Is there anyway to get one repaired?. I must have connected something backward when I first got it. Twin motor function doesn't work and you can't program it. About 10-20 flights before I had to replace it.

You might look at this thread, but it sounds like you actually burned/destroyed the chip, or connection to it.  You would likely have to send it to Rogerio, but shipping both ways, the chip and programming doesn't sound economically feasable.  If one could obtain and replace the chip here, then you still need a propritary program.

https://stunthanger.com/smf/gettin-all-amp'ed-up!/fiorotti-help/msg652955/#msg652955

Just my thoughts, sorry if it isn't helpful.
Fred

Does anyone know what the +- setting for ESC #2 mean in terms of RPM's.  With the +- setting at .0000 my inboard (ESC 1) is turning at 9300 RPM and the Outboard (ESC 2) is at 9100.  This is causing yaw in the areas of the pattern where G-Force is quite active.  The yaw in the up leg of the hourglass makes for a sloppy 2nd corner and appears to be causing a short loosening of line tension just following the corner.  It makes getting the plane on the wingover path at the top really difficult.  I think I want to have the motors running the same RPM.

Ken                                                                                                                 
                                                                                                                           
                                                                                                                           
                                                                                                                           
                                                                                                                         
                                                                                                                         
                                                   .

I will give this a try based on my experience with single motor.

If you have set the ESC Max and Min at about 4000 difference, say a low of 7000 rpm and Max at 11000 rpm then 1 click of the timer is about 10rpm and 0.002ms.  The Firortti has 400 clicks of adjustment, so 10 rpm/click if the 4000 difference in the ESC.  I use this to approximate RPM change to adjust lap time and it works as a good approximation. 

For Nose up and for ESC 2, a click is 0.001 ms, so only about 5 rpm.  You have 100 clicks up and 100 clicks down on ESC 2 as I recall, so you can move the RPM of motor 2 up or down by up to 500  rpm.

I think that small variations in electronics and motors account for the difference in base rpm ot the 2 setups.  I claim no expertise in making that statement, just my guess.  The difference does exist, so now the ESC 2 settings allow for correction or your choice of compensation.

After guessing or estimating the number of clicks, then you can (maybe should) measure actual rpm of each motor.

If you are concerned about the base rpm differences, try swapping motor positions, or ESCs to see if there is a difference, but maybe more effort than the curiosity deserves.

Fred

Based on what you posted I need -.0020 not -.0002 to reduce @2 to 9100 from 9300.  I suspect the difference is in the motors.  9100 seems a bit slow for what everybody else posts but I am using a 6 pitch set of props so maybe not.

Ken

For those running the new timer, what settings do you have the G-Force set at, say I wanted to dial in some more line tension in the outside loop of the overhead 8, is there as way to do that?

Quote from: Dwayne Donnelly on May 26, 2025, 10:37:24 AM
For those running the new timer, what settings do you have the G-Force set at, say I wanted to dial in some more line tension in the outside loop of the overhead 8, is there as way to do that?

I think starting with 6.5 G-Force is set by the timer.  It recalibrates based on lap time (base RPM).  I set mine at 3.0. per the instructions and left it there.  I was disappointed in the difference in 6.4 and 6.5 for the same reason you are but one wiser than me coached me to leave it alone and after getting my lap time right it was right as well.  I have a 6.6 which allegedly only differs by the addition a different signal for the LED. Three settings.  1.The old way. 2. only on at start, calibrate and 10 seconds before cutoff and 3. Different blinking patterns for boost and break. Kinda cool.  The LED also seems brighter.

Ken

How not to use it :)
G-Force is measured by the timer, even if you aren't using the function.  Example, it can be used to help lower gear if using retracts even if you are not using the function of g-force.  You can also set the g-force by putting in a number.  If your g-force is not the actual measured g-force, then the timer will try to reach your desired or set g-force by adjusting rpm and speed to obtain that number.  That can be a problem and slow the plane to decrease the force to your setting or speed up and use up your battery to reach a higher g-force than it would have by your other settings.  It can be useful if you figure out how to use that but mostly may get you in trouble.  Easy solution is to leave g-force to the timer and don't change it from timer calibrated.  Also, if you do set it, it will still recalibrate every time you change set rpm.

How to use it.
Leave the number along and scroll past to I and D.  That is increase and decrease rpm.  The settings are in percent.  Try 5 - 10% in either or each and you will likely notice a significant difference overhead and perhaps at up wind with the plane blowing in and downwind with the plane blowing out.  When the plane is directly overhead you are loosing 1 g of force and similar with the plane being pushed in or blown out.  Depending on you numbers for I and D, you will hear and feel rpm and pull in appropriate positions.

It will change rpm and resultant line tension overhead, not necessarily different for insides and outsides.  If tension is different on outsides and insides, consider trim changes.  That said, a bit more rpm, may be helpful for tension even if you get a bit more tension inside than outside.

Quote from: Fred Underwood on May 26, 2025, 03:39:04 PM
How not to use it
G-Force is measured by the timer, even if you aren't using the function.  Example, it can be used to help lower gear if using retracts even if you are not using the function of g-force.  You can also set the g-force by putting in a number.  If your g-force is not the actual measured g-force, then the timer will try to reach your desired or set g-force by adjusting rpm and speed to obtain that number.  That can be a problem and slow the plane to decrease the force to your setting or speed up and use up your battery to reach a higher g-force than it would have by your other settings.  It can be useful if you figure out how to use that but mostly may get you in trouble.  Easy solution is to leave g-force to the timer and don't change it from timer calibrated.  Also, if you do set it, it will still recalibrate every time you change set rpm.

How to use it.
Leave the number along and scroll past to I and D.  That is increase and decrease rpm.  The settings are in percent.  Try 5 - 10% in either or each and you will likely notice a significant difference overhead and perhaps at up wind with the plane blowing in and downwind with the plane blowing out.  When the plane is directly overhead you are loosing 1 g of force and similar with the plane being pushed in or blown out.  Depending on you numbers for I and D, you will hear and feel rpm and pull in appropriate positions.

It will change rpm and resultant line tension overhead, not necessarily different for insides and outsides.  If tension is different on outsides and insides, consider trim changes.  That said, a bit more rpm, may be helpful for tension even if you get a bit more tension inside than outside.

Thanks Fred, so if I understand the G-Force came set at 2.98, leave that alone and set the others to  D005% and  I005% as a start and go from there?
thanks

Dwane - I have my G-Force set at D=25 I=40.  It appears to be working.  Fred should be writing the manuals.  I still haven't figured out if + on ESC 2 differential means slower or faster.  Such is life.

Ken

Since you are saying that it was set at 2.98 (any number) suggests that you have not used it yet and it has not actually calibrated in a flight.  That would be the case if you have not yet tried I and or D.  I think that a reading of around 3.1 - 3.2 is common with flying, for reference, but not a number to worry about unless it is way off from that.

5% of either or each is a reasonable place to begin and if you don't notice it, go to 10% and then once you know that it is acting, adjust to taste.

When it is calibrating, you will get fairly rapid blinking for about 3.5 - 4 laps where you should be flying level.

Please post after trying it to let us know how youi like it.

Quote from: Fred Underwood on May 27, 2025, 05:51:05 PM



Please post after trying it to let us know how youi like it.

Well not good and I have no idea why. First thing is it was a breezy day today with gusts around 25Kph,  I played with the D and I settings and all I could get it to do was speed up in insides and slow down in outsides, I ended up with the D and I  set at 40% and the plane whipped up so fast in the inside loops I might as well be flying glow.  The esc is Jeti 44 pro programmed they way Rogario suggests, the sensor is leveled I checked it 3 times and in the correct orientation , I have no idea what I'm doing wrong, oh and one other thing, the RPM PWM on my old V6.4 version was set at only 114 to get the desired flight speed, on my new 6.5V I had to set at 255 to get the same lap times on the same plane. 

Quote from: Dwayne Donnelly on May 30, 2025, 11:09:16 AM
Well not good and I have no idea why. First thing is it was a breezy day today with gusts around 25Kph,  I played with the D and I settings and all I could get it to do was speed up in insides and slow down in outsides

I had to start over with G-Force on 6.5.  I set both D and I to zero and got my lap times right.  6.5 needs those calibration laps to set the G-Force base.  I would not do that in wind.  When you have completed the calibration laps at the lap time you want, G-Force should act just like it used to except it will automatically set to maintain tension.  Now you can tweak D & I.

Ken

G-force will use I and D to add rpm and decrease rpm.  It is not a fix for differential rpm outside and inside.  Is the timer level both with the wing trailing edge and with the fuse thrust line or center line.  Off level with wing trailing edge will give outside and inside differences.  Set the plane level and look at the x and y values, then flip the plane and look at the values when inverted.  They should be very close to identical.

If the timer is leveled in both directions, look at what affects trim.  Are the wings up or down, different from inside to outside.  Again, it will run the timer differently.

When you mentioned the timer settings being different, was the ESC changed at all.  I see different timer settings if the Max and Min rpm limits in the ESC change.

I use between 5 and 10 on I and D.  I don't like high values and abrupt rpm and torque changes.  But if you balance lap time plus nose up plus Sens then you need little boost up top.  If you try to fly slow laps, then when you need power to maneuver, you add more, so larger values.  What is your plane size and weight, line length, lap time for values to start looking at.  When you said same plane, did that include same prop and motor and kv?

Fred

Went out yesterday still couldn't get it to work so today I put the old V6.4 timer back on, and guess what? It didn't work either so it has to be the Jeti spin pro 44, I programmed it per instructions on Rogerio's web page, checked and double checked, so I'm stumped, I can still fly with G-Force off and it still has boost but would nice to get the g-force working.

PM sent.  What is working on 6.4 and what is not? Are you saying that G-force does nothing, or doesn't correct inside vs outside?

Dwane:

If I understand this correctly, and that is always in doubt , G-Force is only going to become active if the plane loses tension (g's) regardless of the elevation.  This is just "pie in the sky" free thinking but I have been there many times with this timer.  Is it possible that Nose Up is giving it everything it thinks it needs?  Try turning Nose Up off and see if you get a boost.  It will be delayed but there.  Second, and I know nothing of the why of this, but the sensor pad orientation could be wrong.  I have found that making it square to the flight path works better than square to the fuselage.  Usually about 1-2 degrees.  I have also made sure that it calibrates, even if I force it. 

Ken

Thanks guys, crazy windy up here and going away for a bit, hopefully will get back out next week.

Sorry to rehash an old topic as I'm now using the climb and dive timer, but just wanted to clarify what I was talking about, this is the video of the 9 year old, listen to the motor as it surges and slows down through the pattern, that is how my old timer worked and what I couldn't get the new one to do. Thanks again for all the input. 

If you're talking about the C&D timer I don't think it comes on hard. I have not tried the max settings but I do sit around 8ish on some settings.

Quote from: Paul Taylor on May 27, 2026, 04:36:26 PMIf you're talking about the C&D timer I don't think it comes on hard. I have not tried the max settings but I do sit around 8ish on some settings.

No it was my second Fiorotti G-force timer, my first one behaved like the one in the video and it was fun playing with it and seeing what it would do, I couldn't get my second Fiorotti timer to work like this and didn't know if it was me or not, I'm using the C&D timer now and maybe someday I'll try the Fiorotti again.