Author Topic: Electric Tech (Read 1298 times)

Stephen · « **on:** July 23, 2020, 07:12:32 AM »

I'm interested in future Legacy build of possibly using electric power over nitro. Where do you source the electric motors, ESC and lipos etc. from? I race RC buggies and have really enjoyed the tuning capability of the ESC.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #1 on:** July 23, 2020, 08:17:21 AM »

This question is probably best if moved to either the General section or the Electric section.

I use Cobra motors, Igor's Active Timer, Spin 44 ESC, and China Hobby Line batteries.

A good start would be Cobras motors, Castle ESC, and Hubin or KR Timers.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #2 on:** July 23, 2020, 03:08:27 PM »

Stephan, welcome!

You want to hop over to the "Gettin' all Amp'd Up" forum, and look through the List Your Set-up thread.

There's several Legacies listed in there -- just pick one.

I'd suggest that you start with a Hubin or KR timer for starters (it's essentially what I'm doing).

This may help: https://brodak.com/pub/media/pdf/Brodak%20Power%20Systems%20-2017.pdf

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #3 on:** July 23, 2020, 11:29:28 PM »

Quote from: Crist Rigotti on July 23, 2020, 08:17:21 AM

A good start would be Cobras motors, Castle ESC, and Hubin or KR Timers.

Welcome to the dark side. Let me double down on what Crist said. The setup is simple and the results are 90% of what you will get with what Crist is running now. Judging by what I have seen others go through when they went to the Igor system, you don't want to start there, but you do want to end there. I am three years into electric and I still run the Castle/Huben and I don't plan to "upgrade" for a couple of years.

Ken

Igor Burger · « **Reply #4 on:** July 24, 2020, 01:44:44 AM »

Quote from: Ken Culbertson on July 23, 2020, 11:29:28 PM

I have seen others go through when they went to the Igor system, you don't want to start there, but you do want to end there.

Tell me more about that, few times I saw comments like that, but never mentioned exact problem, may be there is what to improve. We have also kids using them (but may be that is the problem, it is easier for newcomers than people years flying IC).

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #5 on:** July 24, 2020, 06:39:34 AM »

Quote from: Igor Burger on July 24, 2020, 01:44:44 AM

Tell me more about that, few times I saw comments like that, but never mentioned exact problem, may be there is what to improve. We have also kids using them (but may be that is the problem, it is easier for newcomers than people years flying IC).

Since I have not made the switch yet I can only relate what I have observed. A lot of time to get the settings right for a particular plane. This can be difficult if you have no electric experience. Copying the settings others have used is a good start but that gets you the settings for someone else plane, not yours. The systems are also expensive and you are going to do stupid things while learning how to deal with electric power.

Now the good part - once you have learned the ropes of electric and how to adapt it to your plane it is clearly superior. My next PA build will have your system in it. I also agree with your observation that it is much easier to start with electric than it is to adapt to it.

Ken

Igor Burger · « **Reply #6 on:** July 24, 2020, 06:50:58 AM »

Quote from: Ken Culbertson on July 24, 2020, 06:39:34 AM

Since I have not made the switch yet I can only relate what I have observed. A lot of time to get the settings right for a particular plane. This can be difficult if you have no electric experience. Copying the settings others have used is a good start but that gets you the settings for someone else plane, not yours. The systems are also expensive and you are going to do stupid things while learning how to deal with electric power.

That is true and that is also reason why I recommend (and that is how I send it preprogrammed) to switch off 4-2-4 regulation. Model should be trimmed and adjusted with constant RPM - means it works exactly like with Hubin timer and Castle or KR timer and normal esc. Then if all works well, slow allowing 4-2-4 will only improve all things.

Of course all can be "overdone" so too strong regulation or start with allowed 4-2-4 can make problems, but it is not recommended way.

May be I can add feature which will not allow 4-2-4 earlier than after 20 flights

Stephen · « **Reply #7 on:** July 24, 2020, 12:34:11 PM »

Thanks guys and let reading begin !

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #8 on:** July 24, 2020, 02:46:11 PM »

Quote from: Stephen on July 24, 2020, 12:34:11 PM

Thanks guys and let reading begin !

You mentioned Legacy in your original post. Keep in mind that most Legacy ships have a nose section that is narrow compared to what you need for electric. I doubt that anybody would complain if you widened the nose a bit on whatever you build.

Ken

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #9 on:** July 24, 2020, 03:13:43 PM »

Quote from: Ken Culbertson on July 24, 2020, 02:46:11 PM

You mentioned Legacy in your original post. Keep in mind that most Legacy ships have a nose section that is narrow compared to what you need for electric.

But a lot wider than the 1988 "Atlantis". I can hear echoes when I shout down into the nose of my Legacy project.

Quote from: Ken Culbertson on July 24, 2020, 02:46:11 PM

I doubt that anybody would complain if you widened the nose a bit on whatever you build.

Ken

+1 Thats why the Northwest CL super-Expert contingent are doing wide-body airplanes like P47's, Rare Bears, and Paul Walker's new ~~Anteater~~ Electric Impact.

Howard Rush · « **Reply #10 on:** July 25, 2020, 12:17:07 AM »

Quote from: Tim Wescott on July 24, 2020, 03:13:43 PM

... Paul Walker's new ~~Anteater~~ Electric Impact.

the Dream On Elm Street

Perry Rose · « **Reply #11 on:** July 28, 2020, 05:27:38 AM »

If your building a Legacy kit from Brodak just look at the ad on their web site and all you need is listed below. I have two kit built Legacy's and both have the recommended power system with HRB 4s 3300 batteries. I found the nose to be just the right size. I also used the conversion kit for the motor designed by Dennis Adamisin for the Legacy. In his instructions he has you cutting a half inch off the planes fuselage bottom as the room isn't needed for the pipe tunnel. I built the first one for an engine and converted it to electric using Brodak's Universal D conversion kit and the second one with the Legacy conversion kit. The stock size nose will also fit a 5s 3300 battery.

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #12 on:** July 28, 2020, 06:50:49 AM »

Quote from: Tim Wescott on July 24, 2020, 03:13:43 PM

But a lot wider than the 1988 "Atlantis". I can hear echoes when I shout down into the nose of my Legacy project.

+1 Thats why the Northwest CL super-Expert contingent are doing wide-body airplanes like P47's, Rare Bears, and Paul Walker's new ~~Anteater~~ Electric Impact.

I should have noticed the "Caps" on Legacy. I was thinking basic legacy designs in general.

Good Luck - Ken

TDM · « **Reply #13 on:** July 29, 2020, 06:45:26 AM »

Stephen since you decided to build a electric Legacy plan not to build the fuselage as per plans. Build the model for electric setup.
You only need 1/64 ply doubles which should allow for more inside width of the fuselage, this also means the nose formers should get a little wider. There is no need for a engine crutch either. What you need in the nose is a nice, preferably front mounted motor mount, tied in to the nose of the fuselage. Keep in mind that you need air flow over the electric components. If you have 1.75in width wall to wall inside the fuselage you should have enough width to put just about any motor in the nose of the model.
I run the Igor active with a JOKER 4250 motor and 12X6 XOAR prop with great success. With the 6S system I currently use it runs great with almost no heat energy loss so this should work just as good on a 4S too.
This one will probably wok well on 4S https://www.lindinger.at/en/airplanes/electric-powerplants/motors/planet-hobby-joker-4250-5-v3-820-kv-brushless-motor
Good luck.

Author Topic: Electric Tech (Read 1298 times)

Stephen

Electric Tech

Crist Rigotti

Re: Electric Tech

Tim Wescott

Re: Electric Tech

Ken Culbertson

Re: Electric Tech

Igor Burger

Re: Electric Tech

Ken Culbertson

Re: Electric Tech

Igor Burger

Re: Electric Tech

Stephen

Re: Electric Tech

Ken Culbertson

Re: Electric Tech

Tim Wescott

Re: Electric Tech

Howard Rush

Re: Electric Tech

Perry Rose

Re: Electric Tech

Ken Culbertson

Re: Electric Tech

TDM

Re: Electric Tech