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Author Topic: Where to start?  (Read 1009 times)

Offline david beazley

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Where to start?
« on: November 25, 2010, 07:28:41 AM »
I am starting a Brodak P-51B profile (470sq/in rated for .28-.40 glow) and contemplating going electric.  I have some experience with RC electric and have soem NIB components.  I have an AXI 2826-8 motor and a Castle ICE 50 ESC.  I also have FMA 4-S charger.  I will need a 4-S battery and timer.  The questions I have is the motor to "hot" for CL stunt?  Will the controller handle it for CL?  What would be a good recomendation for a charger?  What size battery?  4S-3000MaH a good place to start?
Am I on the right track or just get a glow engine?
Thanks in advance.
Dave B.
It's only paranoia if they aren't really after you.
Analog man trapped in a digital world
AMA # 2817

Offline Wynn Robins

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Re: Where to start?
« Reply #1 on: November 25, 2010, 12:00:24 PM »
Hi David,

The motor you have may be a little big for the P51 Profile - only for the reason that you dont need one that big for the size plane you are building - you could almost get away with a 2820 if you built light.

With the 2826/8 you could get away with a 3S pack and still have enough RPM to get you going (given that the KV on the Axi is 1130 - max RPM 11.1 X 1130 = 12543 - and you will only need between 8000 - 95000 rpm to fly the Mustang. ( I might get flamed for this comment)

the capacity required generally relates to how heavy your plane ends up being - typically packs between 3000 and 4000mAh are sufficient.

I use the Zippy Flightmax packs from Hobby King - they are cheap and relatively good quality - the charger I use is also from Hobby King - Turnigy Accucell 8 - which is a great little charger - for under $70.





In the battle of airplane versus ground, the ground is yet to lose

Offline William DeMauro

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Re: Where to start?
« Reply #2 on: November 25, 2010, 02:23:46 PM »
Hi Dave,
 The 2826-14 is a bit large. I agree with Wynn. The Axi 2820-14 or similar (Scorpion 3020-890) would work perfect with 4S 3000 mah batteries on that. The Turnigy Nano series may be your best bet at the budget end.There are many lower cost "budget" type motors that will work well also. For the timer use the Will Hubin FM-9 setup. It is by far the easiest to use!!! Your charger is fine. Ice 50 is fine. For your prop use the APC thin electric 11x5.5 pusher at around 9500 rpm to start. I believe Dennis Adimisin has a bunch of these for sale. I'm sure others will chime in with very good suggestions too.
William
AMA 98010

Offline david beazley

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Re: Where to start?
« Reply #3 on: November 26, 2010, 06:23:50 AM »
Thanks for the responses.  I hate to sound ingorant but I am new to E/CL.  How does one set the rpm on the system?  Does the timer do that or do you need to get into the ESC programming to set rpm?  Also is there a primer on E/CL systems somewhere?  Also I do have an AXI 2820-12 in a little used RC job that could be brought into service.  Another question,  does anyone run any fusible links (auto fuse, etc) in their systems?  I saw a newby try the Eflite PT 19 CL job and nose over on take off and let all the smoke out of the motor or ESC (I didn't find out which).  With RC you can just cut the throttle but not so with CL.
It's only paranoia if they aren't really after you.
Analog man trapped in a digital world
AMA # 2817

Offline William DeMauro

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Re: Where to start?
« Reply #4 on: November 26, 2010, 07:32:30 AM »
Hi,
I ran the numbers using Castle link demo mode and with the 2820-12 which is a 990 kv motor you are good in the RPM range of 9300-12600 rpm on a 4 cell battery so if you run the 11x5.5 pusher or even one of the 11x4.5 pushers(not sure if they are still being made, Dennis Adimisin would know) you will be fine. The 4.5 would probably be slightly more efficient as it would run more into the "sweet spot" of the throttle curve. So bottom line,you have that motor already, use it. Don't use a fusible link as the castle controllers are already designed to shut down on a voltage spike and you don't need to introduce another possible point of failure into the system. As far as setting the RPM, if you run in Governor mode the RPM is set on the timer. If you run in "set rpm mode" its set on the speed control. Buy the FM-9 set up from Will Hubin and you are covered eather way. I run in Gov. Many others run in "set RPM". Both work very well.
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Offline Allan Perret

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Re: Where to start?
« Reply #5 on: November 26, 2010, 10:38:35 AM »
Hi,
I ran the numbers using Castle link demo mode and with the 2820-12 which is a 990 kv motor you are good in the RPM range of 9300-12600 rpm on a 4 cell battery so if you run the 11x5.5 pusher or even one of the 11x4.5 pushers(not sure if they are still being made, Dennis Adimisin would know) you will be fine. The 4.5 would probably be slightly more efficient as it would run more into the "sweet spot" of the throttle curve. So bottom line,you have that motor already, use it. Don't use a fusible link as the castle controllers are already designed to shut down on a voltage spike and you don't need to introduce another possible point of failure into the system. As far as setting the RPM, if you run in Governor mode the RPM is set on the timer. If you run in "set rpm mode" its set on the speed control. Buy the FM-9 set up from Will Hubin and you are covered eather way. I run in Gov. Many others run in "set RPM". Both work very well.
As an Industrial Instrument Tech I installed, calibrated, and maintained electronic governors on large steam turbines.  In a general sense a governor is a device which controls speed (RPM), so "Governor Mode" and "set RPM" sound like the same thing to me.  Obviously there is a difference as relates to various features available in model motor ESC's.  What is that difference we are talking about here ?
Allan Perret
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Slidell, Louisiana

Offline William DeMauro

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Re: Where to start?
« Reply #6 on: November 26, 2010, 12:06:38 PM »
Allen,
Gov mode and set rpm are kind of the same thing. In gov mode the Rpm is controlled off the timer in set rpm we set the program on the speedcontrol and we only have a choice of 3 preset settings off the timer. I am not an engineer or technician of any sort so I don't really understand why it work the way it does. I am just pretty good at taking what they give me and making it work well. I'm sure there are others out here that can explain the differences allot better than me. When I first started in this I used Set Rpm because I could set it on my computer and it was easily repeatable and always steady. Now with the programming box on the FM9 i can easily program my RPMs so flying in Gov mode has become totally simplified and I no longer need a laptop on the field if I want to change RPM.
William
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Offline John Rist

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Re: Where to start?
« Reply #7 on: November 26, 2010, 05:30:10 PM »
If it is just for fun why not set up an electronic throttle with insulated lines?  Not allowed in stunt competition but you may want to fly profile scale.  Also it would be different/fun at the flying field.

 #^
John Rist
AMA 56277

Offline Rudy Taube

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Re: Where to start?
« Reply #8 on: November 26, 2010, 10:05:30 PM »
Hi David,

If I was a new guy to ECL, I'd follow the excellent advice from Wynn and William. You will be a happy ECL flyer if you do.  #^

RE: the nose over issue. If you are using the very good Phoenix ICE ESC from Castle Creations, then go to the ESC set up mode called "Current Limiting" change the factory setting of "Normal" to the setting of "sensitive" or "very sensitive". This will shut off the ESC almost immediately in a nose over or other mishap. Like you said, without an RC TH control in the pilots hands, the "Normal" setting is not fast enough to turn off the ESC in ECL (Electric Control Line) before damage is done to the system. (please don't ask how I know this! ;-)  ..... Your ESC instructions should explain the above for any ESC you use.

BTW: you may want to use the "search" function (please see below). There are many informative threads on this forum. The "Setup" sticky thread on the 1st page of this E forum may prove very helpful too. Your ERC knowledge will be a big help to you! .... Welcome to the wonderful world of ECL.  :)

Hi Allan P.,

This forum has an excellent "search" function located in the far upper right corner of the page. You will find many threads explaining ESC use for our CL models. Here is another link that may help everyone looking for some basic info on ESCs for models:

              http://www.rcmdirect.co.uk/eshop/index.php?main_page=document_general_info&cPath=63&products_id=585   

There are many info links for ESCs, the Castle Creations web site has a lot of info too.

Hi John,

Please see "search" function above. There are threads covering your insulated line idea. :-) BTW: in CLPA you CAN use TH control, as long as this control is done through the lines, and/or it is done ONBOARD the plane. This has always been true, there was never an AMA CL rule against it. ..... It's just that the thicker lines make it difficult to be competitive in CLPA.       

Regards,  H^^
 
Rudy
AMA 1667

Offline david beazley

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Re: Where to start?
« Reply #9 on: November 27, 2010, 06:09:21 AM »
Looks like I will go with the 2820-12 and a 4S pack.  I have sent Will Hubin an email requesting a list of his CL products. 
Thanks for all the help.  I will keep everyone posted to my progress.
It's only paranoia if they aren't really after you.
Analog man trapped in a digital world
AMA # 2817


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