Author Topic: Electric SV-11 (Read 12018 times)

William DeMauro · « **on:** November 09, 2008, 07:51:55 PM »

I want to get started on my electric SV-11 and have my motor choice narrowed down to 2 motors. My finished weight goal is under 60oz with battery. I feel its very acheavable for me. One choice is the Atlas 2927-08 http://www.hobby-lobby.com/atlas2927.htm. The other is the Scorpion 3026-10 http://www.innov8tivedesigns.com/product_info.php?cPath=21_25_38&products_id=79. I plan on using a Pheonex 45, battery will be a 4 cell 4000mah or similar, and a Will Hubin timer. Prop to be determined but will start with an APC 12x6 electric. Do you think I will be better off with one motor over the other? If so, which one? I have been flying an electrified ARF Cardinal and P40 for the last year with great success and now want to move onto a real serious built up electric stunter. Thanks for your comments.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #1 on:** November 09, 2008, 07:56:51 PM »

Keep us posted on your project! I like Scorpion motors.

Alan Hahn · « **Reply #2 on:** November 09, 2008, 08:13:11 PM »

I also use Scorpion motors.

Nothing against Atlas---I haven't used one. I guess Hobby Lobby will back them up in case of trouble.

As long as the kV is ok and the physical size is in the range you are looking is there, I doubt that you can go too wrong. We really aren't stressing these motors at all in PA.

You might consider the Scorpion 3020-12, it's kV is 840 rpm/V, which might be a better match to your 4s pack.

William DeMauro · « **Reply #3 on:** November 09, 2008, 09:25:28 PM »

Alan, I think you mean the 3026-12 as the one that has the 840KV rating. I also considered that but wasn't sure that if that motor's KV rating was too low for my 4s batteries. I do think either would work, but will wait to see what others post. I have the Scorpion 3020-14 on ARF P40 and am extremly pleased with it. Power is abundant and it runs cool. I want to fly the SV 11 competitivly next year and this is my first attempt at a number one all electric stunter. I am a slow and overly deliberate builder and want to get this right the first time. I've done my experimenting and have over 80 succesful e-flights and really want to do this.

Mike Palko · « **Reply #4 on:** November 09, 2008, 09:59:32 PM »

Hi William,
I think if you went with the 3026-10 you would get the best results with a 5 or 6 pitch, while the 3026-12 would best suited with a 6 or 7 pitch. I think in the end the pros and cons are negligible, so it would be personal preference. Compare the Kv to the popular AXI 2826/10 which is 920. The Scorpion motors split the difference, hence my suggestions. Keep us posted!

Mike

Alan Hahn · « **Reply #5 on:** November 10, 2008, 06:20:09 AM »

Quote from: William DeMauro on November 09, 2008, 09:25:28 PM

Alan, I think you mean the 3026-12 as the one that has the 840KV rating. I also considered that but wasn't sure that if that motor's KV rating was too low for my 4s batteries. I do think either would work, but will wait to see what others post. I have the Scorpion 3020-14 on ARF P40 and am extremly pleased with it. Power is abundant and it runs cool. I want to fly the SV 11 competitivly next year and this is my first attempt at a number one all electric stunter. I am a slow and overly deliberate builder and want to get this right the first time. I've done my experimenting and have over 80 succesful e-flights and really want to do this.

You are right, I meant the 3026-12.

The reason I mention it (and the lower kV) is that you may want to try a larger prop than the 12-6, which will increase thrust and therefore need fewer rpm in flight. It does seem amazing that I am using the APC 12-6 prop on my Nobler, and others using it on significantly larger planes. So I was thinking why not a 13" prop? I am waiting for the day APC releases 3 blade versions of these props. One of the strengths of the electric motors are their flexibility of running many different types of prop loads. This enables us to find props that work more efficiently at lower rpms. Anyway that's my story and I'm sticking to it!

walterbro · « **Reply #6 on:** November 10, 2008, 09:04:30 AM »

William

I agree with Mike & Alan. I just ran some numbers on MOTOCALC and either motor is acceptable, But with the size model you are going to fly you will want to try a prop
that is slightly larger in Dia than the 12x6 several F2B flyers have said that the CAM
12.5 x 6 is better for the size plane you are building. If you want to have the capability to try this prop or even a 13"dia you will be happier with the 3026-12 and
kv of 840. Your battery choice is a very important decision as you will be pushing the upper limit of a 4S 4200 mah. Remember that you should limit your mah actually used
during your flights to 70% +/- of battery rating.( unless you want to use more power
and get less battery life) This is not a hard and fast rule but is "a rule or thumb".

Good luck and keep us posted.
Walt

Dennis Toth · « **Reply #7 on:** November 10, 2008, 12:18:25 PM »

William,

The SV 11 has 670 sq in wing area, a strong 46 would pull this so the 3026-10 or 12 is right there on a 12x6 APCE prop. I have been flying a 600 sq in profile, 58oz with an AXI 2826-10 and a 4s1p 3850 mah pack (all-battery.com) on a 12x5.6 APCE (repitched 12x6), 9000rpm, 65ft lines, 5.0 lap time and been very happy with the performance. With this set-up and a CC45 set for fixed RPM mode I have the flight time set for 5min 40sec and pull on average 2650mah out. I have tried cutting down an APCE 13x6.5 to 12" and repitching to 5.2 to get the same lap time but in calm conditions there was no gain only it pull about 3100mahs. The APCE 12x6 prop is amazing in its pulling power. I have tried several other sizes and brands but I keep coming back to the APCE 12x6.

The main thing you will need to deal with is the weight. I think if you can keep it under 60 oz it will it will perform well on about 63.5' lines C to C (65' including your arm length). The heaviest thing in the plane is the battery pack, the lightest pack is the Thunder Power 10-12C Pro Lite at around 12.5oz (about $189 each) I looked for alternatives and the closest I could come was the 3850mah, 10C 4S1P pack from all-battery.com at $111 each and 13.5oz (they have a typo in the listing @ 302g or 10.6oz it is 13.5oz they did confirmed the typo). With this pack and an AXI 2826/10, CC45 ESC, Ztron 3 timer you have a power package (including prop and spinner about 2.5 oz) that weights in at about 21oz leaving you 39oz to play with.

One thing you will need to be carefull about is getting the battery load positioned to get the desired CG of the plane. On my ship I was supprised how much farther back I had to move the pack to avoid adding tail weight for balance. I found that the CG of the battery (center length wise) needs to be close to the CG of the plane (about 1/2" forward of plane CG and allow for at least 3/4" for/aft movement).

Good luck with the project, Dennis

William DeMauro · « **Reply #8 on:** November 10, 2008, 06:25:39 PM »

Dennis,
Your numbers are almost exactly what I am coming up with on my own. I feel the weight is doable cause 4 years ago when I built my last SV-11, I came in at 33 oz in bare wood. This included gear, wheels and wheelpants. I then powered it with a strong ST51 and Adimisin tube muffler. With paint tank and everything else in it but fuel I was at 61 oz. Now I still have way more than enough great wood and, if I loose the mounts and crutch setup, use an iron on covering(solite if nessasary) instead of paint and a plastic spinner, I think I can get my desired weight. My Cardinal flys on 61' eyelet to eyelet and weighs in at 53 oz with the atlas 2921-08. I use about 2300 out of my 4000 4s TrueRC lipo in a 5min 40sec flight at 8900 RPM,12x6 APC e cut to 11 1/2. My P40 with the Scorpion 3020-14 with same lines and prop,but uncut and weighing in at 50oz also uses about the same mah. Since these are arf conversions I know I can do alot better on my own build,from the ground up with electric in mind.
I completly agree with Walt on the no more than 70% out of the lipo and yes I probably will be at the upper limits of a 4000mah 4s. I have about 500 mah to play with now on my current setups and know that this plane will use more. With the props I am open to sugestions and figure the 12x6 was a good starting point .
I will put up a picture of my Cardinal so you guys can see my setup and one picture of the SV 11 I wish I still had. Thanks and I will sleep on my motor choce for another day.

Leester · « **Reply #9 on:** January 25, 2009, 06:35:46 AM »

Any updates

Alan Hahn · « **Reply #10 on:** January 25, 2009, 02:30:19 PM »

Quote from: Leester on January 25, 2009, 06:35:46 AM

Any updates

I suppose it depends on whether he lives in the North or South. I haven't even seen my (brown) grass for about a month! Just white stuff. Highly unusual for this area to have the snow stick around so long!

Leester · « **Reply #11 on:** January 25, 2009, 03:36:57 PM »

He must have gotten lost or something since he hasn't posted since 11/10/08

Alan Hahn · « **Reply #12 on:** January 25, 2009, 04:12:15 PM »

Quote from: Leester on January 25, 2009, 03:36:57 PM

He must have gotten lost or something since he hasn't posted since 11/10/08

You might be right, but most of us haven't posted since then due to the great Server Crash!

I knew Sparky bragging about being the biggest was going to lead to something bad!

Leester · « **Reply #13 on:** January 25, 2009, 05:07:26 PM »

Ya your right about the posting not showing.

William DeMauro · « **Reply #14 on:** January 25, 2009, 08:23:33 PM »

Hi All,
Sorry for not posting,trying to spend as much time as I can building, Plane was mostly built but not assembled as of Friday the 23 of jan. I was going to do final assembly yesterday and for some reason I couldnt get the alignment right So I started re-measuring everything and found a very slight twist in my fuse. That is completly unacceptable to me and rather than trying to straighten it, which would require trying to get the bottom block off it,rejigging the whole thing then probably having to make new top and bottom blocks, I decided to make a whole new fuse. Besides now I get to incorperate a few minor details that would have went into a second plane before the first is even finished. I may be able to lighten it a bit more too as I feel it was a bit overbuilt. I had a projected finished weight of no less than 59 oz with battery and no more than 61. If I can lose 1-2 more ounces with the new fuse I will feel even better. I would rather delay this 2-3 weeks and get it right than forever regret putting together a plane that was "not quite right". Besides I usually hold the title as "Worlds Slowest Builder" so this is kind of a record for me. Its also winter here in NYC so I really cant fly much anyway. If I get this done by the end of Feburary I still can get the whole season out of it. I will post 2 pictures I took while trying to fit this thing together but keep in mind this is the "Reject Fuse". I started the new one today. Lets see if I can knock it out in a week!
By the way there are posts missing,probably lost in the crash, cause I know I posted until almost the end of November and I would guess that there are at least 15+ posts from just this thread missing.I belive it was about 27 posts long. I also had trouble with the pictures,something I never have trouble with. I had to Post,edit and add a pic,then edit again and add another. I guess things are still a bit buggy here but I am sure they will be straightened out.

Leester · « **Reply #15 on:** January 26, 2009, 03:06:55 AM »

Lookin good William, keep us posted on the rebuild of the fuse.

Dennis Adamisin · « **Reply #16 on:** January 26, 2009, 10:19:31 AM »

William
Too bad about the fuselage, light is good, but STRAIGHT is better. Of course, straight and light is best of all!

William DeMauro · « **Reply #17 on:** January 26, 2009, 05:54:20 PM »

Quote from: Dennis Adamisin on January 26, 2009, 10:19:31 AM

William
Too bad about the fuselage, light is good, but STRAIGHT is better. Of course, straight and light is best of all!

Dennis,
Better I catch it now than later!!!! I still have plenty of time before Spring. I think I can do a second one even lighter as I found a few blocks I had that were stashed away in a different wood box that I had. These are even lighter than the ones I used on the "reject fuse". The new fuse sides are cut and marked,doublers are cut and attached,Firewall is cut and drilled,all the formers are cut,and Its sitting in the jig just about ready to be glued. I am going to try to salvage the cowl from the reject and the canopy(already a salvage from the one in the photo above as are the LG and wheel pants). I will NOT accept anything less than straight and light!!!! I am very happy with the rest of the plane, its straight and light. This is also my opportunity to insure that this plane comes in under 60oz and I am going to take full advantage of it!!

William DeMauro · « **Reply #18 on:** January 27, 2009, 09:04:13 PM »

Quick update.
New fuse is coming out good,formers are in,firewall is in, bottom block tacked and rough shaped,landing gear mount made but not installed, nose ring cut and almost ready to install,some parts for cowling are cut. I will be busy the next few days with a few other things may not get much done but will try to do some. I will try post if i get anything significant done. Take care all.

William DeMauro · « **Reply #19 on:** February 02, 2009, 05:31:59 PM »

Update:
New fuse is coming out well. Bottom block is completely shaped hollowed and attached,main and tailgears are installed,cowl is done and attached(needs a little internal hollowing). I want to give the top block another round of sanding and get the canopy attached(I managed to salvage it ,yet again). Best of all,it's straight and already over an ounce lighter than the reject one and I haven't even hollowed out the top block yet.

Dennis Adamisin · « **Reply #20 on:** February 02, 2009, 06:33:06 PM »

STRAIGHT & light(er) Now THAT is time well spent.

William DeMauro · « **Reply #21 on:** February 06, 2009, 05:10:15 PM »

Got the top block hollowed, canopy attached and did a rough fitting together of the plane. All looks good as the plane practical fell together straight!!! I didn't take any measurements but by eye it looked right on. I will fit it with the pushrods attached tomorrow and if all looks good I will measure everything and get it assembled and ready for covering.

Dennis Toth · « **Reply #22 on:** February 10, 2009, 07:39:32 AM »

William,

I am looking at my chooses for my PA ship for this year and been following your thread. I have a ship that is similar in size to your SV11 and am looking at motor options. So far I have used the AXI 2826-10 in a 600sq profile (59oz) and it is great. The new ship is 675sq and should weigh in around 58oz (better wood). I think the 2826 might be at its limit for this and I am looking at the RimFire 42-40-920, as a possibility. It weighs 4.4oz and the larger 40mm diameter can seems like it should have more grunt then the 26mm on the AXI. I don't have a motor calc program for stunt applications and don't seem to understand what they tells us from the R/C information they give. If this would work on say a 12 3/4"x5 APCE prop (cut down and repitched 13x6.5) with the 4s1p 3850mah packs it would be perfect as I wouldn't need new 18.5V 5S1P packs. What do you think?

Best, Dennis

Alan Hahn · « **Reply #23 on:** February 10, 2009, 07:57:55 AM »

Dennis,
I am not familiar with the RimFire, but just as a question, are you sure it is physically bigger than the AXI 2826. In the case of the AXI, the 28 refers to the diameter of the stator (28mm), not the outside can. Some manufacturer's give the outer dimension of the can, and I am not sure what the RimFire does. The reason I ask is that I am amazed that the RimFire is so light. I am not sure what the AXI 2826 weight is, but the Scorpion 3026 (more or less same class as AXI 2826) weighs in at 6.7oz. The 3026 outside can diameter is ~38mm

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #24 on:** February 10, 2009, 08:27:46 AM »

RC Groups has some threads on Rim Fire motors. I'd check there before I'd commit to using one.

Dennis Toth · « **Reply #25 on:** February 10, 2009, 10:17:48 AM »

Alan,

The Rimfire web site shows a dwg and the 42 is the outside can diameter it also shows it to be 37mm Length not including the shaft which is another 17.5mm in length. The kV has changed since it was publish in Tower's catalog it is now either an 800 or 1000. Both show the capability to use 4S packs. From the tech notes on the RimFire web page (http://www.electrifly.com/motors/motors-rimfire-42-40.html) it seem that either will turn a 12x6 but the 800 may be the motor better fit for us as the current draw on an 11x7 at 9060rpm is around 34amps. This also looks very close to what I have seen on the AXI 2826-10 but it is 2oz lighter. I wonder what accounts for the lighter weight?

Best, Dennis

Archie Adamisin · « **Reply #26 on:** February 10, 2009, 11:03:18 AM »

Dennis,

I have a 42-40 Turnigy and it has a little more power than a 35-36-1200, but not much. I bought it to see if it would be the same as a 35-42 I bought and it most certainly wasn't. It will run with a 12 x 6, but it labors. You will have to use shorter lines and I don't know how the SV-11 will like that. They look really happy on full 70's.

The 35 series motors are equivalent to the Axi 28 series motors. For example, a 35-48 is a 28-26 Axi. My 35-42 would be a 28-20, 35-36 would be a 28-14, and so on. Please see the attached photo of the motors. The one on the left is the 42-40-1050. The Rim-Fire 42-40-1000 would be basically the same animal. The other motors from right to left are: Rim-Fire 35-30-1250Kv (450 watts), Rim-Fire 35-36-1200Kv(650 watts), Turnigy 35-36-1100Kv(650 watts), Turnigy 35-42-1100Kv(850 watts), & the Turnigy 42-40-1050Kv(750 watts).

Based on testing, I don't feel that the 42-40 is enough horse to fly an SV-11. It would be a nice motor to fly no more than 630 squares @ 54 ounces. I would say the 42-50 would be a better choice or even a 42-60. Kv would depend on what prop you want to run. Have you considered using a 13 x 6.5? The 42-50 would benefit from that on either 4S or even 5S. Batteries are really not a problem as much as motor selection is. Have you checked out the new Turnigy SK series Aerodrive XP? I bought one of the 35-42-1100's and it is a brute with a 12 x 6. They also have a new Red & Blue series that have (3) bearings on motors larger than 28mm. The Kv's might be too low for 4S though. Price is really affordable.

Archie Adamisin
Muncie, Indiana

Alan Hahn · « **Reply #27 on:** February 10, 2009, 11:22:58 AM »

Quote from: stuntguy13 on February 10, 2009, 10:17:48 AM

Alan,

The Rimfire web site shows a dwg and the 42 is the outside can diameter it also shows it to be 37mm Length not including the shaft which is another 17.5mm in length. The kV has changed since it was publish in Tower's catalog it is now either an 800 or 1000. Both show the capability to use 4S packs. From the tech notes on the RimFire web page (http://www.electrifly.com/motors/motors-rimfire-42-40.html) it seem that either will turn a 12x6 but the 800 may be the motor better fit for us as the current draw on an 11x7 at 9060rpm is around 34amps. This also looks very close to what I have seen on the AXI 2826-10 but it is 2oz lighter. I wonder what accounts for the lighter weight?

Best, Dennis

I see now. The "40" is the total length, while the 26 in the AXI is the stator and also the permanent magnet length. When I look at the drawing http://www.electrifly.com/motors/motors-rimfire-42-40.html, I measure the magnet and stator length to be in the 12mm range (it is the flat region on the side view)! Fully double the length is taken up by non-functional parts! I include the grabbed drawing from that link.

So my guess is this is more on the scale of the AXI 2812 (or is it 2814). More in the weight ballpark too. These motors are basically iron, copper, magnets,( the guts) and some aluminum. You can't lose that much weight and keep the same "guts"

William DeMauro · « **Reply #28 on:** February 11, 2009, 06:33:29 AM »

Hi Dennis,
I too am not familiar with the rimfire motors and appreciate the fact that others stepped in to answer this.Thanks! I am trying to do this by seeing what worked for others and a combination of what worked for me in my own experiments on my E Cardinal and P40. I will be using the Scorpion 3026-10 on my SV 11. I should weigh in at no more than 58-59 oz. This is allowing 14 oz for batteries. I am in the final assembly portion of the build now and hope to fly it sometime in March if all goes well. I hope that I am right with my selections as I want to fly this on a 4S. The good part is that if I have to go to a 5S or different motor I have enough headroom weight wise to do it. As soon as I get it completely assembled i will get a few pictures up here.

William DeMauro · « **Reply #29 on:** March 10, 2009, 06:35:29 PM »

I am finally almost done!!!! I have to permanently attach the flaps and elevators and balance it. My final weight,with battery should be between 59 and 61 oz. My large scale isn't accurate but I have a new one coming and will give an accurate reading as soon as I can. I hope to be able to fly it this weekend and will give flight reports as soon as possible. Lets hope the weather cooperates. Enjoy the pictures! I want to thank Ron Heckler for the time he spent helping me with the finish on this plane.

William DeMauro · « **Reply #30 on:** March 10, 2009, 06:58:29 PM »

Seems like I can only get 2 pictures per post so here are 2 more

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #31 on:** March 10, 2009, 07:43:58 PM »

Looks real nice. Keep us posted as to how it goes.

Alan Hahn · « **Reply #32 on:** March 11, 2009, 08:03:07 AM »

Quote from: William DeMauro on March 10, 2009, 06:58:29 PM

Seems like I can only get 2 pictures per post so here are 2 more

There is a 1Mbyte limit on the size for all attachments per post---and no more than 20 attachments (if the total is under 1Mbyte).--look at the fine print under the "Choose File" button.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #33 on:** March 11, 2009, 08:09:19 AM »

William,
How about some pics of your installation inside the cowl. I like to see how others are doing their installations. Where is the push button for the timer? Do you have a disconnect plug?

Dennis Adamisin · « **Reply #34 on:** March 11, 2009, 09:44:37 AM »

William
VERY nice and a nice competitive weight too. WAY TO GO!

Matt Colan · « **Reply #35 on:** March 11, 2009, 11:57:35 AM »

William that looks great!!!!!!!

Hope that flies as good as it looks

William DeMauro · « **Reply #36 on:** March 11, 2009, 05:54:40 PM »

OK, I have those inside the cowl and engine compartment photos. For the timer I am using a customised Will Hubin timer with adjustable warning.(described in an above post). The start button is a micro momentary contact switch that I set up myself and glued in place on the fuse. It's attached permanently but the timer is removable because the remote switch is plugged in with a micro deans.
I have a question to everyone out here. I was going to cut either the positive or negative wire of the speed control and solder either a 3mm or 4mm bullet connector to both wires and route it out then back into the fuse to act as a safety power disconnect. I figured it would look like a piece of fuel line running in and out of the fuse. I am having second thoughts on that now as I am one to believe that you should keep your possible points of failure to a minimum and having that could be a potential problem. What do you guys think?

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #37 on:** March 11, 2009, 08:17:42 PM »

Thanks William.

Alan Hahn · « **Reply #38 on:** March 12, 2009, 08:09:34 AM »

Quote from: William DeMauro on March 11, 2009, 05:54:40 PM

<snip>....
I have a question to everyone out here. I was going to cut either the positive or negative wire of the speed control and solder either a 3mm or 4mm bullet connector to both wires and route it out then back into the fuse to act as a safety power disconnect. I figured it would look like a piece of fuel line running in and out of the fuse. I am having second thoughts on that now as I am one to believe that you should keep your possible points of failure to a minimum and having that could be a potential problem. What do you guys think?

I think it is a great idea to have such a disconnect. The single wire/bullet connector idea sounds pretty good. I used a Dean's Connector for my "plug" (there is a post somewhere in this forum with a picture), but I think your idea might look cleaner overall.

I think the main reason for the arming is that you put the battery in sometime before a flight, usually in the pits area. Without an arming method, you now have a "loaded gun" setup. I always worried that somehow the pushbutton starting switch might accidentally get pushed--especially while the plane is carried out to the circle. Since most of us are conditioned to glow engines, we tend not to think that the engine may spontaneously start without flipping the prop at least. That means we wouldn't be ready to have the electric motor come alive as we walked out to the circle!

So unless you have a profile--where you can plug in the battery just before signaling the judges, I think an arming plug system really is a needed safety device on our planes.

walterbro · « **Reply #39 on:** March 12, 2009, 09:39:29 AM »

William
I agree that you need an arming switch. However,I don't think it would be a good idea to use bullet connectors. Remember that you need to put the switch in the battery wire. You want to think about heat and sparking as you try to connect and disconnect the connection. I have made a switch using Dean connectors ,like Alan
You can also use an already made arming switch but, it may not fit your interior space
and may have to be modified. I know it is hard to accept more weight and to put a hole in your fus.but, you will be glad you did. Remember, you can disguise the external plug as an airscoop or other protrusion if you make it yourself using dean connectors.

Walt

Dennis Adamisin · « **Reply #40 on:** March 12, 2009, 10:34:35 AM »

Ditto on the arming switch. I used a bullet connctor in the red wire of the ESC - similar to Bob Hunt's set-up. Like Alan, I do not want to arm the power until the last possible instant. I also want my pit man to beable to disarm the power before he picks the bird up after a flight.

Dean Pappas · « **Reply #41 on:** March 12, 2009, 09:11:07 PM »

I also like the idea of the deadman switch, using a break into the positive wire going into the ESC. The bullet connector trick looks great, even in appearance judging without the wire loop and just the little gold rings showing. The wire loop makes a great place to put a clamp-on ammeter without having to break into your setup. You will eventually develop the knack of drawing the connection spark on the very end of the bullet, rather than on the actual mating surfaces. That can't hurt.

Of course, if the spark bugs you, you can always take a page from Mike Palko's book with the resistor soft-start.

If appearance is not the end-all be-all, then consider using the wire half-loop with a pair the Anderson Stackpole (sermos) connectors instead of bullets. They are large but fairly light, and have the outstanding trait that the first connecting surface (the part that will get spark-pitted) is not the part of the connector that is mated under running. Once a Deans connector pits, the tiny weld bead that results scrapes a gouge into the entire length of its mate.

later Gang,
Dean P.

William DeMauro · « **Reply #42 on:** March 16, 2009, 01:29:24 PM »

Just to let you all know, I did it Dean's way. I used 4mm bullet connectors and split the positive wire. I did use black wire for the jumper. I thought appearace wise that looked best. Here are a few pictures of how I did this. By the way it is now completely ready to fly and will fly it at the first possible chance that I get.

Alan Hahn · « **Reply #43 on:** March 16, 2009, 01:58:45 PM »

That does look neat. I think I will adopt your idea.

If the judges ask you, just tell them that you are using tinted fuel tubing.

Dean Pappas · « **Reply #44 on:** March 16, 2009, 02:21:58 PM »

It's the tinted electrons flowing through that clear wire!
Dean

Dennis Adamisin · « **Reply #45 on:** March 17, 2009, 05:42:39 AM »

Quote from: Dean Pappas on March 16, 2009, 02:21:58 PM

It's the tinted electrons flowing through that clear wire!
Dean

Yeah, the red electrons go through the ESC and come out processed - they change color.

BTW, I did someting similar, only used 1 connector and one dangling wire. I soldered a washer to the connector body... it works but seems kinda clunky. Is there some kind of holder or base unit that can be used to anchor the bullet connector base?

Mike Anderson · « **Reply #46 on:** March 17, 2009, 07:36:18 AM »

Quote from: Dennis Adamisin on March 17, 2009, 05:42:39 AM

Yeah, the red electrons go through the ESC and come out processed - they change color.

BTW, I did someting similar, only used 1 connector and one dangling wire. I soldered a washer to the connector body... it works but seems kinda clunky. Is there some kind of holder or base unit that can be used to anchor the bullet connector base?

They change to red, but they start out black -- that's why the negative and the positive wires are black and red. And any tech will tell you that current flows from negative to positive - (most EE's will say the opposite).

As for the holder/base unit - I've seen one for Power Poles - It is a flush-mounted unit and you have a jumper wire with two matching power poles that you plug in. It is kind of klunky looking. I don't remember off-hand who the mfr. is, but I'll try to find out. I've not seen a similar unit with Dean's connectors, but it shouldn't be too hard to cobble something together. The major hurdle would be the force required to disconnect the Deans - which can be substantial sometimes. You'd have to find a pair of connectors that goes together and comes apart fairly easily, or you might pull it through the side of the fuselage trying to remove the jumper -

Using 3.5 or 4 mm. bullets would probably also require some fabrication, but wouldn't need to be quite as beefy as a Dean's might - maybe you could dress it up by disguising it as an air scoop or something.

Dean Pappas · « **Reply #47 on:** March 17, 2009, 10:23:31 AM »

Hi Guys,
Last time I worked up the bullet-style deadman plug I took a small piece of copper-clad PCB material from Radio Schlock and drilled two snug holes for the bullets. then I cut away the copper leaving a pair of "washers" on the backside and soldered the bullets into the fiberglass plate. A hole in the middle with a nut CA-ed to the back would allow you to screw it to the fuse side for removal/replacement.

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The real part was maybe 3/4" across the two bullets.

Dean

John Cralley · « **Reply #48 on:** March 18, 2009, 08:29:01 AM »

For what it is worth, I have taken to beveling the tips of the male prongs of my Dean's connectors with a chain saw sharpening stone in my Dremel tool. It makes it easier to get them plugged in but is NO help in getting them unplugged!!

John

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #49 on:** March 18, 2009, 09:22:48 AM »

Guys, Look at Anderson power pole connectors, absollute positive connection, and totally easy to disconnect, they are the cats meow!

http://cgi.ebay.com/Anderson-Power-Poles-10-Red-10-Black-30-Amp_W0QQitemZ220378780078QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item220378780078&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1234|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A2|240%3A1318

http://www.connex-electronics.com/?url=/html/products/anderson/powerpole/pp_main.html&kw=google{Anderson_Powerpole{anderson_power&gclid=CNHBvMXjrJkCFQIyxwodcApIIg

Author Topic: Electric SV-11 (Read 12018 times)

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