Author Topic: Electric SV-11 (Read 11960 times)

William DeMauro · « **on:** November 09, 2008, 07:51:55 PM »

I want to get started on my electric SV-11 and have my motor choice narrowed down to 2 motors. My finished weight goal is under 60oz with battery. I feel its very acheavable for me. One choice is the Atlas 2927-08 http://www.hobby-lobby.com/atlas2927.htm. The other is the Scorpion 3026-10 http://www.innov8tivedesigns.com/product_info.php?cPath=21_25_38&products_id=79. I plan on using a Pheonex 45, battery will be a 4 cell 4000mah or similar, and a Will Hubin timer. Prop to be determined but will start with an APC 12x6 electric. Do you think I will be better off with one motor over the other? If so, which one? I have been flying an electrified ARF Cardinal and P40 for the last year with great success and now want to move onto a real serious built up electric stunter. Thanks for your comments.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #1 on:** November 09, 2008, 07:56:51 PM »

Keep us posted on your project! I like Scorpion motors.

Alan Hahn · « **Reply #2 on:** November 09, 2008, 08:13:11 PM »

I also use Scorpion motors.

Nothing against Atlas---I haven't used one. I guess Hobby Lobby will back them up in case of trouble.

As long as the kV is ok and the physical size is in the range you are looking is there, I doubt that you can go too wrong. We really aren't stressing these motors at all in PA.

You might consider the Scorpion 3020-12, it's kV is 840 rpm/V, which might be a better match to your 4s pack.

William DeMauro · « **Reply #3 on:** November 09, 2008, 09:25:28 PM »

Alan, I think you mean the 3026-12 as the one that has the 840KV rating. I also considered that but wasn't sure that if that motor's KV rating was too low for my 4s batteries. I do think either would work, but will wait to see what others post. I have the Scorpion 3020-14 on ARF P40 and am extremly pleased with it. Power is abundant and it runs cool. I want to fly the SV 11 competitivly next year and this is my first attempt at a number one all electric stunter. I am a slow and overly deliberate builder and want to get this right the first time. I've done my experimenting and have over 80 succesful e-flights and really want to do this.

Mike Palko · « **Reply #4 on:** November 09, 2008, 09:59:32 PM »

Hi William,
I think if you went with the 3026-10 you would get the best results with a 5 or 6 pitch, while the 3026-12 would best suited with a 6 or 7 pitch. I think in the end the pros and cons are negligible, so it would be personal preference. Compare the Kv to the popular AXI 2826/10 which is 920. The Scorpion motors split the difference, hence my suggestions. Keep us posted!

Mike

Alan Hahn · « **Reply #5 on:** November 10, 2008, 06:20:09 AM »

Quote from: William DeMauro on November 09, 2008, 09:25:28 PM

Alan, I think you mean the 3026-12 as the one that has the 840KV rating. I also considered that but wasn't sure that if that motor's KV rating was too low for my 4s batteries. I do think either would work, but will wait to see what others post. I have the Scorpion 3020-14 on ARF P40 and am extremly pleased with it. Power is abundant and it runs cool. I want to fly the SV 11 competitivly next year and this is my first attempt at a number one all electric stunter. I am a slow and overly deliberate builder and want to get this right the first time. I've done my experimenting and have over 80 succesful e-flights and really want to do this.

You are right, I meant the 3026-12.

The reason I mention it (and the lower kV) is that you may want to try a larger prop than the 12-6, which will increase thrust and therefore need fewer rpm in flight. It does seem amazing that I am using the APC 12-6 prop on my Nobler, and others using it on significantly larger planes. So I was thinking why not a 13" prop? I am waiting for the day APC releases 3 blade versions of these props. One of the strengths of the electric motors are their flexibility of running many different types of prop loads. This enables us to find props that work more efficiently at lower rpms. Anyway that's my story and I'm sticking to it!

walterbro · « **Reply #6 on:** November 10, 2008, 09:04:30 AM »

William

I agree with Mike & Alan. I just ran some numbers on MOTOCALC and either motor is acceptable, But with the size model you are going to fly you will want to try a prop
that is slightly larger in Dia than the 12x6 several F2B flyers have said that the CAM
12.5 x 6 is better for the size plane you are building. If you want to have the capability to try this prop or even a 13"dia you will be happier with the 3026-12 and
kv of 840. Your battery choice is a very important decision as you will be pushing the upper limit of a 4S 4200 mah. Remember that you should limit your mah actually used
during your flights to 70% +/- of battery rating.( unless you want to use more power
and get less battery life) This is not a hard and fast rule but is "a rule or thumb".

Good luck and keep us posted.
Walt

Dennis Toth · « **Reply #7 on:** November 10, 2008, 12:18:25 PM »

William,

The SV 11 has 670 sq in wing area, a strong 46 would pull this so the 3026-10 or 12 is right there on a 12x6 APCE prop. I have been flying a 600 sq in profile, 58oz with an AXI 2826-10 and a 4s1p 3850 mah pack (all-battery.com) on a 12x5.6 APCE (repitched 12x6), 9000rpm, 65ft lines, 5.0 lap time and been very happy with the performance. With this set-up and a CC45 set for fixed RPM mode I have the flight time set for 5min 40sec and pull on average 2650mah out. I have tried cutting down an APCE 13x6.5 to 12" and repitching to 5.2 to get the same lap time but in calm conditions there was no gain only it pull about 3100mahs. The APCE 12x6 prop is amazing in its pulling power. I have tried several other sizes and brands but I keep coming back to the APCE 12x6.

The main thing you will need to deal with is the weight. I think if you can keep it under 60 oz it will it will perform well on about 63.5' lines C to C (65' including your arm length). The heaviest thing in the plane is the battery pack, the lightest pack is the Thunder Power 10-12C Pro Lite at around 12.5oz (about $189 each) I looked for alternatives and the closest I could come was the 3850mah, 10C 4S1P pack from all-battery.com at $111 each and 13.5oz (they have a typo in the listing @ 302g or 10.6oz it is 13.5oz they did confirmed the typo). With this pack and an AXI 2826/10, CC45 ESC, Ztron 3 timer you have a power package (including prop and spinner about 2.5 oz) that weights in at about 21oz leaving you 39oz to play with.

One thing you will need to be carefull about is getting the battery load positioned to get the desired CG of the plane. On my ship I was supprised how much farther back I had to move the pack to avoid adding tail weight for balance. I found that the CG of the battery (center length wise) needs to be close to the CG of the plane (about 1/2" forward of plane CG and allow for at least 3/4" for/aft movement).

Good luck with the project, Dennis

William DeMauro · « **Reply #8 on:** November 10, 2008, 06:25:39 PM »

Dennis,
Your numbers are almost exactly what I am coming up with on my own. I feel the weight is doable cause 4 years ago when I built my last SV-11, I came in at 33 oz in bare wood. This included gear, wheels and wheelpants. I then powered it with a strong ST51 and Adimisin tube muffler. With paint tank and everything else in it but fuel I was at 61 oz. Now I still have way more than enough great wood and, if I loose the mounts and crutch setup, use an iron on covering(solite if nessasary) instead of paint and a plastic spinner, I think I can get my desired weight. My Cardinal flys on 61' eyelet to eyelet and weighs in at 53 oz with the atlas 2921-08. I use about 2300 out of my 4000 4s TrueRC lipo in a 5min 40sec flight at 8900 RPM,12x6 APC e cut to 11 1/2. My P40 with the Scorpion 3020-14 with same lines and prop,but uncut and weighing in at 50oz also uses about the same mah. Since these are arf conversions I know I can do alot better on my own build,from the ground up with electric in mind.
I completly agree with Walt on the no more than 70% out of the lipo and yes I probably will be at the upper limits of a 4000mah 4s. I have about 500 mah to play with now on my current setups and know that this plane will use more. With the props I am open to sugestions and figure the 12x6 was a good starting point .
I will put up a picture of my Cardinal so you guys can see my setup and one picture of the SV 11 I wish I still had. Thanks and I will sleep on my motor choce for another day.

Leester · « **Reply #9 on:** January 25, 2009, 06:35:46 AM »

Any updates

Alan Hahn · « **Reply #10 on:** January 25, 2009, 02:30:19 PM »

Quote from: Leester on January 25, 2009, 06:35:46 AM

Any updates

I suppose it depends on whether he lives in the North or South. I haven't even seen my (brown) grass for about a month! Just white stuff. Highly unusual for this area to have the snow stick around so long!

Leester · « **Reply #11 on:** January 25, 2009, 03:36:57 PM »

He must have gotten lost or something since he hasn't posted since 11/10/08

Alan Hahn · « **Reply #12 on:** January 25, 2009, 04:12:15 PM »

Quote from: Leester on January 25, 2009, 03:36:57 PM

He must have gotten lost or something since he hasn't posted since 11/10/08

You might be right, but most of us haven't posted since then due to the great Server Crash!

I knew Sparky bragging about being the biggest was going to lead to something bad!

Leester · « **Reply #13 on:** January 25, 2009, 05:07:26 PM »

Ya your right about the posting not showing.

William DeMauro · « **Reply #14 on:** January 25, 2009, 08:23:33 PM »

Hi All,
Sorry for not posting,trying to spend as much time as I can building, Plane was mostly built but not assembled as of Friday the 23 of jan. I was going to do final assembly yesterday and for some reason I couldnt get the alignment right So I started re-measuring everything and found a very slight twist in my fuse. That is completly unacceptable to me and rather than trying to straighten it, which would require trying to get the bottom block off it,rejigging the whole thing then probably having to make new top and bottom blocks, I decided to make a whole new fuse. Besides now I get to incorperate a few minor details that would have went into a second plane before the first is even finished. I may be able to lighten it a bit more too as I feel it was a bit overbuilt. I had a projected finished weight of no less than 59 oz with battery and no more than 61. If I can lose 1-2 more ounces with the new fuse I will feel even better. I would rather delay this 2-3 weeks and get it right than forever regret putting together a plane that was "not quite right". Besides I usually hold the title as "Worlds Slowest Builder" so this is kind of a record for me. Its also winter here in NYC so I really cant fly much anyway. If I get this done by the end of Feburary I still can get the whole season out of it. I will post 2 pictures I took while trying to fit this thing together but keep in mind this is the "Reject Fuse". I started the new one today. Lets see if I can knock it out in a week!
By the way there are posts missing,probably lost in the crash, cause I know I posted until almost the end of November and I would guess that there are at least 15+ posts from just this thread missing.I belive it was about 27 posts long. I also had trouble with the pictures,something I never have trouble with. I had to Post,edit and add a pic,then edit again and add another. I guess things are still a bit buggy here but I am sure they will be straightened out.

Leester · « **Reply #15 on:** January 26, 2009, 03:06:55 AM »

Lookin good William, keep us posted on the rebuild of the fuse.

Dennis Adamisin · « **Reply #16 on:** January 26, 2009, 10:19:31 AM »

William
Too bad about the fuselage, light is good, but STRAIGHT is better. Of course, straight and light is best of all!

William DeMauro · « **Reply #17 on:** January 26, 2009, 05:54:20 PM »

Quote from: Dennis Adamisin on January 26, 2009, 10:19:31 AM

William
Too bad about the fuselage, light is good, but STRAIGHT is better. Of course, straight and light is best of all!

Dennis,
Better I catch it now than later!!!! I still have plenty of time before Spring. I think I can do a second one even lighter as I found a few blocks I had that were stashed away in a different wood box that I had. These are even lighter than the ones I used on the "reject fuse". The new fuse sides are cut and marked,doublers are cut and attached,Firewall is cut and drilled,all the formers are cut,and Its sitting in the jig just about ready to be glued. I am going to try to salvage the cowl from the reject and the canopy(already a salvage from the one in the photo above as are the LG and wheel pants). I will NOT accept anything less than straight and light!!!! I am very happy with the rest of the plane, its straight and light. This is also my opportunity to insure that this plane comes in under 60oz and I am going to take full advantage of it!!

William DeMauro · « **Reply #18 on:** January 27, 2009, 09:04:13 PM »

Quick update.
New fuse is coming out good,formers are in,firewall is in, bottom block tacked and rough shaped,landing gear mount made but not installed, nose ring cut and almost ready to install,some parts for cowling are cut. I will be busy the next few days with a few other things may not get much done but will try to do some. I will try post if i get anything significant done. Take care all.

William DeMauro · « **Reply #19 on:** February 02, 2009, 05:31:59 PM »

Update:
New fuse is coming out well. Bottom block is completely shaped hollowed and attached,main and tailgears are installed,cowl is done and attached(needs a little internal hollowing). I want to give the top block another round of sanding and get the canopy attached(I managed to salvage it ,yet again). Best of all,it's straight and already over an ounce lighter than the reject one and I haven't even hollowed out the top block yet.

Dennis Adamisin · « **Reply #20 on:** February 02, 2009, 06:33:06 PM »

STRAIGHT & light(er) Now THAT is time well spent.

William DeMauro · « **Reply #21 on:** February 06, 2009, 05:10:15 PM »

Got the top block hollowed, canopy attached and did a rough fitting together of the plane. All looks good as the plane practical fell together straight!!! I didn't take any measurements but by eye it looked right on. I will fit it with the pushrods attached tomorrow and if all looks good I will measure everything and get it assembled and ready for covering.

Dennis Toth · « **Reply #22 on:** February 10, 2009, 07:39:32 AM »

William,

I am looking at my chooses for my PA ship for this year and been following your thread. I have a ship that is similar in size to your SV11 and am looking at motor options. So far I have used the AXI 2826-10 in a 600sq profile (59oz) and it is great. The new ship is 675sq and should weigh in around 58oz (better wood). I think the 2826 might be at its limit for this and I am looking at the RimFire 42-40-920, as a possibility. It weighs 4.4oz and the larger 40mm diameter can seems like it should have more grunt then the 26mm on the AXI. I don't have a motor calc program for stunt applications and don't seem to understand what they tells us from the R/C information they give. If this would work on say a 12 3/4"x5 APCE prop (cut down and repitched 13x6.5) with the 4s1p 3850mah packs it would be perfect as I wouldn't need new 18.5V 5S1P packs. What do you think?

Best, Dennis

Alan Hahn · « **Reply #23 on:** February 10, 2009, 07:57:55 AM »

Dennis,
I am not familiar with the RimFire, but just as a question, are you sure it is physically bigger than the AXI 2826. In the case of the AXI, the 28 refers to the diameter of the stator (28mm), not the outside can. Some manufacturer's give the outer dimension of the can, and I am not sure what the RimFire does. The reason I ask is that I am amazed that the RimFire is so light. I am not sure what the AXI 2826 weight is, but the Scorpion 3026 (more or less same class as AXI 2826) weighs in at 6.7oz. The 3026 outside can diameter is ~38mm

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #24 on:** February 10, 2009, 08:27:46 AM »

RC Groups has some threads on Rim Fire motors. I'd check there before I'd commit to using one.

Dennis Toth · « **Reply #25 on:** February 10, 2009, 10:17:48 AM »

Alan,

The Rimfire web site shows a dwg and the 42 is the outside can diameter it also shows it to be 37mm Length not including the shaft which is another 17.5mm in length. The kV has changed since it was publish in Tower's catalog it is now either an 800 or 1000. Both show the capability to use 4S packs. From the tech notes on the RimFire web page (http://www.electrifly.com/motors/motors-rimfire-42-40.html) it seem that either will turn a 12x6 but the 800 may be the motor better fit for us as the current draw on an 11x7 at 9060rpm is around 34amps. This also looks very close to what I have seen on the AXI 2826-10 but it is 2oz lighter. I wonder what accounts for the lighter weight?

Best, Dennis

Archie Adamisin · « **Reply #26 on:** February 10, 2009, 11:03:18 AM »

Dennis,

I have a 42-40 Turnigy and it has a little more power than a 35-36-1200, but not much. I bought it to see if it would be the same as a 35-42 I bought and it most certainly wasn't. It will run with a 12 x 6, but it labors. You will have to use shorter lines and I don't know how the SV-11 will like that. They look really happy on full 70's.

The 35 series motors are equivalent to the Axi 28 series motors. For example, a 35-48 is a 28-26 Axi. My 35-42 would be a 28-20, 35-36 would be a 28-14, and so on. Please see the attached photo of the motors. The one on the left is the 42-40-1050. The Rim-Fire 42-40-1000 would be basically the same animal. The other motors from right to left are: Rim-Fire 35-30-1250Kv (450 watts), Rim-Fire 35-36-1200Kv(650 watts), Turnigy 35-36-1100Kv(650 watts), Turnigy 35-42-1100Kv(850 watts), & the Turnigy 42-40-1050Kv(750 watts).

Based on testing, I don't feel that the 42-40 is enough horse to fly an SV-11. It would be a nice motor to fly no more than 630 squares @ 54 ounces. I would say the 42-50 would be a better choice or even a 42-60. Kv would depend on what prop you want to run. Have you considered using a 13 x 6.5? The 42-50 would benefit from that on either 4S or even 5S. Batteries are really not a problem as much as motor selection is. Have you checked out the new Turnigy SK series Aerodrive XP? I bought one of the 35-42-1100's and it is a brute with a 12 x 6. They also have a new Red & Blue series that have (3) bearings on motors larger than 28mm. The Kv's might be too low for 4S though. Price is really affordable.

Archie Adamisin
Muncie, Indiana

Alan Hahn · « **Reply #27 on:** February 10, 2009, 11:22:58 AM »

Quote from: stuntguy13 on February 10, 2009, 10:17:48 AM

Alan,

The Rimfire web site shows a dwg and the 42 is the outside can diameter it also shows it to be 37mm Length not including the shaft which is another 17.5mm in length. The kV has changed since it was publish in Tower's catalog it is now either an 800 or 1000. Both show the capability to use 4S packs. From the tech notes on the RimFire web page (http://www.electrifly.com/motors/motors-rimfire-42-40.html) it seem that either will turn a 12x6 but the 800 may be the motor better fit for us as the current draw on an 11x7 at 9060rpm is around 34amps. This also looks very close to what I have seen on the AXI 2826-10 but it is 2oz lighter. I wonder what accounts for the lighter weight?

Best, Dennis

I see now. The "40" is the total length, while the 26 in the AXI is the stator and also the permanent magnet length. When I look at the drawing http://www.electrifly.com/motors/motors-rimfire-42-40.html, I measure the magnet and stator length to be in the 12mm range (it is the flat region on the side view)! Fully double the length is taken up by non-functional parts! I include the grabbed drawing from that link.

So my guess is this is more on the scale of the AXI 2812 (or is it 2814). More in the weight ballpark too. These motors are basically iron, copper, magnets,( the guts) and some aluminum. You can't lose that much weight and keep the same "guts"

William DeMauro · « **Reply #28 on:** February 11, 2009, 06:33:29 AM »

Hi Dennis,
I too am not familiar with the rimfire motors and appreciate the fact that others stepped in to answer this.Thanks! I am trying to do this by seeing what worked for others and a combination of what worked for me in my own experiments on my E Cardinal and P40. I will be using the Scorpion 3026-10 on my SV 11. I should weigh in at no more than 58-59 oz. This is allowing 14 oz for batteries. I am in the final assembly portion of the build now and hope to fly it sometime in March if all goes well. I hope that I am right with my selections as I want to fly this on a 4S. The good part is that if I have to go to a 5S or different motor I have enough headroom weight wise to do it. As soon as I get it completely assembled i will get a few pictures up here.

William DeMauro · « **Reply #29 on:** March 10, 2009, 06:35:29 PM »

I am finally almost done!!!! I have to permanently attach the flaps and elevators and balance it. My final weight,with battery should be between 59 and 61 oz. My large scale isn't accurate but I have a new one coming and will give an accurate reading as soon as I can. I hope to be able to fly it this weekend and will give flight reports as soon as possible. Lets hope the weather cooperates. Enjoy the pictures! I want to thank Ron Heckler for the time he spent helping me with the finish on this plane.

William DeMauro · « **Reply #30 on:** March 10, 2009, 06:58:29 PM »

Seems like I can only get 2 pictures per post so here are 2 more

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #31 on:** March 10, 2009, 07:43:58 PM »

Looks real nice. Keep us posted as to how it goes.

Alan Hahn · « **Reply #32 on:** March 11, 2009, 08:03:07 AM »

Quote from: William DeMauro on March 10, 2009, 06:58:29 PM

Seems like I can only get 2 pictures per post so here are 2 more

There is a 1Mbyte limit on the size for all attachments per post---and no more than 20 attachments (if the total is under 1Mbyte).--look at the fine print under the "Choose File" button.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #33 on:** March 11, 2009, 08:09:19 AM »

William,
How about some pics of your installation inside the cowl. I like to see how others are doing their installations. Where is the push button for the timer? Do you have a disconnect plug?

Dennis Adamisin · « **Reply #34 on:** March 11, 2009, 09:44:37 AM »

William
VERY nice and a nice competitive weight too. WAY TO GO!

Matt Colan · « **Reply #35 on:** March 11, 2009, 11:57:35 AM »

William that looks great!!!!!!!

Hope that flies as good as it looks

William DeMauro · « **Reply #36 on:** March 11, 2009, 05:54:40 PM »

OK, I have those inside the cowl and engine compartment photos. For the timer I am using a customised Will Hubin timer with adjustable warning.(described in an above post). The start button is a micro momentary contact switch that I set up myself and glued in place on the fuse. It's attached permanently but the timer is removable because the remote switch is plugged in with a micro deans.
I have a question to everyone out here. I was going to cut either the positive or negative wire of the speed control and solder either a 3mm or 4mm bullet connector to both wires and route it out then back into the fuse to act as a safety power disconnect. I figured it would look like a piece of fuel line running in and out of the fuse. I am having second thoughts on that now as I am one to believe that you should keep your possible points of failure to a minimum and having that could be a potential problem. What do you guys think?

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #37 on:** March 11, 2009, 08:17:42 PM »

Thanks William.

Alan Hahn · « **Reply #38 on:** March 12, 2009, 08:09:34 AM »

Quote from: William DeMauro on March 11, 2009, 05:54:40 PM

<snip>....
I have a question to everyone out here. I was going to cut either the positive or negative wire of the speed control and solder either a 3mm or 4mm bullet connector to both wires and route it out then back into the fuse to act as a safety power disconnect. I figured it would look like a piece of fuel line running in and out of the fuse. I am having second thoughts on that now as I am one to believe that you should keep your possible points of failure to a minimum and having that could be a potential problem. What do you guys think?

I think it is a great idea to have such a disconnect. The single wire/bullet connector idea sounds pretty good. I used a Dean's Connector for my "plug" (there is a post somewhere in this forum with a picture), but I think your idea might look cleaner overall.

I think the main reason for the arming is that you put the battery in sometime before a flight, usually in the pits area. Without an arming method, you now have a "loaded gun" setup. I always worried that somehow the pushbutton starting switch might accidentally get pushed--especially while the plane is carried out to the circle. Since most of us are conditioned to glow engines, we tend not to think that the engine may spontaneously start without flipping the prop at least. That means we wouldn't be ready to have the electric motor come alive as we walked out to the circle!

So unless you have a profile--where you can plug in the battery just before signaling the judges, I think an arming plug system really is a needed safety device on our planes.

walterbro · « **Reply #39 on:** March 12, 2009, 09:39:29 AM »

William
I agree that you need an arming switch. However,I don't think it would be a good idea to use bullet connectors. Remember that you need to put the switch in the battery wire. You want to think about heat and sparking as you try to connect and disconnect the connection. I have made a switch using Dean connectors ,like Alan
You can also use an already made arming switch but, it may not fit your interior space
and may have to be modified. I know it is hard to accept more weight and to put a hole in your fus.but, you will be glad you did. Remember, you can disguise the external plug as an airscoop or other protrusion if you make it yourself using dean connectors.

Walt

Dennis Adamisin · « **Reply #40 on:** March 12, 2009, 10:34:35 AM »

Ditto on the arming switch. I used a bullet connctor in the red wire of the ESC - similar to Bob Hunt's set-up. Like Alan, I do not want to arm the power until the last possible instant. I also want my pit man to beable to disarm the power before he picks the bird up after a flight.

Dean Pappas · « **Reply #41 on:** March 12, 2009, 09:11:07 PM »

I also like the idea of the deadman switch, using a break into the positive wire going into the ESC. The bullet connector trick looks great, even in appearance judging without the wire loop and just the little gold rings showing. The wire loop makes a great place to put a clamp-on ammeter without having to break into your setup. You will eventually develop the knack of drawing the connection spark on the very end of the bullet, rather than on the actual mating surfaces. That can't hurt.

Of course, if the spark bugs you, you can always take a page from Mike Palko's book with the resistor soft-start.

If appearance is not the end-all be-all, then consider using the wire half-loop with a pair the Anderson Stackpole (sermos) connectors instead of bullets. They are large but fairly light, and have the outstanding trait that the first connecting surface (the part that will get spark-pitted) is not the part of the connector that is mated under running. Once a Deans connector pits, the tiny weld bead that results scrapes a gouge into the entire length of its mate.

later Gang,
Dean P.

William DeMauro · « **Reply #42 on:** March 16, 2009, 01:29:24 PM »

Just to let you all know, I did it Dean's way. I used 4mm bullet connectors and split the positive wire. I did use black wire for the jumper. I thought appearace wise that looked best. Here are a few pictures of how I did this. By the way it is now completely ready to fly and will fly it at the first possible chance that I get.

Alan Hahn · « **Reply #43 on:** March 16, 2009, 01:58:45 PM »

That does look neat. I think I will adopt your idea.

If the judges ask you, just tell them that you are using tinted fuel tubing.

Dean Pappas · « **Reply #44 on:** March 16, 2009, 02:21:58 PM »

It's the tinted electrons flowing through that clear wire!
Dean

Dennis Adamisin · « **Reply #45 on:** March 17, 2009, 05:42:39 AM »

Quote from: Dean Pappas on March 16, 2009, 02:21:58 PM

It's the tinted electrons flowing through that clear wire!
Dean

Yeah, the red electrons go through the ESC and come out processed - they change color.

BTW, I did someting similar, only used 1 connector and one dangling wire. I soldered a washer to the connector body... it works but seems kinda clunky. Is there some kind of holder or base unit that can be used to anchor the bullet connector base?

Mike Anderson · « **Reply #46 on:** March 17, 2009, 07:36:18 AM »

Quote from: Dennis Adamisin on March 17, 2009, 05:42:39 AM

Yeah, the red electrons go through the ESC and come out processed - they change color.

BTW, I did someting similar, only used 1 connector and one dangling wire. I soldered a washer to the connector body... it works but seems kinda clunky. Is there some kind of holder or base unit that can be used to anchor the bullet connector base?

They change to red, but they start out black -- that's why the negative and the positive wires are black and red. And any tech will tell you that current flows from negative to positive - (most EE's will say the opposite).

As for the holder/base unit - I've seen one for Power Poles - It is a flush-mounted unit and you have a jumper wire with two matching power poles that you plug in. It is kind of klunky looking. I don't remember off-hand who the mfr. is, but I'll try to find out. I've not seen a similar unit with Dean's connectors, but it shouldn't be too hard to cobble something together. The major hurdle would be the force required to disconnect the Deans - which can be substantial sometimes. You'd have to find a pair of connectors that goes together and comes apart fairly easily, or you might pull it through the side of the fuselage trying to remove the jumper -

Using 3.5 or 4 mm. bullets would probably also require some fabrication, but wouldn't need to be quite as beefy as a Dean's might - maybe you could dress it up by disguising it as an air scoop or something.

Dean Pappas · « **Reply #47 on:** March 17, 2009, 10:23:31 AM »

Hi Guys,
Last time I worked up the bullet-style deadman plug I took a small piece of copper-clad PCB material from Radio Schlock and drilled two snug holes for the bullets. then I cut away the copper leaving a pair of "washers" on the backside and soldered the bullets into the fiberglass plate. A hole in the middle with a nut CA-ed to the back would allow you to screw it to the fuse side for removal/replacement.

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The real part was maybe 3/4" across the two bullets.

Dean

John Cralley · « **Reply #48 on:** March 18, 2009, 08:29:01 AM »

For what it is worth, I have taken to beveling the tips of the male prongs of my Dean's connectors with a chain saw sharpening stone in my Dremel tool. It makes it easier to get them plugged in but is NO help in getting them unplugged!!

John

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #49 on:** March 18, 2009, 09:22:48 AM »

Guys, Look at Anderson power pole connectors, absollute positive connection, and totally easy to disconnect, they are the cats meow!

http://cgi.ebay.com/Anderson-Power-Poles-10-Red-10-Black-30-Amp_W0QQitemZ220378780078QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item220378780078&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1234|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A2|240%3A1318

http://www.connex-electronics.com/?url=/html/products/anderson/powerpole/pp_main.html&kw=google{Anderson_Powerpole{anderson_power&gclid=CNHBvMXjrJkCFQIyxwodcApIIg

Dennis Adamisin · « **Reply #50 on:** March 18, 2009, 09:45:57 AM »

Quote from: John Cralley on March 18, 2009, 08:29:01 AM

For what it is worth, I have taken to beveling the tips of the male prongs of my Dean's connectors with a chain saw sharpening stone in my Dremel tool. It makes it easier to get them plugged in but is NO help in getting them unplugged!!

John

HobbyCity sells a clone of the Ultra plug that has finger grips on it. MUCH easier to handle!

William DeMauro · « **Reply #51 on:** March 18, 2009, 04:44:49 PM »

Hi guys,
Just to let you know how i did this: I cut 2 1/4" brass rings about 1/4" in length. Drilled 2 holes in the fuse and epoxied them in. The 4mm female connector with shrink tubing is a snug fit inside the 1/4 inch ring, I put some white glue on the shrink tubing and pushed them into the ring. My hope is that this will be strong enough.(it certainly seems that way.) Also if I ever have to get it apart,speedcontrol change or whatever, the white glue should break away with a little force, if not i can always cut the shrink tubing and push them through then dig out the tubing later. I wanted to keep this a simple as possible.
William

William DeMauro · « **Reply #52 on:** March 18, 2009, 04:56:34 PM »

By the way Dennis, I have never used the Hobby City Clones but they may be worth a look for a future project. I've experimented with clones from 3 different sources. The only good ones I ever found came from http://www.dollarrcparts.com/depl10.html. They fit together properly and fit with originals without any problems.
William

Alan Hahn · « **Reply #53 on:** March 19, 2009, 08:09:51 AM »

I have only used "real" Deans Ultra's and find that it isn't that difficult to separate the two halves.

Some people claim that you should plug the male and female Deans together when soldering wires. That way if you overheat the plastic during the soldering, the correct spacing of the two pins is preserved. I haven't had to do that, but it sounds reasonable.

William DeMauro · « **Reply #54 on:** March 19, 2009, 06:24:34 PM »

Alan,
I have never had a separation problem with the "real Deans" either. I also never had a problem with the ones from DollarRc. The others;I don't have much nice to say so I won't say anything. I never plugged them together while soldering but I've alaways used a real hot soldering iron and pretinned both the wire and the tab on the Deans. Then I put the the tinned wire on the tinned tab and reheat just long enough for everthing to melt together and let it set.
William

Dean Pappas · « **Reply #55 on:** March 19, 2009, 09:27:53 PM »

Hi All,
Mark's post about the connectors he found on Ebay is the same connector I was referring to in my earlier post.
They are physically large but excellent items.
Thanks Mark.
Dean

Alan Hahn · « **Reply #56 on:** March 20, 2009, 07:38:22 AM »

Quote from: William DeMauro on March 19, 2009, 06:24:34 PM

Alan,
I have never had a separation problem with the "real Deans" either. I also never had a problem with the ones from DollarRc. The others;I don't have much nice to say so I won't say anything. I never plugged them together while soldering but I've alaways used a real hot soldering iron and pretinned both the wire and the tab on the Deans. Then I put the the tinned wire on the tinned tab and reheat just long enough for everthing to melt together and let it set.
William

William,
We seem to have the same soldering technique!

John Cralley · « **Reply #57 on:** March 20, 2009, 10:03:50 AM »

For what it is worth, I have some Deans Solder Couplers (RC Dude Hobbies Items - 10pcs @ $3.95) which I have yet to try. These are small brass pieces which have a "fork" on one end to fit over the Deans solder post and a hole on the other (al la a banana plug) into which you solder the wire. These should make a neat connection when the heat shrink tubing is applied. You could easily make your own from a suitable sized brass tube.

RC Dude also has Scorpion motors at a slight discount from list price.

William DeMauro · « **Reply #58 on:** April 09, 2009, 06:59:41 PM »

Its been along time coming but I finally flew it today!!!! The conditions were actually pretty bad with 12-15mph winds but I am going on vacation next week and wanted to get it in the air before I left. The first flight was boring, only level flight as my neutral was off more than I expected. My Will Hubin timer did work perfectly as planned and we took enough lap times to realize I was running a 5.1 sec lap on my 64' of lines. My estimates that I had worked on for RPM and lap time were right on the money!!!!
The second flight allowed me to do more, but I still wouldn't push things. I flew some lazy 8,s,inside loops,inverted and a few inside squares. It turned how I expected it to, and tracked as well as can be expected considering the conditions. I was surprised at the amount of glide after the power was cut,almost 2 laps, but after I touched down it rolled more than half a lap,that what I get for putting brass bushings in my wheels.
I may have to remove about 1/4 oz of tip weight,wing appeared to be flying a bit low. I also think that I may need to move my leadouts forward as it wasn't quite as square with the lines as it should be. I wont rush these adjustments till I fly it in better conditions.
As far as the battery goes I put about 2600 back into each. I expect that to climb in better conditions and when I fly the pattern. By how much I don't know? If anyone has an idea of what I could expect, I'd be curious. I flew this on .018's today as I wanted to stay cautious due to the wind and my inaccurate scale.Better to be safe than sorry.

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #59 on:** April 09, 2009, 08:29:00 PM »

congrats on getting some air mixed with your electrons!
look forward to more progress reports on your creation....

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #60 on:** April 09, 2009, 10:01:44 PM »

Way to go William!

Sounds like you are on your way. Please keep us posted on your progress. I'm watching what you put back in your batteries. Being my pack is 3400mah I'll be shooting for 2600-2700mah per flight. BTW, Saturday will be the maiden flight on my Resolve EP.

Again, great job!

Alan Hahn · « **Reply #61 on:** April 10, 2009, 07:50:09 AM »

William,
I am not sure if this will scale for you, but when I cruise I use about 260 watts, and my peak maneuvers pull about 450 watts. The average over the whole flight is about 300 watts. So I am guessing, that if you keep your lap speed where it is now, then I would expect you would use another 10-15% more battery capacity--so lets say somewhere in the 3000 to 3200 mAHr range. I will say that I use less on windy days and I assume that's because I get a boost from the wind during the maneuvers and not (I am guessing here) during the level laps.

But since I think you have 4000 mAHr packs, you should be in fine shape.

William DeMauro · « **Reply #62 on:** April 10, 2009, 12:31:17 PM »

Thanks Alan,
My initial estimates were 3000-3200,so I was a bit surprised at only using 2600, but with the wind and only limited maneuvers I guess I am on the right track. I can't wait till next week to fly this again.

bob branch · « **Reply #63 on:** April 12, 2009, 08:57:46 AM »

A very little vaseline on the blades of the deans connectors eliminates the difficulty in taking them apart.

bob

William DeMauro · « **Reply #64 on:** April 26, 2009, 09:12:29 PM »

Finally a good day of flying!!!!!!!!! I finally got out and got some real good flight on my SV11 today and finally have some numbers to go by. I put in 5 flights today and all 5 were the pattern. Temp as about 85 wind was about 5 all day. First flight was a bit fast for me at about a 5.01 lap time on my 64' length lines. Bob Lampione was my official time Keeper for the day. I pulled 2919mah out of the battery. 9300 was my RPM # for the day. I felt it was a little close and it had plenty of power so for the last 4 flights I flew it on lines that were 15" longer.(my lines from my gas powered SV11). My lap times went up to an almost perfect 5.2 second lap. Power through the maneuvers was awsome and I felt like I had great line tension everywhere. My biggest complaint was that it still feels just a little light in the nose,but I do like to fly my planes more nose heavy than most. I will add 1/2 oz for next time and go from there. Tip weight seems good but the outboard wing seems to me to be a bit low rightside up and high inverted. My spotters say "no" I will keep an eye on it. I have tabs to adjust if needed. My mah usage for the other 4 flights were 2872,2884,2904 and 2789. Flight times were about 5min 35sec. Power consumpsion is less than I thought it would be. My batteries are all new I have 3 brand new polyquest 4 cell 4270 18 c lipos from RClipo.com and 2 new flightmax 4400 from hobby city. They are all barely warm after the flight. The polyquest weight was less than published at 390 grams so I made up a 1 oz weight to make up the weight to put in the battery compartment difference with the flightmax. I need the weight anyway. Flightmax are 420 grams. I'm off to a very good start and will post some flying pictures from my first flying session a few weeks ago that I will be getting from my friend Ron H.

Dennis Adamisin · « **Reply #65 on:** April 26, 2009, 09:28:06 PM »

Now THAT's the kind of day I am waiting for. CONGRADS on a great project - now keep practicing!

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #66 on:** April 26, 2009, 09:47:39 PM »

Thanks for the details William. 85 and 5 all day!

William DeMauro · « **Reply #67 on:** April 27, 2009, 04:24:49 PM »

Thanks for all the encouragement from all out here ,now here are a few pictures from my first time out with it on 4-9-09 . These were taken by Ron Heckler.

Matt Colan · « **Reply #68 on:** April 28, 2009, 03:46:43 PM »

Looks good in the air William!!! If I could only talk my grandparents to go to Flushing this year, I would be able to see it

William DeMauro · « **Reply #69 on:** April 29, 2009, 03:11:48 AM »

Matt,
Thanks for the comments,I'm sure Flushing is pretty far for you,but we have 2 contests a year there,one at the end of May and one at the end of September and we would love to have you stop by. I will also fly a few of the Jersey contests this year,Bergen County and Lincoln park almost for sure. The Nats and Brodak are almost defiantly out for me due to my work schedule.

Dennis Toth · « **Reply #70 on:** April 29, 2009, 12:23:07 PM »

William,

Is your line length eyelet to eyelet of 64' or Center of fuse to center of handle? For the balance can you move the battery forward? I have set my battery holder up to allow shifting +-3/4" which has been enough for different weight pack.

Best, Dennis

William DeMauro · « **Reply #71 on:** April 29, 2009, 06:57:59 PM »

Dennis,
My line length is now 65'3'' eyelet to eyelet. My lap times are at 5.2 so I am happy with what I have for now. I am able to move my battery forward and back at least an inch maybe a bit more as I tried to figure a little weight and balance into my build. I missed on that (for me) as my batteries are already as far forward as I can get them. For most people out here the plane is probably balanced perfect. I like my planes just slightly more nose heavy than most others. This is just a personal preference. If I was 1/4-1/2 oz lighter in the tail I would probably be happy. If my stab was 1/4 inch more forward that would have worked too. Considering that I didn't have much to go on and as far as I know I am the first to convert an SV11 to electric I did come out closer than I thought I would for weight and balance. I actually was very worried that I was going to end up very nose heavy. I was also worried that I wouldn't have enough power. I missed big on that. This thing has plenty to spare as it flies through the pattern easily. I only have 8 flights on it so far and next time out I will work on the nose weight and on getting my wings perfectly level both upright and inverted.
William

William DeMauro · « **Reply #72 on:** June 21, 2009, 05:02:41 AM »

Hi,
I want to apologize for not updating more frequently but work,weather, and plain old frustration with this plane has kept me from posting very much on here at all. I have now completed 31 flights. The first 29 of which were very frustrating. I had a hunting problem that was driving me crazy and not much time to fly. I was finally able to start working it out last week. I tried all the usual solutions without much success.(Nose weight and up and down engine incidence) I even tried a reverse pitch prop just to try to change things up.(Don't do that to a Scorpion version 1 that is rear mounted.) That cost me my motor as the cooling holes don't cool very well in reverse. I now have a Scorpion SII-3026-890 on it. I am still running the reverse pitch 12x6 APC thin electric on it. Finally after flying last Saturday And Sunday I was able to bring myself to cut this plane open and add some slop to the elevator. I knew I could work on this as I was also granted this week off from work as a vacation week unexpectedly opened up and I grabbed it. It was way better on Tuesday but not quite right.
Tuesday evening I get a call from Bob Lampione asking if I want to go to Brodak's,we leave tomorrow 5 AM. Not caring if the plane was right or not I said OK. After driving for about 7 hours on Wednesday I didn't feel like flying and spent the day meeting people that I had only read about on here or in magazines. Thurday morning I woke up and decided to put the motor back to 0 incidence figuring it couldn't be any worse. Finally Thursday afternoon I get an opportunity to try it. Matt Colan offers to pit for me and before I got 1 lap done I knew it wasn't going to hunt anymore!!!!! I finally flew a complete pattern without fighting this plane. Friday I flew a respectable 483 in Expert stunt with it in what I consider only my second real flight on it. I passed on Saturday as we wanted to get an early start for home. I had a great time at Brodak's. I want to thank Big Art, Archie and Dennis for being so nice to me. By the way Dennis's new e-plane flies great and I had a blast flying Dennis's Baby E-Clown.

Dennis Adamisin · « **Reply #73 on:** June 21, 2009, 06:00:15 AM »

Enjoyed meeting/ talking ECL with Will. He has a lot of great ideas and gave me a lot of tips to apply to some of the coming birds. At one point we had had our two birds side by side comparing notes and discussing them with Gerry Phelps and Tom Morris - who were both enthusiastically talking about building ECL birds.

...and I'm here to testify that Will's SV-11 is the REAL DEAL. Flies with authority, even in the absolutely dead air we tried practicing in on Thursday afternoon. Sound's like Will has been battling through some trim issues - but looks like he has it "wired" now. Looking good.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #74 on:** June 21, 2009, 08:05:48 AM »

Will,
Glad to see you have things worked out. If I have this right, to eliminate your hunting problem:
1) You added some elevator slop
2) Put the engine at zero degrees up/down thrust.

William DeMauro · « **Reply #75 on:** June 21, 2009, 12:17:13 PM »

Quote from: Crist Rigotti on June 21, 2009, 08:05:48 AM

Will,
Glad to see you have things worked out. If I have this right, to eliminate your hunting problem:
1) You added some elevator slop
2) Put the engine at zero degrees up/down thrust.

Crist,
Basically yes, when I built it I had about 1 degree downthrust in the engine. First thing I tried when I was trying to get rid of the hunting was more downthrust in the motor. When that didn't work I went the other way and started feeding upthrust into it. All those two things did was affect the way it turned in one direction or another. Last Monday I reached the point where I had nothing to lose and cut it open I drilled out the hole in the flaphorn that goes to the elevator.(It was the only one that I had any shot of getting apart). When I flew on Tuesday it was way improved but still not where I wanted it but I still had some"up" thrust in the motor. On Thursday before I went out to fly it I pulled the last shims out, putting the motor back to where I started when I built the plane. So technically I guess I shouldn't have said zero incidence. The other thing I did was lower my battery down about 1/2" even though I don't think I had a vertical CG problem. In any case something I did must have been right since it's not hunting anymore. Now I can focus on flying it and standard trim setting such as handle spacing, fine tuning tip weight etc.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #76 on:** June 21, 2009, 12:33:37 PM »

Thank you for your detailed reply William. I too have some hunt and wanted to know the details. I'll try what you did.

Matt Colan · « **Reply #77 on:** June 23, 2009, 06:28:03 PM »

I launched for Will at Brodak, well just pushed the button, and it looks like the plane flies really well. Hopefully we'll see each other again this year, maybe Lee, if you're able to go. We are already making plans for Brodak next year.

RandySmith · « **Reply #78 on:** June 26, 2009, 09:46:18 PM »

Good Job Will !
I look forward to seeing the SV-11 , we talked about it so much I would love to see it fly in person. I hated to miss Brodaks this year. but no other choice

Randy

Ralph Wenzel (d) · « **Reply #79 on:** June 26, 2009, 10:21:48 PM »

For (relatively) ease of unplugging Deans Ultra connectors, make a double loop of dental floss tape that runs between the terminals. Do this on both sides. When you want to unplug, just stick a finger into each loop and pull. Much easier . . .

BTW, the Zippy seems to be one of the few "Hong Kong-based" LiPo batteries with a decent reputation, and they have a new offering for a very reasonable price - a 4S-4900 mah unit weighs 416 grams (14.6 oz.). See:

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=7296

William DeMauro · « **Reply #80 on:** July 25, 2009, 06:03:38 PM »

Quick update,
Four really good flights today, I think that makes a grand total of 38 or 39 so still not getting the time that I want on it. Lap times are still around 5.0-5.1. Power is Awesome! I feel I may be able to knock about 100 more RPM off and still be OK. I may go to wider line spacing to speed up the turning. I've always flown with narrow spacing and realize at this level,If I want to stay competitive I have to fly the plane a little harder.. This is more of a style change that I have to make than a problem with the plane. I'm still using around 2800 mah out of my batteries.

Matt Colan · « **Reply #81 on:** July 25, 2009, 06:32:44 PM »

Sounds like it flies good Will! Any chance you'll make it to Lee in about a month?

William DeMauro · « **Reply #82 on:** July 25, 2009, 07:40:10 PM »

Quote from: Matt Colan on July 25, 2009, 06:32:44 PM

Sounds like it flies good Will! Any chance you'll make it to Lee in about a month?

Not sure at this time, I,ve never been there. My sister lives up near Boston and I've never been to her house so mabye I can make a weekend out of it. Isn't that quite a trip for you, probably further than me.

William DeMauro · « **Reply #83 on:** July 25, 2009, 07:45:07 PM »

Quote from: William DeMauro on July 25, 2009, 07:40:10 PM

Not sure at this time, I,ve never been there. My sister lives up near Boston and I've never been to her house so mabye I can make a weekend out of it. Isn't that quite a trip for you, probably further than me.

I just looked at a map and I am probably closer to lee than my sister.

Matt Colan · « **Reply #84 on:** July 26, 2009, 07:03:36 AM »

Quote from: William DeMauro on July 25, 2009, 07:40:10 PM

Not sure at this time, I,ve never been there. My sister lives up near Boston and I've never been to her house so mabye I can make a weekend out of it. Isn't that quite a trip for you, probably further than me.

Lee is about a 4 to 4 1/2 hour ride, definitely not like the 13 hour drive to Brodak. Lee is on the western end of Massachusetts, about 45 minutes from Albany.

Quote from: William DeMauro on July 25, 2009, 07:45:07 PM

I just looked at a map and I am probably closer to lee than my sister.

Yes, Boston is on the other end of the state, closer to where the Mass Cup contest is being held this year in Wrentham.

john e. holliday · « **Reply #85 on:** July 26, 2009, 12:56:16 PM »

You guys in the NE parts of this great country don't know about driving distances. The first Chickopee NATS I am looking at the map and thinking when I hit the state line it will only be a couple of hours to the base. About a half hour later we were there. I mean it sits in the middle of the state. Topeka sits just above the center of Kansas and takes about two hours to get to the southern state line. Most contests are over 200 miles for me here in indian country. DOC Holliday

PS:Didn't mean to high jack the post as I may try one of these electronic wonders. I keep thinking back to the day when I didn't really know an .049 from a .60 as far as use and power. jeh

Matt Colan · « **Reply #86 on:** July 27, 2009, 05:50:44 AM »

The nearest contest for us, is Lee and that is 4 hours away and something close to 200-250 miles away. I'm 10 minutes from Canada, and grandpa and I are the only two CL fliers in our area. We have a neighbor that shows some interest in CL, but other than that no one here flies. There is an RC club about a half hour away from us, but they didn't mow a circle for us so we had to whip the plane around because we could only land on the runway since the grass is tall.

I do know there is another PAMPA member, but he lives in Middlebury, an 1 1/2 hour drive, so we have never met this person.

DOC, Massachusetts is a pretty small state but at least it is inhabited. In the rural area of Vermont, (we are what is called an urban area, but is a rural spot) there is nothing. I think New York is a small state because I think of New York as the city and Long Island. Everywhere else I don't consider New York. But it is a trek for us to go to any contest, that is why we only go to 3 or maybe 4 a year.

Edit: I just thought of something, host a contest up here in Vermont, have everybody come up to us. The only place I would be able to see a contest to be held, would be my school, where the parking lot can hold two circles and 30 or so other acres grass that could be mowed for other circles. Hmmm...maybe someday it could happen.

steve pagano · « **Reply #87 on:** September 10, 2009, 11:56:48 AM »

Hi Will

Finally saw that bird fly in person on saturday and boy does she put on a show!!! Never new you could get so much power from an electric!

Steve P.

William DeMauro · « **Reply #88 on:** September 11, 2009, 06:36:53 AM »

Thanks Steve!!! I guess I owe you all an update anyway. It is now up to flight 61 and I am finally getting good flights consistently out of it as most of the major bugs seem to be worked out. I've taken the aluminum landing gear and wheelpants off (weight 3.8 oz) and switched to a carbonfiber gear and no wheelpants(weight 1.7 oz). Thanks Jose Modesto for the gear!!!! This was done to lighten the plane and correct a vertical CG issue that seemed to be there. I've been working with Jose Modesto to try to get the last minor trim issues corrected and that was one he picked up on. I am averaging 2700-2800 out of my batteries consistently now. Still using the 12x6 pusher and am able to use some 3600 mah batteries that I have for my Cardinal if I want extra flights. I'll have it out this Sunday at the Pal Park Contest, hopefully it will do OK. At least Mike Palko wont be the lone "E" guy there. Now if I could only fly like him!!!!

William DeMauro · « **Reply #89 on:** September 20, 2009, 01:04:12 PM »

I flew the new 13x4.5 on the SV11 today. I cut it down to 12" and started at 10100 rpm. This gave me a 5.6 second lap which was about .5 slower than I was flying it at. Incredibly it chugged through the whole pattern with power even in the overhead and vertical 8. For the next 3 flights I was at 10200 as this was the max setting available to me today. It flew a nice pattern at 5.5. I would prefer to fly the plane somewhere from 5.3-5.4 so After I went home I reset the speedcontrol to 10200,10300 and 10400. next time out I will fly at 10300. On the first battery I recharged(a 5.5 one) I put 2555 mah back in. I have plenty of room to go with more RPM. I now know that I can use the 3600 batteries that I have for the Cardinal in this. For the first time since I started flying this plane I didn't feel like I was being rushed. I think these props are going to work out real good for us.

Dennis Adamisin · « **Reply #90 on:** September 20, 2009, 01:18:50 PM »

Now THAT is good to hear. Based on the Pathfinder with the cut down prop it sounds like you are going to be coming in around the same RPM.

THANKS for the fast feedback.

Archie Adamisin · « **Reply #91 on:** September 20, 2009, 02:55:01 PM »

Great news Will. Glad to hear that the prop is working out for you. I can't wait to see your Sv go. I have heard many great things about it.

Archie Adamisin
Muncie, Indiana

Arch Adamisin · « **Reply #92 on:** September 20, 2009, 09:38:04 PM »

I guess that trip to Detroit was worth it.
We all certainly enjoyed your visit and hope you can do it again sometime.
Arch

Author Topic: Electric SV-11 (Read 11960 times)

Alan Hahn

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