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Author Topic: First time for me...  (Read 2716 times)

Online Ty Marcucci

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First time for me...
« on: October 14, 2020, 03:55:32 PM »
 I am doing  for the first time primer and paint from Rustoleum. 
« Last Edit: January 09, 2021, 11:17:07 AM by Ty Marcucci »
Ty Marcucci

Online Dennis Toth

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Re: First time for me...
« Reply #1 on: October 15, 2020, 06:14:05 AM »
Ty,
Watch the weight on the Rustoleum, they nozzle the use has a high flow rate and can cause puddles which fizz up and are a pain to sand. Keep the can at least  a foot off the surface when spraying and don't get it to thick on each coat. I call Rustoleum and that's their recommendation. Watch the recoat time or it fuzzes up. Also watch the humidity it will cause it to not dry.

Rustoleum is an acrylic enamel, Krylon is an acrylic lacquer and a bit lighter. My personal choice is still regular dope applied with the Preval spray system ($5 Home Depot). You could use the Preval with any paint. Thing I like since I am in FL and the humidity is not always cooperative, you can add retarder. For me one new power pack does a whole ship.

Good luck, let us know how it goes along the way.

Best,    DennisT 
« Last Edit: July 27, 2023, 09:25:49 AM by Dennis Toth »

Online Ken Culbertson

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Re: First time for me...
« Reply #2 on: October 16, 2020, 02:57:22 PM »
Ty,
Watch the weight on the Rustoleum, the nozzle the use has a high flow rate and can cause puddles which fizz up and are a pain to sand.
Best,    DennisT
Amen - Do not under any circumstances put on a heavy coat.  Several thin coats with some quick touch up if it was too thin will make you and your wallet real happy.  Ship in my Avitar is 100% Rustoleum.  This may be just me but I also only use their satin.  Goes on easier, shows blemishes better and looks the same after the clear coat.

Side benefit - both red and white cover uneven backgrounds.  You don't need a base coat.  Primer but no base coat unless you are doing reverse masking.

Ken
AMA 15382
If it is not broke you are not trying hard enough.
USAF 1968-1974 TAC

Online Dennis Toth

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Re: First time for me...
« Reply #3 on: April 19, 2021, 10:58:17 AM »
Ty,
What was the major problem? Did you do a top coat of clear?

Best,    DennisT

Offline john e. holliday

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Re: First time for me...
« Reply #4 on: April 19, 2021, 01:05:08 PM »
Ty, like any thing we do, it takes practice and patience to use rattle can paints.  As stated keep back at least a foot from the surface and don't go slow as you move across the area being painted. H^^
John E. "DOC" Holliday
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Shawnee, KANSAS  66203
AMA 23530  Have fun as I have and I am still breaking a record.

Offline ericrule

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Re: First time for me...
« Reply #5 on: April 19, 2021, 04:12:14 PM »
Hey Ty; Sorry you had a bad experience on your "first time".

One trick I learned using Rustoleum (or any other rattle can paint) was to heat the can in hot water prior to spraying. The hot water thins out the mixture and that combined with holding the can at least 12" from the surface solves most of the problems. Another trick is to do a number of "dust" coats rather than try to get it all in one or two coats. That way you can limit the amount of paint the hits the surface. No build up so no runs.

Online Ken Culbertson

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Re: First time for me...
« Reply #6 on: April 19, 2021, 04:24:37 PM »
Another trick is to do a number of "dust" coats rather than try to get it all in one or two coats.
That is my way of doing it.  I do two coats of base color, usually white and one of color.  Each coat consists of two or three passes in the same "coat".  Normally two passes does it. If you must do multiple coats do them about 20 min apart.  If you can't do that then wait two days.

If it is any conciliation, I totally hosed the first one I tried too.  I put it on too thick and the plane's nose looked like a mud flat the day after a rain.  Don't knock water base colors, anything that is water proof when it is dry will work on electric.

Ken
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If it is not broke you are not trying hard enough.
USAF 1968-1974 TAC

Offline ericrule

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Re: First time for me...
« Reply #7 on: April 20, 2021, 12:14:34 PM »
I think "vintage" refers to the seller.  LL~ LL~ LL~

It's kind of like SAM the society of Antique Modelers which refers to the "Antique" members.

Offline Mike Alimov

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Re: First time for me...
« Reply #8 on: April 20, 2021, 02:05:06 PM »
This thread really should be under Paint and Finishing, but anyhow...

I don't want those who are considering using Rustoleum to be turned off after reading this thread.  Rustoleum is a quality product that is effective, very affordable, and easy to use (yes, easy to use!) after some quick practice.
The key to using Rustoleum is... reading and following instructions on the pain can.  Rustoleum is an enamel, not lacquer, and that's where those who are used to dope run into trouble, because dope habits do not apply here.

- Surface prep is very important.  Rustoleum, like Monokote, does not help hide surface defects, it highlights them.  Wood grain needs to be sealed, sanded, primer applied and sanded to 600-800 grit.
-  There are different Rustoleum primers.  Regular Primer is the best; I would not recommend Sealing Primer or Professional Primer from the Rustoleum line. 
- Spraying over Monokote does not require primer, just scuffing with some Scotchbrite.
- Thoroughly wipe down all surfaces after sanding.  Shake the paint can for 5 min. Warm up the paint can in hot water for 10 min, then shake again for 5 min.  Back into warm water for 2-3 min to let the air bubbles from shaking dissipate.
- Spray is controlled two ways: distance between nozzle and surface, and speed of movement.  Holding nozzle at 12" and moving fast produces dry/mist coat; holding at 8-10" and moving slower produces richer coat.  If you've applied so much that drips have developed, you have sprayed too close or too slow.  Buy a can of any color and practice on a test surface prior to final application, they are only $6-7 each!
- Start by spraying a mist coat.  This will not provide full color coverage, but it's OK.  Set a timer for 15-20 minutes.
- When the timer goes off, go back and apply a richer coat.  You will see that in this one coat, you get full color coverage, and the paint flows out to a perfect gloss.   Make sure the part is protected from dust, bugs, etc., and walk away until the next day.  In 12-24 hours, you can handle the part, depending on ambient temperature.  Taping and color trim can be done in 48+ hours.

What NOT to do:
- Do not use dope, or other similar products, under Rustoleum.  They keep outgassing for months, and the thinners are not compatible with Rustoleum.  Use Rustoleum Primer and Rustoleum Gloss Enamel only.
- Do not wet sand Rustoleum, unless it's been curing for a year or so. (or something like that.  The deep layers take forever to dry).  This is not the kind of paint system like dope, where you build up thickness with a million thin layers, which can be sanded and sprayed pretty much any time.  This is a one-and-done application.
- If re-coat is desired, do so within 20-30 minutes of the initial coat, or after 48 hours.  Anything in between is guaranteed to crinkle/craze the previous layers.
- If done right, clear coat is not required.  In fact, I've tried Rustoleum Gloss Clear, and was not happy with this product.  I have not tried urethane clear, but again in my opinion it is not required if color was applied correctly and allowed to flow out to gloss.

The resulting surface may not be quite like a hand-rubbed dope or buffed out automotive clear, but probably good enough for 16-17-18 points at the NATS, and this with only $15 invested in paint products and a complete finish that can be done in 2-3 days!

Online Dennis Toth

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Re: First time for me...
« Reply #9 on: April 21, 2021, 06:39:51 AM »
Mike,
How would you say the Rustoleum enamel compares to Krylon acrylic lacquer? Seems the Krylon, although still heavier than dope, is lighter than Rustoleum and more compatible with dope undercoats.  Krylon also dries faster, should work great for electric's, needs top coat of auto clear death paint to be fuel proof.

Best,   DennisT

Offline Mike Alimov

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Re: First time for me...
« Reply #10 on: April 21, 2021, 08:24:44 AM »
Mike,
How would you say the Rustoleum enamel compares to Krylon acrylic lacquer? Seems the Krylon, although still heavier than dope, is lighter than Rustoleum and more compatible with dope undercoats.  Krylon also dries faster, should work great for electric's, needs top coat of auto clear death paint to be fuel proof.

Best,   DennisT

I have tried Krylon once on a test surface, and was not happy with a number of things: actual color vs. advertised (Neon Green turned out to look like wilted lettuce), goes down with lots of air bubbles and does not flow out to glossy, takes forever to dry, etc etc.  Returned the can and never looked back.  I'm sure you can find experts out there that have found a way to make Krylon work and look good, but I'm not one of them.

Offline Steve Berry

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Re: First time for me...
« Reply #11 on: April 21, 2021, 04:58:32 PM »
I'm sure you can find experts out there that have found a way to make Krylon work and look good, but I'm not one of them.

Cue Avrojet in 3...2...1...


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