HI ECL Flyers,

Several people have asked for my ESC and Timer settings. I thought it might be useful to post them here. As we all know, these settings are valid only if the SAME prop, and brand of equipment as mine is used. These settings will give you 5 sec. lap times and ALL the power you would ever need to fly the full pattern with approx 10 extra laps. (this extra time can be reduced after you feel comfortable with your ECL setup. :-)

These settings are the results of much experimentation (9 props and a lot of fiddling around, etc.) and a great deal of help from Will Moore, and my friends here on Robert's excellent forum. I have NOT changed these settings or the prop for the past 100+ flights. Every ECL flight has been as good, or better than, the best wet engine run I have seen at a contest.

If you use the same equipment as mine (AKA the ECL "STANDARD" package ;-), these settings will give you a very good start and almost guarantee a successful 1st ECL flight! 

EQUIPMENT:

PLANE ....Brodak  ARF  P-40  Take off weight (TOW) 57oz   (60 with ET test equip. on board)
LG ...... 1 1/4" longer than std. to clear 12 x 6 prop. and 5/32 size to carry extra wt.
ESC ..... Castle Creations 40A, with computer cable for setup .... VERSION:  V 1.55
TIMER.... JMP ... Excellent (still in stock, but out of production) will use KAZ timer in future.
PROP .... APC 12 x6 "E" prop. .... < $6,  but still best I found, even better than $65 CF props!
BATTERY .... TP 4S2P  14.8V  4,200 mAh and/or EVO (same) ... Flt. Temp 122 F
MOTOR ..... AXI 2826/10 ........ Level Flt. RPM 9,180 ...  Flt Temp 119 F
LINES ....... 62' Eye to Eye

ESC .... SETTINGS:

BASIC:

Cutoff Volts                       Brake Strength
Auto Li-Po                          20%

Cutoff Type                        Brake Delay
Soft Cutoff                          .6 sec (Delayed)

Throttle Type                      Brake Ramp
Heli Governor Hi                  Very Slow

Direction
Forward (or as needed)

ADVANCED:

 Motor Start Po                     PWM Rate
Low (39)    39                       26 Khz

Throttle Respo                      Current Limiting
Low (2)     2                          Normal*

Motor Timing                       
Low Advance

Governor Gain                       Spool-Up Spe
Custom      3                         Custom     1 (or 2)

Use the Castle Creations computer connector cable to hook your ESC up to your home PC. This USB PC cable plugs into the small plug that comes out of your ESC (the same plug that goes into your JMP Timer). The program is very easy to use. The ESC comes with directions to set it up with an RC TX, just ignore these and use your CC USB PC cable to do it on your PC. :-)


JMP TIMER SETTINGS:

Motor run-up time  ................................  30 sec
Total motor run time .............................. 6 min 20 sec (this can be reduced to <6 min later)
Motor run-up speed ................................ 0 steps (this is while you walk to handle)
Motor first flight speed .............................17 steps (approx. 29% sweep of 90 degree servo)
                                                               18 steps OK, but a little fast, 4.9 lap times
Motor second speed ................................. Same as above
DATA ...................................................... Unlock, default, (DON"T touch this feature !!!!!)
Motor sag warning ...................................  ON, (masked in Gov mode, but it's still there)

PLEASE DO "NOT" SET YOUR TIMER WITH THE MOTOR! ...... Like Alan suggested, make a home made programmer. I use Will Moore's design. See pg 2 "JMP Test Unit Photo" in this section of the forum. The servo is under the red pointer (toothpick) and a small Ni Cad battery is under the compass rose, it is all inside the plastic box my AT servo came in. Servo cable plugs into the same timer pin connector that the ESC goes into (unplug ESC cable while programming JMP timer). Then plug the programmers small Ni Cad battery cable into the "Retract" pin connector in the JMP timer. ..... IMPORTANT: Keep polarity in mind when using these plugs, see JMP instructions. ..... TIP: After you set them up correctly, paint the male and female plug the same (I use nail polish) so it is easy to keep the correct polarity next time (use different colors for each "set" of plugs and it will make hook up easy every time you want to program your Timer. :-).

After using the JMP directions, and your home made programmer to setup your timer .... you can then test your setup by just pushing the button, and hold, until the pointer moves ( approx. 4 sec.) Then release the button. Using a stop watch, and looking at the pointer movements, you can see exactly how your flight will go. 

Please use a count down timer for your 1st flights. Set it to the same time as your timer. Remember, in Gov mode the warning blips are masked, and you may not get any warning. For your very 1st flight I would keep the overhead stuff to a minimum until your sure all your programing is correct. Don't ask me how I know about this? 

I hope this short note is helpfull to any newcomers to ECL.

Regards,  

Thierry,
It is pretty typical to get such a low throttle setting (JMP-2 or Ztron) with the CC Phoenix ESC. As far as I understand, it is due to the fact that we want prop rpm's in the 9krpm range with typically 14 magnetic poles whereas the CC ESC governor is really a Electric Helicopter setup where they may be running lower # of magnets and the rotor gearing sets up a different motor rpm range (my guess is much higher motor rpm's).
And as you point out, there is no brake in Governor mode, even though the CC software lets you think you are enabling it (the CC Phoenix ESC documentation does say that brake is disabled in governor mode).

Hi Thierry,

Thank you for your kind words. Your correct, like Alan confirmed in his reply, we do not get a brake with the CC. I just put that in my settings notes so that a new ECL pilot had a setting to put into the "box" in the program and did not have to wonder if he was leaving something out! I think they are the leftover settings from my pre "enlightened" days, before I finally listened to Kim and went to gov mode.  (Thanks Kim! :-)

 I know you FAI pilots have the "stop the prop" issue that we do not have to deal with, yet. Here in the USA I still recommend the CC ESC to new ECL pilots that are watching their model budgets because they can use their PC for easy programing. With that said, like you, I have switched over to the JetiSpin ESCs for my present, and all future projects because I like their program box and their added features. This is the same reason that I am going to the KAZ timers with his very cool program box that allows us to easily see EXACTLY where our power setting is when we set it. I should have mine flying next week, if our 75F WX holds. We don't fly here in the winter if it gets below 70F or the wind gets over 5 mph! (CA Wimps ;-)

RE: the low step setting. Alan is spot on in his explanation.

BTW: if anyone is flying in non-Gov mode and then switches to Gov mode without changing their step from about 48 down to the required 17, they will be in for a VERY exciting flight! The lap times will be around <3.8 sec, they will use 4,480 mAh out of their 4,200 mAh batteries, and their motor will be panting with it's tongue hanging out! But the combat flyers watching will be green with envy at your speed! Don't ask me how I know this? 

RE: Flight Speed 1 ground RPM?
     Sorry, I do not have this ground info. I used my Eagle Tree on-board flight recorder to gather data for about 50 flights. My Flight Speed 1 RPM is 9,180 "IN FLIGHT" after lap 3. My setup slowly ramps up to this RPM during take off and for the 1st 3 laps making for a very slow, smooth, realistic Take Off and climb to level flight, then a smooth acceleration to full flight speed. I have not used a tac in awhile, relying instead on the flight data recorder.
      A side note, I was surprised that the RPM varied +/- approx. 300 during maneuvers, even in Gov mode. These are only momentary variations, and do not seem to have any negative affect on the flight. I think Alan, and others, have seen similar results on their graphs?

Regards,

 

 I realized that I do have data where I ran the motor statically===no load variations from bouncing about in the air. Here is a plot of that (it is the center plot). This was taken just as I was switching from two 3s2100mAHr in parallel to one 4s2100mAHr lipo.

The first plot is with prop, plane held statically (not flying) and the 3s cells. The center run was without prop but still with the 3s cells. Finally the last run was flying with the 4s battery.  Anyway the no-load run rpm has few fluctuations, but even the static run under considerable load (steady I think) shows fluctuations.

I am not positive what exactly it means!

Not Rudy, but I bought an AstroFLite  "Super Whatt Meter" ---
http://www.astroflight.com/store/store-type-tem.html?item=products:af-101d&sid=0001hUtbTOBfq5Y4C41b6N5
There are others out there that are fancier and some that are simpler. I bought the Astro because I think it has a pretty good precision. It also helped that it was "made" here in the USA (a guilt trip after buying so much Chinese stuff!).

I also use the EagleTree Data logger both in the air and on the ground, but it seems to be off a little (a couple amps out of 20 for example). You can also get a clamp-on meter, but they really aren't any cheaper, and I am not sure of their accuracy either. But of course, 10% is really good enough for what we do. Consistency rather than absolute accuracy is the most important.

Watt! No Whatt Meter!

Well being who I am,, I will most certainly fly the beast the first time as prescribed. However I have a prop "fetixh" as it were especially for wood props. I cant see myself NOT experimenting some anyway. I have ordered a watt meter and will use it though I have everyconfindence that the system Rudy oultlines will function but,, well I just like having all the toys to ensure sucess or at least not failure. Is there a number I should be looking for on the ground ? how  many watts ? I understand every system is different but  a range perhaps.
thanks again,,

Rudy,
Unfortunately your logic fails at the "save you some time and money" statement! 

When it comes to ECL, there is a definite disconnect between the neurons and the wallet!

Yes, keep on saying "I am saving money on fuel,....saving money on fuel, .....saving money on fuel,......

You are now under the control of ECL. We control the horizontal, we control the vertical........

Rudy,
(with serious hat on) I don't really disagree with you. However I look at the Watt meter as the equivalent of a tach (need that too!). When its cost is less than 1/2 of a "Big-Boy" battery, I think it makes sense to have it to protect one's investment.

On the other hand, the EagleTree Data Recorder really is over the top for someone who just wants to fly.

But as you also know, wet-CL has its engine guru's, and I often get into arguments there too! I find electric motors a lot easier to understand though than a glow (or spark) engine. Hate to admit I have a lathe and mini-mill so I can produce my own $100 venturi's and spraybars. Now you can see where my illness comes from!

Hi Alan,

Well said. .... I too share your illness. I am fearful that there is no cure for us?

On a lighter note, Maybe we should introduce ECL to the world with the headline:

Techies welcome to ECL, many fun "Techie Tools" to play with, ...... Normal, well adjusted personalities, also welcome to ECL, Techie tools optional! 

Regards,