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Author Topic: Switch ON and dead, zip-o.  (Read 2646 times)

Offline Dennis Toth

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Switch ON and dead, zip-o.
« on: February 25, 2025, 02:01:52 PM »
I finally got a break to get back in the air after some rather chilly weather and unpacking at the new house (still unpacking but closer). So out to the field with the trusty Rescue Ringmaster. The last time I flew it was back in July last year, all was good. Then we moved here to NC. Well, the Ring was one of the three ships I was able to bring in the car when we left FL. It has been inside but not flown.  So, today's the day, got the packs charged and all the tools sorted out to bring. We have nice temps and light wind. Go to the field, which is in ok shape. Get the lines set up and battery plugged in, final check of the area for problem, all good - Flip on the start switch and ....NOTHING. No beep, no clicks, no light on the ESC. I checked all the connections, and all seems as it should be. I come home and swap out the battery (was only going to do some short hop flights to get my sealegs back), still nothing. Next I swap out the timer, still nothing. So now I think there is an issue with the ESC? I'm thinking maybe something with the connectors or the start switch, not sure why because it has just been sitting inside and AC controlled house. Anyone have any ideas?

Best,   DennisT

Offline John Rist

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Re: Switch ON and dead, zip-o.
« Reply #1 on: February 25, 2025, 02:32:51 PM »
John Rist
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Offline Dennis Toth

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Re: Switch ON and dead, zip-o.
« Reply #2 on: February 25, 2025, 03:08:04 PM »
John,
Thanks for the tips. I am still unpacking and trying to find all my stuff is a challenge. I have the servo tester but not sure which box it is in. Do you think I could check it to Castle Link? I think this eliminates the power pack so one less thing in the loop. All the wiring looks good, no cracks or splits, end and solder joints are tight.

Do you think I could get away with a talon 25 ESC? The ship is a S1 Ringmaster at 34oz, currently pulls about 16 amp. This would save almost 1/2oz.

Best,  DennisT
« Last Edit: February 25, 2025, 04:02:09 PM by Dennis Toth »

Offline Crist Rigotti

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Re: Switch ON and dead, zip-o.
« Reply #3 on: February 25, 2025, 05:17:24 PM »
Flick the switch on/off fast at least a dozen times.  My guess it that the switch contacts need cleaning.
Crist
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Electric - The Future of Old Time Stunt

Offline John Rist

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Re: Switch ON and dead, zip-o.
« Reply #4 on: February 25, 2025, 09:16:32 PM »

Do you think I could get away with a talon 25 ESC? The ship is a S1 Ringmaster at 34oz, currently pulls about 16 amp. This would save almost 1/2oz.

Best,  DennisT

Yes it should work. Especially if the 16 amps is the current draw on the ground.  Current goes down as the airplane becomes airborne and unloads.
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Offline Dennis Toth

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Re: Switch ON and dead, zip-o.
« Reply #5 on: February 26, 2025, 08:01:46 PM »
OK, I checked the switch with a resistance meter and it is fine. Next hooked ESC up to Castle Link and my PC. ESC lite up and took program changes (update rpm a bit). So next will check wires with resistance meter to make sure the connection to the board is good. If that is good just going to replace it (likely with the Talon 25, save 1/2oz). If the solder joints check out I'll send the unit out to Castle.

Best,    DennisT

Offline Dennis Toth

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Re: Switch ON and dead, zip-o.
« Reply #6 on: March 20, 2025, 01:07:50 PM »
Update: Well after I purchased a new ESC I needed to remove the bullet connectors (still unloading stuff in the new house ins NC, airplane stuff is last priority) and as I removed the heat shrink from the negative lead the connector just popped off. Seems I was getting away with a bad solder joint and it finally failed. Better on the ground then at the top of the overhead eight!!!.For now I will install the Talon 35 back in the Ringmaster but when my bullet connector order comes in will swap it out for the Talon 25 and save 1/2oz (this ship needs every bit I can save).

Best,    DennisT

Offline Dennis Toth

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Re: Switch ON and dead, zip-o.
« Reply #7 on: March 24, 2025, 11:15:44 AM »
Update addendum: After cleaning the bullet connector I re-soldered it and did a pull test (was solid) and continuity check back to the ESC board. All was now good, while I was at it I checked the other lead and all was good. OK, added on the shrink insulation and reinstalled in the Ringmaster. With the prop off, I did a 10 sec run test and all worked as programed.

I guess the tip off should have been when I was able to connect and program with castle link that something was preventing power to the board. If I would have checked the continuity at that point, I would have found the break.

Best,   DennisT 


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