Author Topic: Eletric motor from Hobbyking (Read 8355 times)

Guilherme Souza · « **on:** January 13, 2012, 05:03:25 AM »

Dear all

My name is Guil , I'm from Brazil
I'm trying to start my eletric conversion
I already have Will Rubin Timer , 2 ESC 80 A and 50A (this Castle Ice lite) 3 battery 4S 3000 mhA
My big problem is the motor , I need to buy a motor from Hobbyking , because is cheap ( I know that the quality is not so good) and I can receive by mail, we dont have this motors in Brazil for a good price.

Someone could help me to choose a motor from Hobbyking ?Just to start my conversion

I want to fly a ARF Pathfinder or a SV-11

Thank you in advance

Guil

John Rist · « **Reply #1 on:** January 13, 2012, 07:56:32 AM »

I am flying a Brodak LA-5 on a Turnigy C3548-900 with an 11 x 5.5P prop and a 4S battery pack. LA-5 has a 52" span and 502 sq in wing. She is heavy at 5 lb (lots of scale detail). SO far this setup works well - plenty of power - especially for a scale. For stunt you will probably need to back mount the motor. It's not that stiff of a motor and the way I mounted it is OK for scale but I wish I had mounted it the other way. PS prop and spinner in picture is for display only. Flight prop is two bladed and a spinner nut.

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #2 on:** January 13, 2012, 09:20:10 AM »

Guil,
at the risk of sounding patronizing,, have you spent any time in the sticky posts at the top of the section in the forum.
there is a LOT of information in them.
the thread "list your setup" is especially helpfull for different airplanes, weights and motors.

Norm Whittles Cookbook is great information too.

I seem to recall that in the list your setup, it should show a setup similar to what you are asking about, At least give you information to select the motor from Hobbyking that most closely replicates other setups..
good luck and have fun, its very entertaining, and educational to read other peoples ideas,,

I think the Adamisins are big proponents of the Turnigy motors for a reference,,

John Cralley · « **Reply #3 on:** January 13, 2012, 12:32:37 PM »

Guil,

As Mark suggests there is at least one SV-II listed in the "List Your Setup".

"Noel Corney's SV11 ARF

Model is a Brodak SV 11 ARF. I replaced the leadouts ,wheels are narrow electric 2-1/2 in and the cowl is held on with magnets. I have a baffle in the cowl inlet at approx 45 degrees pushing air onto the motor and a 1 in round exhaust with a cowl vent to remove hot air from the motor. I have no cooling problems with either battery or controller.

I have fitted a battery isolator as the tank/battery area is very tight,this allows the model to be set up for flight at any time.

Motor: EMAX 2832/05 960 KV this is identical to the Brodak/Arrowind 2832/05 motor
ESC: CC Phoenix Lite ICE 50 amp in fixed rpm mode 8850rpm
Timer: Hubin Fm 9
Prop: 12x6 EP APC
Battery: 3700 Rhino
Power: uses 2380 at home almost sea level 2250 at Dalby
Spinner: from Dude R/C
Lines: 66 ft eye to eye.
Lap time: 5.6sec
Weight: 62oz"

The EMax 2832/05 950KV is close to HobbyKing's Turnigy 42-50 650KV. You might have to use a 5S battery because of the lower KV. Here is a link:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__7069__TGY_AerodriveXp_42_SK_Series_42_50_650Kv_1150w.html

By the way the Emax 2832/05 950KV motor is relatively inexpensive (if you can find a vendor that will ship it to you).

Hope this helps

John

William DeMauro · « **Reply #4 on:** January 13, 2012, 03:16:29 PM »

Hi,
Welcome to Stunt Hanger. If you want to fly the SV11 the batteries you have will not do it. You need a battery that's around a 4s 4000mah. If you are on a budget, my favorite are the Gens Ace 4s 3800 25C batteries for that plane. They are available here http://www.hobbypartz.com/98p-25c-3800-4s1p.html. If you must order everything from HobbyKing these 4s 4000 should work fine, http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9364 . For a motor you can try this one http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18165__Turnigy_Aerodrive_SK3_3548_840kv_Brushless_Outrunner_Motor.html
I also saw these budget motors at a place called Leader hobby ( http://www.leaderhobby.com/ ) that has the lowest prices anywhere that I have found They seem to have similar stuff to Hobby King. Look for any 3548 sized motor that is around 900KV + or- 50KV with a 5mm shaft and around 700+ watts. I tested this one last year and it seemed pretty good http://www.leaderhobby.com/product.asp?ID=9394001100028. There are others, just search 3548. DO NOT BUY ANY BATTERIES FROM LEADER HOBBY. THEY DO NOT HAVE A GOOD REPUTATION ON THE RC MESSAGE BOARDS.
William

Guilherme Souza · « **Reply #5 on:** January 14, 2012, 07:33:26 AM »

I would like to Thank everybody .

I will look the other post and print the cookbook to read a lot of times

Thank you and thank you again

Guil

Guilherme Souza · « **Reply #6 on:** April 30, 2013, 04:36:54 PM »

Hello Everybody

Thank you for your answers

I will start again my E - project

I have this motor : http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=14404

I don´t know if it will work but I will try .

I´m looking for a motor cheap (less than 50 US Dollars ) and capable to use in SV-11 plane

Thank in advance

Guil

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #7 on:** April 30, 2013, 04:48:42 PM »

The (old) rule of thumb is that you need a motor with a peak power of 11 watts per ounce of airplane weight. That motor is rated at 741, and there's the "list your setup" entry that indicates a plane weight of 62oz. That works out to 686W -- so you should be OK.

The motor has a Kv rating of 670 RPM/volt. That means that if you run a 5-cell pack you should be able to run the motor at 9300 RPM. I think that's enough speed -- you could go to 6S and a max RPM of 11,500, but that seems excessive.

You want to plan on 7W/oz average power, or about 434W, for six minutes. That works out to 43.4 watt-hours, and with five cells that means you'll use around 2400mAh of capacity. You want to only use 75% of your charge, so get a pack that's rated at 3100mAh or more (2600mAh if you go to six cells, but your ESC may get more expensive).

The last time I cited these numbers someone stepped in and mentioned that the battery usage isn't so bad with KR regulators (I think that's what was said) -- so if someone contradicts me, they're probably right.

Note that by building such a big plane you're getting locked into fairly expensive everything -- batteries, motors and ESCs are all more expensive. Unlike glow engines which pretty much have the same number of parts that have to be assembled to the same precision (or finer precision for smaller engines), and thus cost about the same amount no matter the size, electric stuff gets cheaper as it gets smaller.

So take that into consideration when you're planning your build...

keith varley · « **Reply #8 on:** May 01, 2013, 11:26:33 AM »

Hi Guil. Nice to see that you are finally getting to this . My personal feeling is that most electric flyers just copy from those with more more technical knowledge . So you are in the right place to get expert advice. Just study the lists of equipment used by people more technically knowledgeable in "LIST YOUR SETUP".
Up here, we are starting to get into the "good flying season" and there is lots of flying going on at our field. Everybody is trying to get ready for the first big contest in May. "The Northwest Regionals."
Don't forget to write a report of your progress.
Maybe we'll meet again soon.
Keith

John Cralley · « **Reply #9 on:** May 01, 2013, 01:30:52 PM »

Just so you know (you probably already do) you will need to use a 5S lipo (5 CELL) battery with that motor (Turnigy G46 670 KV). There is nothing wrong with that but with a 4S battery you will not be able to get enough RPM to do the job.

EDIT: Humm, Guess I should read back up the thread!!!

Tim has already pointed that out!!

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #10 on:** May 01, 2013, 02:11:44 PM »

Quote from: John Cralley on May 01, 2013, 01:30:52 PM

EDIT: Humm, Guess I should read back up the thread!!! Tim has already pointed that out!!

It's amazing what you can do with some theory and the ability to parrot back what other's have said.

Is 9300RPM enough, or does he need six cells?

John Cralley · « **Reply #11 on:** May 01, 2013, 02:41:43 PM »

Good point Tim. I suppose he could go to 6S which should give plenty of room.

Fred Underwood · « **Reply #12 on:** May 01, 2013, 02:51:54 PM »

Using the known 88 fps for 60 mph and the 6" or 0.5' prop pitch

9300 rpm / 60 sec/min = 155 rps * 0.5 ft/rev = 77.5 fps / 88fps * 60mph - 52.84 mph

That is a marginal speed and does not take into account any slippage, or gain if desired. My opinion, formula and flying, is that you will need the more standard approximate 720 - 780 kv with 5 cells, or use 6 cells. The calculation seemed to correspond well with flight speed from lap speed and radar with the 12 x 6 EP and similar calculations with 11 x 5.5 EP

Guilherme Souza · « **Reply #13 on:** May 14, 2013, 08:40:13 PM »

Dear All

I converted an old plane to eletric

The plane is heavy and my motor is not the good one , I think the motor is too big

This is my setup

Motor : Turnigy G46 670 KV

Battery : 4S 3300 B-grade (not good I know just for tests)
Esc - Turnigy 80 A

Propeller : 12x8 normal not for eletric

Timer : FM-9 (Trotle mode ) 75 %

I dont fly yet but i did a small video

My test with this battery one minute I charged 580 mAh , 4 minutes 2080 mAh
I felt a difference when using Turnigy battery not B-grade battery

Can I charge with 3000 mAh ? = 1C

Thank you for all

Guil

John Cralley · « **Reply #14 on:** May 15, 2013, 08:00:25 AM »

Guil,

Looks nice but may still need a 5S battery. Still, as it is now it will probably fly and may be OK. I believe you will be better off with an electric prop (as I am sure you know). I could not see what the RPM was from your video.

Be aware that running you setup in a static situation (not flying) is hard on components especially if you are pushing them near their limits.

Keep us informed as to how your model flies.

Guilherme Souza · « **Reply #15 on:** May 15, 2013, 08:36:15 AM »

Quote from: John Cralley on May 15, 2013, 08:00:25 AM

Guil,

Looks nice but may still need a 5S battery. Still, as it is now it will probably fly and may be OK. I believe you will be better off with an electric prop (as I am sure you know). I could not see what the RPM was from your video.

Be aware that running you setup in a static situation (not flying) is hard on components especially if you are pushing them near their limits.

Keep us informed as to how your model flies.

Dear John

I just did static tests
I will fly this Saturday and tell you the results

But I 'm having some problem
When do I try to use "High RPM" mode and try to set an RPM this is not working ?

If I use Throttle mode and set to 75% the RPM is 8100
I Try to use 9000 in RPM mode but not work

My ESC is Turnigy , Should this be my problem ?

Questions My battery's is getting warm , not hot but warm. IS this normal ?
I notice that using Throttle mode the RPM is not constant . In the begging of battery is high and in the end of time is lower
What do I need to do to get a constant RPM ?

Thank you in advance and excuse me my English mistakes

Guil

MarcusCordeiro · « **Reply #16 on:** May 15, 2013, 09:59:19 AM »

You know Guil, you could use a good teacher....

Marcus

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #17 on:** May 15, 2013, 10:21:48 AM »

Quote from: Guilherme Souza on May 15, 2013, 08:36:15 AM

Dear John

I just did static tests
I will fly this Saturday and tell you the results

But I 'm having some problem
When do I try to use "High RPM" mode and try to set an RPM this is not working ?

If I use Throttle mode and set to 75% the RPM is 8100
I Try to use 9000 in RPM mode but not work

My ESC is Turnigy , Should this be my problem ?

Questions My battery's is getting warm , not hot but warm. IS this normal ?
I notice that using Throttle mode the RPM is not constant . In the begging of battery is high and in the end of time is lower
What do I need to do to get a constant RPM ?

Thank you in advance and excuse me my English mistakes

Guil

In no particular order:

To get a constant RPM you need a governor. The Will Hubin timer does not have a governor (it has no way of knowing the motor speed, so cannot govern it), which means you need an ESC with a governor. If the Turnigy ESC you have has a "helicopter" mode then that's where you should start looking for information on setting it up to govern.

(If the ESC you have does not have a helicopter or other governed mode, then either get another ESC with a governor, or get a Keith Renicle timer).

Yes, RPM will not be constant in throttle mode. This is a direct consequence of how the various parts work. ESC's basically apply a set percentage of the battery voltage to the motor. So with the ESC set at 75%, the motor is getting 75% of the battery voltage (whatever that may be). Motors go at a speed that's more or less determined by the voltage applied (less some variation due to resistance in the circuit -- the more resistance in the motor, ESC and battery, the "softer" the motor RPM is). And finally -- battery voltage sags as the battery discharges. So as your battery discharges, the motor is getting less and less voltage, and going slower and slower.

Governors compensate for this by monitoring the motor speed and adjusting the voltage applied -- basically if the motor is too slow they ramp up the voltage, in the motor is too fast they ramp down the voltage, and if the motor speed is just right they hold steady.

Battery warm but not hot is OK. There's some maximum temperature that you don't want to exceed -- I think it would be called "very warm", but I'd have to go look it up. You want ventilation around your battery in flight.

I'm not sure why your ESC isn't regulating to 9000 RPM. I can think of three reasons it may be having problems, but it may be something else again. You'll have to dig for it yourself, or get someone with more experience with your ESC to tell you, but here's things to check.

1: Your ESC is not set up properly for your motor. Different motors have different numbers of "poles", and all that the ESC "knows" is how fast the poles are going by. If the ESC thinks the motor has more poles than it does it'll drive the thing too slowly; if it thinks the motor has less it'll try to drive it too fast. You need to find out how many poles your motor has and tell your ESC via whatever setup method you have.

2: Your ESC is not in a governor mode. If your ESC has a governor mode at all it's probably "helicopter" mode. I know nothing of your particular ESC -- read the fine manual to find out if it has a governor mode and how to get there.

3: Your ESC is smart enough to know that your batteries are fully charged and you're asking for 90% of the available voltage, and that it'll never be able to hold 9000 RPM through a whole flight. So it's just balking. I doubt this is the case -- it's extra work, and there's all sorts of reasons why this isn't a good idea, but it's the kind of thing a wet-behind-the-ears software engineer might build into the code without realizing how much it'll frustrate users.

John Cralley · « **Reply #18 on:** May 15, 2013, 08:24:34 PM »

Quote from: Guilherme Souza on May 15, 2013, 08:36:15 AM

But I 'm having some problem
When do I try to use "High RPM" mode and try to set an RPM this is not working ?

If I use Throttle mode and set to 75% the RPM is 8100
I Try to use 9000 in RPM mode but not work

My ESC is Turnigy , Should this be my problem ?

Questions My battery's is getting warm , not hot but warm. IS this normal ?
I notice that using Throttle mode the RPM is not constant . In the begging of battery is high and in the end of time is lower
What do I need to do to get a constant RPM ?

Thank you in advance and excuse me my English mistakes

Guil

Hi Guil,

"But I 'm having some problem
When do I try to use "High RPM" mode and try to set an RPM this is not working ?"

With the FM-9 timer the High RPM mode is for a Castle Creations Phoenix or ICE ESC. If you are not drawing too many amps I suggest that you try your Castle Creations ICE 50 ESC. Set the ESC to Governor High Mode and then you can use the "High RPM" settings for the Hubin timer.

"If I use Throttle mode and set to 75% the RPM is 8100
I Try to use 9000 in RPM mode but not work"

Throttle mode will only hold the RPM if you are using a governor ESC (in governor mode). Otherwise the RPMs will slow down as the battery voltage drops during the discharge. The FM-9 timer also has a compensated throttle mode which gradually increases the throttle during the timing period to try to keep the RPM close to constant during the battery discharge. Use this mode and not the the "throttle mode". 9000 RPM is close to maximum for your combination of a KV 670 motor and a 4S battery. You cannot expect to run your motor at 100% for the duration of a flight. The motor should be more in the 80% of maximum to give you some room for the timer to compensate for the battery voltage dropping during discharge.

"My ESC is Turnigy , Should this be my problem ?"

In short yes the ESC may be part of your problem. Again I suggest that you try the CC ICE ESC in governor High mode.

"Questions My battery's is getting warm , not hot but warm. IS this normal ?"

Warm is OK. Hot is not!! (just like Tim says)

"I notice that using Throttle mode the RPM is not constant . In the begging of battery is high and in the end of time is lower
What do I need to do to get a constant RPM ?"

As I said above I think you need a 5S battery or a different motor with a KV in the 800 - 900 range

Don't be discouraged because your plane is going to be a good electric when you have the right combination of electric parts.

Also you English is fine!!

Guilherme Souza · « **Reply #19 on:** May 15, 2013, 09:01:19 PM »

Dear John and Dear Tim

Thank you a lot about the information's

I have a Ice Castle 50 and I have the interlink too , I was waiting to use in a future project

I bought this Turnigy ESC because this ESC has Governor mode (At least this was written in the HK Site) , I bought too he programing card
I will try to use and check if the governor mode is disable .

I will buy some new battery's 5S and 6S and do new tests
Tomorrow I will prepare the CC ESC .
Do I need to do some programing or I just need to plug and use ?

Thank you in advance

Guil

John Cralley · « **Reply #20 on:** May 16, 2013, 08:02:31 AM »

Guil,

"Tomorrow I will prepare the CC ESC .
Do I need to do some programming or I just need to plug and use ?"

You will need to program the ICE using the CC link cable and the software that you can download from Castle Creations (if you are using Windows Vista or Windows 7 you will need to install the software using administrator mode - they have instructions on their web site FAQ section). http://www.magnetmail.net/actions/subscription_form_castle.cfm?subId=696

Here is a setup the should work for you:

#######################################################
# Castle Link Data File
# Created: Thursday, May 16, 2013
# Do Not Edit This File By Hand
#######################################################
Brake Strength: 100
Brake Delay: No Delay
Brake Ramp: Immediate (*)
Cutoff Type: Hard Cutoff (*)
Motor Start Power: 59
Direction: Forward (*)
PWM Rate: 18 Khz (*)
Vehicle Type: Control Line
Throttle Type: Governor Mode
Governor Gain: 40
Initial Spool-Up Rate: 8
Head Speed Change Rate: 8
Auto Rotate Enabled: False
Governor Mode Type: Governor High
Vehicle Setup - Battery Type: LiPo
Vehicle Setup - Number of Cells: 4
Vehicle Setup - Battery Voltage: 14.8000
Vehicle Setup - Gear Ratio: 1.0000
Vehicle Setup - Motor Kv: 670
Vehicle Setup - Motor Number of Poles: 14
Current Limiting: Sensitive
Cutoff Voltage: Auto Li-Po (*)
Motor Timing: 5
Power-On Beep: Enabled (*)
Auto-Lipo Volts/Cell: 3.2 Volts/Cell

Castle Creations software indicates that you cannot get proper governing from your motor/battery combination above 8475 RPM. This does not mean that you cannot run the motor at a higher RPM but if you do the governor will not work at peak performance.

John Hammonds · « **Reply #21 on:** May 16, 2013, 04:34:15 PM »

Quote from: Guilherme Souza on May 15, 2013, 08:36:15 AM

[snip]
If I use Throttle mode and set to 75% the RPM is 8100
I Try to use 9000 in RPM mode but not work
[/snip]

I'm sure the reasons for this are probably as already described by others but what is the Pole count of the G46? I've looked and I can't find anything to back this up but I have a niggling feeling the G46 is a 10 pole motor. I have heard of examples elsewhere where there were issues with some timer/ESC combinations and 10 Pole motors? (But my search logic eludes me at the moment).

Probably not this issue but I thought I would mention it.

TTFN
John,.

John Cralley · « **Reply #22 on:** May 16, 2013, 09:19:59 PM »

Quote from: John Hammonds on May 16, 2013, 04:34:15 PM

I'm sure the reasons for this are probably as already described by others but what is the Pole count of the G46? I've looked and I can't find anything to back this up but I have a niggling feeling the G46 is a 10 pole motor. I have heard of examples elsewhere where there were issues with some timer/ESC combinations and 10 Pole motors? (But my search logic eludes me at the moment).

Good point John, In the Hobbyking discussion about this motor one person says that he counted 12 poles. I suspect that what he counted was 12 sets of windings in which case it probably has 14 magnets and is thus a 14 magnetic pole motor. The 12 winding 14 magnet ratio is very common and that is why I recommended that Guil program his ESC for 14 poles.

Guil, you might want to count the number of magnets in your motor to be sure that I have it right.

Bob Hudak · « **Reply #23 on:** May 17, 2013, 07:59:34 PM »

John,
The same thing was said on the RC forum about the G25 having 12 poles. I took the same assumption that it most likely had 14 magnets because of the 12 poles. Upon it's arrival by mail a quick count of the magnets revealed only 10 .

John Cralley · « **Reply #24 on:** May 17, 2013, 08:25:06 PM »

Quote from: Bob Hudak on May 17, 2013, 07:59:34 PM

John,
The same thing was said on the RC forum about the G25 having 12 poles. I took the same assumption that it most likely had 14 magnets because of the 12 poles. Upon it's arrival by mail a quick count of the magnets revealed only 10 .

Thank you Bob!! It appears that I may have made a wrong guess.

Guil, I think you definitely need to count the number of magnets in your motor and program your ICE ESC accordingly. If yours is the same as Bob's (as I suspect it is) then you have a motor with 10 magnetic poles.

John Hammonds, You may well have been correct in your guess that the G46 is a 10 pole motor!

Guilherme Souza · « **Reply #25 on:** May 17, 2013, 08:37:30 PM »

Dear All

Today I solder the conectors in the CC Ice lite 50 .

I almost burn everyting because I was talking with my son ( 7 years) and change the position of + and -
When I clipped the battery to the esc make a big but big spark and melted the solder

Fortunatelly the esc is normal working great .

I did´nt nothing yet about programing, I did a small test using the old timer setup. The difference was great .
Tomorrow morning I will make the programing using the Interlink software . (I probably will do when arrive in home, I work as Enginner afternoon shift 4 PM to 1AM )
Sunday will be the big test
And tell you as soos as possible

Thank you for all

ps : I bought 2 5 S batterys and a new motor G-25 equivalent a E- Flight 25

Guilherme Souza · « **Reply #26 on:** May 18, 2013, 07:35:33 AM »

Quote from: John Cralley on May 16, 2013, 08:02:31 AM

Guil,

"Tomorrow I will prepare the CC ESC .
Do I need to do some programming or I just need to plug and use ?"

You will need to program the ICE using the CC link cable and the software that you can download from Castle Creations (if you are using Windows Vista or Windows 7 you will need to install the software using administrator mode - they have instructions on their web site FAQ section). http://www.magnetmail.net/actions/subscription_form_castle.cfm?subId=696

Here is a setup the should work for you:

#######################################################
# Castle Link Data File
# Created: Thursday, May 16, 2013
# Do Not Edit This File By Hand
#######################################################
Brake Strength: 100
Brake Delay: No Delay
Brake Ramp: Immediate (*)
Cutoff Type: Hard Cutoff (*)
Motor Start Power: 59
Direction: Forward (*)
PWM Rate: 18 Khz (*)
Vehicle Type: Control Line
Throttle Type: Governor Mode
Governor Gain: 40
Initial Spool-Up Rate: 8
Head Speed Change Rate: 8
Auto Rotate Enabled: False
Governor Mode Type: Governor High
Vehicle Setup - Battery Type: LiPo
Vehicle Setup - Number of Cells: 4
Vehicle Setup - Battery Voltage: 14.8000
Vehicle Setup - Gear Ratio: 1.0000
Vehicle Setup - Motor Kv: 670
Vehicle Setup - Motor Number of Poles: 14
Current Limiting: Sensitive
Cutoff Voltage: Auto Li-Po (*)
Motor Timing: 5
Power-On Beep: Enabled (*)
Auto-Lipo Volts/Cell: 3.2 Volts/Cell

Castle Creations software indicates that you cannot get proper governing from your motor/battery combination above 8475 RPM. This does not mean that you cannot run the motor at a higher RPM but if you do the governor will not work at peak performance.

Dear John

Good news

I change the ESC to ICe LITE and did the setup as you told me

I use the number of poles as you told before 14

The motor star very soft increase the RPM , I set 8200 in Will Hubin programing box but in the Tachometer was 7470 , but the governor mode is working the RPM was 7470/7470 all the time . I did one minute test

Question : If I use a wrong number of poles can this be the cause of difference of RPM ?

Thank you and wait your answer

Guil

John Cralley · « **Reply #27 on:** May 18, 2013, 07:45:10 AM »

"Question : If I use a wrong number of poles can this be the cause of difference of RPM ?

Thank you and wait your answer."

Yes, if your motor is a 10 pole and you have it set to 14 it may make a difference. Count the number of magnets in the outer shell to see how many poles you have.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #28 on:** May 18, 2013, 02:49:20 PM »

Quote from: John Cralley on May 18, 2013, 07:45:10 AM

"Question : If I use a wrong number of poles can this be the cause of difference of RPM ?

Thank you and wait your answer."

Yes, if your motor is a 10 pole and you have it set to 14 it may make a difference. Count the number of magnets in the outer shell to see how many poles you have.

8200 vs. 7470 is less than a 10% difference. 14 pole vs. 10 poles would cause a 30% drop.

What happens when you set the Hubin timer to 9000 (10% over 8200)?

Edit: Don't let that stop you from counting the magnets and getting them right -- you want to get as much right as you can, everything will just go smoother that way.

John Hammonds · « **Reply #29 on:** May 18, 2013, 03:55:36 PM »

I did some more digging and still can't find the original reference I had seen regarding the Pole count of this motor but I just checked Motocalc http://www.ecalc.ch/motorcalc.htm and they have it listed as a 10 pole motor. (Attached image taken from Motocalc main screen).

TTFN
John.

Guilherme Souza · « **Reply #30 on:** May 19, 2013, 02:28:24 PM »

Dear All

Today I did my first electric flight

It was amazing !!!!

I did the ESC setup like John told me, just change to 12 poles motor
Everything was OK , More or less in the first flight I battery fell out , damage a little the battery , jI will check later (akneaded)

The second flight as OK looping and inverted flight

The plane is very very heavy , ready to flight 2,3 kg , (81 OZ) with battery and motor

The setup work great not heating , every thing OK ,
Now I can prepare a SV-11 plane

I M preparing a video as soon as possible I sent to you

Thank you for all help

Guil

Here is the video

MarcusCordeiro · « **Reply #31 on:** May 21, 2013, 06:47:29 AM »

Marcus