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Electric Stunt => Gettin all AMP'ed up! => Topic started by: Perry Rose on January 10, 2020, 09:06:54 AM
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What's the best way to tighten the propeller nut when using a collett style prop adapter? In other words how do you stop the motor from turning as you tighten the prop nut??
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On a profile I just grab the motor. On a full body I hold the prop.
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Hi Perry
This is how I do it:
* Take the washers off the adapter, then install the nut down at least 1/4" from the end of the threads. Slip a thin 6" scale into the slotted part of the adapter then clamp the nut into a vice.
* File a flat on the tip of the adapter - just file off the threads. Rotate the adapter shaft 180 degrees and file a flat on the other side.
* Carefully remove the nut, it may resist a little the first time when it gets to the filed-of threads, you might want to go back & forth a few times until it turns smoothly.
* with the flats on opposite sides of the adapter shaft it's a cinch to hold the shaft with a adjustable wrench or even a set of pliers while tightening the nut.
This method PREVENTS the adapter shaft from sliding on the motor shaft or the prop from sliding on the washer. The only thing you have to watch for is to NOT overtighten!
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Hi Perry
This is how I do it:
* Take the washers off the adapter, then install the nut down at least 1/4" from the end of the threads. Slip a thin 6" scale into the slotted part of the adapter then clamp the nut into a vice.
* File a flat on the tip of the adapter - just file off the threads. Rotate the adapter shaft 180 degrees and file a flat on the other side.
* Carefully remove the nut, it may resist a little the first time when it gets to the filed-of threads, you might want to go back & forth a few times until it turns smoothly.
* with the flats on opposite sides of the adapter shaft it's a cinch to hold the shaft with a adjustable wrench or even a set of pliers while tightening the nut.
This method PREVENTS the adapter shaft from sliding on the motor shaft or the prop from sliding on the washer. The only thing you have to watch for is to NOT overtighten!
This is great. I cut a slot in the front for a screwdriver but I found that keeping the collett where I wanted it while pushing on the screwdriver didn't work. it still slipped. Now if you can just come up with a way to guarantee that a DuBro spinner's screws will align every time when you are done you will have solved the reason I have so many colletts in my scrap drawer.
Ken
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They have prop adapters with a set screw.
I wouldn't recommend one but they do sell them.
CB
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Now if you can just come up with a way to guarantee that a DuBro spinner's screws will align every time when you are done you will have solved the reason I have so many colletts in my scrap drawer.
Ken
Hi Ken
I feel your pain! What's cool about this method is that because it eliminates the slippage so you have a much better chance of aligning the backplate.
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Hi Ken
I feel your pain! What's cool about this method is that because it eliminates the slippage so you have a much better chance of aligning the backplate.
Amen to that!
Ken
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I used Dennis's method for awhile. It worked OK until I broke off the flat part from the aluminum shaft. Here's what I do now: Reply # 8: https://stunthanger.com/smf/open-forum/spinner-45680/msg475189/#msg475189
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I now glue a 1/64 ply disc to the back face of the prop hub. Makes the prop turn true, and eliminates the problem being discussed here.
Thanks Matt for that tip!
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Hi Howard
Read your note, & checked your link on your gadget for aligning the spinner backplate - the next sound you heard was my face palm. Great suggestion to use injured spinners. I have, in a pinch, used some of the starter-scratched spinners on my electrics. When the IC guys ask about the marks I calmly explain that sometimes outrunners are hard to cold start...
The flats & wrench on the adapter is the only way I have been able to address those times when the adapter is slipping on the motor shaft. I am careful about over tightening so as not to damage the aluminum threads. Have not (yet) twisted one off but that is also something to watch out for.
Hi Paul
So, a ply disc is enough to prevent the metal to metal or metal to composite prop slippage? NEVER heard of this one before ---- will try.
In them olden days I used to pin the spinner backplate to the thrust washer for similar reasons. You know those Max 35S' were torky little brats..!
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I now glue a 1/64 ply disc to the back face of the prop hub. Makes the prop turn true, and eliminates the problem being discussed here.
Thanks Matt for that tip!
This falls i the "Doo" category. Like Dennis I ran OS35s's and hated that "pop" as the prop came lose. Usually on an official. On my last ship before my trip into the wideness I put a fiber washer between the prop washer and the spinner back plate to compensate for my inabiitiy to measure when I glued on the nose ring. That one never slipped. Humm....
Thanks Paul/Matt - Ken