This thread really should be under Paint and Finishing, but anyhow...
I don't want those who are considering using Rustoleum to be turned off after reading this thread. Rustoleum is a quality product that is effective, very affordable, and easy to use (yes, easy to use!) after some quick practice.
The key to using Rustoleum is... reading and following instructions on the pain can. Rustoleum is an enamel, not lacquer, and that's where those who are used to dope run into trouble, because dope habits do not apply here.
- Surface prep is very important. Rustoleum, like Monokote, does not help hide surface defects, it highlights them. Wood grain needs to be sealed, sanded, primer applied and sanded to 600-800 grit.
- There are different Rustoleum primers. Regular Primer is the best; I would not recommend Sealing Primer or Professional Primer from the Rustoleum line.
- Spraying over Monokote does not require primer, just scuffing with some Scotchbrite.
- Thoroughly wipe down all surfaces after sanding. Shake the paint can for 5 min. Warm up the paint can in hot water for 10 min, then shake again for 5 min. Back into warm water for 2-3 min to let the air bubbles from shaking dissipate.
- Spray is controlled two ways: distance between nozzle and surface, and speed of movement. Holding nozzle at 12" and moving fast produces dry/mist coat; holding at 8-10" and moving slower produces richer coat. If you've applied so much that drips have developed, you have sprayed too close or too slow. Buy a can of any color and practice on a test surface prior to final application, they are only $6-7 each!
- Start by spraying a mist coat. This will not provide full color coverage, but it's OK. Set a timer for 15-20 minutes.
- When the timer goes off, go back and apply a richer coat. You will see that in this one coat, you get full color coverage, and the paint flows out to a perfect gloss. Make sure the part is protected from dust, bugs, etc., and walk away until the next day. In 12-24 hours, you can handle the part, depending on ambient temperature. Taping and color trim can be done in 48+ hours.
What NOT to do:
- Do not use dope, or other similar products, under Rustoleum. They keep outgassing for months, and the thinners are not compatible with Rustoleum. Use Rustoleum Primer and Rustoleum Gloss Enamel only.
- Do not wet sand Rustoleum, unless it's been curing for a year or so. (or something like that. The deep layers take forever to dry). This is not the kind of paint system like dope, where you build up thickness with a million thin layers, which can be sanded and sprayed pretty much any time. This is a one-and-done application.
- If re-coat is desired, do so within 20-30 minutes of the initial coat, or after 48 hours. Anything in between is guaranteed to crinkle/craze the previous layers.
- If done right, clear coat is not required. In fact, I've tried Rustoleum Gloss Clear, and was not happy with this product. I have not tried urethane clear, but again in my opinion it is not required if color was applied correctly and allowed to flow out to gloss.
The resulting surface may not be quite like a hand-rubbed dope or buffed out automotive clear, but probably good enough for 16-17-18 points at the NATS, and this with only $15 invested in paint products and a complete finish that can be done in 2-3 days!