Electric Stunt > Gettin all AMP'ed up!
Electrified Ringmaster S-1
Dennis Toth:
Jerry,
I did see Johns photos and that was what made me rethink using the Brodak approach. It looks like the pocket goes into the leading edge about half way? Did you add any reinforcement to the leading edge after you cut the pocket?
You indicated the CG was good with the battery located back over part of the wing, is your model a full plank slab fuse or hollowed? How much of the battery do you have over the wing 66% (guess from the photo). Last what is the setup - motor, prop, rpm, esc, timer, battery pack, all up ready to flip the switch and fly weight?
Thanks for the info, DennisT
jerry v:
Dennis,
I think the best way to describe my Ringmaster will be all 200 pictures I took during build))
I may start writing essay about it later. I just joined this forum few days ago.
About wing - I glued piece of carbon arrow shaft (hollow tube diameter .228 or so inches) longer than two neighboring ribs space. It was glued in the corner of top and bottom leading edge against front solid part of leading edge. Then, pocket was finally cut to shape right over the carbon tube .Lite ply 1/8 thick lays over carbon tube, supported by balsa in the back to be parallel to fuse center line. Fuselage is solid 1/2 in balsa. Hollowed only in the nose, side plates are 1/64 plywood. Length of packet is front edge of plywood bellcrank Mount . Width is enough for 4 cell 2200 lipo plus Velcro strap. Wing was already built for glow power, so modifying it was little time consuming. I don’t remember all information, I will write it later. But it is 4 cell 2200 lipo, Brodak 1100 Kv Arrowwind motor, Brodak ESC, KR timer, 10x5 APC prop. Weight ready to fly is 30 oz .
Jerry
Dennis Toth:
I have made some good progress this week. I was able to remove the wing as I need to have full access to remove and replace the bellcrank and leadouts. The original builder used Kevlar cord for leadouts. This is very tough stuff but I like steel cable. Also the bellcrank has a very long arm to the pushrod hole and I feel it would be a challenge to get smooth control with it unless I used a 2" tall tail horn, not practical. Once out I took the weight - 13 1/2 oz. Pretty heavy, even for a Sterling kit wing. I started to open up the planking to get to the bellcrank and saw some of the reason for all the weight. There was plywood everywhere. For a little old Ringmaster you would have thought it was ready for the 200 lb. pull test. After looking at this I decided that I needed to do some serious weight reduction and would need to remove the covering entirely. This was a shame cause it had some great graphics but you can't reduce weight from the outside.
After all the covering was removed it is down to 9 1/2oz. Now I can put some lightening holes in all that plywood and even remove some. Next will be to add some lightening holes to the ribs. Last will be to work on the leading edge. On one other that I built I hollowed the LE between ribs. This is about the only way I can get some additional weight out. My goal here is to get 1 to 1 1/2 oz. out of the wing wood.
I did start the battery box cut out notch in the leading edge and will finish that shortly. I may set this up with the back dropped down into the wing deeper to help get the vertical CG of the pack up a little more so there isn't as much hanging below the wing centerline. I'll get some pic's soon.
Best, DennisT
jerry v:
Dennis,
More pictures describe better than words))
Jerry
jerry v:
Battery is 4 cell 2200 lipo
Jerry
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