Electric Stunt > Gettin all AMP'ed up!
Electrified Ringmaster S-1
Dennis Toth:
Since I am working from home and not flying around the country I've had some additional time to do some building. I have a couple other projects going but decided that I could handle one more. I was given a fairly new built S-1 Ringmaster that was powered by a McCoy 35. The ship was well constructed but the original owner used Kevlar thread for leadouts. Although they look pretty good I am not comfortable with them and will change them to steel cable. To do this you more or less need to pull the wing to get clean access to the bellcrank and leadouts. While I'm at it I decided I would do an electric conversion.
To do the conversion I bought a Brodak electric conversion kit. This was designed/developed by Dennis Adaminsin. The parts are laser cut plywood with nicely detailed assembly/modifications instructions sheet. It was originally used on the Brodak version of the S-1 will work with a little creativity. The main change is that the notch/plywood brace in the leading edge is in a solid leading edge rather then the built up one in the Brodak ship. I am adding the notch as indicated in the kit but will only cut back into the leading edge to the point of leaving about 1/8" at the back then add the plywood doubler brace to the back side of the notch area across the center three ribs.
I started by taking the wing out, this was quite a task. The main thing was to use a heat gun and long knife and hacksaw blade to gradually cut through the glue and get the wing free. Damn, this took some effort but I got it out without any damage. Next, started to build the motor/battery conversion box/mount. This will be the template for the cut out of the fuse nose. This system has the battery sliding in and through the fuse from the inboard side. Next will be the fuse cut out to accept the mount/battery box. This cutout is quite large more or less the full width and a little bit more between the motor mounts. This should help reduce the nose weight a bit and help out the balance.
Ok, will let you know how it goes and try to post some pictures.
Best, DennisT
John Rist:
My S-1 Ring has the battery in the wing. Makes for a clean look but it took 2 oz of noise weight to balance. Battery needs to be as far forward as possible. I believe the Brodak kit does have a forward location for the battery. y1
John Rist:
My setup is as follows:
Motor, Cobra 2221/10 KV 1500
Battery, Hyperion 3S 1600 70C
ESC, Trunigy Plush 30 amp
Timer, KR. Initial RPMs set to 9500
Weight ready to launch is 27 oz.
Haven't flown it much yet but has plenty of power. So far have only run 4 minutes so i am not sure if battery is big enough for a 5 minute run. My plan was for old time stunt witch I believe can be achieved in 4 to 4.5 minutes.
Dennis Toth:
Hold on cowboy, I just saw a set up on the Brotherhood site that showed the battery under the outboard wing next to the fuse set so you can position it about 30% back into the wing. This allows trimming the CG with the battery rather than lead. It looks like he cut down about half way through the leading edge and adding a brace (I think, at least this is what I would do) along the LE and adding a plywood plate that the holds the battery with Velcro straps. I think I might look at this closer as it could work better with the S-1 original kit ship.
Best, DennisT
jerry v:
Dennis,
I built S1 Ringmaster with underwing mount. John Cralley advised me, thank you, John! I mount bellcrank on the inner wig , leaving all room for battery tray on the bottom of outer wing. CG was correct without lead.
Jerry
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