has anyone have idea on how to extend the start button on a full fuselage ?

Quote from: Larry Wong on October 15, 2021, 01:10:40 PM
has anyone have idea on how to extend the start button on a full fuselage ?

There seem to be no really great options.  You can glue a dowel extension of the same diameter or do what I am doing and mount it to the back of a removable hatch.  One thing I really liked about the Huben was the optional start button.

Ken

Solutions for profiles.

Full fuselage solutions

It has been reported that CA and/or kicker can ruin the switch, so be careful if gluing an extension.  From what i can tell, the switch is a 2 pin momentary micro button switch.  On the older version, the button is about 6mm above the face of the switch.  One of the switches below might work.  I had an old non working timer and removed the switch without too much difficulty. 

https://www.amazon.com/TWTADE-Momentary-ButtonTact-Assortment-QC-9V-2P/dp/B085SWHFMK/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=push+button+micro+switch+2+pin&qid=1634337907&sr=8-4


https://www.ebay.com/itm/292275046056?hash=item440cf346a8:g:GzAAAOSwKNJZzx5I

https://www.ebay.com/itm/293696573394?hash=item4461ae0fd2:g:T7kAAOSwGQJfPGB1
See sellers store for other length.

Update to this.
The button switch on V4 is 2 pin and fairly easily removed.  I was going to change the V6 to a longer button switch, but the V6 has a 4 pin switch and a chip is on the other side of the board blocking easy access to the solder joints.  I did not try to work on the V6.

deleted, duplicate

Quote from: Fred Underwood on October 15, 2021, 08:25:28 PM

Fred:  If I go from an 11-6 three to an 11-6 two, how much should I be upping RPM PWM1?  Right now it is at 215 which was where I flew it on the 3 blade.  That gave me somewhere around 9,000.  I am thinking maybe 230?.  Should be about 9,700. That is what I ran my Cobra 3520 on using an 11-6 two blade APC or MAS.  I am testing two new BA wood props.

Does changing RPM automatically adjust MAX/MIN?

Ken

The Max and Min rpm settings slide up and down with the base rpm to keep the deltas the same, I think in all of the V6 versions.  For a one time check, when you change rpm, check after change to be sure that the Max/'Min changed.

There are 400 steps in RPM setting.  My experience is that a step is about 8 - 12 rpm.  On my 12 x 5 Igor 3 blade the rpm is about about 400 lower than with the 11 x 5 3 blade and that is about 35 steps (not actual PWM number, but timer steps) lower.  That is in the 10.8k down to 10.4k rpm range.  Interesting that my 235 number gives about 10.4 and 275 gives about 10.8k rpm.  I think that you get some variation on the actual number based on other timer and ESC settings. 

I used the Xoar wood 2 blades and they worked well and are light weight.  Not very expensive, but can be hard to find.

I hope that helps.

Fly a minute or so and check your lap time or run the risk of killing a battery, or having a long slow flight :-)

Quote from: Fred Underwood on November 17, 2021, 05:27:11 PM
I used the Xoar wood 2 blades and they worked well and are light weight.  Not very expensive, but can be hard to find.

I ran it up on the BadAss 11-6 and I think I am going to up the base to 250 for my first flight tests.  The BA was very smooth and quiet.  I have used the XOAR on smaller motors.  Liked them.  Ultimate goal is a good CF three blade.  Thanks for the help.
Ken

Quote from: Larry Wong on October 15, 2021, 01:10:40 PM
has anyone have idea on how to extend the start button on a full fuselage ?

The start button is my singular not so happy place on this timer. Mine is simply installed the way Rogerio states in the installation instructions with a piece of command strip. Seems to work okay but needs to be squished back in sometimes. I gave up on making a fancy mount and went for two holes drilled in the side.

Quote from: Mark wood on November 18, 2021, 08:49:59 AM
The start button is my singular not so happy place on this timer. Mine is simply installed the way Rogerio states in the installation instructions with a piece of command strip. Seems to work okay but needs to be squished back in sometimes. I gave up on making a fancy mount and went for two holes drilled in the side.

I installed mine flush on the back of a 1/32" plywood hatch.  I use a block on the inside to hold in place.  No adhesive.  Stays put and easy to remove.  My only problem(s) with the timer so far are getting the ESC on the right pins in poor light (I keep putting it on the LG pins) and getting RPM set.  I would prefer an actual RPM displayed on the Jetti instead of that "code".  Other than that I love it.

Please forgive the rather sloppy finishing.  This is a test bed for all kinds of Crap things brush painted over monokote at my office desk.  Plane looks great from 10'
Ken

Quote from: Ken Culbertson on November 18, 2021, 10:53:47 AM
I installed mine flush on the back of a 1/32" plywood hatch.  I use a block on the inside to hold in place.  No adhesive.  Stays put and easy to remove.  My only problem(s) with the timer so far are getting the ESC on the right pins in poor light (I keep putting it on the LG pins) and getting RPM set.  I would prefer an actual RPM displayed on the Jetti instead of that "code".  Other than that I love it.

Please forgive the rather sloppy finishing.  This is a test bed for all kinds of Crap things brush painted over monokote at my office desk.  Plane looks great from 10'
Ken

If'n I find motivation, I'll probably make a 3D printed mounting device. That is likely to happen on the next build. The Fiorotti was installed in already completed airplanes and I'm generally lazy. I have many other projects in the fire.

Quote from: Fred Underwood on November 17, 2021, 05:27:11 PM
Fly a minute or so and check your lap time or run the risk of killing a battery, or having a long slow flight :-)

Update for you and Rogerio:
Finally able to put in a few more flights.  Turned on Nose Up and G-Force.  I have never experienced an hourglass before where the overhead turns were so easy.  I actually have nearly the same tension directly overhead as I do down low.  Some of that was the lines, I am trying the new .0145 three strand lines from Ukraine and they have substantially less drag so my leadouts are probably a tad further back than necessary.  But, WOW that bump climbing and powering through the turns then backing off so that I could hold the down leg all the way --- priceless.  First time in wind too.  About 10-12 and there was practically no wind up.  It also seems to be easier to hold shape in the rounds.  The plane is still completely untrimmed.  Only one thing is off - everything.  I have wings level and that is about it.

Super happy with battery performance using the Jetti/Fiortti.  TP 5s 2800 lands at 28% remaining using a 3 blade 11-6 MAS.

I must be doing something wrong with sequencing.  Twice the motor has failed to start when everything appears normal.  If you have started the timer then hit the off switch, is there a time you need to wait before starting again?  Twice I have had to stop the startup sequence and restart.  Battery connected, switch on, wait for prop to wiggle, hit timer start button wait for mini burst..  Twice I have not gotten the mini burst and the motor never started.  Turning it off and waiting about 20 seconds and restarting worked.

So far I am giving the timer an "A".  If it was easier to mount and had a remote start button like the Huben it would get an "A+"

Ken

Quote from: Ken Culbertson on November 30, 2021, 04:37:21 PM
Update for you and Rogerio:
Finally able to put in a few more flights.  Turned on Nose Up and G-Force.  I have never experienced an hourglass before where the overhead turns were so easy.  I actually have nearly the same tension directly overhead as I do down low.  Some of that was the lines, I am trying the new .0145 three strand lines from Ukraine and they have substantially less drag so my leadouts are probably a tad further back than necessary.  But, WOW that bump climbing and powering through the turns then backing off so that I could hold the down leg all the way --- priceless.  First time in wind too.  About 10-12 and there was practically no wind up.  It also seems to be easier to hold shape in the rounds.  The plane is still completely untrimmed.  Only one thing is off - everything.  I have wings level and that is about it.

Super happy with battery performance using the Jetti/Fiortti.  TP 5s 2800 lands at 28% remaining using a 3 blade 11-6 MAS.

I must be doing something wrong with sequencing.  Twice the motor has failed to start when everything appears normal.  If you have started the timer then hit the off switch, is there a time you need to wait before starting again?  Twice I have had to stop the startup sequence and restart.  Battery connected, switch on, wait for prop to wiggle, hit timer start button wait for mini burst..  Twice I have not gotten the mini burst and the motor never started.  Turning it off and waiting about 20 seconds and restarting worked.

So far I am giving the timer an "A".  If it was easier to mount and had a remote start button like the Huben it would get an "A+"

Ken

You have to hold the button down until the LED turns on. Are you doing that?

Quote from: Ken Culbertson on November 30, 2021, 04:37:21 PM
Update for you and Rogerio:
Finally able to put in a few more flights.  Turned on Nose Up and G-Force.  I have never experienced an hourglass before where the overhead turns were so easy.  I actually have nearly the same tension directly overhead as I do down low.  Some of that was the lines, I am trying the new .0145 three strand lines from Ukraine and they have substantially less drag so my leadouts are probably a tad further back than necessary.  But, WOW that bump climbing and powering through the turns then backing off so that I could hold the down leg all the way --- priceless.  First time in wind too.  About 10-12 and there was practically no wind up.  It also seems to be easier to hold shape in the rounds.  The plane is still completely untrimmed.  Only one thing is off - everything.  I have wings level and that is about it.
Ken

Yep, that sounds about right :-)    Careful, you are helping your competition.


The only reason I have encountered for not starting is pushing the start button too soon.  If you push the button before both a beep and a flash, then no start.  You can tell this because the timer light then does not start flashing.  On a restart, unplug the battery and wait a couple seconds then go through the full sequence.  I think the couple of seconds without power is for the ESC capacitors to power down/off.

Quote from: Ken Culbertson on November 30, 2021, 04:37:21 PM
Update for you and Rogerio:
If it was easier to mount and had a remote start button like the Huben it would get an "A+"
Ken

If you mean a button on wire leads, you could probably do that by removing the button from the board and soldering in a momentary switch on leads in its place.


Update on Dec 11
The 4 pin button switch is not easily removed.  I had been looking at a V4 and that switch is 2 pin with easy access.

Quote from: Mark wood on November 30, 2021, 04:54:13 PM
You have to hold the button down until the LED turns on. Are you doing that?

Yes, Fred's post answered the question.  I have been starting the timer too soon.  With the Castle I was using,  it would sing to you while doing it's thing so you were polite and waited till it finished.

Ken

Quote from: Fred Underwood on November 30, 2021, 05:00:30 PM
Yep, that sounds about right :-)    Careful, you are helping your competition.

They are going to need it!

Ken

Quote from: Ken Culbertson on November 30, 2021, 06:12:14 PM
Yes, Fred's post answered the question.  I have been starting the timer too soon.  With the Castle I was using it sung to you while doing it's thing so you were polite and waited till it finished.

Ken

You're going to be spoiled. The Jeti Fiorotti is a great combo. I like that you can use the same interface. I like the Castles because they are what I have around from the RC days. But the Jeti is better. I've been through all of the Hubins too and the one of those I like the best is the FM0c, otherwise not so much.

Quote from: Rogerio Fiorotti on October 15, 2021, 02:00:58 PM
Solutions for profiles.

Off topic, but -- that is a nice looking motor mount.

Let me pose another question here.  I have trouble with disconnecting the esc to plug it into the Jetti box without having to pull the timer plug as well.  I know that you need to do that, but my concern is that these are very fragile wires and connectors and I worry about breaking wires and loosening connectors not to mention the embarrassment and wasted time that comes after you put them back wrong and the ESC won't arm.

So, my question, is there a small switching plug that would allow you keep the timer plugs plugged in all the time?
I would really like to be able to plug in the Jetti to one port and get the timer and another port to get the ESC.  They could be flush mounted in the fuselage or covered by a hatch.

Are there kits or electronic supplies that let you make custom connectors?   That is a dumb question, of course there are but have any of you done something similar.  Connectors are the #1 and probably also the #2 reason for in air failures and it is not like your motor sputters or goes rich first, it just silently stops.

Ken

Quote from: Ken Culbertson on December 09, 2021, 01:40:37 PM
Are there kits or electronic supplies that let you make custom connectors?

Yes, but you either by the $20 crimping tool at the hobby shop and it's never up to pro standards, or you buy the $200 pro crimping tool and then wonder why you spent all that money.

https://www.maxxprod.com/mpi/mpi-4.html has crimpers and connector kits.  A SPDT slide switch would do the switch-over; yet one of those from a reputable place like DigiKey or Mouser, or roll the dice with surplus places like MPJA Electronics or All Electronics.

The $20 tool (OK, $17 and change from Maxx Products) will work, but you have to know the end goal and be willing to fiddle.

Quote from: Ken Culbertson on December 09, 2021, 01:40:37 PM
Let me pose another question here.  I have trouble with disconnecting the esc to plug it into the Jetti box without having to pull the timer plug as well.  I know that you need to do that, but my concern is that these are very fragile wires and connectors and I worry about breaking wires and loosening connectors not to mention the embarrassment and wasted time that comes after you put them back wrong and the ESC won't arm.

So, my question, is there a small switching plug that would allow you keep the timer plugs plugged in all the time?
I would really like to be able to plug in the Jetti to one port and get the timer and another port to get the ESC.  They could be flush mounted in the fuselage or covered by a hatch.

Are there kits or electronic supplies that let you make custom connectors?   That is a dumb question, of course there are but have any of you done something similar.  Connectors are the #1 and probably also the #2 reason for in air failures and it is not like your motor sputters or goes rich first, it just silently stops.

Ken

Why wouldn't you just get a male to male connection and just stow it when you aren't using it? For $7 on Amazon you can get enough for 10 airplanes delivered to your door.

https://www.amazon.com/DIYmall-10PCS-Servo-Extension-Cable/dp/B016RJ8S42/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=RC+JR+male+to+male+cable&qid=1639084411&sr=8-8

Quote from: Mark wood on December 09, 2021, 02:14:43 PM
Why wouldn't you just get a male to male connection and just stow it when you aren't using it? For $7 on Amazon you can get enough for 10 airplanes delivered to your door.

https://www.amazon.com/DIYmall-10PCS-Servo-Extension-Cable/dp/B016RJ8S42/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=RC+JR+male+to+male+cable&qid=1639084411&sr=8-8

Thanks but I was trying to make this complicated.  That will work.  No, I need an extension cable not a male to male.

Ken

Quote from: Ken Culbertson on December 09, 2021, 02:31:03 PM
Thanks but I was trying to make this complicated.  That will work.  No, I need an extension cable not a male to male.

Ken

The timer side is pins and the Jeti side is pins. Both sides need a male connector I just leave the connector on my timer in the airplane and connect it directly to the Jeti box. I never disconnect my timer from the ESC. That would be way too difficult as the timer in mounted under the battery tray. There isn't any need to connect the other cable to the Jeti box as the power will come through the time connector.

You could get longer ones as well. Or connect an extension to a short jumper from the airplane. The one I have in my plane is about 6". Actually there are two, the other is for the ESC which is also tucked under the battery tray.