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Author Topic: Hope This Works Out! - Introduction to Electric  (Read 3560 times)

Offline Aaron Little

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Hope This Works Out! - Introduction to Electric
« on: December 24, 2010, 12:15:02 PM »
I have been interested in the Electric stuff for a bit now.
I have seen this auction come and go a few times.
I saw it come up for $129 buy it now and thought it may be worth a shot.

Anyone used this package?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rt=nc&nma=true&_rdc=1&item=390274651810&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fshop.ebay.com%3A80%2F%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dm570%26_nkw%3D390274651810%26_fvi%3D1&si=rbPh%252Fj4WRJ5zOOGLEF67C%252B9iNFo%253D&viewitem=


In case if that doesn't work it is this:
http://www.brodak.com/shop_productdetail.php?ProductID=8867
http://www.brodak.com/shop_productdetail.php?ProductID=8143

Let me know what you guys think, I hope I didn't waste $130!

Offline Bill Little

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Re: Hope This Works Out! - Introduction to Electric
« Reply #1 on: December 24, 2010, 12:46:33 PM »
And that's your "Christmas present from me! LL~  (part of it anyway ;D )

"Dad"
Big Bear <><

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Offline John Cralley

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Re: Hope This Works Out! - Introduction to Electric
« Reply #2 on: December 24, 2010, 04:15:51 PM »
Aaron,

If you got it for $130 you got a good deal. The Brodak Electric Super Clown is a great flying profile and Brodak wants a couple of hundred for the power package alone. The setup for the original Power package for the E Super Clown was marginal but the new one (if that is what it is) is quite adequate.

Seasons Greetings and a Happy New Year.
John Cralley
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AMA 52183
Central Illinois

Offline Aaron Little

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Re: Hope This Works Out! - Introduction to Electric
« Reply #3 on: December 24, 2010, 05:18:29 PM »
Aaron,

If you got it for $130 you got a good deal. The Brodak Electric Super Clown is a great flying profile and Brodak wants a couple of hundred for the power package alone. The setup for the original Power package for the E Super Clown was marginal but the new one (if that is what it is) is quite adequate.

Seasons Greetings and a Happy New Year.

This is the contents of the "power-train" portion:


I hope that is the right one!

Offline Bill Little

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Re: Hope This Works Out! - Introduction to Electric
« Reply #4 on: December 25, 2010, 10:24:17 AM »
Hi John,

Aaorn has a CEAT degree, so he is MUCH more intelligent on this subject.  The only real knowledge I have in "electrical" things is from a construction stand point.  Wiring water heaters and such! LOL!!  But I did do a ton of Slot racing back in the day, does that count? LL~ LL~

Since we do this hobby in pretty much as a "team collaboration" I am hoping that many of the members here will chime in with whatever suggestions, etc,. they may have after the Christmas dinner wears off.  And coming at it from a stand point that no one has ever even SEEN a battery or electric motor.  Starting at the BASIC BASICS are a good way to do it.

Also, searching the topic here will be a moot point for me.  If I search and find every written word on this web site, and have no knowledge of what is being said, it might as well all be written in hieroglyphics! ;D

Merry Christmas!
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Offline Tim Wescott

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Re: Hope This Works Out! - Introduction to Electric
« Reply #5 on: December 25, 2010, 10:39:59 AM »
Aaorn has a CEAT degree, so he is MUCH more intelligent on this subject.

What's a CEAT degree?

Quote
The only real knowledge I have in "electrical" things is from a construction stand point.  Wiring water heaters and such! LOL!!  But I did do a ton of Slot racing back in the day, does that count? LL~ LL~

Yes, slot racing does count, to some extent.  Keep the friction down, know what a bad bearing sounds like, know how to identify a wire that's broken inside its insulation and how to solder, etc.
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The problem with electric is that once you get the smoke generator and sound system installed, the plane is too heavy.

Offline Bill Little

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Re: Hope This Works Out! - Introduction to Electric
« Reply #6 on: December 25, 2010, 10:51:11 AM »
What's a CEAT degree?

Yes, slot racing does count, to some extent.  Keep the friction down, know what a bad bearing sounds like, know how to identify a wire that's broken inside its insulation and how to solder, etc.

Merry Christmas Tim!

Computer Engineering and Applications Technologies. ;D    (he's an "idiot savant" when it comes to computers.  I can say that, I am his Dad! LL~ )

Been soldering since I was literally 6 years old (over five decades! LOL!!) so that's taken care of! LL~  It's batteries, timers, ESC's, etc., and charging Lipo batteries in an ammo can,.... that stuff I don't have knowledge of.  ;D

I've soldered plenty of circuit boards, etc, but it was all with directions of what is to be done.  And if I ever take anything apart I can put it back together.  The "physical part" of construction of basically ANYTHING has never stumped me.  However, I have no background WHATSOEVER in electrical "engineering".  Going back to college to get a degree in  Electrical Engineering is something I will not take the time for now, at my age! LL~ LL~ LL~

Merry Christmas!
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Offline John Cralley

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Re: Hope This Works Out! - Introduction to Electric
« Reply #7 on: December 25, 2010, 04:19:15 PM »
Aaron and Bill,

Looks like you got the new "Turn Key" version of the Brodak power train! That's good!! Aaron may not need any help, but Bill why don't you go to this link for a pretty good explanation of electric control line for those who don't want to pursue an EE degree.

http://controlline.org.uk/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=6268

Cheers, John
John Cralley
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Offline Bill Little

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Re: Hope This Works Out! - Introduction to Electric
« Reply #8 on: December 25, 2010, 04:25:23 PM »
Thanks Brother John!

I'll check it out.  Learning all this won't really be too tough I don't think.  Just learning the nomenclature!  Some of it makes no common sense. ;D  (why isn't a 4 cell battery called 4C instead of 4S??????  LL~ LL~ LL~)

Thanks, again,
Bill
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Offline Aaron Little

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Re: Hope This Works Out! - Introduction to Electric
« Reply #9 on: December 25, 2010, 04:53:35 PM »

One big question I have right now is about batteries.
Obviously I will need more than one because pops is going to want to try a few flights as well.
I saw some on hobbycity.com for cheap but I do not know exactly what to get.
2600mah?  3300 mah?  2s 3s 4s????

Offline John Cralley

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Re: Hope This Works Out! - Introduction to Electric
« Reply #10 on: December 25, 2010, 08:09:09 PM »
Aaron,

OK. The battery that Brodak supplies is basically a 20C 3S 3300 mah Li-po battery. The Hobby King equal is the Turnigy 20C 3S 3300 Li-Po:

https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=14957

This one is available from their "USA Warehouse" so shipping and delivery time would be less than from China. They list it for $19.95 but you would likely have to either replace the connector plug or make an adapter plus I'm not sure if the balancing plug would connect to Brodak's charger or if you would need an adapter for that also. In addition, you will need to check the dimensions of the Turnigy battery to make sure that it would fit in the battery pocket in the wing of the Super Clown. You can likely get the correct plugs and or adapters from your Local Hobby Shop the caters to RC electric fliers.

You might well be get by with fewer mah say 2650 or 3000 which would weigh less but which might require that you reduce your flight time.

Surely someone on this forum has personal experience with the Brodak Electric Super Clown and can chime in here. Warren Leadbeatter from Australia has an E Super Clown listed under the "List Your Set Up" sticky thread at the top of this electric forum (reply #43). PM or Email him and he may be able to help.

John
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Offline Will Hubin

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Re: Hope This Works Out! - Introduction to Electric
« Reply #11 on: December 25, 2010, 08:52:08 PM »
Bill,

(why isn't a 4 cell battery called 4C instead of 4S)
  It's because the cells are wired internally in series. Since the nominal voltage of a LiPo cell is 3.7 volts under light load, it is a nominal 14.8V battery. They can also be wired in parallel internally, to increase their charge capacity, and then their voltage isn't increased.

Offline Bill Little

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Re: Hope This Works Out! - Introduction to Electric
« Reply #12 on: December 25, 2010, 09:03:04 PM »
Bill,

(why isn't a 4 cell battery called 4C instead of 4S)
 It's because the cells are wired internally in series. Since the nominal voltage of a LiPo cell is 3.7 volts under light load, it is a nominal 14.8V battery. They can also be wired in parallel internally, to increase their charge capacity, and then their voltage isn't increased.


Thanks, Will!  I'm learning!  I understand series/parallel.  We used to wire our door bell batteries in parallel to give the plug a bit more juice when we were kids.  And when they were really going dead, we would wire them in series to get a few extra flights before we trashed them.  They would get so dead that they would barely light a new glow plug! LOL!    

Common sense would tell me to call them 4C-S. LOL!! 4 Cells in Series. ;D   But I know now that the "4" (or 2 or 3) will mean the number of cells, and now I know that the "S" means Series.

I catch on very quickly once I get the explanations.

What's this we've heard of charging Lipo cells in old ammo cans?  I have plenty with the locking lids, big ones (.50 cal), small ones (30 cal) and can come up with some 20MM probably, but are they THAT BAD to blow?

Thanks for you time!
Bill
« Last Edit: December 31, 2010, 09:08:06 AM by Bill Little »
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Offline Rudy Taube

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Re: Hope This Works Out! - Introduction to Electric
« Reply #13 on: December 26, 2010, 01:59:26 AM »
Hi Bill,

Thanks to the wonderful guys like Sparky, Bill Little, and the others that created and run this wonderful Forum for us, we have a great search feature up in the right hand corner at the top of the page. It allows us to access the many important topics that have already been covered. Many of us find it very useful.  LL~ LL~ LL~

I'm sorry Bill, I could not resist!  ;)

Here is a sample that may address some of your safety questions:

     http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=19395.0

No, "our batteries are not that bad to blow". It is EXTREMELY RARE to have any problems. As I have mentioned in the past, most of the problems happened years ago when LiPos were new and people were still charging them with NiCad chargers, which is very unsafe. I highly recommend that ECL flyers stay away from small cheap chargers and use good quality chargers that cost around min. $70 on up and are designed for LiPo charging with a balancing feature. This, along with some easy to do precautions, will insure safe charging.

The next most important thing we can do is use the LARGE size LipoSack I mentioned in the post shown above. There are now MILLIONS of these Li-Ion-Poly batteries like ours in safe use today throughout the world. They are very, very safe.  y1

Your ammo cans make very good charging containers and they also make excellent storage and transport containers for the ultimate in safety. This may be overkill, but they are a strong, safe, bullet proof solution. 

The battery labeling people already used up the "C" designation in referring to the "C"harge rate and the dis"C"harge rate, what we now call the C rating, as in a 4S 25C 3,800 mAh battery. (4 cells in Series that can be discharged at a very fast rate of 25 times the batteries 3,800 mAh, or in about 2.5 minutes).

PS: I am very happy to see that one of our CL leaders is interested in going toward the light and getting his family interested in E-CLPA. Who knows, maybe we will see a trend. This must be what it was like when the top people left ignition behind and moved to glow engines, ...... ah those were the days.  ;)

Warm Regards,  H^^
« Last Edit: December 26, 2010, 03:26:05 AM by Rudy Taube »
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Online Dennis Adamisin

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Re: Hope This Works Out! - Introduction to Electric
« Reply #14 on: December 26, 2010, 08:50:07 AM »
First off my Deeetroit Lions win two make that THREE-in-a row.  Now you tell me Brother Big Bear got ECL?  I am still being bewildered.  I will also be wordy

Oh yeah, better watch out for the Redneck Mountain Mafia!  

A bit of history.  My family's first ECL consisted of the original Brodak Super Clown system transplanted into a ARF Oriental.  We even used the original non-adjustable ESC & timer and control flight speed by using long lines and some prop-artistry.  Even then it worked far better than it should have!  Passed it on to Archie (Arch 3 in family shorthand) and he really worked it out.  The biggest problem was with the timer & ESC not giving any control.  He switched over to a Kontronik, and then a Phoenix ESC with allowed for "governing" then switched to a JMP timer, then to a Hubin timer. Once the throttle settings were controllable, it was easy to switch from the 9x4.5 to a 10x5; even tried an 11x5.5 but it was not a good match for the short tailed Oriental.  Last change was just this last spring when we finally replaced the original battery pack with the new packs, also scoring a 2.5 oz weight save.   The final iteration: Brodak "red" motor, Phoenix 45, Hubin FM-2SR timer, and Arrowind 3Sx3300 pack turning a 10x5 APC electric prop was as good a system as you could find - Think of it as the BEST OS-35 you ever had and one that never wavered flight to flight and day to day.

When it came out the Brodak system was a heck of an attempt to bring out a turn-key system - but the state of the art quickly passed it by.  Lack of throttle adjustment, a too small charger and expensive but poor quality batteries showed the need for improvements.  Final straw came when even the motor (the best part of the system) was no longer available!

OK now flash forward.

As others have pointed out the package you have is the Brodak Super Clown system, the one recently designed (uh, by me) to replace the original system. When compared to the original system, the motor is somehat larger/stronger, the battery much improved, the ESC is a standard unit and the timer now lets you adjust speed from roughly 6.5 sec per lap to 4.5 sec per lap and flight time from 1:45 to 6:00.  It also now comes with a 9x4.5 prop, I think the original came with an 8x4.  The charger/balancers is also vastly improved.


A bit more detail:
* The new motor is an Arrowind 2815 with kv=1300.  Compared to the original motor (the one we used in the Oriental) the new motor is .5 oz heavier because it has a larger diameter and longer commutator and longer magnets - ie, more power!  It is also a lower KV (1300 v 1500) so that it will deliever its power in the RPM ranges we like.  For ECL that makes it work well with a 3-cell or 3S battery.  It is at its best with a 9"-11" prop. The new motor was special built by Arrowind with a special end bell that mates with the original red-motor mounting pattern as used in the Super Clown.  We still have plans to try this motor in the Oriental, but that bird was severely damaged last summer so those plans are on hold...

* The new battery is an Arrowind 3Sx3300 pack.  This replaces the troublesome 3Sx4000 pack used in the original Brodak Electric Super Clown.  The E-Clown calls for slipping the battery into a pocket built into wing - thus necessitating the very thin (18mm) 3 cell "wafer" pack.  If you are NOT using the power system in a Brodak Super Clown then you can build what ever size/shape battery box you want and any 3S pack (get at least a 3000 mah capacity) will do.  3-4 packs will let you fly pretty much as long as you want, especially if you are sharing the circle with 1-2 others.

* The new ESC is an Arrowind 35A unit that comes pre-wired.  It has some programmable features like soft start, cut-off voltage and reversing the rotation, the one that matter the most to us though is that it was a prop brake - when the power shuts off the ESC will stop the prop - a really nice thing to have when you are gliding down at the end of the flight!  This ESC is a normal RC unit and as such does not do any "governing" and does not adjust for the battery voltage

* The Timer is a Hubin FM-0c with battery compensation.  At start-up, you push the start button and you get about a 1 second blip of motor powering up, then it stops.  There is a 15 second delay alllowing you to walk to the center of the circle, grab the handle and stooge line, and wait for the motor to start.  Once the motor starts you have your flight time, from 1:45 (great for test flights) to 6:00 (about 45 sec more than you need for a pattern).  As the flight goes on and the battery gets worn down some, the motor RPM would normally slack off.  However this timer adds throttle over the course of the flight and pretty well maintains flight speed to the end.  Oh yeah, 5 sec before the end of flight time you get a momentary blip to let you get ready to land.

* Finally, the Charger/Balancer you have is designed to peak charge and balance from 2 cells to 4 cell packs.  The charge rate is adjustable to a max of 2.0A.  The neat thing about it is the simplicity - just plug the balance connector into the appropriate socket and let -t go.  It will give you the status of the charge in percentages on a cell by cell basis, the LED changes from red to green as each cell peaks out.

* The system as you have it will do a nice job on a sport model and I have used it in OTS.  It will also do a pretty good job in a full stunt model but it will not "govern" so in the wind it will be no better than a wet power system.  For a full "PRO" system you should consider upgrading the ESC to a Castle Phoenix 45 or ICE 50 Lite with a Hubin FM-2SR timer.  Fit that up to your new Airon and you will be in business!
« Last Edit: December 26, 2010, 09:08:32 PM by Dennis Adamisin »
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Offline Aaron Little

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Re: Hope This Works Out! - Introduction to Electric
« Reply #15 on: December 26, 2010, 09:02:32 AM »

Wow sounds cool!
I was worried because the deal seemed to good to be true but looks like this may turn out to be a fun experiment.

This motor, will it turn a bigger than 9" prop?
What would it equate to "glow motor" size?  I think maybe a Max 35s?
Could we fly a Brodak warbird profile with it?

Anyway having been friends with Robby Hunt for some time, I have been talking to him off and on and been getting excited about electric.

Aaron

Online Dennis Adamisin

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Re: Hope This Works Out! - Introduction to Electric
« Reply #16 on: December 26, 2010, 09:33:25 AM »
Aaron: WELCOME to ECL!

The power system will work GREAT in the Brodak Warbird series.  I'd start with the 10x5E APC, then for a real trip, get the 11x4.5 or 11x5.5 pusher and clip it to 10".  You will NEVER fly a normal rotation prop again!

Actually you should be able to turn the 11" prop, but I think the Warbird Series airplanes may fly better with 10" props - your experiment awaits!

The biggest obstacle you MIGHT have to overcome is locating the battery and getting the CG right.  I like putting the battery on the i/b side of a profile when I can - makes it easier to retain too.  You will probably have to nestle the battery into the LE of the wing a little too. 

I have lots of experinece with OS 35s' - the power system you have will be at least as good as the BEST 35s you every had...
Denny Adamisin
Fort Wayne, IN

As I've grown older, I've learned that pleasing everyone is impossible, but pissing everyone off is a piece of cake!

Offline Aaron Little

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Re: Hope This Works Out! - Introduction to Electric
« Reply #17 on: December 26, 2010, 09:36:13 AM »
Aaron: WELCOME to ECL!

The power system will work GREAT in the Brodak Warbird series.  I'd start with the 10x5E APC, then for a real trip, get the 11x4.5 or 11x5.5 pusher and clip it to 10".  You will NEVER fly a normal rotation prop again!

Actually you should be able to turn the 11" prop, but I think the Warbird Series airplanes may fly better with 10" props - your experiment awaits!

The biggest obstacle you MIGHT have to overcome is locating the battery and getting the CG right.  I like putting the battery on the i/b side of a profile when I can - makes it easier to retain too.  You will probably have to nestle the battery into the LE of the wing a little too. 

I have lots of experinece with OS 35s' - the power system you have will be at least as good as the BEST 35s you every had...

Well thanks again.
I do realize this is more of a "sport" package but again it's cool to just play with it and see how it all works.
I remember being at Brodaks I think it was 2003 when Mike Palko flew electric and it was the first time I had ever saw it, it was a "demo" flight and I wondered if it would ever catch on.

Also the best OS35s we have had is a Big Art OS35s :)

Offline Bill Little

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Re: Hope This Works Out! - Introduction to Electric
« Reply #18 on: December 26, 2010, 10:07:14 AM »
Thanks, Brother Denny,  and Rudy!

Denny,  I am glad you have responded since I knew you "developed" the package Aaron will be getting (when ever the package arrives!).

A complete switch over to E-flight will probably be very slow.  I have hoarded quite a few IC engines over the years and obtaining new "packages" would be an exercise in "saving up money".  Or I could get a part time job! LOL!!

BUT!  This package will give us a starting point to "see what it's all about", while realizing there are much more options available.

Thanks to all who have responded!

Big Bear
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Online Dennis Adamisin

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Re: Hope This Works Out! - Introduction to Electric
« Reply #19 on: December 26, 2010, 10:31:14 AM »
Thanks, Brother Denny,  and Rudy!

Denny,  I am glad you have responded since I knew you "developed" the package Aaron will be getting (when ever the package arrives!).

A complete switch over to E-flight will probably be very slow.  I have hoarded quite a few IC engines over the years and obtaining new "packages" would be an exercise in "saving up money".  Or I could get a part time job! LOL!!

BUT!  This package will give us a starting point to "see what it's all about", while realizing there are much more options available.

Thanks to all who have responded!

Big Bear

Actually you might be surprised at what the change-over costs are.  Prices are really coming down too - especially on batteries and chargers.  There is a lot of big money being spent on making beter batteries for trucks, cars, computers - and RC stuff that all trickles down.  Quality is going up and costs are going down - nice tradeoff!

There are a couple tricks you and Aaron can do together - like standardizing on a flight system and sharing batteries and such.  WRT costs, size matters.  If you stick with a 40 sized power system you can control your costs better than with a 60 sized system.  No real surprse there either. 
 
Denny Adamisin
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Offline Bill Little

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Re: Hope This Works Out! - Introduction to Electric
« Reply #20 on: December 26, 2010, 11:17:25 AM »
Hi Denny,

I have seen the prices dropping, and I am sure the area is like anything else "electronic".  Things just get bigger, better, and cheaper as more and more are used.

It's all simply a "Budget" matter in this "old Mountain Red Neck's" home! LOL!! 

The days of a TF GB Nobler on sale at Sky Town for $7.95, a Fox .35 for $9.95 and Testors Dope for $2 in the 4 oz. bottle are long gone! LOL!!  But the budget hasn't made great strides to keep up........  Living in NC is cheap "compared", some places REAL CHEAP, but so is the wages that State employees are paid!  So "retirement" on the State System will get us by, ok, as long as we stay where we are, expenses are really suspect to close scrutiny! LL~ 

Enough of the sob story.........  I am not homeless, or without "income". LL~  Looking forward to getting that set up going. ;D

Big Bear
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Offline PatRobinson

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Re: Hope This Works Out! - Introduction to Electric
« Reply #21 on: December 26, 2010, 05:16:13 PM »
Question for Dennis A????
Dennis,
What range of plane is this Brodak system appropriate for? - Is it most workable for a small plane like the RSM kit of Mackey's "Blue Bird" or does is it more optimal for a middle size plane like Ares /Nobler or can it handle up to a low 600 sq" plane like a Steve Wooley "Cobra". I guess I'm wondering at what point do you need to move up to the next size Brodak system? Assuming that you are picky and can build fairly light airframes? (I know I've read about people who can do stuff like that.)  Anyway, I was just wondering?
                                                                                  Pat Robinson

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Re: Hope This Works Out! - Introduction to Electric
« Reply #22 on: December 26, 2010, 09:01:09 PM »
Hi Pat

The system Aaron has here is at its best with a 10" prop - thus use it anywhere you would have used a Fox 35 or OS 35s like most "Classic" sized birds.  It will work nicely in the Bluebird but there is a smaller Brodak system that does great with 9" props that might work better there and score about a 2 oz system weight save.  The battery is also a shorter stouter shape that should fit better.

For the Bluebird (374 sq in)
* Arrowind 2810 Motor            Brodak #BH-1842
* Arrowind 4Sx2200 Battery     Brodak #BH-1888
* Arrowind ESC 40A                Brodak #BH-1860
* Hubin FM-0c                       Brodak #BH-1869
* Prop: APC 9x4.5 E.  Try a "tractor" (normal rotation) first then switch to the "pusher"

For the 600 sq in bird I would go up in size to the "40" sized system that would let you comfortably swing an 11"-12" prop:
* Arrowind 2820 Motor            Brodak #BH-1839
* Arrowind 4Sx2800 Battery     Brodak #BH-1847
* Castle ICE 50 Lite ESC          Brodak #BH-1864
* Hubin FM-2SR Timer             Brodak #BH-1870
* Prop: APC 11x5.5 E Pusher
Denny Adamisin
Fort Wayne, IN

As I've grown older, I've learned that pleasing everyone is impossible, but pissing everyone off is a piece of cake!

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Re: Hope This Works Out! - Introduction to Electric
« Reply #23 on: December 30, 2010, 08:57:12 PM »

Got the package today.

I was a little disappointed that there was no "wall wart" for the battery charger.
It did come with alligator clips, could I use the 12v battery that came with our electric starter to charge?

OR can I use this wal-mart "wall wart" that is selectable from 2-12v or so output, it reads a pretty steady 11v output on my meter.
Packaging says use a 9-12 (or 15v) supply.

I hope this all makes sense and someone can help me get a steady power supply for the charger.

Aaron

Online Dennis Adamisin

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Re: Hope This Works Out! - Introduction to Electric
« Reply #24 on: December 30, 2010, 09:22:59 PM »
Hi Aaron

The charger needs a couple amps input too, your starter battery can't handle that - but a car battery can.  Ditto the wall warts, which usually only put out a few hundred mah.  There are dedicated power supplys that work well, or you can even liberate one out of an old PC.

* Examples of power supply: Go to Tower, search "pwer suppyt, you will get something like this:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWGU7&P=ML

* Here's an article on rscuing PC Power Supplies:
http://web2.murraystate.edu/andy.batts/ps/POWERSUPPLY.HTM

The topic has come up in the forum, a search here will likely add a few more ideas...
« Last Edit: December 31, 2010, 07:52:42 AM by Dennis Adamisin »
Denny Adamisin
Fort Wayne, IN

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Offline Bill Little

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Re: Hope This Works Out! - Introduction to Electric
« Reply #25 on: December 30, 2010, 09:33:15 PM »
Just got off the phone with Aaron.  He's a lot more knowledgeable in "electronics", so when he said he didn't have a power source, I didn't know what he was talking about.  remember I am of the age that when Aaron (35 years old now) got his first computer, it was my first computer, also.  He was ahead of the game.  

(extraneous content removed!)

No offense to any individual meant.  (and I don't even expect this to be read by more than maybe a couple people!)

Happy New year!
« Last Edit: December 31, 2010, 09:10:41 AM by Bill Little »
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Online Dennis Adamisin

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Re: Hope This Works Out! - Introduction to Electric
« Reply #26 on: December 31, 2010, 08:09:46 AM »
Hi Bill

I added a couple links to my earlier post about power supplies.

As an aside, do not let the "newness" intimidate you, everything is pretty much "plug & pray" now.  Remember when you got your first IC engine, someone told you, "Go to this store and buy this engine and this fuel tank and this fuel and this battery and these battery leads and fuel line and filter and..." remember the drill?  Then you had to go out and actually LEARN how to use it.  I think by comparison E-power systems are far simpler, and the system Aaron has is complete and ready to use, your airplane awaits..!

Its a bad habit to slip into "jargon" Sorry if I let that happen (again!)  HB~>  HB~>  HB~>
Denny Adamisin
Fort Wayne, IN

As I've grown older, I've learned that pleasing everyone is impossible, but pissing everyone off is a piece of cake!

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Re: Hope This Works Out! - Introduction to Electric
« Reply #27 on: December 31, 2010, 08:51:24 AM »
Thanks, Denny.  It's no one personally that I can "point out". LOL  You're not "guilty", so I haven't sentenced you! LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yeah, I had to "learn" the "old stuff", but that was a lot of "stuff" that I was already kinda familiar with at 12 or 13 when I really got into this "stuff".  I had seen different IC engines torn down and rebuilt, helping out along the way, (popped off my first 5/8th" shank head bolt around that time LEARNED how to "fix that" and not to do it again! ROTFLMBO!!!!)) so that wasn't nearly as hard to grasp.

Never seen any electrons running around the universe though. ( LOL!!)  Had "felt them" long before my beginning w/ C/L IC engines, though!  A little bit of shock along the way.....

Positive, Negative, Ground,............... got that.  %^@  :##   n~

"Doom, despair and agony on me! Deep, Dark, Depression and constant misery!"  HB~>

Bad part is, if I really decide to go with some electric "motors" to power these little toy airplanes, I will learn what's up.  I'll know what the difference is between a Plattenberg and a flux capacitor...........  LL~

Just hope no one thinks Aaron is as deranged and demented as  I am!   ~^  ~>  VD~

(Hmmmmm...... do the words curmudgeon and foment come to mind????)

Wow, I sorta feel a "little" better now..  wish the diabetes didn't forbid imbibing once every full moon..... I think I could scare up my Mom's Dad's recipe and a "tiny little cooking pot w/cooling station" would fit in the basement...... smooth

IN reality, it all seems a "little like *We're off to see the Wizard*

Happy New Year from old whatever my name is!
Big Bear <><

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Re: Hope This Works Out! - Introduction to Electric
« Reply #28 on: December 31, 2010, 09:05:54 AM »

I think we have a car battery charger.
Is it possible to connect that to the batter charger?

Offline Bill Little

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Re: Hope This Works Out! - Introduction to Electric
« Reply #29 on: December 31, 2010, 09:14:25 AM »
I think we have a car battery charger.
Is it possible to connect that to the batter charger?

Just so the "specs" of the "charger" are known to anyone responding:

it has the 2 amp trickle setting, a 10 amp setting, and a "Quick Crank it up" (50 amp LOL!!) setting.  I also have a "Jump Charger" that you "charge the batteries in and then carry it around".  Not sure what the amp rating is, but it will jump a dead car battery.

Any help for you guys?

"Dad"
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Offline Rudy Taube

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Re: Hope This Works Out! - Introduction to Electric
« Reply #30 on: December 31, 2010, 02:49:57 PM »
Hi Aron and Bill,

Our LiPo battery chargers like to have a stable 12V power supply. I think others have tried the car chargers and they did not work. I have not tried one so I don't know for sure. Maybe some who have tried one will step in here to tell us. I would hold off using one, and risk damaging your charger, until you know for sure.

Your car battery works fine. Then you can just use your car battery charger to top it off. ;-)

There are several solutions:

1.  A dedicated 12V power supply that uses 120V AC from your wall outlet. Here is one of the best for our ECL use, and at a good price, $69.90 : 
         
             http://www.progressiverc.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&amp;page=shop.browse&amp;category_id=2&amp;Itemid=1

2. A 12 V battery. A deep cycle Marine battery is best, but expensive. A regular 12V car battery dedicated to our use is fine, and can be taken to the field, but heavy. Mike Palko uses this solution at the field, but he is young and strong.  ;)  I use two 12V 18 amp wheel chair batteries for my one field that does not have AC power. They are lighter and work fine. I use one to power each charger so I can charge two batteries at once.

3. Tower makes a very nice "combo" charger that can use a 12V input, or 120AC as it has it's own 12V power supply inside the charger. The one below is great for most of our ECL systems, and is very convenient. At $200 it is just a little more than a standard charger and a 12V power supply 120AC unit. They make a little brother to this one, but it is NOT powerful enough to charge our ECL batteries fast enough. Here is the link:

            http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVZA8&P=ML

4. FWIW: The new generation of LiPo batteries can be charged at very fast rates, like full charge in 14 min. instead of the normal 56 min. This is nice, but it requires a serious (read: expensive) balancing charger and a serious power supply both providing at least 250 Watts of output power. For those starting in ECL I don't think it is worth paying for this level of charging power, unless you are sure ECL is for you. Our normal chargers will not safely handle these high balanced charge rates, but for most ECL flyers they are just fine.

5. If you use your car battery to get started charging your LiPos, this will be OK but please use a LiPoSack for safety. Go here to get one:

          http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXCH7&P=ML

Regards,  H^^           
Rudy
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Re: Hope This Works Out! - Introduction to Electric
« Reply #32 on: December 31, 2010, 06:14:41 PM »

OK been reading over the setup there on Stuka Stunt.

It looks like they were only using the 5v connectors how is that making the 12v the picture shows.
(I know a little about electronics, mostly from working on guitar amps and guitar pedals on the other hand, my father can stretch things sometimes :) )

It doesn't look to terribly difficult just wondering how exactly the 12v is showing up and where the two resistors go.

Aaron

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Re: Hope This Works Out! - Introduction to Electric
« Reply #33 on: December 31, 2010, 06:29:53 PM »
Quote
on the other hand, my father can stretch things sometimes ;D

LL~ LL~ LL~

Well, then, where did all that money we spent on your first college education go???? LOL! (you did work in computer repair a while while going to school, and had all those tools to do it with, and you can always fix my computer!)   LOL!!!!!!!

J/K

"Father"
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Offline Tim Wescott

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Re: Hope This Works Out! - Introduction to Electric
« Reply #34 on: December 31, 2010, 06:36:24 PM »
OK been reading over the setup there on Stuka Stunt.

It looks like they were only using the 5v connectors how is that making the 12v the picture shows.

I'm not sure what you mean by "5V connectors"  The main connectors have 12V on them as well as 5V.

Quote
It doesn't look to terribly difficult just wondering how exactly the 12v is showing up and where the two resistors go.

A PC power supply makes tons of 3.3V and 5V to run a PC, and a little bit of 12V for disk drives and such.  The 12V supply is a byproduct of the 5V supply.  So if you want to use a PC power supply to make 12V it has to make some power at 5V.  That's what the resistors do -- they're connected across the 5V supply, to load it up and get it going strongly enough to generate 12V.

Note that the pictures are of a power supply that has been rewired internally, but you can do it all at the plug if you don't mind a mess of wires.
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Re: Hope This Works Out! - Introduction to Electric
« Reply #35 on: December 31, 2010, 06:40:14 PM »
I'm not sure what you mean by "5V connectors"  The main connectors have 12V on them as well as 5V.

OK, I was looking at the wiki page with the pinout.  It shows the "red wires" as 5v.
It looks like Kim used the red wires.

A PC power supply makes tons of 3.3V and 5V to run a PC, and a little bit of 12V for disk drives and such.  The 12V supply is a byproduct of the 5V supply.  So if you want to use a PC power supply to make 12V it has to make some power at 5V.  That's what the resistors do -- they're connected across the 5V supply, to load it up and get it going strongly enough to generate 12V.

Note that the pictures are of a power supply that has been rewired internally, but you can do it all at the plug if you don't mind a mess of wires.

I was going to more than likely just snip out the wires from the plug that goes into the motherboard and use only the wires I needed.
If I am thinking correctly you do this?
Brown to orange
Green to a black

NOW here is where I was wondering, Is it Red - Resistor - Resistor - to connector?
It makes sense that black would go to the ground with nothing else needed.

Aaron

Offline John Cralley

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Re: Hope This Works Out! - Introduction to Electric
« Reply #36 on: December 31, 2010, 08:07:43 PM »
Aaron,

Here are some references for you. I am (and have been for several years) using an AT (not an ATX) power supply from an old computer to power my Li-po charger.

http://www.marcee.org/Articles/PCPowerSupply.htm

http://web2.murraystate.edu/andy.batts/ps/POWERSUPPLY.HTM

The PC supply works fine with my Cell Pro 4 Charger.

John
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