Author Topic: Fiorotti Timer (Read 73961 times)

Larry Wong · « **on:** October 15, 2021, 02:10:40 PM »

has anyone have idea on how to extend the start button on a full fuselage ?

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #1 on:** October 15, 2021, 02:38:10 PM »

Quote from: Larry Wong on October 15, 2021, 02:10:40 PM

has anyone have idea on how to extend the start button on a full fuselage ?

There seem to be no really great options. You can glue a dowel extension of the same diameter or do what I am doing and mount it to the back of a removable hatch. One thing I really liked about the Huben was the optional start button.

Ken

Rogerio Fiorotti · « **Reply #2 on:** October 15, 2021, 03:00:58 PM »

Solutions for profiles.

Rogerio Fiorotti · « **Reply #3 on:** October 15, 2021, 03:07:02 PM »

Full fuselage solutions

Fred Underwood · « **Reply #4 on:** October 15, 2021, 09:22:45 PM »

It has been reported that CA and/or kicker can ruin the switch, so be careful if gluing an extension. From what i can tell, the switch is a 2 pin momentary micro button switch. On the older version, the button is about 6mm above the face of the switch. One of the switches below might work. I had an old non working timer and removed the switch without too much difficulty.

https://www.amazon.com/TWTADE-Momentary-ButtonTact-Assortment-QC-9V-2P/dp/B085SWHFMK/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=push+button+micro+switch+2+pin&qid=1634337907&sr=8-4

https://www.ebay.com/itm/292275046056?hash=item440cf346a8:g:GzAAAOSwKNJZzx5I

https://www.ebay.com/itm/293696573394?hash=item4461ae0fd2:g:T7kAAOSwGQJfPGB1
See sellers store for other length.

Update to this.
The button switch on V4 is 2 pin and fairly easily removed. I was going to change the V6 to a longer button switch, but the V6 has a 4 pin switch and a chip is on the other side of the board blocking easy access to the solder joints. I did not try to work on the V6.

Fred Underwood · « **Reply #5 on:** October 15, 2021, 09:25:28 PM »

deleted, duplicate

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #6 on:** November 17, 2021, 04:47:50 PM »

Quote from: Fred Underwood on October 15, 2021, 09:25:28 PM

Fred: If I go from an 11-6 three to an 11-6 two, how much should I be upping RPM PWM1? Right now it is at 215 which was where I flew it on the 3 blade. That gave me somewhere around 9,000. I am thinking maybe 230?. Should be about 9,700. That is what I ran my Cobra 3520 on using an 11-6 two blade APC or MAS. I am testing two new BA wood props.

Does changing RPM automatically adjust MAX/MIN?

Ken

Fred Underwood · « **Reply #7 on:** November 17, 2021, 05:27:11 PM »

The Max and Min rpm settings slide up and down with the base rpm to keep the deltas the same, I think in all of the V6 versions. For a one time check, when you change rpm, check after change to be sure that the Max/'Min changed.

There are 400 steps in RPM setting. My experience is that a step is about 8 - 12 rpm. On my 12 x 5 Igor 3 blade the rpm is about about 400 lower than with the 11 x 5 3 blade and that is about 35 steps (not actual PWM number, but timer steps) lower. That is in the 10.8k down to 10.4k rpm range. Interesting that my 235 number gives about 10.4 and 275 gives about 10.8k rpm. I think that you get some variation on the actual number based on other timer and ESC settings.

I used the Xoar wood 2 blades and they worked well and are light weight. Not very expensive, but can be hard to find.

I hope that helps.

Fly a minute or so and check your lap time or run the risk of killing a battery, or having a long slow flight :-)

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #8 on:** November 17, 2021, 06:47:09 PM »

Quote from: Fred Underwood on November 17, 2021, 05:27:11 PM

I used the Xoar wood 2 blades and they worked well and are light weight. Not very expensive, but can be hard to find.

I ran it up on the BadAss 11-6 and I think I am going to up the base to 250 for my first flight tests. The BA was very smooth and quiet. I have used the XOAR on smaller motors. Liked them. Ultimate goal is a good CF three blade. Thanks for the help.
Ken

Mark wood · « **Reply #9 on:** November 18, 2021, 08:49:59 AM »

Quote from: Larry Wong on October 15, 2021, 02:10:40 PM

has anyone have idea on how to extend the start button on a full fuselage ?

The start button is my singular not so happy place on this timer. Mine is simply installed the way Rogerio states in the installation instructions with a piece of command strip. Seems to work okay but needs to be squished back in sometimes. I gave up on making a fancy mount and went for two holes drilled in the side.

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #10 on:** November 18, 2021, 10:53:47 AM »

Quote from: Mark wood on November 18, 2021, 08:49:59 AM

The start button is my singular not so happy place on this timer. Mine is simply installed the way Rogerio states in the installation instructions with a piece of command strip. Seems to work okay but needs to be squished back in sometimes. I gave up on making a fancy mount and went for two holes drilled in the side.

I installed mine flush on the back of a 1/32" plywood hatch. I use a block on the inside to hold in place. No adhesive. Stays put and easy to remove. My only problem(s) with the timer so far are getting the ESC on the right pins in poor light (I keep putting it on the LG pins) and getting RPM set. I would prefer an actual RPM displayed on the Jetti instead of that "code". Other than that I love it.

Please forgive the rather sloppy finishing. This is a test bed for all kinds of ~~Crap~~ things brush painted over monokote at my office desk. Plane looks great from 10'

Ken

Mark wood · « **Reply #11 on:** November 18, 2021, 11:13:37 AM »

Quote from: Ken Culbertson on November 18, 2021, 10:53:47 AM

I installed mine flush on the back of a 1/32" plywood hatch. I use a block on the inside to hold in place. No adhesive. Stays put and easy to remove. My only problem(s) with the timer so far are getting the ESC on the right pins in poor light (I keep putting it on the LG pins) and getting RPM set. I would prefer an actual RPM displayed on the Jetti instead of that "code". Other than that I love it.

Please forgive the rather sloppy finishing. This is a test bed for all kinds of ~~Crap~~ things brush painted over monokote at my office desk. Plane looks great from 10'
Ken

If'n I find motivation, I'll probably make a 3D printed mounting device. That is likely to happen on the next build. The Fiorotti was installed in already completed airplanes and I'm generally lazy. I have many other projects in the fire.

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #12 on:** November 30, 2021, 04:37:21 PM »

Quote from: Fred Underwood on November 17, 2021, 05:27:11 PM

Fly a minute or so and check your lap time or run the risk of killing a battery, or having a long slow flight :-)

Update for you and Rogerio:
Finally able to put in a few more flights. Turned on Nose Up and G-Force. I have never experienced an hourglass before where the overhead turns were so easy. I actually have nearly the same tension directly overhead as I do down low. Some of that was the lines, I am trying the new .0145 three strand lines from Ukraine and they have substantially less drag so my leadouts are probably a tad further back than necessary. But, WOW that bump climbing and powering through the turns then backing off so that I could hold the down leg all the way --- priceless. First time in wind too. About 10-12 and there was practically no wind up. It also seems to be easier to hold shape in the rounds. The plane is still completely untrimmed. Only one thing is off - everything. I have wings level and that is about it.

Super happy with battery performance using the Jetti/Fiortti. TP 5s 2800 lands at 28% remaining using a 3 blade 11-6 MAS.

I must be doing something wrong with sequencing. Twice the motor has failed to start when everything appears normal. If you have started the timer then hit the off switch, is there a time you need to wait before starting again? Twice I have had to stop the startup sequence and restart. Battery connected, switch on, wait for prop to wiggle, hit timer start button wait for mini burst.. Twice I have not gotten the mini burst and the motor never started. Turning it off and waiting about 20 seconds and restarting worked.

So far I am giving the timer an "A". If it was easier to mount and had a remote start button like the Huben it would get an "A+"

Ken

Mark wood · « **Reply #13 on:** November 30, 2021, 04:54:13 PM »

Quote from: Ken Culbertson on November 30, 2021, 04:37:21 PM

Update for you and Rogerio:
Finally able to put in a few more flights. Turned on Nose Up and G-Force. I have never experienced an hourglass before where the overhead turns were so easy. I actually have nearly the same tension directly overhead as I do down low. Some of that was the lines, I am trying the new .0145 three strand lines from Ukraine and they have substantially less drag so my leadouts are probably a tad further back than necessary. But, WOW that bump climbing and powering through the turns then backing off so that I could hold the down leg all the way --- priceless. First time in wind too. About 10-12 and there was practically no wind up. It also seems to be easier to hold shape in the rounds. The plane is still completely untrimmed. Only one thing is off - everything. I have wings level and that is about it.

Super happy with battery performance using the Jetti/Fiortti. TP 5s 2800 lands at 28% remaining using a 3 blade 11-6 MAS.

I must be doing something wrong with sequencing. Twice the motor has failed to start when everything appears normal. If you have started the timer then hit the off switch, is there a time you need to wait before starting again? Twice I have had to stop the startup sequence and restart. Battery connected, switch on, wait for prop to wiggle, hit timer start button wait for mini burst.. Twice I have not gotten the mini burst and the motor never started. Turning it off and waiting about 20 seconds and restarting worked.

So far I am giving the timer an "A". If it was easier to mount and had a remote start button like the Huben it would get an "A+"

Ken

You have to hold the button down until the LED turns on. Are you doing that?

Fred Underwood · « **Reply #14 on:** November 30, 2021, 05:00:30 PM »

Quote from: Ken Culbertson on November 30, 2021, 04:37:21 PM

Update for you and Rogerio:
Finally able to put in a few more flights. Turned on Nose Up and G-Force. I have never experienced an hourglass before where the overhead turns were so easy. I actually have nearly the same tension directly overhead as I do down low. Some of that was the lines, I am trying the new .0145 three strand lines from Ukraine and they have substantially less drag so my leadouts are probably a tad further back than necessary. But, WOW that bump climbing and powering through the turns then backing off so that I could hold the down leg all the way --- priceless. First time in wind too. About 10-12 and there was practically no wind up. It also seems to be easier to hold shape in the rounds. The plane is still completely untrimmed. Only one thing is off - everything. I have wings level and that is about it.
Ken

Yep, that sounds about right :-) Careful, you are helping your competition.

The only reason I have encountered for not starting is pushing the start button too soon. If you push the button before both a beep and a flash, then no start. You can tell this because the timer light then does not start flashing. On a restart, unplug the battery and wait a couple seconds then go through the full sequence. I think the couple of seconds without power is for the ESC capacitors to power down/off.

Fred Underwood · « **Reply #15 on:** November 30, 2021, 05:14:40 PM »

Quote from: Ken Culbertson on November 30, 2021, 04:37:21 PM

Update for you and Rogerio:
If it was easier to mount and had a remote start button like the Huben it would get an "A+"
Ken

If you mean a button on wire leads, you could probably do that by removing the button from the board and soldering in a momentary switch on leads in its place.

Update on Dec 11
The 4 pin button switch is not easily removed. I had been looking at a V4 and that switch is 2 pin with easy access.

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #16 on:** November 30, 2021, 06:12:14 PM »

Quote from: Mark wood on November 30, 2021, 04:54:13 PM

You have to hold the button down until the LED turns on. Are you doing that?

Yes, Fred's post answered the question. I have been starting the timer too soon. With the Castle I was using, it would sing to you while doing it's thing so you were polite and waited till it finished.

Ken

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #17 on:** November 30, 2021, 06:16:57 PM »

Quote from: Fred Underwood on November 30, 2021, 05:00:30 PM

Yep, that sounds about right :-) Careful, you are helping your competition.

They are going to need it!

Ken

Mark wood · « **Reply #18 on:** November 30, 2021, 06:49:58 PM »

Quote from: Ken Culbertson on November 30, 2021, 06:12:14 PM

Yes, Fred's post answered the question. I have been starting the timer too soon. With the Castle I was using it sung to you while doing it's thing so you were polite and waited till it finished.

Ken

You're going to be spoiled. The Jeti Fiorotti is a great combo. I like that you can use the same interface. I like the Castles because they are what I have around from the RC days. But the Jeti is better. I've been through all of the Hubins too and the one of those I like the best is the FM0c, otherwise not so much.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #19 on:** December 01, 2021, 01:11:57 PM »

Quote from: Rogerio Fiorotti on October 15, 2021, 03:00:58 PM

Solutions for profiles.

Off topic, but -- that is a nice looking motor mount.

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #20 on:** December 09, 2021, 01:40:37 PM »

Let me pose another question here. I have trouble with disconnecting the esc to plug it into the Jetti box without having to pull the timer plug as well. I know that you need to do that, but my concern is that these are very fragile wires and connectors and I worry about breaking wires and loosening connectors not to mention the embarrassment and wasted time that comes after you put them back wrong and the ESC won't arm.

So, my question, is there a small switching plug that would allow you keep the timer plugs plugged in all the time?
I would really like to be able to plug in the Jetti to one port and get the timer and another port to get the ESC. They could be flush mounted in the fuselage or covered by a hatch.

Are there kits or electronic supplies that let you make custom connectors? That is a dumb question, of course there are but have any of you done something similar. Connectors are the #1 and probably also the #2 reason for in air failures and it is not like your motor sputters or goes rich first, it just silently stops.

Ken

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #21 on:** December 09, 2021, 01:49:30 PM »

Quote from: Ken Culbertson on December 09, 2021, 01:40:37 PM

Are there kits or electronic supplies that let you make custom connectors?

Yes, but you either by the $20 crimping tool at the hobby shop and it's never up to pro standards, or you buy the $200 pro crimping tool and then wonder why you spent all that money.

https://www.maxxprod.com/mpi/mpi-4.html has crimpers and connector kits. A SPDT slide switch would do the switch-over; yet one of those from a reputable place like DigiKey or Mouser, or roll the dice with surplus places like MPJA Electronics or All Electronics.

The $20 tool (OK, $17 and change from Maxx Products) will work, but you have to know the end goal and be willing to fiddle.

Mark wood · « **Reply #22 on:** December 09, 2021, 02:14:43 PM »

Quote from: Ken Culbertson on December 09, 2021, 01:40:37 PM

Let me pose another question here. I have trouble with disconnecting the esc to plug it into the Jetti box without having to pull the timer plug as well. I know that you need to do that, but my concern is that these are very fragile wires and connectors and I worry about breaking wires and loosening connectors not to mention the embarrassment and wasted time that comes after you put them back wrong and the ESC won't arm.

So, my question, is there a small switching plug that would allow you keep the timer plugs plugged in all the time?
I would really like to be able to plug in the Jetti to one port and get the timer and another port to get the ESC. They could be flush mounted in the fuselage or covered by a hatch.

Are there kits or electronic supplies that let you make custom connectors? That is a dumb question, of course there are but have any of you done something similar. Connectors are the #1 and probably also the #2 reason for in air failures and it is not like your motor sputters or goes rich first, it just silently stops.

Ken

Why wouldn't you just get a male to male connection and just stow it when you aren't using it? For $7 on Amazon you can get enough for 10 airplanes delivered to your door.

https://www.amazon.com/DIYmall-10PCS-Servo-Extension-Cable/dp/B016RJ8S42/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=RC+JR+male+to+male+cable&qid=1639084411&sr=8-8

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #23 on:** December 09, 2021, 02:31:03 PM »

Quote from: Mark wood on December 09, 2021, 02:14:43 PM

Why wouldn't you just get a male to male connection and just stow it when you aren't using it? For $7 on Amazon you can get enough for 10 airplanes delivered to your door.

https://www.amazon.com/DIYmall-10PCS-Servo-Extension-Cable/dp/B016RJ8S42/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=RC+JR+male+to+male+cable&qid=1639084411&sr=8-8

Thanks but I was trying to make this complicated. That will work. No, I need an extension cable not a male to male.

Ken

Mark wood · « **Reply #24 on:** December 09, 2021, 02:40:26 PM »

Quote from: Ken Culbertson on December 09, 2021, 02:31:03 PM

Thanks but I was trying to make this complicated. That will work. No, I need an extension cable not a male to male.

Ken

The timer side is pins and the Jeti side is pins. Both sides need a male connector I just leave the connector on my timer in the airplane and connect it directly to the Jeti box. I never disconnect my timer from the ESC. That would be way too difficult as the timer in mounted under the battery tray. There isn't any need to connect the other cable to the Jeti box as the power will come through the time connector.

You could get longer ones as well. Or connect an extension to a short jumper from the airplane. The one I have in my plane is about 6". Actually there are two, the other is for the ESC which is also tucked under the battery tray.

Fred Underwood · « **Reply #25 on:** December 09, 2021, 04:13:17 PM »

See the post 123 with picture on the Trifecta thread.

I use extensions and then the break point is up where you can see, and I don't unplug at the timer. I also use a 4 cell NiXX battery (not to exceed 5.5v) to run the Jeti box and timer/ESC. Using the timer or ESC is very easy and convenient, and I don't have to plug into a Lipo power pack. I use a set up like the picture to pre-program out of the airplane. You can set up the wiring to use male to male or male to female with proper lead end choices.

Mark wood · « **Reply #26 on:** December 09, 2021, 06:12:09 PM »

Quote from: Fred Underwood on December 09, 2021, 04:13:17 PM

See the post 123 with picture on the Trifecta thread.

I use extensions and then the break point is up where you can see, and I don't unplug at the timer. I also use a 4 cell NiXX battery (not to exceed 5.5v) to run the Jeti box and timer/ESC. Using the timer or ESC is very easy and convenient, and I don't have to plug into a Lipo power pack. I use a set up like the picture to pre-program out of the airplane. You can set up the wiring to use male to male or male to female with proper lead end choices.

That's a really good way to pre set your timer. I'm not that sophisticated. I just do it in the airplane. Since my timer and ESC reside under the tray and neither is easy to get to, I run a cable out from both. The Spin pro has two connections, one for the Jeti box. I simply plug in to what I need after arming. Usually I have the airplane tied down in the stooge or the prop removed in the shop.

Fred Underwood · « **Reply #27 on:** December 09, 2021, 07:02:52 PM »

The picture shows the leads that I also leave on in the airplane. From what I can tell, similar to what you are doing. It is easy to separate and join leads away from the timer. I leave longer leads attached to the Jeti box so that I am not plugging into the Box, but the box leads. With long leads, I don't have to stay bent over very far when programming with the plane on the ground. The small 4 cell pack NiXX pack is very useful at home or in the field.

Maksim Dubovitsky · « **Reply #28 on:** December 10, 2021, 11:27:54 PM »

Fred, in the "timer and jeti box" photo, you have a small connector between the sensor and the timer. I plan to do the same, but I can not find a suitable 4-pin connector - all too large in size. What is the name of the connector you use?

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #29 on:** December 11, 2021, 08:22:42 AM »

Quote from: Fred Underwood on December 09, 2021, 07:02:52 PM

The picture shows the leads that I also leave on in the airplane. From what I can tell, similar to what you are doing. It is easy to separate and join leads away from the timer. I leave longer leads attached to the Jeti box so that I am not plugging into the Box, but the box leads. With long leads, I don't have to stay bent over very far when programming with the plane on the ground. The small 4 cell pack NiXX pack is very useful at home or in the field.

Fred: A question on the sensor. In addition to the connector on the sensor lead, which I like and will need soon, is there any reason the sensor cannot be in the fuselage? In my new design, first one fully designed from pencil to paint for electric I am building a very large bottom hatch to give me access from the bellcrank to the logarithmic flap horn. I would like to mount the sensor on an adjustable platform inside the wing hatch so I can use adjustment screws to align it from the outside. Also, is there any real difference in performance between vertical and horizontal positioning. I assume not. I am also making an assumption that it only needs to be level along the long axis.

Ken

Fred Underwood · « **Reply #30 on:** December 11, 2021, 09:59:11 AM »

Ken,
I put the sensor in a profile fuse here

https://stunthanger.com/smf/gettin-all-amp'ed-up!/old-dog-new-trics-old-plane-new-rogerio-fiorotti-timer/

and in a "box" beside the fuse here

https://stunthanger.com/smf/gettin-all-amp'ed-up!/another-dog-another-'tric-fiorotti-v4-4-timer-with-accelerometer/

You can see the box on the fuse bottom attached to the fuse.

Hatch in the wing would be similar to a built fuse, so it is fine. You will have to adjust to find a good position around the CG. I have a friend who mounted his sensor in the battery compartment, or fuse front, and it seems to work fine (not specifically recommended, but seems ok). The sensor must be aligned with lead wires coming out of the front, toward the nose, even if sensor in front of CG. Sensor width must be aligned flat with wing length and sensor length must be aligned flat with level wing cord. My sensor is fairly far aft of CG and works fine. I hope that answers your question on alignment.

Sensor wire connector info to follow.

Fred Underwood · « **Reply #31 on:** December 11, 2021, 10:30:12 AM »

Sensor header connectors are shown in the attached photo. I use Arduino headers male and female. You can read the labels on the packages. I have the crimped style connectors, from a friend, but don't have the crimper, and I am used to soldering. Cut the sensor lead and attach the header parts, include shrink tubing insolation. Or make a path from the sensor to the timer mount and leave it together. You can cut a hole (slot that is sensor size) through the wing firewall and leave it all intact. My reason for cutting and splicing is to stay within a 3/4" OD fuse for profile and to then feed the spliced connector through a tunnel. Neither the timer nor sensor will pass.

Maksim Dubovitsky · « **Reply #32 on:** December 12, 2021, 04:45:51 AM »

Thanks Fred!

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #33 on:** December 12, 2021, 09:03:28 AM »

Quote from: Fred Underwood on December 11, 2021, 10:30:12 AM

You can cut a hole (slot that is sensor size) through the wing firewall and leave it all intact. My reason for cutting and splicing is to stay within a 3/4" OD fuse for profile and to then feed the spliced connector through a tunnel. Neither the timer nor sensor will pass.

This is EXACTLY what I was looking for!

Now to design the circuitry to make it so that I don't have to take off hatches and fumble with the internal wiring. One thing I learned from my years in aircraft maintenance in the USAF was that most accidents are caused by preventive maintenance.

Ken

Mark wood · « **Reply #34 on:** December 13, 2021, 02:04:04 PM »

Quote from: Ken Culbertson on December 12, 2021, 09:03:28 AM

This is EXACTLY what I was looking for!
Now to design the circuitry to make it so that I don't have to take off hatches and fumble with the internal wiring. One thing I learned from my years in aircraft maintenance in the USAF was that most accidents are caused by preventive maintenance.

Ken

Preventative maintenance is the primary cause of wear.

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #35 on:** December 13, 2021, 03:01:36 PM »

Question to the "You know more than me" group here. Is there a difference between the ESC1 and ECS2 connections? In other words can you put the Spin 44 on ESC2 and the Jetti Box on ESC1? In my setup, ESC2 is really hard to reach and there is no room for extensions either. Next one gets a maintenance panel. You can only bend a wire so many times before it breaks.

Ken

Rogerio Fiorotti · « **Reply #36 on:** December 13, 2021, 03:20:09 PM »

Folks,

I don't understand the subject about extensions, I have sent the extension to connect to JetiBox with the timer. Are you getting it?

Ken, the JetiBox connection port cannot be changed.

Rogerio

Mark wood · « **Reply #37 on:** December 13, 2021, 03:38:30 PM »

Quote from: Ken Culbertson on December 13, 2021, 03:01:36 PM

Question to the "You know more than me" group here. Is there a difference between the ESC1 and ECS2 connections? In other words can you put the Spin 44 on ESC2 and the Jetti Box on ESC1? In my setup, ESC2 is really hard to reach and there is no room for extensions either. Next one gets a maintenance panel. You can only bend a wire so many times before it breaks.

Ken

No, there are three sets of pins. Jeti, ESC1 and ESC2 The Jeti is for data communication to the Jeti box. ESC1 is the primary motor for single and twin. ESC2 is for the slave number two motor. The ESC plugs don't communicate only output. I I just "permanently" plug an extension in to the Jeti one and the ESC into ESC1 and stow the extension in the fuse for flight. Actually I use a male to male there like what Rogirio ships with the timer but longer.

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #38 on:** December 13, 2021, 05:17:39 PM »

Quote from: Mark wood on December 13, 2021, 03:38:30 PM

No, there are three sets of pins. Jeti, ESC1 and ESC2 The Jeti is for data communication to the Jeti box. ESC1 is the primary motor for single and twin. ESC2 is for the slave number two motor. The ESC plugs don't communicate only output. I I just "permanently" plug an extension in to the Jeti one and the ESC into ESC1 and stow the extension in the fuse for flight. Actually I use a male to male there like what Rogirio ships with the timer but longer.

Which version do you have? I have V6. V5 is different. Mine is ESC1, Landing Gear, ESC2 Jetti Box in that order. The ESC has a black connector and a red connector. I fly with black connected to ESC1. Program Timer with Balck to ESC1 and Jetti to ESC2. Program Spin44 with Red from ESC and timer disconnected. It appears to be working this way but the logistics of field changes are a mess. What prompted my question is that it also worked if I reversed ESC1 and ESC2. All of the help on the forum is for versions 4 and 5. 6 appears to be fairly new.

Ken

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #39 on:** December 13, 2021, 05:24:36 PM »

Quote from: Rogerio Fiorotti on December 13, 2021, 03:20:09 PM

Folks,

I don't understand the subject about extensions, I have sent the extension to connect to JetiBox with the timer. Are you getting it?

Ken, the JetiBox connection port cannot be changed.

Rogerio

What is prompting all of this is the tight space that I have for the timer (my fault) and having to disconnect it to program the ESC. It takes a lot of pushing on bent wires to get it done. Bending these small wires is not a good thing. All of the illustrations I can find for connecting to the Spin ESC are for the older versions of the timer. The reason for the extensions is that the timer needs to be disconnected from the Spin in order to program the ESC.

Am I correct that the Jetti port is Labeled ESC2?

Ken

Fred Underwood · « **Reply #40 on:** December 13, 2021, 05:54:42 PM »

Rogerio's site shows the timer and has the pin labeled for the new versions of V6.
http://www.cltimer.com/

http://www.cltimer.com/wa_files/CL_20Timer_20v6_20EN.pdf

Jeti box and ESC2 share pins. If you are not using a second ESC, those pins are free. At present, you must be able to access the pins to plug in the Jeti Box, and also thepins for ESC1, though tight as you noted. Remove your connections and put a 4,6, or 8" extension on the pins, then connect the ESC to the pins of ESC1 via the extension. You can connect and disconnect as needed at the extension/ESC junction instead of the ESC pin junction. Similar for the ESC2/Jeti box connection. Just hook up the Jeti box to the extension or add other length of extensions to make connections easy. I never attach the Jeti box directly to the timer pins, but the extension.

So yes, the Jeti box shares pins with ESC2.

Fred Underwood · « **Reply #41 on:** December 13, 2021, 06:07:57 PM »

Quote from: Ken Culbertson on December 13, 2021, 05:17:39 PM

The ESC has a black connector and a red connector. I fly with black connected to ESC1. Program Timer with Balck to ESC1 and Jetti to ESC2. Program Spin44 with Red from ESC and timer disconnected. It appears to be working this way but the logistics of field changes are a mess. What prompted my question is that it also worked if I reversed ESC1 and ESC2.
Ken

I believe V6.4 has pins parallel with the board and earlier V.6 versions had the pins perpendicular. Functions of landing gear and G-force were added. I am not sure about "reversing ESC1 and ESC2." If you add appropriate extensions to get the leads to a serviceable position, changes should be easy. I use them in profile and have also seem extensions help in full fuse. You will have a bit or long/loose wiring to deal with, but the connections should be easy. Label the connections so that you don't mix them up.

Mark wood · « **Reply #42 on:** December 13, 2021, 06:16:26 PM »

Quote from: Ken Culbertson on December 13, 2021, 05:24:36 PM

What is prompting all of this is the tight space that I have for the timer (my fault) and having to disconnect it to program the ESC. It takes a lot of pushing on bent wires to get it done. Bending these small wires is not a good thing. All of the illustrations I can find for connecting to the Spin ESC are for the older versions of the timer. The reason for the extensions is that the timer needs to be disconnected from the Spin in order to program the ESC.

Am I correct that the Jetti port is Labeled ESC2?

Ken

Yes, it is multi function port. My bad.

Here is a the instructions for V6. you should have them.

CL_20Timer_20v6_20ENue

This is for V5

CL_20Timer_20v5_Eng

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #43 on:** December 14, 2021, 05:25:57 PM »

Once I got all of the info as to which port does what it was simple to set up an outside access panel to program both the timer and ESC (if necessary) without taking off hatches or disconnecting anything. $20 on Amazon and I have enough cables, switches, connectors, little breadboards, etc. to last me for the rest of my life.

Indulge me, it is building season and I like making things adjustable. I will post pictures - Ken

Fred Underwood · « **Reply #44 on:** December 14, 2021, 06:16:07 PM »

It will be interesting to see what you come up with. If I understand, you will have an external panel to connect the programming leads of timer and ESC with the Jeti box, and a switch to disconnect (switch off) the ESC connection from the timer so that you can program or read the ESC.

Mark wood · « **Reply #45 on:** December 14, 2021, 06:19:20 PM »

Quote from: Ken Culbertson on December 14, 2021, 05:25:57 PM

Once I got all of the info as to which port does what it was simple to set up an outside access panel to program both the timer and ESC (if necessary) without taking off hatches or disconnecting anything. $20 on Amazon and I have enough cables, switches, connectors, little breadboards, etc. to last me for the rest of my life.

Indulge me, it is building season and I like making things adjustable. I will post pictures - Ken

I do the same thing for the ESC, just run a jumper cable out and stow it for flight. I have to say though, I haven't touched the ESC in 150 flights after getting things sorted out.

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #46 on:** December 14, 2021, 06:25:33 PM »

Quote from: Fred Underwood on December 14, 2021, 06:16:07 PM

It will be interesting to see what you come up with. If I understand, you will have an external panel to connect the programming leads of timer and ESC with the Jeti box, and a switch to disconnect (switch off) the ESC connection from the timer so that you can program or read the ESC.

You got it. Main reason is trim sessions. Opening up the hood when you have to change the battery is one thing but "takeoff/land/tweak, takeoff/land/tweak gets to be a real pain. I have two flush mounted Male connectors through the side and a small three wire on/off switch. Super simple. I am finishing it tomorrow. Pictures

I was tempted to leave the ESC alone but my addiction to making things complicated won out.

Ken

Mark wood · « **Reply #47 on:** December 14, 2021, 06:48:50 PM »

Quote from: Ken Culbertson on December 14, 2021, 06:25:33 PM

I was tempted to leave the ESC alone but my addiction to making things complicated won out.

Ken

Sometimes that's the fun part.

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #48 on:** December 15, 2021, 07:54:07 PM »

Quote from: Mark wood on December 14, 2021, 06:48:50 PM

Sometimes that's the fun part.

I promised pictures so here they are. First draft. It will be covered with a 1/32" balsa and monokoted to match the original cover. The open wires are just a pass through. Male on one end Female on the other. The little switches turn the timer off so you can program the ESC. It works. I can program both without opening the panel. I was shocked how cheap all of the DYI electronics stuff is. I have enough cables, connectors, switches, breadboards to last well into the 22 century. You can by 1 for $10 or 25 for $6.95. Amazon amazes me daily.

Ken

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #49 on:** December 16, 2021, 11:36:27 AM »

The profile does not have room for all of the wiring necessary. Proof of concept 100% Success. Installed just the timer part into the Trifecta. Works as advertised. Nothing needs to be removed to change settings on the timer! With my bum knee it is a blessing to not have to kneel down and take off panels!

One thing I noticed while testing was that sometimes, not always, when the timer gives you the "bump" to let you know that it is counting down, the sound is a bit off/rough and the prop only turns a revolution or two, or not at all. If you move the prop afterword's there is a slight resistance. I suspect this is normal. I am still not completely familiar with it's noises. After doing this the countdown and the run goes normally. When I arm the ESC (Spin44 Pro) it also gives you a quick bump but the motor is free until the timer is turned on.

Ken

I forgot - I am doing the testing with a battery at storage voltage. It reads 40%.