Gonzo,
        You can loose the Maple mounts.These motors are not trying to tear themselves(and the airplane)apart when they are running unlike the IC's try to do.Make sure to use the carbon veil between the sides/doublers.I make my mounting plates out of 1/4" aircraft grade ply.Might be overkill but I aint lost a motor yet!!You will have to go into the top block some and it may get thin.Then I cover the whole front of the fuse from mid wing forward with a layer of 3/4 oz. glass cloth and that gives the extra little strength without a ton of extra weight.Hope this Helps.
                                                                                Jeff

Thanks for the reply guys.  No maple motor mounts, check! 

Dennis, I'm a retread with no electric experience.  I did check the setup page, and basically ripped of Warren Leadbetter's setup.  Lots of usefull info on gear, but not much on installation.   I was thinking of a rear mount installation.  Would front be better?  Speaking of which.  the motors shaft is sticking out almost an inch on the back.  Do people cut this off when not using that type of installation? 

I'm sure I'll have plenty of questions the farther I sink into this project.

TA,

Gonzo

Thanks for the reply guys.   Speaking of which, the motor's shaft is sticking out almost an inch on the back.  Do people cut this off when not using that type of installation?   Gonzo

Gonzo, Welcome to clean, quiet, efficient, predictable and cost competitive electric flight!!!

Regarding the extended shaft, I personally cut them off but I know others just make a "relief" hole and space to let the shaft remain. One problem with cutting them off is that you risk getting bits of shaft cuttings attracted to the magnets inside the motor. One approach is to remove the shaft or at least the shell with the magnets before cutting the shaft. Since I am lazy and since removing the shaft or disassembling the motor is not always easy, I pierce a piece of heavy duty aluminum foil with the shaft and slide it all the way over the shaft until it is against the rear of the motor. I also wrap the entire motor in aluminum foil to seal out any metal particles that might fly about when cutting the shaft. Then I use my Dremel tool with a cutoff disk to cut off the shaft. I then vacuum the foil bundled motor to catch any stray particles. I have had no problems with the lazy approach but I am sure that disassembly of the motor and removing the shaft before cutting is probably the preferred method. Keep in mind that some motors have a "press fitted" shaft and removing the shaft may NOT be a good idea it that case. I do not remember if Turnigy motors are "press fit" or if they use set screws to hold the shaft to the front of the "can". There are some good YouTube tutorials on replacing bearings in outrunner motors that will guide you if you decide to disassemble your motor.   Here is one:

Keep us posted as to your progress with this project.

Gonzo,

I guess I should clarify regarding the prop. It is repitched to 6.4 at station 10 on a Prather pitch gauge. Functionally, I think it is really about a 6 pitch. I have some APC 11/8ep props, but I want to repitch them a bit lower before flying them and just haven't gotten around to it. Many of the fellows on the forum shorten 12/6ep apc props to 11"  for use on 40 size planes. I haven't tried that either.

I am going to try to attach pictures of my setup showing battery placement and access and the motor compartment. The battery is accessed through a hatch in the side of the fuse. The hatch is held on by a tab at the front and a magnet (from the brush head of a Sonicare tooth brush) at the rear. The esc and timer are in a compartment below the battery. The esc is mounted so the heat sink is just a bit proud of the fuselage bottom (almost flush). You can see the cooling holes into the esc compartment and the battery cage. The exit air for the batter is through the fuse to the open cockpit. (I like open cockpits...put them on most of my planes.) Everything runs cool on this plane (no more than 20 degrees above ambient temperature). You can also see the landing gear mount. The original has the gear recessed into the fuselage bottom. Mine sits flush with the top.

Hope you find this helpful.

Bob

Gonzo,

I use a Hubin 2 timer, which has a board mounted microswitch. If you look at the picture of the bottom of the plane, you can see something black sticking out near the front of the esc/timer compartment. That is a "pushrod" used to actuate the switch to start the timer. The holes allow access to the pots for adjusting the rpm and flight time.

Bob

Hi-I'm about to start on my Vector 40 and really thinking of going electric and I'm glad I found this thread!
-Scott Bauman AMA 697183
www.irks.org