Larry,
How about a few more details---(sorry if I missed if you posted the details somewhere else). For example, what plane, and are you running governor mode?

Also what type battery are you using? From your previous post, I think  you are running a Lipo. Where do you get the 14.8V level from? Is it the actual voltage measured before flying? I ask this because a freshly charged lipo should be reading somewhere in the 16.6+V range under no load. With load the voltage at the ESC will drop to values like 14.8V If it was really reading 14.8V before running, then it wasn't fully charged, and this might explain why you noticed a say (although I am surprised you didn't get some blips from the LVC of the ESC.

I note that your battery is roughly twice the capacity of what I am using with a Nobler, and I have no problem with sagging in the flight.

Are you running governor mode on the ESC? If not you might just be seeing the initial fast drop-off of voltage.

Larry,
If you have to ask, you aren't!
Ok that is the problem. Let me show you what one of my flights looks like. You are looking at Watts (orange) and Pack Volts (grey). The rpm is set to run at a fixed 8100 rpm. You can see that the volts drop through the flight. If you aren't in governor mode, as the volts drop, so does your throttle, and airpeed. Some Timers can compensate by raising the throttle setting during the flight (usually linearly), but I don't think yours can.

Governor mode is much better anyway. When setup this way, the ESC interprets the timer throttle setting as an rpm. There is a little trial and error to get the flight speed you want, but once you have it, it is pretty solid. The rpm will be less than max power, so that when the load goes up in a climb, the ESC can goose the throttle to keep the rpm from dropping. Also when the plane is coming on the downward slope, the throttle is dropped, also keeping the rpm constant.

To set governor mode, you need to program your ESC. I think you can do it with either a RC setup, or with the CC "Castle Link" cable/board and software. It runs only on a PC (unfortunately for me since my machine is a Mac, but I do have access to a PC.) I am guessing that you will need to buy the Castle Link (it comes with everything you need).

Larry,
You can program the ESC without being hooked up to the motor. First you need to install the software from CC onto the PC. That goes reasonably easily. Then launch the application, plug the USB part of the cable into the PC, the other end onto the little card, then the ESC throttle cable is plugged into the connector coming from the little card. The application will note that it has connected to the ESC---also probably will say new software exists and do you want to download. For now you can probably skip that. Anyway there are two tabbed windows, the first lets you set some of the features. About all you want to do is to make sure that the Low Voltage Shutoff (LVC) is "soft", and then under throttle type, chose governor mode "high". Governor mode "Gain" somewhere around 70+ (custom), and Spool Up Custom "9". The latter sets how fast the motor will spin up,---even "9" which is suppose to be "fast" is still pretty slow, and will take ~5 s or so to get to max rpm.

Once you finish, upload the parameters, and remove the ESC. After putting back into the plane and hooking up to the Timer, you will need to set an appropriate rpm. I fly at 8100rpm with the APC 12-6 prop. I am guessing you will need a higher rpm than I do since your plane is bigger and heavier. As a wild guess, something like 8500-8600 on the 12-6 prop is maybe reasonable. With the 12-8, a lower rpm is called for. It is your choice. Anyway you are talking throttle settings in the 30% or lower of full scale on your timer. I suggest putting a small prop (10 or 11") on your plane, set the throttle to ~28% and measure the rpm. Set it where you want to try using the small prop--it is less stress on your battery and motor. Then put the normal prop back on and try a flight. Then it will be back and forth to get it where you want it.

Good luck!

Mike I DL the link twice and repair mode, but the program can't see the CC45 linkto USB, when I plug it in the USB port it rings like it is connected, the light on the link has green/red glowing the phoenix 45 lights up red, but the link window shows no controller?

If the link is ok, it will be green. As I recall, there are two software light's on the CC Link window, one is for the USB board, the other is for the ESC (I am trying to remember this as it isn't in front of me right now). Which one is showing red?

If you have the programming board, maybe the Jeti Spin is easier to set up at this point. I have no experience with it, but I think Mike and others use them and can help.

Well Guys thanks for ALL your help, I findly got the link to work, and got it program to governor mode, will try it.  If I use the Jeti Advance 40. I have program card for it, does Jeti have a governor mode also? I also have a Z Tron timer. I think I have more parts and Don't know what to do with it.  I have a lot to learn for a old dog.

Well Guys thanks for ALL your help, I findly got the link to work, and got it program to governor mode, will try it.  If I use the Jeti Advance 40. I have program card for it, does Jeti have a governor mode also? I also have a Z Tron timer. I think I have more parts and Don't know what to do with it.  I have a lot to learn for a old dog.

Rudy tells me he runs about 9100 rpm on his Brodak P40 electric setup (also APC E 12-6 prop). So for starters I would try that rpm. I don't know how to set the throttle on your timer, but on the Ztron, setting the throttle dip switch for "16" should give you just about 9100 rpm on your CC45. I would start there and adjust as needed for comfortable flying.

Thierry,
   What issues are you having with the Schulze/JMP combo? Send Kim Doherty an e-mail or PM, I am sure he would be glad to help if he can. I am using the V.4 Z-Tron with the Schulze 18.46K with no issues.

Mike