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Author Topic: ESC's for CL  (Read 2851 times)

Online Carl Cisneros

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ESC's for CL
« on: July 06, 2014, 08:27:41 PM »
Other than the Castle esc's, are there any other esc's available we can use for CL flying? 

thanks much

Carl R Cisneros, Dist IV
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Offline Larry Wong

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Re: ESC's for CL
« Reply #1 on: July 06, 2014, 09:19:51 PM »
Schulzeis a good ESC y1 and more.
Larry

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Online Carl Cisneros

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Re: ESC's for CL
« Reply #2 on: July 06, 2014, 09:33:30 PM »
yes indeed they are, but they have gone the way of the Chevy Corvair tho............... :'(

I know there are some still around tho
I believe Icare has them. will check them out

Carl R Cisneros, Dist IV
Control Line RB

Offline Tim Wescott

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Re: ESC's for CL
« Reply #3 on: July 06, 2014, 09:34:20 PM »
There's lots of good choices, some of which depend on what timer you're using and some of which depend on what you want to get out of your system.
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The problem with electric is that once you get the smoke generator and sound system installed, the plane is too heavy.

Online Carl Cisneros

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Re: ESC's for CL
« Reply #4 on: July 06, 2014, 09:44:15 PM »
Enquiring minds want to know please,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Mainly for sport use
Carl R Cisneros, Dist IV
Control Line RB

Offline John Rist

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Re: ESC's for CL
« Reply #5 on: July 07, 2014, 07:47:02 AM »
I have had good results with a cheep speed controller and a KR timer.  The KR takes care of controlling RPMs.  I am using a Turnigy 60 A speed controller and a KR timer in 576 Ringmaster (big Ringmaster with 576 squire inch wing).  Flies great - never had a problem.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__2166__TURNIGY_Plush_60amp_Speed_Controller.html  $34.98

http://www.rsmdistribution.com/index-2.htm  KRPKG  KR Governor Ver .2 with Switch & Programmer  $49.50

This setup does not provide any of the data logging however for sport flying it seems to be bullet proof.  If you don't need a 60 amp controller any of the Trunigy Plush controllers will work.  By the way you also will need the Trunigy program card.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__2169__TURNIGY_BESC_Programming_Card.html  $6.95

PS The KR timer requires soldering skills.  However anybody that is flying electric needs to learn how to make a good solder joint.
« Last Edit: July 07, 2014, 10:28:29 AM by John Rist »
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Online Crist Rigotti

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Re: ESC's for CL
« Reply #6 on: July 07, 2014, 12:22:14 PM »
Enquiring minds want to know please,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Mainly for sport use


Look at the "List your set up" at the top of this forum to get an idea.
Crist
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Offline Keith Renecle

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Re: ESC's for CL
« Reply #7 on: July 07, 2014, 11:28:17 PM »
I have had good results with a cheep speed controller and a KR timer.  The KR takes care of controlling RPMs.  I am using a Turnigy 60 A speed controller and a KR timer in 576 Ringmaster (big Ringmaster with 576 squire inch wing).  Flies great - never had a problem.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__2166__TURNIGY_Plush_60amp_Speed_Controller.html  $34.98

http://www.rsmdistribution.com/index-2.htm  KRPKG  KR Governor Ver .2 with Switch & Programmer  $49.50

This setup does not provide any of the data logging however for sport flying it seems to be bullet proof.  If you don't need a 60 amp controller any of the Trunigy Plush controllers will work.  By the way you also will need the Trunigy program card.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__2169__TURNIGY_BESC_Programming_Card.html  $6.95

PS The KR timer requires soldering skills.  However anybody that is flying electric needs to learn how to make a good solder joint.

Hi Carl, It's always good to have an enquiring mind, so here is some info for you and also why I designed the KR Governor timer in the first place.

To fly stunt nicely you need a fairly constant speed. I use the word "nicely" instead of precision, accurate, top competition etc. because it is just sooooo nice to fly stunt (even just sport stunt) with a good power package that does not slow down on the uphills and speed up on the downhills. Good stunt engines achieve this by means of high torque, correct port timing, tuned pipes, right venture size, head shapes, special glow plugs, 4-strokes, diesels etc. etc. If you fly with most stock R/C engines they speed up and slow down just where you don't want them to. Now these brushless motors come along with huge power but also need to be tamed or else they slow down going up and speed up as the load decreases. To cure this the electronics guys came up with governor programs in the electronic speed controllers or esc's. This holds the rpm more or less constant no matter what the load is. It was first made for the 3-D helicopter folks who like to keep a constant rpm while changing the collective pitch on the rotors.

When I first started out playing with electric stunt, there were basically two good esc's with good governors.....the Jeti Spin and Schultze, and both were, and still are....expensive. There are a few cheap esc's around that also have governors but they are not as good as the Jeti or Schultze and these days, the Castle Creations. One of the other reasons is also that the cheap ones do not allow you to use the prop brake function when the motor shuts down. A spinning prop slows your model down very quickly and then for those that fly the FAI pattern, the rules state that the prop must basically stop. After burning out a few Jeti's............mostly from my own lack of experience, it became a costly exercise for me and I really wanted to provide some way for sport fliers and newcomers to fly electric stunt without breaking the bank. I came up with an external governor that works by reading the rpm pulses from any one of the motor wires and uses this in a feedback loop to keep the rpm constant. This allows the use of most of the cheaper esc's and you get a good governor system. As John mentioned there is one wire to solder to any one of the motor wire connectors, but other than that, it is very simple and RSM can set it up to suit your particular model as well.

The CC esc has the advantage of have a data recorder and their governor is also very good. Used with the Hubin FM-9 timer and LCD programmer, it makes for a very good system. At the top of the line right now, is Igor Burger's active regulation systems that uses a 3-axis accelerometer device to add rpm when climbing and decreases when going nose down. This simulates the 4/2/4 break system of a pro-stunt glow engine very well, or maybe even better because it is more reliable in differing weather conditions. It works with the Jeti Spin esc's and is programmed by means of the Jetibox programmer.

So there you have it. Lots of choices........just like the good old stunt engine days!

Keith R

Keith R

Online Carl Cisneros

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Re: ESC's for CL
« Reply #8 on: July 08, 2014, 12:00:55 AM »
thanks guys and especially Keith.
I am going to go the KR route and I have a few Plush ESC's around as well.

am planning on turning an RC model into a CL bird over the summer months

just something to relax and have some fun with.


this one:  http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__54666__HobbyKing_Arcus_F3A_Aerobatic_Biplane_EPO_1000mm_PNF_US_Warehouse_.html

I already have the model and just need to get the timer/regulator. (bellcrank and a few bits.

Carl
Carl R Cisneros, Dist IV
Control Line RB

Offline Tim Wescott

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Re: ESC's for CL
« Reply #9 on: July 08, 2014, 12:32:22 AM »
Here's a better link:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__54666__HobbyKing_Arcus_F3A_Aerobatic_Biplane_EPO_1000mm_PNF_US_Warehouse_.html

That should work OK, but don't give in to the temptation to use the ailerons for flaps -- the elevator's too small.

Otherwise it should be fun.  Might even do the pattern in the right hands.
AMA 64232

The problem with electric is that once you get the smoke generator and sound system installed, the plane is too heavy.

Offline John Rist

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Re: ESC's for CL
« Reply #10 on: July 08, 2014, 08:02:19 AM »
Remember that now you you have the drag of lines.  It actually takes a little more power to fly control line.  Also maneuvers are tighter.  You don't have 400 ft lines  LL~.

So keep it as light as possible.  Remove every thing you can. Take out all of the servos, receiver, etc. Also keep us posted on how it all works.  Sounds like a fun project.
John Rist
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