few new cycles (so called break in cycles), use a smaller prop and lower RPM than you plan for flying. Do not discharge a Lipo battery beyond about 80% of stated capacity (70% is safer). It is almost a kind of deceptive advertising when a battery is labeled as 3300 mah because if you draw that all out you have a dead battery that generally will NOT take a charge!!
Do you have a Watt meter?? If not, that would be a good investment. You can put the meter between the battery and the ESC and determine how many amps you are pulling. Because the wires on my watt meter are fairly long I do NOT leave it in place for a long run. I just check the amps and then remove it from the circuit. Long wires (over 10 to 12 inches) are said to be hard on an ESC.
If you are trying to determine if your setup will give you X number of minutes flight time, do a short flight of say 3 minutes and check how much capacity (how many mah) is returned to the battery when you recharge it. You do this because you will find that the amount of drain is different during flight from that of a static run. Many variables come into play during flight such as unloading of the motor, changes in component temperature, wind etc. So the proof is in flying your setup and checking the battery drain. This is why the "list your setup" sticky thread at the top of the Electric section of the forum is so useful. There you can often find proven combinations of components for the same or a similar airframe to the one you are planning to use.
Hope this helps.