Author Topic: Electric Conversion Skyray 35 or Banshee (Read 5082 times)

MikeyPratt · « **on:** December 20, 2021, 12:58:40 PM »

Hi Guy’s,
I’m looking at two kits that I want to convert to electric, Skyray 35, and good old Sig Banshee. Each of these kits will be changed for the popular electric motors, current ESC, timers and battery sizes. My Question for you is which of the kits to start first? The plan is to provide a built log, including covering and painting each model, then a flight log to set up the model for contests. This won’t be super fast because I have other projects that I’m working on also. You can order a kit from Sig and follow along or use an existing kits you may have already. again, when finished it will have all the items listed that were used along with specs.

Let me know what you think?

Mikey Pratt

Dennis Toth · « **Reply #1 on:** December 20, 2021, 04:06:31 PM »

Mike,
Since you are doing a new kit will you engineer the component installation around electric or use the IC structure and just convert? It would be great if you did a version that was geared around design changes to make for electric and save the extra weight and structure that would be used if only converting from IC. Would love to see the Banshee.

Best, DennisT

Brent Williams · « **Reply #2 on:** December 20, 2021, 05:01:34 PM »

Pat Johnston has outlined a few conversion packages for these sizes of planes. (Brodak, RSM do as well.)
I have attached Pat's info. It might save someone out there a bit of effort.

MikeyPratt · « **Reply #3 on:** December 20, 2021, 05:20:06 PM »

Since you are doing a new kit will you engineer the component installation around electric or use the IC structure and just convert? It would be great if you did a version that was geared around design changes to make for electric and save the extra weight and structure that would be used if only converting from IC.

Dennis,
If there are changes to the kit them I’ll recommend that as well, but we will see what happens. I know I want to change a bunch of things to update it, so I can’t say for sure right now. They make the kits, but they listen to me anyway lol

Mikey,
PS: So one vote for the Banshee (3) (0) Skyray 35
PPS: Or plan “B” kit bash it into a F3F wildcat

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #4 on:** December 20, 2021, 10:15:02 PM »

Either one works for me. "Just buy one from Sig and follow along" won't work for the Skyray -- I ordered one six weeks ago for a Christmas gift; Sig says they're out of stock and don't know when they'll get more. So someone is getting an old Banshee kit that I have lying around along with advice to leave the flaps off.

MikeyPratt · « **Reply #5 on:** December 20, 2021, 11:49:08 PM »

Quote from: Tim Wescott on December 20, 2021, 10:15:02 PM

Either one works for me. "Just buy one from Sig and follow along" won't work for the Skyray -- I ordered one six weeks ago for a Christmas gift; Sig says they're out of stock and don't know when they'll get more. So someone is getting an old Banshee kit that I have lying around along with advice to leave the flaps off.

Tim,
Glad you will be building along with me, that will be a blast. So far my plan is to use a Bad Ass motor 2826 with a 5 cell 2000 mAh pack CC lite 50 amp, or Jetti Spin Pro 66, with a Fiortti active timer, CA three blade prop. I think this will make a great combination that’s easy to duplicates that provides excellent performance, with out floating a loan for higher priced equipment. I’m not cheap, but I’m retired now lol.

Later,
Mikey

MikeyPratt · « **Reply #6 on:** December 22, 2021, 11:25:14 AM »

It seems like I’m going to start on the Banshee and go from there. So what do you want it to look like when finished, in my opinion the Banshee can be changed to look like a number of aircraft out there with its mid wing design so I’m looking at the following:

Wildcat FM2 Navy Fighter (my personal choice).
Shoestring Racer.

With Slightly more work by lowering the wing in the fuselage and adding dihedral to get the vertical CG in the proper location, very easy mod.

Warhawk P-40
Hellcat Navy Fighter
Mustang P-51
Zero

I’m sure there are more choices out there but I wanted to get your opinion before I start hacking on balsa and drawing something up. So let me know what you would like to see (or should I go off in my own direction and come up with something new).

Mikey

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #7 on:** December 22, 2021, 12:40:49 PM »

I'd say go with a plain ol' Banshee. If it won't offend your sensibilities, Fancherize it by moving the wing forward and adding a couple inches of span to the tail.

If you don't Fancherize it -- I'm not sure how the CG ends up on an electrocuted Banshee. If you leave that looooong nose on there you'll have plenty of room for batteries and whatnot, but maybe not the right CG. It would be interesting to see how that works out.

Please look at this thread for the motor mount -- the Banshee is a trainer, and that thread has some ideas for mounts for trainers. I like Mike Alimov's mounts, because (A) they look sensible, and (B) he says that he's tested them in real "motor into brown stuff" events and had the motor come away un-bent.

MikeyPratt · « **Reply #8 on:** December 22, 2021, 07:34:58 PM »

I'm not sure how the CG ends up on an electrocuted Banshee. If you leave that looooong nose on there you'll have plenty of room for batteries and whatnot, but maybe not the right CG. It would be interesting to see how that works out.

Tim,
My plan is to use a G-10 front mount the same as I done on my electric models, if they want to change it, then they can but I’m staying with the front mount. Tim, do you think I haven’t designed models before? Believe me it will balance when done and look good doing it.

Mike

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #9 on:** December 22, 2021, 09:23:05 PM »

Quote from: MikeyPratt on December 22, 2021, 07:34:58 PM

... Tim, do you think I haven’t designed models before? Believe me it will balance when done and look good doing it ...

I'm aware you design models. I design electronic systems for a living, and I still consider suggestions from my coworkers.

Dennis Toth · « **Reply #10 on:** December 23, 2021, 07:25:35 AM »

Mike,
I think the 5S - 2200mah for the Banshee may be more than you need. I have been flying my Still Stuka (48" span) with a Thunder Power 4S - 2200mah pack that draws around 1825mahs. I fly it on 60' C to C 0.015" lines at around a lap time of 4.7 sec. The 4S pack is 6.9 oz. vs. the 5S at 8.85 oz. save 1.95 oz.

I think the BadAss 2814-980Kv would be enough on a APCE -P 10x6 at 4.13 oz. compared to the BadAss 2826-1080Kv at 6.38 oz. save 2.25 oz. Total weight savings 4.2 oz. worth trying for. Just my thoughts.

Best, DennisT

Dennis Adamisin · « **Reply #11 on:** December 23, 2021, 09:06:49 AM »

Hi Mikey!

First off, Merry Christmas & Happy New Year. Hope all is well with you & your family.

I would vote for a tricked-out Banshee. I have one and am planning on moving the wing forward about 1.5", a new horizontal tail a little wider and couple inches longer then enlarging the fin a smidgen so it looks right with the enlarged stab. Also plan on adding half-ribs and seeing whatever other trouble I can get into can't remember if it had wing asymmetry but mine will be equal span so it can better handle lightweight (probably 40# x 60') Spectra lines. Mine will be set-up for an APC 10x5.8EP with a Brodak 2814 motor, & 4Sx2200 pack. YES, I am overthinking it. Safe bet is that it will fly well.

If you keep the stock long nose, then a BA 2320/1310 kV with a 3Sx3000 pack is REALLY light and will turn the 10x5.8EP. With this combo you might need nose weight!

MikeyPratt · « **Reply #12 on:** December 23, 2021, 09:56:58 AM »

Quote from: Dennis Adamisin on December 23, 2021, 09:06:49 AM

Hi Mikey!

First off, Merry Christmas & Happy New Year. Hope all is well with you & your family.

I would vote for a tricked-out Banshee. I have one and am planning on moving the wing forward about 1.5", a new horizontal tail a little wider and couple inches longer then enlarging the fin a smidgen so it looks right with the enlarged stab. Also plan on adding half-ribs and seeing whatever other trouble I can get into can't remember if it had wing asymmetry but mine will be equal span so it can better handle lightweight (probably 40# x 60') Spectra lines. Mine will be set-up for an APC 10x5.8EP with a Brodak 2814 motor, & 4Sx2200 pack. YES, I am overthinking it. Safe bet is that it will fly well.

Dennis Ol Friend
Thanks and all the best to you and yours along with a happy new year, man it’s been way too long Buddy. Yeah the Banshee is pretty darn good model to start with, but upgrading it some certainly won’t hurt it. Your pretty much where I’m at with the changes, my thinking is (I have one) a BA 2826 so I know it’s a little much for the Banshee, but that’s better than not enough. I also want to use this to try different motors, ESC, timers and props. I want this to be killer performance, hands down. I’m also a big believer in three blade props because I like the way they pull an lock on the corners. I’m still not a big believer on the pusher props as normal, just to many goofy things happen during the maneuvers that I don’t like. I’m not sure where this will wind up right now, but rest assured it will be better.

I do have some really good ideas on this that have proven to work well on other models.

Later,
Mikey

PS The smaller motor that was recommended by Dennis T is what I was thinking for the Skyray 35, but that’s next lol.

Dennis Toth · « **Reply #13 on:** December 24, 2021, 07:39:53 AM »

Mike,
The BA motor OK for overkill but for the average flier saving a couple oz. is hard to come by from any kit. I like the three blade props also and have used Master Airscew pusher three blades. The MA props are all roughly 1" lower pitch then stated. On my Stuka I've used their 9x7 three blade pusher and it is fine. Toughest thing with three blades is getting light weight spinners. Dubro makes some but in limited colors and sizes.

As far as pusher vs. tractor, I fine that most people that had trouble put them on a ship that was set-up for conventional counterclockwise (tractor) rotation. With the conventional counterclockwise tractor there is an upward pitching moment from the circular flight path. Some trim this out when building by building in a 1/32" or so of negative pitch in the stab, others add down thrust or just adjust the elevator/flap to compensate. When they put the clockwise pusher on all this is reversed, you get and upward pitching moment and the trim goes off. If the ship is set up from the start for pusher, either with everything zero or slight up in the stab things trim as normal. For me the thing I like with the pusher is the extra line tension on outside maneuvers. I think this is just mental as I feel I can handle a little less line tension going up on insides as opposed to down on outsides. The side benefit from the pusher setup is you can install the bellcrank with the arm facing out not needing the pushrod over the leadouts. It has the back line as up to give that little extra yaw on the insides when the torque moment wants to move the nose in. Just my thoughts.

Best, DennisT

John Tate · « **Reply #14 on:** December 24, 2021, 11:52:13 AM »

I am modifying a Sig Banshee to a Miss BJ from the Flying Models plan. The battery is a Thunder Power Prolite X TP 2200MAH battery. The motor is a Arrowwind 2815/09. I have use this combination on similar size models with no problems. The Miss BJ nose is about 1.5” shorter than the Banshee. The elevator hinge line will be lengthened about the same amount. This makes the movements similar to the Fancherized Twister.

MikeyPratt · « **Reply #15 on:** December 24, 2021, 01:24:34 PM »

Quote from: John Tate on December 24, 2021, 11:52:13 AM

I am modifying a Sig Banshee to a Miss BJ from the Flying Models plan. The battery is a Thunder Power Prolite X TP 2200MAH battery. The motor is a Arrowwind 2815/09. I have use this combination on similar size models with no problems. The Miss BJ nose is about 1.5” shorter than the Banshee. The elevator hinge line will be lengthened about the same amount. This makes the movements similar to the Fancherized Twister.

Hi John,
I’ve always liked the looks of the Miss BJ and I’m sure the that combo works well for you, thank for showing that, it’s greatly appreciated. My plans for the Banshee are well on its way, the wing has been moved forward 1-5/8 forward (to get the math to work out), in addition the I extended the tail another 2” to get things to work out on paper and get the (tail moment volume) in the proper range. Right now the stab & elevators are in the 25% range of the wing area, I know this will have all the right numbers and should be a fantastic flyer if built straight and finished at a reasonable weight.

Later,
Mikey

MikeyPratt · « **Reply #16 on:** December 30, 2021, 11:54:15 AM »

The tricked out Banshee is coming along great, I can’t say what it resembles except some kind of a Formula 1 Goodyear racer but not a scale model. If you had to choose a design, I would call it Mid-wing Cosmic Wind or Toni.

For Example:
Wing,

Moved the out board tip rib inboard 1/2” and added a tip weight box.
Added half ribs to the wing structure to eliminate wing covering sag between the wing ribs. Also added 1/16” X 1” balsa from the leading edge, again, to promote a smoother airflow over the wing at the leading edge.

The bell crank is now a suspended unit, you can use a 3” or 4” bell crank (I recommended 4”) for slower controls with the added advantage of force to move the control surfaces.

1/32” vertical grain balsa at the trailing edges to build a warp resistant structure using the iron on film covering.

Fuselage:

This is where I done the most work, the outline of the fuselage has made it really easy to make it look anyway you want it to, I choose to make it look like Goodyear Racer but not any particular one, but a combination of the different parts of full scale designs I like, Shoestring, Cosmic Wind, Toni, Owl and so on, besides they look really Super “COOL”.

So I could save my kit for a future classic build, I built up the fuselage out of 3/16” balsa laminated together with epoxy glue and cut out the outline of the fuselage, wing opening, stab cut out, lighting holes. My plan is to sheet the fuselage sides with 1/16 balsa set a 45 degree angle to the trust-line, the the reversing the the 45 degree of the sheeting on the opposite side of the fuse, light but super strong. The fuselage doublers are now 1/16” plywood.

Stabilizer & Elevators,

I’ve increased the size of the Stabilizer and left the size of the elevators almost the same but the overall it’s 25% of the wing area (I’m considering building them up to save some weight) but we will see.

Later,
Mikey

Gary Mondry · « **Reply #17 on:** June 29, 2022, 11:04:59 AM »

Anything happening with the Banshee, Mikey? I have a kit on the shelf and was thinking this would be a great tutorial, then it went quiet.

Gary

MikeyPratt · « **Reply #18 on:** July 01, 2022, 11:21:50 AM »

Quote from: Gary Mondry on June 29, 2022, 11:04:59 AM

Anything happening with the Banshee, Mikey? I have a kit on the shelf and was thinking this would be a great tutorial, then it went quiet.

Gary

Hi Gary,
Yes I’m making plans as we speak. The fuse is turned into a full redo and will weigh a lot less than the stock Banshee the wing is moved forward 1.625”, fuse length increased 2” at the rear. Keep and eye on the build thread because I’ll post there when I get some of the drawings done are you going with electric or glow?

Later,
Mikey

Gary Mondry · « **Reply #19 on:** July 01, 2022, 11:33:12 AM »

I was thinking it would be a good first electric subject.

MikeyPratt · « **Reply #20 on:** July 02, 2022, 04:44:33 PM »

Quote from: Gary Mondry on July 01, 2022, 11:33:12 AM

I was thinking it would be a good first electric subject.

Gary,
I think it will be great first electric model, but if your fuselage is as heavy as mine is, please build it up to keep it much lighter. I’m trying to have the fuse drawing completed soon, but it does take a little time. Do you have the electric motor, battery, ESC, timer on hand? Also you will need some 3/16” balsa for a new stab & elevators and 3/32 balsa sheeting.

Mikey

The Fuselage on my Banshee weighed in 7-1/2 ounces (just the balsa fuse) and the two plywood doublers weighed in at 6 ounces with out the maple motor mounts. I’m replacing the doublers with 1/16” basswood and using a G-10 front mount from Bob Hunt. In addition the (maple motor mounts will not be used). I did Put 1/8” X 1/2” basswood and 1/4” X 3/8” balsa in place of the maple mounts.

Gary Mondry · « **Reply #21 on:** July 03, 2022, 10:47:49 AM »

Nope. I have the wood, but no electrics. I thought I’d go through the posts to identify a suitable, available setup.

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #22 on:** July 03, 2022, 12:11:21 PM »

Quote from: Gary Mondry on July 03, 2022, 10:47:49 AM

Nope. I have the wood, but no electrics. I thought I’d go through the posts to identify a suitable, available setup.

Funny thing about electric, they can be made to emulate a whole range of IC motors by manipulating the electronics. A good starting point for this size plane is a 28xx size motor, a 40-50 amp ESC and a simple timer like the Huben FM-9. Find someone who has a working system in a Banshee or Twister or one of the other similar sized stunt "trainers" and copy it or buy it off of someone upgrading. Anything below a 2826 size motor is probably not suitable for a full body PA ship so don't plan to use this system for anything greater than the Banshee. In fact, if you are new to electric you really NEED a cheap simple system to learn all of the "Don't Do That's" that will populate your day. Electric is far less forgiving of simple mistakes, and the battery has no idea how much you paid for the motor, timer and ESC. It will fry a $500 set with the same gusto as a $50 set. Learn on cheap stuff! One bit of advice - we use batteries ranging from 3s to 6s. Make sure the motor and ESC are both rated for the range you will use. A Banshee should use a mid size 4s, say 2200-2800mah. Get equipment that will function on 3s to 5s. Another thing - be careful if you stray from the mainline brands - the Chinese specifications are more of a goal than an actual specification but the stuff does work for the most part.

Ken

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #23 on:** July 03, 2022, 12:14:18 PM »

Quote from: Ken Culbertson on July 03, 2022, 12:11:21 PM

Funny thing about electric, they can be made to emulate a whole range of IC motors by manipulating the electronics. A good starting point for this size plane is a 28xx size motor, a 40-50 amp ESC and a simple timer like the Huben FM-9. Find someone who has a working system in a Banshee or Twister or one of the other similar sized stunt "trainers" and copy it or buy it off of someone upgrading. Anything below a 2826 size motor is probably not suitable for a full body PA ship so don't plan to use this system for anything greater than the Banshee. In fact, if you are new to electric you really NEED a cheap simple system to learn all of the "Don't Do That's" that will populate your day. Electric is far less forgiving of simple mistakes, and the battery, which is probably more powerful than the one that starts your car, has no idea how much you paid for the motor, timer and ESC. It will fry a $500 set with the same gusto as a $50 set. Learn on cheap stuff! One bit of advice - we use batteries ranging from 3s to 6s. Make sure the motor and ESC are both rated for the range you will use. A Banshee should use a mid size 4s, say 2200-2800mah. Get equipment that will function on 3s to 5s. Another thing - be careful if you stray from the mainline brands - the Chinese specifications are more of a goal than an actual specification but the stuff does work for the most part.

Ken

MikeyPratt · « **Reply #24 on:** July 24, 2022, 10:43:43 AM »

Quote from: Gary Mondry on July 03, 2022, 10:47:49 AM

Nope. I have the wood, but no electrics. I thought I’d go through the posts to identify a suitable, available setup.

Hi Gary,
Well a few comments on electric motors and supplies, do yourself a favor and go with the best equipment that you can afford. Stay away from the low dollar stuff, you can always upgrade for better equipment later as you get further into this, but for now this is what I recommend.

Electric Motor:
Cobra 2820/12g KV = 970

ESC:
Castle Phoenix 45

Battery:
Pro Lite V2 2600 mHa 4-cell 14.8 volts. THP26004SPL2

Sequencer / Timer:
Hubin V4 timer with adjustable pot for fine tuning motor RPM (I’m sure there is a newer version than mine).

Propeller:
APC 11”X 5.5 pitch (Tractor). This is a pretty good prop for all-around stunt flying and/or sport flying and is highly recommended. I’m not saying other props won’t work, but this prop work pretty darn good from the start.

Control lines Length:
.015 X 61’ from C to C Fancher hard point handle, lap time of 5.2 seconds per lap at 9200 RPM.

Note: I’ve used this exact set-up on my Force, profile flapped stunt model that’s bigger, I was extremely happy with it, very consistent and dead solid and reliable every time.

Later,
Mikey

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #25 on:** July 24, 2022, 11:58:20 AM »

Quote from: MikeyPratt on July 24, 2022, 10:43:43 AM

Hi Gary,
Well a few comments on electric motors and supplies

This is the EXACT combination that I used to get into electric all the way down to the handle. It was passed down to me by another flier that had used it for the same thing. Only exception, I had a Hubin FM-9 timer.

ken

MikeyPratt · « **Reply #26 on:** July 24, 2022, 03:16:43 PM »

Quote from: Ken Culbertson on July 24, 2022, 11:58:20 AM

This is the EXACT combination that I used to get into electric all the way down to the handle. It was passed down to me by another flier that had used it for the same thing. Only exception, I had a Hubin FM-9 timer.

ken

Hi Ken,
Does your FM-9 timer have the adjustable pot to fine tune theRPM? I don’t have a listing on the different timers they offer.

Later,
Mikey

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #27 on:** July 24, 2022, 03:39:59 PM »

Quote from: MikeyPratt on July 24, 2022, 03:16:43 PM

Hi Ken,
Does your FM-9 timer have the adjustable pot to fine tune the RPM? I don’t have a listing on the different timers they offer.

Later,
Mikey

I don't think so. It uses a control box, similar to a Jetti box to set the timer. It has been a while.

Ken

MikeyPratt · « **Reply #28 on:** July 28, 2022, 02:50:13 PM »

Quote from: John Tate on December 24, 2021, 11:52:13 AM

I am modifying a Sig Banshee to a Miss BJ from the Flying Models plan. The battery is a Thunder Power Prolite X TP 2200MAH battery. The motor is a Arrowwind 2815/09. I have use this combination on similar size models with no problems. The Miss BJ nose is about 1.5” shorter than the Banshee. The elevator hinge line will be lengthened about the same amount. This makes the movements similar to the Fancherized Twister.

Hi John,
I’m thinking of ordering a few of Thunder Power 2200 mAh 4 cell packsto try out on the Tricked out Banshee, would it be possible for you to give a weight of the packs. From what I’ve been able to find out the weight is about the same as 2600 4 cell pack. I’m not sure the weight savings will be worth it or not. Also, do you have a copy of the plans for the Ms BJ? It would be fun to comparing the two.

Thanks in Advance and Have a great day,
Mikey

Ken Culbertson · « **Reply #29 on:** July 28, 2022, 05:30:41 PM »

Quote from: MikeyPratt on July 28, 2022, 02:50:13 PM

Hi John,
I’m thinking of ordering a few of Thunder Power 2200 mAh 4 cell packsto try out on the Tricked out Banshee, would it be possible for you to give a weight of the packs. From what I’ve been able to find out the weight is about the same as 2600 4 cell pack. I’m not sure the weight savings will be worth it or not. Also, do you have a copy of the plans for the Ms BJ? It would be fun to comparing the two.

Thanks in Advance and Have a great day,
Mikey

If you are comparing the TB line, they don't make a 2600. The next size up is 2800. It is 234g vs the 2200 179. There are a bunch of high "C" value 2600's made for helicopters. Only one in the 2600 25c range I am familiar with is the Trunegy 2650. It is a 4s 30c (we really only need 25) 2 oz heaver than the TP 2800 but it is cheaper. I have used a set of them (4) a few years back and they performed well. If you are not going below 16% in calm air and about 20% in wind I would stick with the 2200. The 2800 will take you to around 30% but you will be adding 2 1/2 ounces to the nose. These batteries are not as fragile as some would lead you to believe. I ran a set of HRB 2200's that I got on sale for $16 each (they make a 2600 4s 30c as well) down to as low as 6% when the air was calm and they lasted 50 cycles before they started puffing. Just don't store them that low.

Ken

MikeyPratt · « **Reply #30 on:** July 28, 2022, 07:03:42 PM »

Quote from: Ken Culbertson on July 28, 2022, 05:30:41 PM

If you are comparing the TB line, they don't make a 2600. The next size up is 2800. It is 234g vs the 2200 179. There are a bunch of high "C" value 2600's made for helicopters. Only one in the 2600 25c range I am familiar with is the Trunegy 2650. It is a 4s 30c (we really only need 25) 2 oz heaver than the TP 2800 but it is cheaper. I have used a set of them (4) a few years back and they performed well. If you are not going below 16% in calm air and about 20% in wind I would stick with the 2200. The 2800 will take you to around 30% but you will be adding 2 1/2 ounces to the nose. These batteries are not as fragile as some would lead you to believe. I ran a set of HRB 2200's that I got on sale for $16 each (they make a 2600 4s 30c as well) down to as low as 6% when the air was calm and they lasted 50 cycles before they started puffing. Just don't store them that low.

Ken

Thanks Ken,
I have 2 TP 2600 packs that weigh about the same as my 2800 pack, what you are telling me is the TP 2200 pack is lighter at 179 grams sounds like good choice? I know that battery’s are changing very fast so you use what you get lol.

Later,
Mikey

MikeyPratt · « **Reply #31 on:** August 16, 2022, 05:26:27 PM »

Hi Guy’s,
For those people waiting on my plans and photos for the SS Banshee. I’m sorry but I’ve been hacked and it looks like I’ve lost a few of the files & photos that I was to Going to post on SH. I’ve taken the computer in to have it cleaned removing all the Bad Ware that “Sorry SOB” hacked it with. I don’t know how long this going to take but I’ll let you know when it is finished. I’ve never had a problem in all these years from hackers so keep you stuff safe.

Mikey Pratt