Here is my two cents. They will probably twist everything you expect to hear but this is my logic. Talk to Richard Oliver, Joe Gilbert, Matt Colan, who flew my model and see what they says about it. Everything I have implemented in my model build is proven. Actually in the last trim it was even better than when they flew my plane.
Nose/tail moments?
Does your CG usually end up further forward than a glo setup?
Whatever you use now for tail moments will work but for myself I found out that if I move the elevator back 1-1.5in you will be much better off.
Nose moments are about the same. The motors are lighter than the IC option but the batteries are heavier than the typical fuel tank so overall the weight distribution will migrate aft slightly.
Moment is mass timed distance from CG to center of mass. If you do the math you kind of break even. Keep the prop in the same position as you had it before and allow the battery to slide forward and back to finetune and change CG.
Is the stab elevated or is inline better and why?
It seems that both will work but the in line my be harder to achieve. Some swear at them some swear by them. But the staggered setup may be friendlier and I would argue that the tracking is better because the elevator is in clean air. The later one is my go to standard. By the way I have dihedral in my stab to push even further up in clean air.
Is a typical, say Geo Bolt wing, and good starting point or is the airfoil different, thinner?
I have a clean airframe on my bird. 18% at root 16% at tip. I could have gone even thinner than that with no adverse effect. The idea is that the electric powerplant is easy to control and the motor will not surge or runaway. I like it because the model penetrates very well in the wind plus the power consumption will go down too.
And does the line rake end up further aft?
Fly test and adjust. In IC configuration the CG migrates as the fuel is consumed, that is not the case in electric.
How is nose construction different from a typical beam mount system?
Just use 1/64 doublers and you are good. Maybe use another patch of 1/64 ply 1in wide where you mount the motor but other than that not needed. Allow air to flow around the electronic parts to keep them cool. I don't like rear mount because it stresses the motor more than a front mount and if that was not reason enough to front mount you have to add a prop adaptor which adds weight too.
Other things to consider are: A big motor means smaller battery smaller ESC better efficiency less wasted heat. Electric motors have lots of torque, are most efficient at 0 rpm and least efficient at max rpm. So therefore big diameter higher pitch than what you are used and lower rpm setup will benefit efficiency and corner (less gyro precession). As Voltage goes high Amps go low heat goes low.
For a 60 size I would consider 2B 12x6 12x7 13x6 13x7
https://innov8tivedesigns.com/badass-3520-560kv-brushless-motor.html on 6S or
https://innov8tivedesigns.com/badass-3520-650kv-brushless-motor.html on 5S
https://innov8tivedesigns.com/badass-3520-790kv-brushless-motor.html on4S