stunthanger.com
Electric Stunt => Gettin all AMP'ed up! => Topic started by: jim gilmore on September 19, 2010, 05:45:42 PM
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ok, one of the questions that while may be in another thread in the finishing area.
Whats the best way to achievs a decent finish without dope and not adding ounces to the airframe.
I have planned a way to do color with almost zero extra weight besides putting on silkspan or tissue paper.
But It still needs to have the wooks sealed and the tissue sealed some, to prevent water damage?
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If you're not going to leave it out in the rain, it doesn't need much. Look at "Polyspan" -- it's kind of the heat-shrink answer to tissue. It's great stuff, if a bit difficult to put on at first.
Or use tissue, and just put a coat or two of dope on it for waterproofing.
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Another answer is how long will this plane last and what is your flying skill level. For practice just get it in the air and do not worry about the finish. In Beginner and intermediate levels locally I did not see the appearance points to make much of difference in the outcome of the event. Or maybe you want to practice finishing a plane. If it was myself I would tissue and paint the fuse and cover the rest with shrink covering. And spend the available time practicing or just having fun.
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Well the tissue will be printed, then installed. But I'm not yet sure of what the best way to finish the wood and tissue so it will not just absorb water.
I've tried the floor wax method. But still not sure about the polyurethane stuff yet.
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I'm looking forward to trying tissue and nitrate to seal the wood and then something really light like FloQuil. The stuff really covers and you have a choice of clears from dull to shiny. No oil means the dull coat will last....
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I have had really good results with Nelson paint. It's water based and can be thinned easily.
Here's a website:
http://nelsonhobby.com/
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One thing is for sure: we have a ton of options that we did not have in the past.
On top of that, we can now test-fly in clear, make any changes and then paint!
Back in the good old days, that would have involved the use of something like carbon-tet!
Nitrate up to final clear sounds awfully good to me, but this water-based all the way up approach would be a monstruous benefit.
Regards All,
Dean P.
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I'm about to try Ultracote and acrylics on my new Impact ARC.
John Witt
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I don't think it's wise to forget about fuel proofing all together. True, there is nothing on the model itself which will cause a problem but I have one model in particular which I'm considering renaming "The Fingerprint kid" Unless you fly in a totally IC free environment other flyers have fuel residue etc on hands. I'm the only electric flyer in our club and my models are frequently handled, launched etc by other flyers and I have noticed a deterioration in my finishes (Not that they were ever anything to write home about). Even launching for others over an afternoons flying can leave your hands greasy with fuel residue. True we don't need something which will handle high Nitro percentages or exhaust heat over a long period of time but the need to protect the finish still remains.
TTFN
John.
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John wrote about his-
"The Fingerprint kid"
I know what you are talking about. I hate it when I come to fly only with my electrics and then have to launch one of those greasy ones for someone else.
That's why I like the Nelson paint because it is nitro proof too. When used with the crosslinker (a couple of drops per oz) it's good to 50% nitro.
It's easy to use either brush or spray, cleans up with water and dries quickly. I'm not an expert finisher of models but it works well for me.
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I like the idea of water based paints but have had bad experience using water based polyurethane on balsa.
Are Nitrate based paints available?
Paint over 'kote is probably viable too.
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I like the idea of water based paints but have had bad experience using water based polyurethane on balsa.
What was your bad experience? In my (very limited) experience it's working out fine -- I want to know what bad things are in store for me!
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What was your bad experience? In my (very limited) experience it's working out fine -- I want to know what bad things are in store for me!
Hi Tim
This was on a balsa-skinned sailplane I did awhile back. When I applied the water-poly the water made the balsa "explode" that is the balsa absorbed the water and expanded, making it kind of grainy/lumpy. Easy enough to sand out, except when you sand out the hi spots and re-cote, the newly exposed expands again, etc. I kind of worked it to a draw and "settled" for a resonable result, but it would have been FAR easier to finish with dope - albeit I could not have done it indoors in the wintertime without incurring the wrath of the spousal unit...
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Im building a foam wing...going to be fully sheeted with 1/20 balsa skins and finish cure epoxy to adhere as well as substrate to final finish. Glassing the center section and carbon veil the works. Wing mounted gear. Color may be Brodak with an automotive clear.
The fuse has a molded top and bottom blocks and a standard fuse and crutch... all from 3/32 balsa and geodetic formers from F4 back. Stab and elevators are built up, sheeted 1/16th and tapered in three axis root to tip.
Sounds heavy doesn't it? Last one weighed 59oz. with a built up wing and dope finish and about 720 sq. This one will be back down to 650 ish....debating flap % and structure but i like the way a 3/4 span flap behaves. Im looking for stiff surfaces and gambling that I can get enough electric power to counter any possible weight issues.