Author Topic: Fiorotti Timer (Read 207893 times)

Larry Wong · « **Reply #150 on:** October 22, 2024, 09:33:09 AM »

If I change to a Spin 66 pro from a Castle do I have to keep the slide switch ? and push the button on the Fiorotti timer?

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #151 on:** October 22, 2024, 03:21:22 PM »

Quote from: Larry Wong on October 22, 2024, 09:33:09 AM

If I change to a Spin 66 pro from a Castle do I have to keep the slide switch ? and push the button on the Fiorotti timer?

Yes, you should.

ken

Fred Underwood · « **Reply #152 on:** October 22, 2024, 04:05:03 PM »

The timer starts with the button. The switch can be left "on" and in the plane. Taped in the on position so that it will not go off. You can cut it off and solder wires together, or "on."

Fred Underwood · « **Reply #153 on:** October 22, 2024, 04:27:02 PM »

G-force is not restrained by the Max and Min numbers used for sensitivity. As you suggested, G-force is around 3 normally. G-force will try to force the plane lap time and acceleration to achieve the G-force. Rpm for G-force will likely force slowing to reach the "desired" or set number but should have to stop at the limits set in the ESC. So, it was continually in action to slow the plane trying to reach the 1.75 eveen level flight.

Most G-force errors are mistakes in setting. At least mine are. I actually haven't flown with the error, but have done it a few times and caught the mistake. I am very carreful on when on the G-force screen. When you scroll through the functions, it is easy to go up or down when the cursor in on G-force and change the number when you wanted to advance the cursor to Decrease or Increase on the same screen. If this happened and you are sure that you haven't changed anything, or are sure that you haven't attached the Jeti Box just before the G-force change, then perhaps a malfunction.

G-force will recalibrate with a set rpm change. You can change the RPM by 1 up or down and it will recalibrate. There is a forced recalibratation as well.

To carry out the recalibration when without RPM change,
press and hold the START button to begin the flight
(instead of the usual press and release) until the LED
flashes quickly

Please let us know if you figure it out or solve the problem, or not.

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #154 on:** October 22, 2024, 05:18:38 PM »

Quote from: Fred Underwood on October 22, 2024, 04:05:03 PM

The timer starts with the button. The switch can be left "on" and in the plane. Taped in the on position so that it will not go off. You can cut it off and solder wires together, or "on."

I am going to do what I thought was unthinkable, I am going to disagree with Fred. I am currently building a twin with two Spin 33. I was concerned about having two esc's on the single battery and what I should do about the switch. Should I wire the on/off switch to a single switch or as some suggested just short them and let the arming plug power things up. So I did something totally our of character, I asked Jeti. The answer I got was to not bypass the switch. It only provides power to the timer and it needs a few milliseconds to charge the ESC properly before it is ready to communicate with the timer. They also said it could cause damage to the timer or improper initialization which is probably more to protect them than us. I have seen it improperly initialize when I forgot to turn the switch off and changed batteries. The timer refused to start. It acted like it armed but it didn't. Turning the switch off then on fixed it. I know a lot of people leave the switch wired on but I don't anymore.

Ken

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #155 on:** October 22, 2024, 06:22:35 PM »

Quote from: Fred Underwood on October 22, 2024, 04:27:02 PM

G-force is not restrained by the Max and Min numbers used for sensitivity. As you suggested, G-force is around 3 normally. G-force will try to force the plane lap time and acceleration to achieve the G-force. Rpm for G-force will likely force slowing to reach the "desired" or set number but should have to stop at the limits set in the ESC. So, it was continually in action to slow the plane trying to reach the 1.75 eveen level flight.

Most G-force errors are mistakes in setting. At least mine are. I actually haven't flown with the error, but have done it a few times and caught the mistake. I am very carreful on when on the G-force screen. When you scroll through the functions, it is easy to go up or down when the cursor in on G-force and change the number when you wanted to advance the cursor to Decrease or Increase on the same screen. If this happened and you are sure that you haven't changed anything, or are sure that you haven't attached the Jeti Box just before the G-force change, then perhaps a malfunction.

G-force will recalibrate with a set rpm change. You can change the RPM by 1 up or down and it will recalibrate. There is a forced recalibratation as well.

To carry out the recalibration when without RPM change,
press and hold the START button to begin the flight
(instead of the usual press and release) until the LED
flashes quickly

Please let us know if you figure it out or solve the problem, or not.

This is another item that should be in the set of instructions. I find it unbelievable that the set of instructions that come with various timers are so incomplete. It's been 6+ years now and still no complete instruction manual for this timer. I'm guessing the designer just doesn't want to put the time into it. Unbelievable.

Fred Underwood · « **Reply #156 on:** October 22, 2024, 07:23:53 PM »

Quote from: Ken Culbertson on October 22, 2024, 05:18:38 PM

I am going to do what I thought was unthinkable, I am going to disagree with Fred. I am currently building a twin with two Spin 33. I was concerned about having two esc's on the single battery and what I should do about the switch. Should I wire the on/off switch to a single switch or as some suggested just short them and let the arming plug power things up. So I did something totally our of character, I asked Jeti. The answer I got was to not bypass the switch. It only provides power to the timer and it needs a few milliseconds to charge the ESC properly before it is ready to communicate with the timer. They also said it could cause damage to the timer or improper initialization which is probably more to protect them than us. I have seen it improperly initialize when I forgot to turn the switch off and changed batteries. The timer refused to start. It acted like it armed but it didn't. Turning the switch off then on fixed it. I know a lot of people leave the switch wired on but I don't anymore.

Ken

No problem with disagreeing :-). Jeti knows what is best for tghe ESC, and maybe more so for 2 ESCs. I have many flights with the switch taped "on" and out of reach, and then removed the switch on the next plane. I have not seen a problem with the ESC or timer, but perhaps I am fortunate. I know others have done similar. For the timer to function, it needs to be cycled off, no battery connection or perhaps a switch off and on, and the button then pushed. If you push the button to stop the motor, the timer will not restart (should not and mine hasn't) with a button push without the cycle of no battery connection.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #157 on:** October 23, 2024, 01:28:15 PM »

Looks like the manual has been updated! Thank you.

Fred Underwood · « **Reply #158 on:** October 23, 2024, 06:17:41 PM »

The latest update of the Fiorotti timer manual that I'm aware of was noted earlier in this thread, linked below. A PDF for download.

https://stunthanger.com/smf/gettin-all-amp'ed-up!/fiortti-timer/?action=dlattach;attach=344785

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #159 on:** October 24, 2024, 12:00:40 AM »

Quote from: Fred Underwood on October 23, 2024, 06:17:41 PM

The latest update of the Fiorotti timer manual that I'm aware of was noted earlier in this thread, linked below. A PDF for download.

https://stunthanger.com/smf/gettin-all-amp'ed-up!/fiortti-timer/?action=dlattach;attach=344785

Thanks for the link. I just read the entire manual and it is an improvement. However one item has me confused.

"Note that with either option the wiring must run toward
the model nose and sensor should be aligned parallel to
the fuselage." Where does the wiring start? Timer or Sensor? If it is at the timer which is logical then the sensor needs to be in front of the timer which is not logical. Does this imply the the sensor wires need to stay parallel to the fuselage as well?

Ken

Fred Underwood · « **Reply #160 on:** October 24, 2024, 12:03:50 PM »

The more complete manual quote is

Sensor Position:

You have 2 options to install the sensor:
Normal – Sensor flat side pointing down.
Reverse – Sensor flat side pointing up.
To change option press START.

Note that with either option the wiring must run toward
the model nose and sensor should be aligned parallel to
the fuselage.

If the installed sensor position is inverted from its
functional position, your accelerometer will not work
properly and you will notice that the light continues to
flash even after landing, until the battery is disconnected.
You will need to change the sensor position setting.

Thanks for comment and opportunity to clarify. The heading for your quote is about sensor position. The wiring needs to point toward the nose as it leaves the sensor. Between the sensor and timer, the wiring can be lengthened, shortened, or positioned as needed. The sensor is oriented properly front to back when the wires exit toward the nose. This is necessary even if you have the sensor in the nose ahead of the timer. Though that positsion is not suggested in the instructions, it has been done and worked, when the wires exited the sensor pointed forward, and failed when the wires exited the sensor pointed back toward the timer. The wires should be restrained at sensor exit so that if the length of wire shifts, it does not move the sensor.

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #161 on:** October 24, 2024, 03:07:59 PM »

Last weekend a friend of mine drove a long way to an out of town meet and had his plane destroyed on a practice flight by a prop strike. I have lost two the same way. Short of using the self-balancing BadAss props (see pic, yes it kept flying) is there anything we can do with the Jeti-Fioretti combination to achieve at least some protection. I have lost two the same way - prop strikes, breaks a blade, motor keeps running and vibrates the nose off of the plane. I think the Jeti-Fiorotti combination is top drawer except for this rather serious flaw. Most of what I want is in the Fiorotti so is there perhaps another ESC that has prop strike? Using the Jeti box to maintain both is a big +, I would hate to give that up.

Ken

Fred Underwood · « **Reply #162 on:** October 26, 2024, 05:46:07 PM »

I'm not sure who offers prop strike protection. I searched the 3 words timer prop strike in tshe forum search and found a lot of good information and explanations. I started with KR, and it has protection, if you wait to launch until it reaches full rpm. If you use a soft launch, as it spools, then no protection. It looks like Climb and Dive also has protection, but I don't think the others do. Many suggest using ESC features for protection, with some good explanations in the links from search. Unfortunately, prop strike protection doesn't help to pay for the good carbon props :-).

Like the table saw automatic blade stop.

Paul Richardson1 · « **Reply #163 on:** November 27, 2024, 08:50:22 PM »

Question for people who are using the Fiorotti timer with Jeti esc’s ?
What mode do you run your ESC in?

Constant RPM (3d Heli)
Constant RPM Auto
Fast Response
Normal

I think most my tuning and setup issues have been with the ESC and not the timer, But keen to hear other’s setups?
Thanks :-)

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #164 on:** November 27, 2024, 09:49:45 PM »

Constant RPM

Dwayne Donnelly · « **Reply #165 on:** January 03, 2025, 08:20:56 AM »

Just got my new timer and there's new settings for G Force, G=G's now which I'm sure I can figure out when trimming my plane but there's also a D and I now, can anyone please explain them?
Thank you

Fred Underwood · « **Reply #166 on:** January 03, 2025, 11:07:15 AM »

Hopefully this will help.

https://stunthanger.com/smf/gettin-all-amp'ed-up!/fiorotti-timer-instructions-for-version-v6-5/msg678567/#msg678567

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #167 on:** January 12, 2025, 12:46:42 PM »

Can someone explain the relevance of the BEC voltage. The Fiorotti specs says 5Vcc with a Max 5.5Vcc. I assume that means it can take a lower voltage which explains why it works perfectly with my Spin Pro 33 ESC that says the BEC voltage is 3A. Many ESC's I look at say they are 3/5V switchable. Can anybody de-confuse me?

Ken

Fred Underwood · « **Reply #168 on:** January 12, 2025, 02:15:05 PM »

I looked at a few sites that list the 33 Pro. 5.5V and 3 amps seems correct for the BEC, like the 44 and 66 Pro. The BEC voltage powers the timer and over 5.5 is too much. I doubt the 3V would actually work. You could probably use a volt meter to confirm the actual output voltage.

From the Spin Pro site
"SPIN pro controller include a new type of voltage stabilizer for receiver and servos, the so called switching BEC with an output voltage of 5.5 V. The use of this feature opens the way to the use of BEC for models operating at higher voltages."

Fred

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #169 on:** January 12, 2025, 03:13:08 PM »

Quote from: Fred Underwood on January 12, 2025, 02:15:05 PM

I looked at a few sites that list the 33 Pro. 5.5V and 3 amps seems correct for the BEC, like the 44 and 66 Pro. The BEC voltage powers the timer and over 5.5 is too much. I doubt the 3V would actually work. You could probably use a volt meter to confirm the actual output voltage.

From the Spin Pro site
"SPIN pro controller include a new type of voltage stabilizer for receiver and servos, the so called switching BEC with an output voltage of 5.5 V. The use of this feature opens the way to the use of BEC for models operating at higher voltages."

Fred

It is 3A. I corrected that in my post. It drives me crazy when they all use different measurements for the same thing. 3A could very well be at 5V but they don't tell you

Like you said, it probably would not work on 3V and it does, so it is probably 5V coming from the ESC.

Ken

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #170 on:** March 24, 2025, 04:34:41 PM »

Does anybody know how to add a secondary LED to a Fiorotti? I cannot move the timer and I cannot see the light where it is located. I thought I could piggy back off of the landing gear circuit but apparently it is a closed circuit, and the light stays on all the time. I wonder if the timer could be modified to have the LED on a wire lead instead of fixed to the timer.

Ken

Howard Rush · « **Reply #171 on:** March 24, 2025, 05:55:23 PM »

Quote from: Ken Culbertson on March 24, 2025, 04:34:41 PM

Does anybody know how to add a secondary LED to a Fiorotti?

Nobody credible.

Fred Underwood · « **Reply #172 on:** March 24, 2025, 08:17:47 PM »

The bottom of a timer shows the LED power by the 2 solder points next to the chip. You can see where you could solder, next to the chip, or at the pin and the end of "470" but what LED will you use?You could potentially unsolder the LED and then solder leads to it, and leads to the post removal sites. But removing the LED mught over heat the chip. OTOH, the chip is soldered itself.

I haven't played with the retract signal. How are you getting solid signal or blinking? Neg/ground to power or to signal? Have you tried to look at the output of the retract pins with a volt meter?

Have you tried Howard who seems eager to help?

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #173 on:** March 24, 2025, 08:31:06 PM »

I sent Rogerio a PM and he is going to build me one with a detached LED on a 12" wire.

That is long enough to let me stick it where the sun don't shine. You can't see them in the sun.

Ken

I did try touching the leads to a LED to the two points you mentioned and got nothing. I tried the external LED hooked to the LG pins with the wires on either side. One side flashed, the other stayed steady but nothing happened when the timer signaled retract or extend.

Fred Underwood · « **Reply #174 on:** March 25, 2025, 02:23:36 PM »

I removed the LED and reattached it on wires as below. It works fine. If the timer looks slightly different than your v6.5, it was one I had with the pins at right angles to accomodate my install in a profile. It works fine on the Jeti box (programs still usable) and the light works as before. Of course, if Rogerio will make and send, all the better.

Shorts,David · « **Reply #175 on:** March 25, 2025, 03:07:04 PM »

Is there anyway to get one repaired?. I must have connected something backward when I first got it. Twin motor function doesn't work and you can't program it. About 10-20 flights before I had to replace it.

Fred Underwood · « **Reply #176 on:** March 25, 2025, 03:50:48 PM »

You might look at this thread, but it sounds like you actually burned/destroyed the chip, or connection to it. You would likely have to send it to Rogerio, but shipping both ways, the chip and programming doesn't sound economically feasable. If one could obtain and replace the chip here, then you still need a propritary program.

https://stunthanger.com/smf/gettin-all-amp'ed-up!/fiorotti-help/msg652955/#msg652955

Just my thoughts, sorry if it isn't helpful.
Fred

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #177 on:** May 12, 2025, 12:35:29 PM »

Does anyone know what the +- setting for ESC #2 mean in terms of RPM's. With the +- setting at .0000 my inboard (ESC 1) is turning at 9300 RPM and the Outboard (ESC 2) is at 9100. This is causing yaw in the areas of the pattern where G-Force is quite active. The yaw in the up leg of the hourglass makes for a sloppy 2nd corner and appears to be causing a short loosening of line tension just following the corner. It makes getting the plane on the wingover path at the top really difficult. I think I want to have the motors running the same RPM.

Ken

.

Fred Underwood · « **Reply #178 on:** May 12, 2025, 01:42:20 PM »

I will give this a try based on my experience with single motor.

If you have set the ESC Max and Min at about 4000 difference, say a low of 7000 rpm and Max at 11000 rpm then 1 click of the timer is about 10rpm and 0.002ms. The Firortti has 400 clicks of adjustment, so 10 rpm/click if the 4000 difference in the ESC. I use this to approximate RPM change to adjust lap time and it works as a good approximation.

For Nose up and for ESC 2, a click is 0.001 ms, so only about 5 rpm. You have 100 clicks up and 100 clicks down on ESC 2 as I recall, so you can move the RPM of motor 2 up or down by up to 500 rpm.

I think that small variations in electronics and motors account for the difference in base rpm ot the 2 setups. I claim no expertise in making that statement, just my guess. The difference does exist, so now the ESC 2 settings allow for correction or your choice of compensation.

After guessing or estimating the number of clicks, then you can (maybe should) measure actual rpm of each motor.

If you are concerned about the base rpm differences, try swapping motor positions, or ESCs to see if there is a difference, but maybe more effort than the curiosity deserves.

Fred

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #179 on:** May 12, 2025, 04:55:52 PM »

Based on what you posted I need -.0020 not -.0002 to reduce @2 to 9100 from 9300. I suspect the difference is in the motors. 9100 seems a bit slow for what everybody else posts but I am using a 6 pitch set of props so maybe not.

Ken

Dwayne Donnelly · « **Reply #180 on:** May 26, 2025, 11:37:24 AM »

For those running the new timer, what settings do you have the G-Force set at, say I wanted to dial in some more line tension in the outside loop of the overhead 8, is there as way to do that?

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #181 on:** May 26, 2025, 01:33:52 PM »

Quote from: Dwayne Donnelly on May 26, 2025, 11:37:24 AM

For those running the new timer, what settings do you have the G-Force set at, say I wanted to dial in some more line tension in the outside loop of the overhead 8, is there as way to do that?

I think starting with 6.5 G-Force is set by the timer. It recalibrates based on lap time (base RPM). I set mine at 3.0. per the instructions and left it there. I was disappointed in the difference in 6.4 and 6.5 for the same reason you are but one wiser than me coached me to leave it alone and after getting my lap time right it was right as well. I have a 6.6 which allegedly only differs by the addition a different signal for the LED. Three settings. 1.The old way. 2. only on at start, calibrate and 10 seconds before cutoff and 3. Different blinking patterns for boost and break. Kinda cool. The LED also seems brighter.

Ken

Fred Underwood · « **Reply #182 on:** May 26, 2025, 04:39:04 PM »

How not to use it :)
G-Force is measured by the timer, even if you aren't using the function. Example, it can be used to help lower gear if using retracts even if you are not using the function of g-force. You can also set the g-force by putting in a number. If your g-force is not the actual measured g-force, then the timer will try to reach your desired or set g-force by adjusting rpm and speed to obtain that number. That can be a problem and slow the plane to decrease the force to your setting or speed up and use up your battery to reach a higher g-force than it would have by your other settings. It can be useful if you figure out how to use that but mostly may get you in trouble. Easy solution is to leave g-force to the timer and don't change it from timer calibrated. Also, if you do set it, it will still recalibrate every time you change set rpm.

How to use it.
Leave the number along and scroll past to I and D. That is increase and decrease rpm. The settings are in percent. Try 5 - 10% in either or each and you will likely notice a significant difference overhead and perhaps at up wind with the plane blowing in and downwind with the plane blowing out. When the plane is directly overhead you are loosing 1 g of force and similar with the plane being pushed in or blown out. Depending on you numbers for I and D, you will hear and feel rpm and pull in appropriate positions.

It will change rpm and resultant line tension overhead, not necessarily different for insides and outsides. If tension is different on outsides and insides, consider trim changes. That said, a bit more rpm, may be helpful for tension even if you get a bit more tension inside than outside.

Dwayne Donnelly · « **Reply #183 on:** May 27, 2025, 03:58:27 PM »

Quote from: Fred Underwood on May 26, 2025, 04:39:04 PM

How not to use it
G-Force is measured by the timer, even if you aren't using the function. Example, it can be used to help lower gear if using retracts even if you are not using the function of g-force. You can also set the g-force by putting in a number. If your g-force is not the actual measured g-force, then the timer will try to reach your desired or set g-force by adjusting rpm and speed to obtain that number. That can be a problem and slow the plane to decrease the force to your setting or speed up and use up your battery to reach a higher g-force than it would have by your other settings. It can be useful if you figure out how to use that but mostly may get you in trouble. Easy solution is to leave g-force to the timer and don't change it from timer calibrated. Also, if you do set it, it will still recalibrate every time you change set rpm.

How to use it.
Leave the number along and scroll past to I and D. That is increase and decrease rpm. The settings are in percent. Try 5 - 10% in either or each and you will likely notice a significant difference overhead and perhaps at up wind with the plane blowing in and downwind with the plane blowing out. When the plane is directly overhead you are loosing 1 g of force and similar with the plane being pushed in or blown out. Depending on you numbers for I and D, you will hear and feel rpm and pull in appropriate positions.

It will change rpm and resultant line tension overhead, not necessarily different for insides and outsides. If tension is different on outsides and insides, consider trim changes. That said, a bit more rpm, may be helpful for tension even if you get a bit more tension inside than outside.

Thanks Fred, so if I understand the G-Force came set at 2.98, leave that alone and set the others to D005% and I005% as a start and go from there?
thanks

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #184 on:** May 27, 2025, 06:45:07 PM »

Dwane - I have my G-Force set at D=25 I=40. It appears to be working. Fred should be writing the manuals. I still haven't figured out if + on ESC 2 differential means slower or faster. Such is life.

Ken

Fred Underwood · « **Reply #185 on:** May 27, 2025, 06:51:05 PM »

Since you are saying that it was set at 2.98 (any number) suggests that you have not used it yet and it has not actually calibrated in a flight. That would be the case if you have not yet tried I and or D. I think that a reading of around 3.1 - 3.2 is common with flying, for reference, but not a number to worry about unless it is way off from that.

5% of either or each is a reasonable place to begin and if you don't notice it, go to 10% and then once you know that it is acting, adjust to taste.

When it is calibrating, you will get fairly rapid blinking for about 3.5 - 4 laps where you should be flying level.

Please post after trying it to let us know how youi like it.

Dwayne Donnelly · « **Reply #186 on:** May 30, 2025, 12:09:16 PM »

Quote from: Fred Underwood on May 27, 2025, 06:51:05 PM

Please post after trying it to let us know how youi like it.

Well not good and I have no idea why. First thing is it was a breezy day today with gusts around 25Kph, I played with the D and I settings and all I could get it to do was speed up in insides and slow down in outsides, I ended up with the D and I set at 40% and the plane whipped up so fast in the inside loops I might as well be flying glow. The esc is Jeti 44 pro programmed they way Rogario suggests, the sensor is leveled I checked it 3 times and in the correct orientation , I have no idea what I'm doing wrong, oh and one other thing, the RPM PWM on my old V6.4 version was set at only 114 to get the desired flight speed, on my new 6.5V I had to set at 255 to get the same lap times on the same plane.

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #187 on:** May 30, 2025, 01:34:09 PM »

Quote from: Dwayne Donnelly on May 30, 2025, 12:09:16 PM

Well not good and I have no idea why. First thing is it was a breezy day today with gusts around 25Kph, I played with the D and I settings and all I could get it to do was speed up in insides and slow down in outsides

I had to start over with G-Force on 6.5. I set both D and I to zero and got my lap times right. 6.5 needs those calibration laps to set the G-Force base. I would not do that in wind. When you have completed the calibration laps at the lap time you want, G-Force should act just like it used to except it will automatically set to maintain tension. Now you can tweak D & I.

Ken

Fred Underwood · « **Reply #188 on:** May 30, 2025, 04:36:45 PM »

G-force will use I and D to add rpm and decrease rpm. It is not a fix for differential rpm outside and inside. Is the timer level both with the wing trailing edge and with the fuse thrust line or center line. Off level with wing trailing edge will give outside and inside differences. Set the plane level and look at the x and y values, then flip the plane and look at the values when inverted. They should be very close to identical.

If the timer is leveled in both directions, look at what affects trim. Are the wings up or down, different from inside to outside. Again, it will run the timer differently.

When you mentioned the timer settings being different, was the ESC changed at all. I see different timer settings if the Max and Min rpm limits in the ESC change.

I use between 5 and 10 on I and D. I don't like high values and abrupt rpm and torque changes. But if you balance lap time plus nose up plus Sens then you need little boost up top. If you try to fly slow laps, then when you need power to maneuver, you add more, so larger values. What is your plane size and weight, line length, lap time for values to start looking at. When you said same plane, did that include same prop and motor and kv?

Fred

Dwayne Donnelly · « **Reply #189 on:** June 03, 2025, 11:54:48 AM »

Went out yesterday still couldn't get it to work so today I put the old V6.4 timer back on, and guess what? It didn't work either so it has to be the Jeti spin pro 44, I programmed it per instructions on Rogerio's web page, checked and double checked, so I'm stumped, I can still fly with G-Force off and it still has boost but would nice to get the g-force working.

Fred Underwood · « **Reply #190 on:** June 03, 2025, 01:16:03 PM »

PM sent. What is working on 6.4 and what is not? Are you saying that G-force does nothing, or doesn't correct inside vs outside?

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #191 on:** June 03, 2025, 03:37:55 PM »

Dwane:

If I understand this correctly, and that is always in doubt

, G-Force is only going to become active if the plane loses tension (g's) regardless of the elevation. This is just "pie in the sky" free thinking but I have been there many times with this timer. Is it possible that Nose Up is giving it everything it thinks it needs? Try turning Nose Up off and see if you get a boost. It will be delayed but there. Second, and I know nothing of the why of this, but the sensor pad orientation could be wrong. I have found that making it square to the flight path works better than square to the fuselage. Usually about 1-2 degrees. I have also made sure that it calibrates, even if I force it.

Ken

Dwayne Donnelly · « **Reply #192 on:** June 04, 2025, 09:35:57 AM »

Thanks guys, crazy windy up here and going away for a bit, hopefully will get back out next week.