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Author Topic: Electric conversion for Sterling Ringmaster???  (Read 1913 times)

Offline John Cralley

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Electric conversion for Sterling Ringmaster???
« on: January 08, 2007, 01:06:35 PM »
I've got a couple of Ringmasters which I am thinking about converting Fox 35s to electric power. Has anyone on this forum actually done a Ringmaster conversion? If so I would be very interested in the details.

Thanks,  John
AMA 52183 (yep I've been around for a while)  ;D
« Last Edit: January 08, 2007, 02:42:00 PM by jccrall »
John Cralley
Scratch Built - Often Re-kitted!!!
AMA 52183
Central Illinois

Offline Dick Fowler

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Re: Electric conversion for Sterling Ringmaster???
« Reply #1 on: January 08, 2007, 08:29:29 PM »
JOHN! JOHN! JOHN!  An electric Ringmaster? Oh the sacrilege!!!!! **)
Dick Fowler AMA 144077
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Offline John Cralley

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Re: Electric conversion for Sterling Ringmaster???
« Reply #2 on: January 09, 2007, 09:41:29 AM »
Come on Dick is that your tongue I see in your cheek???

There is a city park two blocks away where I can probably fly ELECTRIC but NOT Glow.  #^ Plus I'm getting too old to squat starting my old Fox 35s. Right now there is no control line activity around here and some electric park UC flying just might stimulate some interest. Currently those Ringmasters are just hanging on my basement wall gathering dust.  >:(

John

John Cralley
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Central Illinois

Offline Mike Palko

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Re: Electric conversion for Sterling Ringmaster???
« Reply #3 on: January 09, 2007, 05:28:34 PM »
John,
   If the Ringmaster is scratch built with electric in mind one of the power systems mentioned in this post should work great. http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?topic=3342.0 Both power systems have flown airplanes in the 28-34oz AUW range with very good results. I don't know what the upper limit is, but I would imagine 38oz would not be a problem.

   If it is a direct glow to electric conversion it may take a little more power to get the desired performance. I would guess it would come to more than 40oz if it was a kit built glow airframe. The AXI 2820/10 would be a better choice.

   The AXI 2814/12 weighs 3.75oz and the AXI 2820/10 weighs 5.25oz. A Thunder Power 3S 4000mah weighs 9.25oz and you can add 1.25oz for the ESC/timer. From these weights you can estimate you AUW and pick a motor. 

   Good luck........

Offline Rudy Taube

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Re: Electric conversion for Sterling Ringmaster???
« Reply #4 on: January 09, 2007, 07:42:37 PM »
Hi John,

Good Luck with your Electric Ringmaster.

PS: I hope this post is now flame proof?
« Last Edit: January 10, 2007, 01:52:38 PM by Rudy Taube »
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Offline Mike Palko

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Re: Electric conversion for Sterling Ringmaster???
« Reply #5 on: January 09, 2007, 09:44:31 PM »
   I would be careful trying to use the same power system on two different sized airplanes. It's a great money saving suggestion, but it might turn out you saved nothing in the end. Imagine trying to needle back (detune) your .46 on a ringmaster.

   If you want to run the AXI 2826/10 on a 3S battery you will have to turn a large diameter prop with very high pitch at a slow rpm. For a more successful setup what should be done is use a motor with less winds (higher Kv) like the 2826/08. Changing motors (winds) defeats the purpose and your back where you started. At that point you might as well go down a motor size or two and save money and weight. Trying to use the same motor on 3S and 4S batteries is a tough job (at least in C/L). 

   If you are going to build two airplanes using the same power system, (say a Ringmaster and P-40 for arguments sake) the only savings would be on the purchase of one motor ($81.50 for the 2814/12 and $85.60 for the 2820/10). I don't think the money saved is worth the risk of having a poorly flying Ringmaster and good flying P-40 or vise versa. Why not spend the extra $80 and have two well setup power systems. You already bought the 3S and 4S battery packs, ESC and timer.

   Of course if you plan on buying both power systems, or would like to experiment, try the larger motor on the Ringmaster with the smaller battery and let us know how it works. It may be an unusual setup, but it may work OK. 

   Rudy, are you are talking about Will Moore being the first to use the AXI 2826/10? I may be wrong (correct me if I am), but I believe Walt Brownell was the first to use it. He flew this setup at the 2005 NATS.

Again good luck and let us know what you decide on and how it works.

Offline John Cralley

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Re: Electric conversion for Sterling Ringmaster???
« Reply #6 on: January 10, 2007, 07:38:56 PM »
Hi John,

Good Luck with your Electric Ringmaster.

PS: I hope this post is now flame proof?

Rudy, You may not go down in flames but I now have NONE of the information that you had posted before. Feel free to email me (jccrall@ilstu.edu) if folks are giving you a hard time on this forum. However, I suspect that I am not the only one around that has a Ringmaster (or equivalent) that they would like to try as an electric bird so if the info you have is useful I/we would like to have it here for all to share.

John
John Cralley
Scratch Built - Often Re-kitted!!!
AMA 52183
Central Illinois

Offline John Cralley

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Re: Electric conversion for Sterling Ringmaster???
« Reply #7 on: January 11, 2007, 02:10:27 PM »
OK. Here are suggested combinations which I have gleaned from this and other forums and which reputedly will electrofly my Ringmasters:

AXI 2820/10 and 3S 4200, Phx 45 ESC and APCE 10X6 or 115.5 - the jmp timer

AXI 2820/10 on 3S with an 11X5.5 or 10X6 - the jmp timer

AXI 2820/10  on  Thunder Power 3S 4000mah - the jmp timer

AXI 2820/10 3S 4000mah - the jmp timer

AXI 2814/12  If the weight comes in at 38 oz or less- the jmp timer

AXI 2826/10 maybe with a TP3S2P 11.1V 3,800 or 4,000 mAh- the jmp timer

HXT 42-40 1050kv 35A Brushless Outrunner Motor, Hextronic 30 Amp esc and a 10x5.5 APC-E prop at 24 Amps, 264 Watts and 9420 rpm. (for a weight of  around 34-36 oz) - the jmp timer

Though not always mentioned a suitable ESC is assumed and a props from the 9 x 5 up to 11 x 5.5 have been mentioned several times.

My Ringmasters are both scratch built from old Sterling plans and no attempt to save weight was made since they were intended to be flown for sport and as trainers for my son (long since grown and out of the nest). They have been “re-kitted” several times (learning to fly inverted tends to cause that) so they may not be the lightest. Both have been monocoated and may carry some extra oil under the covering. Still balancing inverted on one wing tip and 1 lb postal scale under the other (weight box end) gives 15+ oz so I would guess that they are in the 32 to 38 oz range.

I have ordered a HXT 42-40 1050kv 35A (cheap) and intend to give it a try. I’ll post how it works out.

Meanwhile, I would STILL like to hear from anyone as to their actual successful setup in a Ringmaster or those other Sterling Ringmaster clones.

Thanks for the information so far and happy landings.

John
John Cralley
Scratch Built - Often Re-kitted!!!
AMA 52183
Central Illinois

Offline John Cralley

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Re: Electric conversion for Sterling Ringmaster???
« Reply #8 on: May 09, 2007, 11:15:02 AM »
The conversion of one of my two ringmasters is finished. I made the maiden flight two days ago. The line tension seemed to be a little light and the plane tended to "hunt!" that is there was no solid groove where I could relax and hold a nice level flight. I made some adjustments and flew again yesterday when I made four flights. Before flying I installed four #8 washers between each of the inboard motor brackets and the motor mount to give some offset to the motor. I also moved the battery forward to match the leading edge of the wing with the front of the battery to move the CG forward. This seems to help with the line tension and the excess sensitivity (lack of a groove). I flew a few maneuvers (wingovers, inside and outside loops and a few horizontal figure eights) and I found out that the ESC safety cutoff for a stalled motor does indeed work! That was when I dropped the bottom of one of my inside loops too low and wiped out. I was a bit worried but there was no damage except for a bit of bend in the landing gear.

So, the conversion (using the parts that I listed in a previous post) works. I still want to try different props and I think I will replace the solid sheet tail feathers with stick built and covered parts. Also, I may try a 4S lipoly to replace the 3S battery.

I have posted  good bit of info on the http://www.brotherhoodofthering.info WEB site. You can check it out there. There are a number of photos of my conversion sequence in the Album section of this site. If you are a Ringmaster fan you might want to join the "Brotherhood."

Happy landings, John
« Last Edit: May 09, 2007, 11:33:19 AM by John Cralley »
John Cralley
Scratch Built - Often Re-kitted!!!
AMA 52183
Central Illinois


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