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Electric Stunt => Gettin all AMP'ed up! => Topic started by: GonzoBonzo on July 28, 2012, 06:09:57 PM
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Hey Guys,
I'm building a Vector, and decided to go electric. Motor will be an Turnigy 3542-1000. Do I need to install the maple motor mounts, or will the the formers, and doublers be enough? Also, when I place the motor over the plans, it looks like the former I will have to install to mount the motor to will have to be an eighth inch to a quarter above the fuse sides. In other words into the top block. Anyone install this motor in a Vector? Any hints, or tips would be appreciated. Oh, one more thing, how thick should the motor mount former be?
TIA,
Gonzo
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Gonzo,
You can loose the Maple mounts.These motors are not trying to tear themselves(and the airplane)apart when they are running unlike the IC's try to do.Make sure to use the carbon veil between the sides/doublers.I make my mounting plates out of 1/4" aircraft grade ply.Might be overkill but I aint lost a motor yet!!You will have to go into the top block some and it may get thin.Then I cover the whole front of the fuse from mid wing forward with a layer of 3/4 oz. glass cloth and that gives the extra little strength without a ton of extra weight.Hope this Helps.
Jeff
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Gonzo:
Don't remember seeing your name here before, so WELCOME to the Electric forum.
First off, check out the "List your Set-ups" thread near the top of this forum. The Vector has been done quite a few times by quite a few folks, you should be able see some of their set-up ideas there.
BTW I completely endorse your motor selection. I have one that has served me very well
Keep the plywood doublers, but there is no need for the motor mounts - unless you figure a way to use them for mounting the battery.
Are you going to front mount or rear mount the motor? If front mounted check out the vendors section. Robins View (Bob Hunt) is selling some absolutely bullet proof "hardnose" mounting plactes made of G-10 board. If rear mounting then check out the thread below. I mounted the motor in a Strega with the mounting plate poking through the top block then trimmed & sanded flush to the block. This lets the block "capture" the mounting plate.
http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=23535.0
Finally & most important, if in doubt post something here and the crew will help you through whatever issue you are facing. 010!
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Thanks for the reply guys. No maple motor mounts, check!
Dennis, I'm a retread with no electric experience. I did check the setup page, and basically ripped of Warren Leadbetter's setup. Lots of usefull info on gear, but not much on installation. I was thinking of a rear mount installation. Would front be better? Speaking of which. the motors shaft is sticking out almost an inch on the back. Do people cut this off when not using that type of installation?
I'm sure I'll have plenty of questions the farther I sink into this project.
TA,
Gonzo
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Gonzo,
I have built two Brodak Vectors for electric. You will enjoy the airplane. As suggested by others, you should leave the maple mounts out to save both weight and space inside the rather tight fuse. I made new 3/32 formers for the nose sans the cutouts for the hardwood mounts. Both mine use the Aerowind 2820/07 rear mounted. I have had no trouble and have well over 100 flights on one of them. I use both Hyperion 2500mah and Turnigy nanotechnology 2200 may batteries. I am using 1550-1600 mah per 5:30 flight on an APC 11/5.5 re-pitched to 6.5 @ 9200 rpm.
The stock gear setup produces too little ground clearance for an 11" prop, so I built the gear mount up so that it is flush with the fuse bottom. It is still a bit low if you fly off grass, but works for me. I will take some pictures of my setup later today and post them here.
Bob
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Thanks for the reply guys. Speaking of which, the motor's shaft is sticking out almost an inch on the back. Do people cut this off when not using that type of installation? Gonzo
Gonzo, Welcome to clean, quiet, efficient, predictable and cost competitive electric flight!!!
Regarding the extended shaft, I personally cut them off but I know others just make a "relief" hole and space to let the shaft remain. One problem with cutting them off is that you risk getting bits of shaft cuttings attracted to the magnets inside the motor. One approach is to remove the shaft or at least the shell with the magnets before cutting the shaft. Since I am lazy and since removing the shaft or disassembling the motor is not always easy, I pierce a piece of heavy duty aluminum foil with the shaft and slide it all the way over the shaft until it is against the rear of the motor. I also wrap the entire motor in aluminum foil to seal out any metal particles that might fly about when cutting the shaft. Then I use my Dremel tool with a cutoff disk to cut off the shaft. I then vacuum the foil bundled motor to catch any stray particles. I have had no problems with the lazy approach but I am sure that disassembly of the motor and removing the shaft before cutting is probably the preferred method. Keep in mind that some motors have a "press fitted" shaft and removing the shaft may NOT be a good idea it that case. I do not remember if Turnigy motors are "press fit" or if they use set screws to hold the shaft to the front of the "can". There are some good YouTube tutorials on replacing bearings in outrunner motors that will guide you if you decide to disassemble your motor. Here is one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3RJQfbzXNjQ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3RJQfbzXNjQ)
Keep us posted as to your progress with this project.
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I use both Hyperion 2500mah and Turnigy nanotechnology 2200 may batteries. I am using 1550-1600 mah per 5:30 flight on an APC 11/5.5 re-pitched to 6.5 @ 9200 rpm.
Thanks Bob. I bought 4 Zippy 2650's, they should be enough then. I also bought some of the same props. Hopefully I wont have to repitch them. I don't know how our motors compare, I'll probably have to run mine at a slightly higher RPM. Is anyone making a pusher in the 10-11" range? I know of the APC 12-6, but way too big for this plane.
The stock gear setup produces too little ground clearance for an 11" prop, so I built the gear mount up so that it is flush with the fuse bottom. It is still a bit low if you fly off grass, but works for me. I will take some pictures of my setup later today and post them here.
Bob
We have paved circles here, but I'll probably still shim up the gear. I'd appreciate the pix. They sure would help.
Gonzo, Welcome to clean, quiet, efficient, predictable and cost competitive electric flight!!!
I pierce a piece of heavy duty aluminum foil with the shaft and slide it all the way over the shaft until it is against the rear of the motor. I also wrap the entire motor in aluminum foil to seal out any metal particles that might fly about when cutting the shaft. Then I use my Dremel tool with a cutoff disk to cut off the shaft. I then vacuum the foil bundled motor to catch any stray particles.
Great tip John, thanks
Keep us posted as to your progress with this project.
I sure will. TA
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Gonzo,
I guess I should clarify regarding the prop. It is repitched to 6.4 at station 10 on a Prather pitch gauge. Functionally, I think it is really about a 6 pitch. I have some APC 11/8ep props, but I want to repitch them a bit lower before flying them and just haven't gotten around to it. Many of the fellows on the forum shorten 12/6ep apc props to 11" for use on 40 size planes. I haven't tried that either.
I am going to try to attach pictures of my setup showing battery placement and access and the motor compartment. The battery is accessed through a hatch in the side of the fuse. The hatch is held on by a tab at the front and a magnet (from the brush head of a Sonicare tooth brush) at the rear. The esc and timer are in a compartment below the battery. The esc is mounted so the heat sink is just a bit proud of the fuselage bottom (almost flush). You can see the cooling holes into the esc compartment and the battery cage. The exit air for the batter is through the fuse to the open cockpit. (I like open cockpits...put them on most of my planes.) Everything runs cool on this plane (no more than 20 degrees above ambient temperature). You can also see the landing gear mount. The original has the gear recessed into the fuselage bottom. Mine sits flush with the top.
Hope you find this helpful.
Bob
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Thanks Robert. Lots of great ideas. What do you use to start the motor? I don't see a button, or arming plug.
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Gonzo,
I use a Hubin 2 timer, which has a board mounted microswitch. If you look at the picture of the bottom of the plane, you can see something black sticking out near the front of the esc/timer compartment. That is a "pushrod" used to actuate the switch to start the timer. The holes allow access to the pots for adjusting the rpm and flight time.
Bob
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Ahh....Ok, thanks.
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Hi-I'm about to start on my Vector 40 and really thinking of going electric and I'm glad I found this thread!
-Scott Bauman AMA 697183
www.irks.org